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| | |-+  Did I fry something on my Bally 6000?
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Author Topic: Did I fry something on my Bally 6000?  (Read 25100 times)
dinot
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« Reply #25 on: October 18, 2008, 10:30:46 AM »


Doing a ram clear can clear this(88ff) error code.




For a Complete, Full, or Partial SafeRAM™ Clear, turn
the machine power OFF. Unlock and remove the MPU
assembly. If SafeRAM™ Clear EPROMs are required,
remove the Main EPROMs from U28 and U43 and replace them with the corresponding clear chips.
If EPROMs are not required, turn DIP DS1 sw8 ON.( I change the position(from off to on or from on to off) and return it to the previous position, different mains have different positions.)
After ensuring that the MPU assembly is firmly seated into the backplane board, turn the machine power ON
while depressing the appropriate buttons.

Complete - Press and hold the PSEUDO COIN and TEST buttons, then switch power ON. When the message CH
C displays in WIN PAID, release the PSEUDO COIN and TEST
buttons. The CH C message is followed by CL C

If an error was detected during SafeRAM™ Clear as
designated by E C, E F, E P in WIN PAID, repeat the
operation.
Upon a successful SafeRAM™ Clear, the button and
tower lamps flash. Switch power OFF and replace the
SafeRAM™ Clear EPROMs with the Mains, or turn DS1
sw8 OFF. Replace the MPU assembly and switch machine
power ON. The machine will enter a Reel Calibration
Procedure whereby the home position is recorded in
SafeRAM™. For tilt-free operation, it is important that the procedure completes without interruption

Good luck,
Wayne


I am not sure how to determine whether I need the clear chips or not. On all of my games I have used the switch 8 method and I got what looks like a successful clear. With CL C displaying in the win paid. Now the board that is showing the 88FF error won't clear.
I had another thought. I've not ever really worked on a board with a battery on it before. After I soldered in the new battery I was checking continuity from the battery's axial leads to the next solder pad on the board. If my meter moved a bit and touched something else could this have caused a short?

So it looks like I swapped the personality and the saferam eproms between boards. (In hindsight I guess that I should have only moved U18 and U20)

Thanks
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dinot
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« Reply #26 on: October 18, 2008, 11:25:08 AM »

This morning for the heck of it I tried another complete saferam clear on winning for dummies (this board worked originally but later got an 831F that I could not clear after I had swapped the personality and saferam roms). It then worked. The machine plays fine. Weird, as I had done about 4 complete clears last night with no luck. So I wanted to see what would happen with Wild Times which last night booted up with an 88FF (catastrophic board error). This morning it doesn't come up at all. No error codes, just nothing. I tried to do a complete clear on it and nothing happens. Meaning, nothing shows up on the win paid display. The only thing that comes up is 00 on the credit. I notice that what looks like a breaker is tripped next to the power button. (Bottom right one) I reset it and reboot, and it trips again. I pull the board out, take out U18 and U20 and put the board back in. Now the breaker doesn't trip. So the presence of the U18 and U20 chips makes the machine trip a breaker. So I am feeling a little more bold this morning. So I swap the U18 and U20 between WFD and WT again.

I put the Winning for Dummies board with the Wild Times U18 and U20 into Wild Times to perform a complete clear. The Wild Times now comes up fine!!!
I put the original Wild Times board with the WFD U18 and U20 into WFD and the WFD machine trips the breaker that was tripping on WT.

So with my powers of deductive reasoning, it looks like the original board from Wild Times is having issues. Possibly the main eproms and saferam chips as well. Ok...I am feeling better now.

Also....I almost passed out this morning because I wanted to get the Beach Party (whose battery was also replaced) ready to sell to my coworker. Originally the dealer I bought these from had used a little PCB plugged into the back board which is a hopper simulator. He also had another small board plugged in to bypass the coin mechs and it plugs into the change button. This makes it set for free play. You hit the change button and it registers a coin in. (Doing it like this till my coworker decides how to stock the machine) I do this swap and then the machine comes up with a 31 error. Hopper optics. I reseat everything and it then comes up with an 88FF error. I almost passed out. I then yank everything out (freeplay stuff) and perform a complete clear and it came back fine. This makes me want to never touch the inside of my machines again. I've power it on/off many times and it looks good.
This happened before I got the Winning For Dummies working so I thought I lost all my machines.

« Last Edit: October 18, 2008, 12:12:22 PM by dinot » Logged

dinot
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« Reply #27 on: October 23, 2008, 10:55:33 PM »

Thanks for the help everyone. I got a replacement board, moved all the chips over and everything works fine.

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PWRSTROKE
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« Reply #28 on: October 23, 2008, 11:00:47 PM »

Sounds like you are like me and many of us here-"Refuse to Loose"!.  Great job and troubleshooting. Sure someone else can use that info as well  yes
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a69mopar
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« Reply #29 on: October 24, 2008, 11:20:23 PM »

Thanks for letting us know, glad to hear it's up and running,
Wayne
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         www.GTASLOTS.com      647-402-1977              BALLY S6000 GALLERY
Slotmaster
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« Reply #30 on: October 25, 2008, 01:20:55 PM »

dinot if you can make it to the command center we have 5 or 6 6000 in storage dirt cheap if you need parts  Odie


Joeylc
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Right now Bally 6000's are almost giveaway door prizes.   So many of them came out of the casino this year plus last that it flooded the market....

They are actually good buys if you can get past the bally name and brand. 

The 4 reel game titles are not that bad at all.   

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dinot
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« Reply #31 on: October 26, 2008, 02:22:59 PM »

Just curious as to what makes a Bally 6000 less desirable?
I am a slot newbie and I honestly don't know. I have 2 Bally 6000's (Winning for Dummies and Wild Times) and I just sold a Bally 6000 (Beach Party). I also have an IGT S+ (Triple Diamond Deluxe). From what I see, I like the Bally 6000's a lot more than my S+ and/or other S+ machines that I've played. I do have some complaints about the Bally's though. My biggest being that they seem to have a much more advanced sound system than the S+ but they don't really seem to take advantage of it. My Wild Times does a little when you go into bonus mode. The Beach Party didn't do anything in bonus mode and it made it a little boring. The Winning For Dummies also does nothing special with sounds.
Also, are the Bally 6000's still the current model for Bally?

I have started to look into the S2000 machines. And from the little that I've seen, they have much more in the sound arena. I'd definately dump my S+ for an S2000.  I especially like Munsters (going by youtube videos). Do I even want to know what a Munsters would cost?

Thanks
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paul
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« Reply #32 on: October 26, 2008, 02:57:15 PM »

Ballys are a good machine  the main problem is batterys they are easier to clear for a home machine Bally has newer machines
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