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« Reply #25 on: March 05, 2009, 01:08:30 PM »

yeah rotflmao If you get your numbers wrong.....I'll guarantee ya, Stat'll chew your arse. Tongue Out

LOL!!! bust gut laughing bust gut laughing bust gut laughing
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« Reply #26 on: March 05, 2009, 03:12:18 PM »

Odds being odds but there is a bit of a difference between a lottery and a slot.....

     In a convential lottery someone is guarenteed to win, and there is a fixed (factual) payback & hold percentage.
     Slot revenues are a statiscal projection based on 10mm samples and can widely fluctuate.

     A conventional lottery will have a fixed time period. ie Starts March 1 ends March 17.
     Slots give no guarentee that they will ever payout the big prize, their only obligation is to meet the statistlly stated payouts included in the PAR and certainly no timeline.

    People tend to buy "A" ticket for a particular draw, perhaps two, or even participate in ticket pooling if there is enough media hype and the prize is big enough they then wait for the draw to be made.
    A slot is really a mini-lottery each time the hanlde is piulled. Assuming one plays in every weekly lottery at $1.00/week you are out $52/year. A slot could gobble this up in min, through its series of mini-lotteries.

   

                                                                                                       
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« Reply #27 on: March 05, 2009, 04:23:11 PM »

Odds being odds but there is a bit of a difference between a lottery and a slot.....

     In a convential lottery someone is guarenteed to win, and there is a fixed (factual) payback & hold percentage.
     Slot revenues are a statiscal projection based on 10mm samples and can widely fluctuate.

     A conventional lottery will have a fixed time period. ie Starts March 1 ends March 17.
     Slots give no guarentee that they will ever payout the big prize, their only obligation is to meet the statistlly stated payouts included in the PAR and certainly no timeline.

    People tend to buy "A" ticket for a particular draw, perhaps two, or even participate in ticket pooling if there is enough media hype and the prize is big enough they then wait for the draw to be made.
    A slot is really a mini-lottery each time the hanlde is piulled. Assuming one plays in every weekly lottery at $1.00/week you are out $52/year. A slot could gobble this up in min, through its series of mini-lotteries.

   

                                                                                                       

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« Reply #28 on: March 05, 2009, 04:29:02 PM »

I prefer to think of the state lottery as voulntary taxation.... with the proceeds going to a chartiable cause.
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« Reply #29 on: March 05, 2009, 09:41:54 PM »

Odds being odds but there is a bit of a difference between a lottery and a slot.....

     In a convential lottery someone is guarenteed to win, and there is a fixed (factual) payback & hold percentage.
     Slot revenues are a statiscal projection based on 10mm samples and can widely fluctuate.

     A conventional lottery will have a fixed time period. ie Starts March 1 ends March 17.
     Slots give no guarentee that they will ever payout the big prize, their only obligation is to meet the statistlly stated payouts included in the PAR and certainly no timeline.

    People tend to buy "A" ticket for a particular draw, perhaps two, or even participate in ticket pooling if there is enough media hype and the prize is big enough they then wait for the draw to be made.
    A slot is really a mini-lottery each time the hanlde is piulled. Assuming one plays in every weekly lottery at $1.00/week you are out $52/year. A slot could gobble this up in min, through its series of mini-lotteries.

Good points, although most avid players play more than $1 per week and often play for much more when a lotto prize gets large. The prizes in a lottery are also parimutuel payouts, so the odds don't fluctuate from week to week, but the payouts do. They used to say that lotto players who played at least some numbers above 31 had a better chance of winning more money because so many people played their birthdays and such. Even though the odds of any number hitting were the same, the idea was to win in a week where fewer people than average won. I have no idea if that still holds, since players have had 20 years to get more savvy.


Another big difference between slots and scratch off games is that the largest prize may have already been claimed when you buy your ticket, so in many cases you actually may have no chance at all of winning the top prize. Most people don't check the list of winners or take that into account when buying their scratch-offs.

In the olden days of the 80's and early 90's in California, the ticket manufacturers' processes  and the lottery's computers weren't advanced enough to track all of the smaller winning tickets across the entire state, so what they did was to put an exact number of each small prize in each block of 500 tickets. There was an absolute guarantee of x dollars in prizes ranging from free tickets up to $10 or $25 or $50 (I've forgotten the highest value).

The retailer would stamp their store name, address, and ID on the back of each ticket, and all small wins had to be claimed at the store from which the ticket was purchased. This was because the lottery would actually sell the block of 500 ticket to the retailer with those prize amounts already deducted from the price, and an additional 6 percent for the retailer's profit. So the ticket generation was not random at all. The larger prizes would be more "randomly" peppered in these bundles and paid by the lottery, but there was still a record in advance of the serial number of every large winning ticket before they left the printers.

Today they have gotten sophisticated enough to distribute the smaller prizes more randomly and still track all of the serial numbers, so now a player can cash any ticket at any retailer.


I prefer to think of the state lottery as voulntary taxation.... with the proceeds going to a chartiable cause.

The only problem is that it is usually a tax on the poor because the poor see it as a way out of their poverty, while people with more money just play to have some fun and the hope of a win. The poor also tend to be less educated, and that has also proven to be a factor in playing the lottery more heavily. Voluntary or not, the state knows these facts, though they will never admit to it. I'll leave my personal feelings about this for the rant and rave section at some other time.
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« Reply #30 on: March 05, 2009, 10:02:19 PM »

The way I have it figured is that if I blow all my income on lottery tickets and still don't win I can always count on the Mayan Calendar to run out in 2012 followed by an apocalyptic event so it won't really matter.  Help
If that fails to materialzie I can always sue the Mayans for breach of contract....  I will cash in somehow....  Duh!  Anyone got a forwarding address for the Mayans ? they seem to have moved on from their last known address.....  Scratch Head
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« Reply #31 on: March 05, 2009, 10:48:14 PM »

The way I have it figured is that if I blow all my income on lottery tickets and still don't win I can always count on the Mayan Calendar to run out in 2012 followed by an apocalyptic event so it won't really matter.  Help
If that fails to materialzie I can always sue the Mayans for breach of contract....  I will cash in somehow....  Duh!  Anyone got a forwarding address for the Mayans ? they seem to have moved on from their last known address.....  Scratch Head


Good one!! That made my night!! bust gut laughing
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« Reply #32 on: March 06, 2009, 12:02:24 AM »

The way I have it figured is that if I blow all my income on lottery tickets and still don't win I can always count on the Mayan Calendar to run out in 2012 followed by an apocalyptic event so it won't really matter.  Help
If that fails to materialzie I can always sue the Mayans for breach of contract....  I will cash in somehow....  Duh!  Anyone got a forwarding address for the Mayans ? they seem to have moved on from their last known address.....  Scratch Head


I think that they're just down that flight of rather steep stairs over there...  arrow
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« Reply #33 on: March 08, 2009, 09:21:45 PM »

If you change over to a five line, five coin machine game kit, from a one line, three coin game, do you have to change the Game PROM as well as the Reel PROM?
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« Reply #34 on: March 08, 2009, 10:03:00 PM »

I am not sure if a S+ can handle a multiple coin multiple line game.
I am saying this because There is no way to select the number of coins per line with the current button set on a S+.

With the standard button set on a S+ the only way to select less than max bet would be to press the bet one until you had the number of coins per line that you wanted to bet.
1 coin per line 5 times, 2 per line 10 times, 3 per line 15 times, 4 per line 20 times, 5 per line 25 times or max bet.

The Vision and S2000 reel slot need a different button deck, mulit-denomination and other hardware to do so.
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« Reply #35 on: March 08, 2009, 10:15:58 PM »

Foster,
I think he means a 5C kit with a 5 line reel glass.
It's not needed to change SP (game) chips unless the reel chip and kit needs special "nudges" or "re-spins"...
Here's a way to check...Remove the reel (SS) chip from the socket and put in your new one.
Install the MPU back into the motherboard and turn the power on...when you turn the power on, you may get one of these codes listed below...follow "Clearing The Tilt" instructions to a "T" and you should be back in business.
If you get error code "68" , then you'll need the correct data (SP or Game chip) chip for your reel (SS) chip.

Tilt Code          Malfunction                                              Clearing the Tilt
61               Bad CMOS RAM             Open door and press self test button for 2 to 3 seconds.  See 61_1.
 
61_1           Game data reset            Close door and turn jackpot reset key.
 
61_2           Recoverable CMOS error  Open door and press self test button for 2 to 3 seconds.  See 61_1.
 
61_3           Hardware malfunction      Open door and press self test button for 2 to 3 seconds.  See 61_1.
 
62_0           Bad game PROM             Replace game PROM.
 
62_1           Bad data PROM              Replace data PROM.
 
65_0           Bad EEPROM device        Replace EEPROM with a blank one.
 
65_1           Bad EEPROM data           Open door and press self test button for 1 to 2 seconds.
 
65_2           Game type mismatch       Open door and press self test button for 1 to 2 seconds.
 
65_3           Game options & meters not in most current format    Recover options & meters by using correct set chip.
OR
Turn jackpot reset key to continue power-up procedure.  Game will be upgraded to most current format.  See 65_1 or 65_2.
 
66              Game PROM changed       Open door.  Turn machine off, then on.
 
67              Data PROM changed         Open door.  Turn machine off, then on.
 
68              Non-compatible data PROM   Install correct data PROM.

These codes I've listed above can be found in it's entirety on the NLG.com home page in Rick's FAQ Files.
 

 
« Last Edit: March 08, 2009, 10:30:51 PM by stayouttadabunker » Logged
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« Reply #36 on: March 08, 2009, 10:26:19 PM »

Sorry I was thinking 5 line with 5 coin per line.
It has been a long weekend for me.
A server at work is being a pain.

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« Reply #37 on: March 08, 2009, 10:26:59 PM »

Foster,
I think he means a 5C kit with a 5 line reel glass.
It's not needed to change SP (game) chips unless the reel chip and kit needs special "nudges" or "re-spins"...
Here's a way to check...Remove the reel (SS) chip from the socket and put in your new one.
Install the MPU back into the motherboard and turn the power on...when you turn the power on, you may get one of these codes listed below...follow "Clearing the Tilt" instructions to a "T" and you should be back in business.
If you get error code "68-1" , then you'll need the correct data (SP or Game chip) chip for your reel (SS) chip.
Tilt Code      Malfunction         Clearing the Tilt
61               Bad CMOS RAM             Open door and press self test button for 2 to 3 seconds.  See 61_1.
 
61_1           Game data reset            Close door and turn jackpot reset key.
 
61_2           Recoverable CMOS error  Open door and press self test button for 2 to 3 seconds.  See 61_1.
 
61_3           Hardware malfunction      Open door and press self test button for 2 to 3 seconds.  See 61_1.
 
62_0           Bad game PROM             Replace game PROM.
 
62_1           Bad data PROM              Replace data PROM.
 
65_0           Bad EEPROM device        Replace EEPROM with a blank one.
 
65_1           Bad EEPROM data           Open door and press self test button for 1 to 2 seconds.
 
65_2           Game type mismatch       Open door and press self test button for 1 to 2 seconds.
 
65_3           Game options & meters not in most current format    Recover options & meters by using correct set chip.
OR
Turn jackpot reset key to continue power-up procedure.  Game will be upgraded to most current format.  See 65_1 or 65_2.
 
66              Game PROM changed       Open door.  Turn machine off, then on.
 
67              Data PROM changed         Open door.  Turn machine off, then on.
 
68              Non-compatible data PROM   Install correct data PROM.

These codes I've listed above can be found in it's entirety on the NLG.com home page in Rick's FAQ Files.
 

 


Yes, that's the answer I was looking for. I now see what the game PROM is used for. I didn't quite understand it's function, but for a game change to a 5 line glass/5C wouldn't matter as long as it doesn't need any special nudges etc.. We have a 3C, 1 line red/white/blue and my Dad likes any 5C, 5 line reel glass machine. If only a reel PROM change is needed with a kit to do this, that's cool!!

Also, is that what the "TYPE 0" is referring to?
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« Reply #38 on: March 08, 2009, 11:04:21 PM »

Type 0 is a normal type game no nudge, haywire, mystery reel, spin til you win, etc.
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« Reply #39 on: March 08, 2009, 11:14:21 PM »

Check out this link on "Game Types"...your chip is compatible for many different kits really>>

http://www.newlifegames.net/spset/gametypes.htm

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« Reply #40 on: March 09, 2009, 12:35:00 AM »

For what it's worth, if you have to change the SP (game) chip it's no different than changing the SS (reel) chip and no big deal to do.   propeller
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« Reply #41 on: March 09, 2009, 01:03:58 AM »

I was reading about that. The only concern of mine is that I have a BV on my slot and it looks like you have to re-program it or something.
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« Reply #42 on: March 09, 2009, 02:09:07 AM »

Yes ,
If you get the "65-2" code (because it's an incompatiable non-matching SP chip), then you'd have to change the SP chip....and when you do that, 9 times outta 10, you will also have to use a SET chip to re-enable your DBV. It's not a problem though, our vendors on the home page will be more than happy to sell you the correct SET chip for your games....the only question now lies is this...what chips are you using, and what chips would you like to use? That answer alone will help our vendors get you the proper chips you need to get it all running smoothly!
« Last Edit: March 09, 2009, 12:03:51 PM by stayouttadabunker » Logged
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« Reply #43 on: March 09, 2009, 02:48:04 AM »

I was reading about that. The only concern of mine is that I have a BV on my slot and it looks like you have to re-program it or something.


If you're buying stuff from a vendor, get them to add a RAM clear and a bill validator SET chip with your purchase.  Nothing to re-enabling the validator if you need to -- directions can be found here.
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« Reply #44 on: March 09, 2009, 02:59:29 AM »

Yes ,
If you get the "68" code (because it's an incompatible nomination SP chip), then you'd have to change the SP chip....and when you do that, 9 times outta 10, you will also have to use a SET chip to re-enable your DBV. It's not a problem though, our vendors on the home page will be more than happy to sell you the correct SET chip for your games....the only question now lies is this...what chips are you using, and what chips would you like to use? That answer alone will help our vendors get you the proper chips you need to get it all running smoothly!

Ok, here's what I was hoping to do, but I can't find the DA** thing!! I currently have a triple red/white/blue machine S+ Round Top, 3 Coin 1 Line. I am looking to get a 5 Coin 5 Reel Line game kit, preferably Cat's n Dog's. From what I have read and correct me if I am wrong, doing this would only require the reel PROM chip to be changed correct? However, everybody has one or the other of this kit, but no one has the complete kit for a round top. If all else fails, I was going to get a Triple Cherry kit, 3 Coin 1 Line, which I know only requires the reel PROM to be changed.
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« Reply #45 on: March 09, 2009, 03:54:40 AM »

5 Aces, it sounds like you're on the right track.

Just to note, you really should never see a 68 code. It means that there is something wrong with the chip (damaged, etc.). Usually you will see either the 66, 67 or one of the 61 or 62 codes. If you see a 65-2 code, it means that the game chip isn't the right one for your game (a type 0 game chip with a nudge game, etc.)

Also, buying game kits is like buying slot machines: you can't buy just one. I strongly suggest that you get a SET026 (or SET015) along with an IVC103 clear. If you even ever intend on installing a progressive in your machine, you might also want to pick up a SET090 as well.

Most folks get the SET015, but the SET026 supports penny denominations in SP (Game) chips that allow it (not all do). Setting your dbv to a penny allows you to have tons of credits with little cash. Other than that, the two chips are basically the same for the home user.
« Last Edit: March 09, 2009, 03:07:44 PM by StatFreak » Logged

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« Reply #46 on: March 09, 2009, 03:57:49 AM »

5 Aces, it sounds like you're on the right track.

Just to note, you really should never see a 68 error. It means that there is something wrong with the chip. Usually you will see the 67 error when you change chips.

Also, buying game kits is like buying slot machines: you can't buy just one. I strongly suggest that you get a SET026 (or SET015) along with an IVC103 clear. If you even intend on installing a progressive in your machine, you might also want to pick up a SET090 as well.

Most folks get the SET015, but the SET026 supports penny denominations in SP (Game) chips that allow it (not all do). Setting your dbv to a penny allows you to have tons of credits with little cash. Other than that, the two chips are basically the same for the home user.

Thanks for the info! I see what everybody means when they talk about having tons of kits! I can't wait until the one I want becomes available....
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« Reply #47 on: March 09, 2009, 12:08:24 PM »

Yes 5Aces,
Statfreak saw my error....I meant to say that if you see "65-2" that means the chips are not made for each other.
"68" means the chip is " censored"!
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« Reply #48 on: March 09, 2009, 12:38:46 PM »

The game chip generally does not need to be changed unless you are changing the "TYPE" of game that you are running.
A 1271 game chip would be able to run a 1 coin, 2 coin, 3 coin and 5 coin game.
Now if you are changing to a game that is of the Haywire or Spin to you Win Variety then the game chip has to be changed.
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« Reply #49 on: March 09, 2009, 10:31:05 PM »

IMO

68 = Game Prom does not match your Reel Prom .. need to have the correct game TYPE eprom installed.

62 = Game Prom is fried.
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