'87 IGT Double Jackpot 3 Reel

[CVslots]

You could have hit it Jim! He said his tag had M/S?

[mvco]

Now if it's an m+, it must be one of the last ones made.  

On my S model games, earliest build date is 1-1986.  On my latest built, the build date is 12-1988.  So you would think they would not be building M games that late, but who knows.

I wonder if this was an S converted to S-Plus.  the whole thing about the board being on the left, without the three connectors, and having the black knob screams S-Plus.  Man, I really want to see inside this thing!  

[ProFour7]

Photos of my Double Jackpot built in '87

[ProFour7]

More Photos

[ProFour7]

More yet.

[ProFour7]

Again

[ProFour7]

And yet again

[ProFour7]

And two more

[ProFour7]

Following the directions for the S+ Clear, after inserting the chip and repowering the machine, I get no activity on the numbers as expected. (After pushing the test button)

[ProFour7]

Let me know what better photos you may require.

Thanks for all of your help thus far.

[ProFour7]

My call was originally from work (Parker Hannifin). My cell is 601-374-1174

[knagl]

Following the directions for the S+ Clear, after inserting the chip and repowering the machine, I get no activity on the numbers as expected. (After pushing the test button)

Is there anything on the displays when the clear chip is in?

It sure looks like you have an early S+.  Your MPU board is exactly the same as the one that's in one of my S+ machines -- I just took this picture a couple of minutes ago:



The only obvious difference I see is the empty socket on your board near the middle, left side (U17 I think?  I already put my board back in my machine).  I don't know what that chip is for, though, and if it's vital or not.

Anyone have any opinions or ideas?

If there's nothing on the displays with the clear chip, for grins why don't you try moving that E15/E16 jumper over to the other position (lift straight up on the jumper, then slide it over the two pins on the right instead of the two pins on the left it's currently on), then put the board back in and power on.  It probably won't make a difference, but try it just in case -- it won't damage anything.  Be sure to return the jumper to its original position when you're finished.

Also, is there anyone near Jackson, Mississippi who might be able to help this member in person?

[mvco]

Wow, it is an S-Plus.  I wonder why they were still building S games over a year after this one was built.  The S-plus platform was so awesome, I would think they would have only been producing those, rather than still offering S model games. 

The dark brown cabinet interior is exactly what all my S games look like, and my earliest S-Plus in 1989 of course has the gray inside color.  Interesting stuff.

[ProFour7]

I wondered about the empty chip (U18) space as well. Not sure what that could be controlling. I did try moving the jumper and got no change in response. I get no display whatsoever, of the numbers read-out. They are blank.
Anyone know where I can get a chip that belongs in the U18 position? (Or if I even need it?)

[stayouttadabunker]

You don't need the U18 chip in there.
I have run many S+ games on various MPU boards that have had that socket unoccupied.

In messing around with MPU boards, I physically installed a similar "butterfly" chip in there but it did nothing.
I came away from the testing believing that it may ONLY be needed for the rare 5-reeler S+ games.

Personally, I have never seen whether or not that  U18 chip location was occupied on a 5-reeler MPU board
because I've never seen a picture of a working one.
So, I'm not sure if it's needed for a 5-reeler or not
but I DO know for sure that it's NOT needed for 3-reel games.

See if you can take a moment to answer Knagl's questions in Reply#36.
I think he may be onto something that may help you here about the displays and jumpers?

[proten]

It is a S+ so has anyone checked the power connector on the mother board?
It could be the same problem the S+ have with the power plug on the mother
board burning up and losing connection.

[knagl]

See if you can take a moment to answer Knagl's questions in Reply#36.
I think he may be onto something that may help you here about the displays and jumpers?

He did:

I did try moving the jumper and got no change in response. I get no display whatsoever, of the numbers read-out. They are blank.

It is a S+ so has anyone checked the power connector on the mother board?
It could be the same problem the S+ have with the power plug on the mother board burning up and losing connection.

...except that he has bookkeeping displays when he installs the original game chip back in the machine.

This is really odd all around.  :-/

[ProFour7]

Does anyone know what voltages should be read across the terminals of the main, large transformer at the back of the machine? I am reading 120 volts across the right hand terminals, but do not see any particular readings across the terminals to the left (terminals 3,4,5,6,7 & 8). Also, I am curious about the transformer on the main board, as well.

[Jim]

If you want to get your machine fixed don't get off the path to getting it fixed!!!.   why do you want the information on the transformer???   lets look at what we know about your machine,

all the fluorescent lamps are working,  you said the reels did spin,  we did get information on the display, the reels button did light up, the denom lamp is on,  the candle is flashing. so what does all this tell us?

120 vac getting into the machine,(one fuse is good), reels did spin ( +vb and the voltages to control the reels are good), info on the display (+vb runs this display) (another fuse good) the denom lamp on (7vac run these lamps), the candle is flashing (7vac run these),(another fuse good)  this machine only puts out so many different voltages and noted from all these items all the voltages are good.  you can confirm these by undoing one fuse at a time and see what function does not work. The only other voltage we have not talked about is the main +5vdc that runs the logic on the board, and because the reels spun and locked up and gave info to the display tells me the cpu is operating, so the +5vdc has to be good. 

Did you ever get out of the bookkeeping mode???    YOU HAVE TO GET OUT OF THIS MODE BEFORE YOU CAN DO ANYTHING.   AND IF YOU ARE IN THE BOOKKEEPING MODE, that tells me that the optics are good, because the only way to get into the booking mode is to have the door closed and latched and then turning the reset key.

hope this helps

Jim

[ProFour7]

Jim,

Thanks for this feedback. this is the first I have heard about which voltages control what. I did, in fact, check all of the fuses initially, and they were all good.
Being a newbe to this, how do I get the machine out of bookkeeping mode? I hear that the door optics are VERY sensitive. The bottom of the candle light flashes fast, indicating that the door is not closed, yet it is. I have verified the optics alignment and it is good. I have, during other tests, been able to get the bottom candle to go out, but it only returns with the next test. What process do I need to do, to get out of bookkeeping mode? I am all ears!
The only reason I was seeking the voltage values from the transformer, is to verify that it is putting out. If it is not producing the voltages, the fuses could show good. I cannot get the coin comparator (at all) or the door optics to function consistently.

Thanks,

Bill 

[Jim]

read reply #22.

what tests are you preforming? and how are you accessing the tests?



Jim

[ProFour7]

Jim,
Thanks for your patience with me on this. When I power up, I get a "61", and pushing the "self-test" button does nothing. I turn the re-set key, and the numbers start at 01 and go all the way to 72 (skipping a few along the way) and never gets to "there are two programs, the first one goes through 7 sets of numbers, after the last number (7) the next turn of the key will return you to the game mode. the second program will go through 13 sets, then the next set will return you to the game mode."  I can send the entire read-out for each number if it will help.
 

[Jim]

Ok. then you can get out of the bookkeeping mode.  get out of that mode and don't go back there for ant reason, none of that information applies to homeowners. And I am assuming that the reason you can get into the bookkeeping mode is because the door is closed and latched.(meaning the door optics have to be operating for this to occur) this resolves that issue of the door optics.

so now!!!  in the game mode you get a 61 and it never changes:   you are in a 61 loop, the only way to get out of this loop is to clear the machine, using a clear chip. If you have a know good clear chip and it will not clear, then you may have a motherboard problem. there is a small chip on the mother board that goes bad and will not allow you to clear  the machine.

My hunch is you have a bad motherboard.


Hope this helps

Jim

[knagl]

When I power up, I get a "61", and pushing the "self-test" button does nothing.

In your very first post you said you were getting a 61-1, now you're saying that the 61 never changes. Has the behavior of your machine changed?

I'm not trying to be snarky, but since we're not there to see what's happening, you need to really spell out what the machine is or isn't doing.

That said, have you ever been able to change the 61 to a 61-1 by pressing the self test button?

[ProFour7]

It appears that my motherboard is not functioning correctly. Anyone know where I can send it to get it checked out? I was able to get to the 61-1 in the beginning, but now it only goes to 61.