New Life Games Tech Forums

Hi!  I'm a 28yo female and not at all familiar with slot machines besides the fact that I've been wanting one since I first played at a casino.  Last night my uncle gave me a Triple Play machine he got out of a casino they were shutting down.  He got 5 all together and he's guessing they gave it to him cause it didn't work but he's not sure.  Anyways, I thought I'd just plug it in and be able to play it right then and there but when it came to my house, it's not a plug in sticking out of the back.  It's all these wires that have been cut.  Anyways, my question is since I don't have keys or anything, do ya'll think it would be worth it to hire a locksmith to come and make a key and then see if an electrician can put a regular plug and then see if it works/or if he can fix it?
Sorry if I sound dingy but I really know nothing about this stuff and you guys seem like experts!
Thanks in advance :)
Emelie

P.S. I'm gonna try adding pics of the machine and the wires

Okay...wow! You do need help!
First of all...try filling out your profile with a little more info ...especially your location.
Hopefully one of our members lives nearby ya so they can help you get that lock apart!!! 
You HAVE to get inside the machine.  :71-
Unfortunately that particular model did not have a belly door that pops open.

The power cord will be the largest, roundest black cord coming out of  the hole on the back, bottom of the machine.  :209-
It's the same power cords as heavy duty cords that look like computer desktop cords but a little heavier gauged wire inside.

Electricians will not know or may not know anything about these machines.  :5-
They deal with house wiring really.
You have an S+ that was made in the late 80's or early 90's.
It was upgraded with a "1995 Sevens Systems" reel glass bill validator but it's a bill acceptor unit
that, I'm afraid,  is not supported by any companies anymore.
You may need to get the coin unit working in order to play it.
I wish we knew what is inside of your machine.
We will have to wait until you get the lock opened.

A local NLG member will be able to help you best with your machine!  :89-
Would you uncle have any keys that might fit?
Not knowing if you live in a legal state for slot ownership or not -
I don't know if it would be a good thing to call a locksmith just yet.

Legal states are OH, TX,MN,AZ,WV,VA,ME,RI,UT,AR,AK,KY,NM
Illegal states are SC,CT,AL,HI,IN,NE,TN,WI
Restricted states are the rest not mentioned above (age restriction mostly)

LA and CA have the worst restrictions/most enforcement

The rest I just don't know.

Bunker, are you sure that's not an "S"?

I don't think "S" machines supported dollar bill validators, but I could be mistaken.  I suspect it's a very early S+ as well.

I agree with what has been posted -- you need to get into the machine to have any hope of getting it working.  On the plus side, you won't need an electrician -- you'll likely just need a standard computer-style power cable to plug between the wall and the machine's power supply.  Once you get access to the inside of the machine, be sure to check EVERYWHERE for stray coins, screws, nuts, etc. before you apply power.  If there are stray metal bits floating around in there, they could cause shorts in the circuit boards if they're in place when power is applied.

Step one is to get inside the machine.  Can you post a good picture of the lock on the side of the machine (it should be on the right side of the machine, at about the same level as the black sticker that says "Machine accepts $1 through $100 bills")?  We can determine from that if it's a lock that might be easy to drill out, or if it's a high security lock from the casino.

Welcome to the site, by the way!

 :238-

I love lox but hate locks.

A lock is good if you don't want guests/kids fiddling around in the machine.

I don't know how to remove a high security lock so I defer to the experts here LOL

The cashbox might even have some $$$ in it (happens)

Even high security locks come out easy with a 1/16" drill bit. Just drill each of the 8 or so brass pins, takes around 10 to 15 minutes average

There are half a dozen of those old early S+'s on the floor here at work.
They have no belly doors and use those old "Sevens Systems" acceptors behind the reel glass
on the right-hand side on a big ugly ramp-like reel shelf...
That bill acceptor unit is huge, heavy like about 15lbs to 20lbs! lol
Also, the power supply is located in the back-center of the machine with the motherboard
and MPU located on the left-hand side of the cabinet.
Finally, the plastic drop hole is located way on the far right-hand side of the cabinet floor.

I guess coin in and out is the best option for her rather than getting that bill acceptor working. Even if she got a WBA it may not be able to be used because of the early model of the slot. The power cord needs to be replaced for sure. It needs a very good cleaning, be prepared to get down and dirty because it will be really dirty and you will be pulling lots of tar and dirt off the surface and the inside.

Thanks for all ya'll help so far!  I just filled out my profile and I'm in Cut Off, LA.  Hopefully someone from here is near me!  I'd gladly pay someone to do this for me lol seriously tho I would!  There's two black cords coming out the back.  Where it's cut, it looks like they both have 3 tiny wires inside the black casing.  StayOut, it does say "1995 Sevens Systems" where you put the bill in.

Knagle: There's actually two locks on the machine.  One on the side and another farther back on the side.  They look to be the same style, but I'll take a picture of both of them to attach here.  The first one is on the side of where you put the bills in.  The second one is lower but on the same side near the bottom of the machine.

Reho33: I know what you mean about locks and kids.  My two toddlers have been trying to play the machine all day!

First pic is door lock. 2nd is for reset. DO NOT drill 2nd one.
Ford

Oops, there's actually 3 locks great lol!  It's on the left side of where it says "Coins Played".  The name on the lock is Medeco.

I'm prepared to get down and dirty!!!  I just have to figure out how to work a drill lol.  Gonna see if I can call someone to come do it.  NOT the 2nd one tho!

Thanks again :131-

If her validator still works, she could still push $1 bills through it all day long couldn't she? Actually, anything BUT newer bills. Just saying it's not useless and really doesn't need to be removed unless it's broken

If the bill thing doesn't work it's not a big deal.  I like to hear the money falling down into the tray! 

Sorry about posting the same pic twice last time, don't know how to delete it.  So I think I found someone to come over to drill the first lock.  Should we drill the 3rd one too?
Emelie

Third one's probably not necessary unless the bv doesn't work. If you have someone coming over to drill the one, you might do it just to save him another trip though, you'll want to get in there eventually

Gotcha, thanks Cowboy!

He's coming over tonight so I'll post a pic of what the inside looks like tomorrow :)

You might be able to disassemble the bill validator from the inside out once you have the door lock drilled out, so I wouldn't go and try and drill out the third (Medeco) lock yet.  Those are high security locks, the proximity to the reel glass is a little too close for comfort, and it certainly isn't necessary immediately to get the machine working. 

I'd worry about the door lock (the first picture -- the one above the sliding metal lever with the broken white label that runs through it) first, and only that one for now -- that's my $0.02.

Here is another tip: make sure that whatever you place that slot machine on, that the machine is secure. If your children pull the handle hard enough, it may slide off and fall causing injury. Some machines have holes in the bottom for lag bolts to attach the slot to the stand so it won't fall. See if you can get a genuine stand from the same place that the slot came from. Yes, with children about you might want new locks and keys to keep them out. Also, you might want to consider running it on tokens as real quarters might "disappear" over time with laundry, candy,etc. You can get 1000 tokens quarter sized for about 60-80 dollars. 1000 quarters will cost 250.00 so consider it.

Those locks are hard to drill since they are Medeco Locks
Medeco puts hardened pins in face of the lock to make it hard to drill.

Nothing a well placed M-80 can't fix LOL

I gave to agree about the Medeco lock. It will be harder to drill, you'll risk breaking the glass in the process, and you might be able to disassemble the lock from the inside without violence. :5- :96-



The purpose of the bill validator is to add lots of credits at one time so you don't have to keep feeding it coins for every spin. You'll come to appreciate it if it turns out to be useable. Cashing out the credits would still drop coins to the tray, so you wouldn't be giving that up.

---

To delete the extra copy of the picture that you posted, click on the "Modify" button (do NOT use the quick edit). You will see the two image file names listed with check boxes to their left in the same location that the upload text boxes were before. Just uncheck the box of the picture you want to remove and save the post.


StatFreak :31-
:nlg-  Global Moderator

Have we even determined that the lock is locked? I did not see anywhere where she tried to lift the lever below the lock.
The cam might not even be installed on the lock.
I know this is the obvious, but it might be worth a try before drilling.
I always say, try before you pry.  :279-

I tried lifting that lever thing but it wouldn't budge.  I was wondering what that even there for anyways

OK, Drill baby Drill.....

That's how you open the door.   :89-  With the lock unlocked (or removed), lift straight up on the lever, then the door opens out towards you.

Even if it's locked there should be a tiny bit of play in the lever (not much, mind you, but a tiny bit).  If it's not moving at all, try a gentle tap upwards with a hammer to see if it's just "frozen" in place.  If there is a tiny bit of play, but it's hitting another piece of metal, then you'll need to drill out that lock.

Get the power vac ready too!  :72-
There's gonna be anything from a rat's nest to minutiae skeletons in there!
It's amazing how many little critters get into the hole where the cords exit the machine when sitting for awhile!

Your "well" driller needs to be very careful he doesn't bust a drill bit and scrape the heck out of the laminate.
He needs to go real slow and let the bit do it's job!

Were you able to find a computer cord?
You'll need that to power it up.
There will be a plug going into the side rail on the right just about a little off-center on the floor.
You will see where your new plug will need to go - it will be the "fattest" one...

The other wires are for casino book accounting and security purposes.
Those will not be needed at home.

We would like to see a couple of pictures of where those other wires are hooked
up to inside the machine when you get the door opened.
From there we will be able to tell you which wires to unplug and how.

So...is the husky fella with the industrial drill there yet?   :97-

This is like a good Mystery. Can't wait to see the insides.
Please be very careful & don't break the glass. Drill on the side lock where the lever is.. Too bad you can't find a good lock smith . Med-Co's  can cost big bucks.

If it was a Mummy or Musters their could be Bats inside. Oooh, I can't wait much longer.

Chances are that if the cord was cut in a hurry, there may be a prize inside!

CH :95- I see that you deleted the extra pic.  :5-  My goal was to let Emelie learn how to do it...  :200- :30-  :208- :208- :208-

SF :31-

I think her and the husky guy with the industrial drill eloped...:5- we haven't heard back yet!   :72-

Maybe you better hop on a plain & go to the west coast & help do the drilling

Sorry guys for the late reply!  I still haven't opened it yet :(  My friend flaked on me so I went to do it myself with my husband's drill (he's working) but it needed to be charged.  So I go to put the battery on the charger and he freakin FRIED THE CHARGER!  Apparently he left it plugged in and the whole thing was melted.  Now just think, this was in our bedroom right next to his gun case so he could have burnt down the whole house.  Who knows how long that thing's been plugged in!

Unfortunately, there are no locksmiths here (I live in the marsh).  The closest one is at least an hour away so he's gonna charge an arm and a leg just to come down here.  BUT I know my dad has one (even though he refuses to help) so I'll try to borrow it today I will get it open, I'm determined!!!

I'll let ya'll know as soon as I do get it.
Em :)

WoW! It's a good thing you found that melted charger before the bullets fired off...!!!  :5-

That sounds like a great idea -- The only problem is that Emelie isn't on the west coast or anywhere near it!  :25-  He'd be off by 1,900 miles! :30-  :72- :72- :72-




 :79-  On the other hand, that sounds like a great idea!!  :267- :267- :199-    CH :95-   and I :31-   (and probably Buzz) would love to get together with you, Bunker.  :136- And we have lots of GOLF COURSES around here in case you get bored. :208- :208- :208-  
Heck, we might even drive you out to the command center to meet Joey, although you'd probably melt in the Bullhead summer heat.  :159-

Stat :31-

Alright so after HOURS of trying to drill, beat, etc. the lock we finally got it open!!!  Bonus: We found two quarters inside  :96-  Now I'm dying to get inside the bill box  :91-

I haven't gotten a power cord yet.  My husband brought an extension cord back from work but it has 2 prongs and I need one with 3.  Here are pics of the inside!

An extension cord will not work, you need to get a computer power cord it has 3 vertical slits 2 parallel and 1 above. It is the same power cord used by any desktop PC. If you can find a thrift store, they might have it in there or a computer shop, should be not more than a couple of dollars. Then add the extension cord for length afterword.

I can only post 2 pics at a time...

I know ya'll said to get a power cord like a computer one but is there a specific name for it if I can make it to Radioshack today?  I'd hate to try to explain what I need and they look at me like I'm stupid  :25-

ok so if I say a computer power cord they'll know exactly what I'm talking about, right?

A Computer power cord for a desktop. But that piece that you have looks like the reverse of what you need, maybe you could take that piece in with you and they could match it up.

Also here is a pic of the plug hanging over the back of a stool.

Ron (r273)

I can't take it with me cause it's connected to a black box that's connected to the machine but I'll bring the picture of r273's cord in with me. You guys have been so helpful and patient with me thanks!
Em

You will need to put one of the
quarters into the coin comparator.

What's that book behind the coin hopper?  :209-

Probably the casino maintanance log. I've come across a few of those in machines before, especially machines from the Luxor

the coin comparator is the same thing as where you put the coins in to play, right?  i tried putting a quarter in last night just to do it but I guess it has to be powered on for it to go through.

And yes, it's a maintenance log.  Says the last time it was serviced was 2005.

Em

Does it say that some big dummy with a pair of pliers cut all the wires six years ago?  :96-

Jeesh! Why couldn't he just pull the plug out of the friggin' wall????????  :7- :277- :30-

There is a great video here on setting up the S+ heres a link, same as most games:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rowdrcsmkUw&feature=related (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rowdrcsmkUw&feature=related)

Wow, that is a great video!

Too bad when I finally got a power cord, it didn't turn on :(  How depressing

On the upside, I'm going to the Marlboro Ranch in 2 weeks and with my tickets I got today, I also got a $750 check.  So I'm checking out some slots online to buy.

Em

Post some pictures of the inside of your machine with the hopper removed.
High resolution pictures are best.

Whatever you do, don't toss the machine out! We consider it a challenge to get non-working machines fully functional. If you get another one, don't let them stay in the dark for obvious reasons! :208-

You did flip the power switch on after you plugged it in, right?

Where did you plug the power cord into?  Chances are it should not be plugged into that black power cord that was inside the machine.

Do us a favor to help you and as Neonkiss suggested, remove the hopper (it pulls straight out towards you and slides out on a track) and post a few good pictures of the inside of the machine.  (Yes, you can only post two at a time per post, but you can always keep replying to the thread to add additional pictures.)  We'll be able to help you more at that point.

Also, while you have the hopper out, check everywhere for additional loose coins.  You don't want any loose coins floating around when you do get the machine powered up.

I thought all hope was lost but I guess not! I did flip the power switch but nothing happened.

Kids are having a sleepover so as soon as I get them all in bed I'll do all that stuff. I'll take the best pics I can with my cheap little digital camera :)

Em

My money is on,
The power cord is not plugged into the power supply.
Otherwise she would have the high voltage florescent lighting.  ;)

That other plug shown in the picture might be for a 12V power supply to run player tracking.

Anybody else want to take a guess before the pictures show up?

Neon, I agree with you. The line input plug should be solidly installed -- probably on the outside of the PS case -- and not on the end of a cord. 

I was going to post a picture of a comparitor with a coin installed, but I see that the video covered that.

My $$ is on a burnt PS fuse...probably the 8A ???
The bottom one to be specific... :79-







man...those kids still playing "Risk"?
Nobody will ever bust through Australian wall...
They'll be dicing it out until 4 in the morning!

Not to digress but has anyone replaced those 3 fuses with circut breakers?

Too much work... :97-
Excellent idea though!
Karma + to ya!
I will rip out some panel breakers outta my house in the morning before I head to work!

Oh, NO!!  :8- :8- :8- :8-    Reho, we're gonna have to  :18- :100-  you for this!  :97- :97- :97-

One more Bunkerized^® slot coming up.  :146-  Hold the Fries  :98-  :97- :97- :97-

SF :31-

No, a real McGuyver project would be to imbed a gas powered generator in the slot so that you could fill it up and run it anywhere, power outages are not a problem with this baby!!!

MacGyver would get the slot running with nothing but a paper clip, a penny, some pocket lint, and a disposable lighter.  :79- :72- :72-
He might also use some duct tape and his Swiss army knife, but only in a "reel"  emergency. :5-  :71-  :97-

Grrrr...I tried sliding the tray and the thing that it's connected to up to take it off so I can slide the coin hopper out but that thing ain't budging.  Here are some pics the best I could get of the inside

First one is the black box that's in the machine that I tried plugging the new power cord into.  I don't think I can remove this box that I can so far.

2nd pic is one of the sides of the machine that looked so easy to slide up on the video posted above

Power button and left side of coin hopper

Wires in the back at the top

2nd pic is of a case at the top on the right side.  Inside is a black box but I can't get that black box out of the casing

Tried to take a better pic of the black box in the casing

When I try to raise it up over the lip of the casing at the bottom it slides out a little but hits the screw thing sticking out of the top part.

There looks to be a small nut holding the casing in place. You can just see it behind wiring loom in the last pic. Try and unscrew it slightly to see if it helps get the black plug out

Your really not in that bad of shape.
First, the coin tray.
It does lift up, and then pulls forward to come off. However many are frozen because drinks get spilled in the track and rust. If you have a rubber mallet tap up on the coin tray. Otherwise you will have to us the palm of your hand. It can be tough depending on the amount of rust. We know the machine has been sitting for six years or so.

Second, the black boxes..... Forget about it them....
Like I said earlier, those are for player tracking, SAS communications and stuff you don't need to worry about for now. Actually a lot of the wiring inside that machine will only be used in a casino environment.

I'll take some pictures of where that new power cord is suppose to plug into.

Here are the other pictures.

Robert   I wish I could remember but can't.  Her MPU is to the side of the hopper, I seem to think her power supply is in back of machine.  :103- :103- :103- I could be wrong.

Buzz, your most likely correct. But I don't have an early S+ to show that configuration.
Just trying to get the new power cord plugged into the machine power supply and not the other black power supplies.
When we get this done, then we can see where we are with the machine.

I've only owned one machine like her's  but when you go and tell her to press the test button, it's kind of hard to find. It's on the front of the MPU chassis  Her 2 nd Pic. seems a bunch of wires hide it from view.

Here is the S book power setup.
It's old but better than nothing.

this is for the S Slot not for the S+
Paul

Paul  Her machine is a S+ The older ones had the MPU beside the hopper. S has the MPU behind the hopper and does not have a mother board. (wires plug directly to the MPU)  I had one of those too.

Your right Buzz
Didn't look at the CPU board to see that
she has a S+ and not a S Slot.
Only trying to help out.

Paul

Don't want to hijack but quick question, I have one here that is 1993 with MPU in rear instead of side. Is it an S or S+?
model   b5029cf1w
Thanks, Ford

1993 I'm sure would be an S+, but the big identifiable difference between the two is that the S+ uses a board in a tray with a (usually) black knob on it that can be easily lifted out or seated in place into the motherboard by sliding the board in to or out of its connectors in the motherboard.

The S (non-plus) requires multiple wire harnesses to be plugged and un-plugged to connect or remove the board and tray.

Ford Kevin gave you a perfect ans.   If your machine looks like Neon's first pic. you have a S+ new style.  ( damn it's kind of hard to call something that old " New Style" )

Thanks Kevin & Buzz. Now I'm straightened out on that.   :259- :259-

Haaaa, This has to be a record.

Page 6 and we don't even have the machine plugged in. :200-

Robert I was thinking the machine is or was sitting on the floor. No way she is going to be able to hit the tray with a rubber hammer.  What if she tilts the machine back and places a 2X4 under the tray and then lets the tray down on the wood, I think that should break it loose.

 :299- :291- :291- :291-

OMG you guys, thanks to your directions and those pics I got it all plugged in and I have Power!!!

Well, sort of...When you flick the power switch on, the reels jiggle and place where it says 25 cents lights up!

I didn't try to close the door cause I don't have the lock off, my friend just kind of jimmied it open and my husband is at work so if I do close the door tonight I prolly won't be able to get it open till tomorrow.

OK so someone said something about a test switch?  Cause I didn't put anything back in, the hopper is still out and the piece at the bottom I didn't slide back in or anything.  I just flipped the power switch on with everything out and the door open.

Do ya'll want pics with the hopper out?

 :97-

I guess ya'll never had some girl here who didn't know what she was doing   :25- :25- :25-

While were waiting for Neon, look at the inside the door part of the door lock, you should see a flat bar that is held on by one nut. Remove that nut and bar. Once you have that bar removed the door can not be locked.

Pic. of the inside of the door and machine would help. 

Don't you worry about not knowing anything about slot machines, we have experts that are in the same boat. Your being Female is a Plus.  I ask for help one time and someone posted that I was too flat chested to get any help from them, to figure it out by my self.

LOL Buzz, you're so silly :P

Maybe I should post a provocative pic as payment haha

I guess I'll have to find a wrench or whatever to undo the those nuts and bolts!
Em

No No No no provocative pic.  If you did that in a very short time you would have members lined up outside your door wanting to fix your machine. Wouldn't be fair to me, I live on the West Coast and take me to long to get there.

You can probably get that nut off with a pair of pliers.

Still waiting for Neon, he's a Fireman probably out getting a cat out of a tree or some of that other hard work they do.

You said you tried to drop a coin in and it wouldn't go, that's a good sign. On the inside of the door right below the coin drop there should be a coin comparator with a sample coin that you can see. If no sample coin in the comparator, with your right hand slide back the Black piece with your left hand insert a quarter then let off on the spring loaded black piece, it should hold the quarter in place.( it needs to be pretty straight )  Now below the comparator you will see a small green board, on this board is very very small white button, press this button a couple of times and with the door still open reach around and press the spin button.  Let us know what happened !!

haha i was just kidding, i'm too self concious to ever do anything like that.  Although that would be awesome if someone showed up to fix my machine!   :3-
Oops, pliers, that's what I meant!  I have one bolt I can't get off, have to wait in the morning for hubby to do it.

Did the quarter thing and nothing happened.  But there is a red light on the coin comparator.  Is that supposed to be lit up for it to work?  Cause it's not.

Pics of the inside coming tomorrow after I clean it.

Em

The light on the CC should be "Off" when the door is open on an S+...so THAT'S a GOOD thing!  :89-

Is there a quarter in the coin comparator similar to the one you're dropping through it?
For instance - Canadian quarters don't work well with American quarters...

Em   did you press the small white button and press the spin button with the door open ?

Yup, did all that stuff. Nothing happening yet. Coins r the same too

It will not work with coins unless the door is closed and the door latch MUST be pushed clear to  bottom !!  Not allmost to the bottom, all the way down.

But if the white test button on the coin optic board didn't add credits, then there are other problems besides the door being open.



If the reels get stiff, that's a good sign. There is power to the MPU board. The lit 25¢ sticker means that you have the 7vac. Are there any error codes in the LED windows? Do the reels actually spin once when you power up the machine?

You didn't mention the florescents. Do they light up? They should, since they're on 110v and the machine is powering up.

OK so should I screw that bar back into the machine once I unscrew the lock from the inside? 

There is nothing in the LED windows but then again, maybe I have to have the door closed all the way for them to light up.  The reels don't actually spin, they just kind of jiggle a little then stop.  Nothing else lights up except the 25 cents sticker and I saw a red light in the bill acceptor.

Em

Yes Emelie,
Just remove the flat bar for now and put the nut&washer back on the end of the lock for later on.
You want to be able to fully close the door so that the latch can be pushed all the way down.
When you do that, keep an eye on the display...especially the coins played window.
It should change from a zero to either a 1,2,or 3.
If there is nothing lighting up on the display then I'd check the little square black plug that going up into the display panel.
Make sure it's fully inserted into the display panel socket. Jiggle it a little watching the display to see if the red lights flash on momentarily.

There's no way that red light on the coin mech should be "On"or lit up with the door open.
I'm suspecting something else
( possible burned out display panel but the machine will work even with that panel being totally out of the machine...)
but let's get your door to be able to be fully closed for now.

Alright, got the lock off and the bar is back in place.  Able to close door and push bar all the way down  :244-

I'm not sure where the black plug that goes into the display panel is.  I took pics of the inside though with the coin hopper and all out.

more

I think it would be on door

  pics of the door coming

and more

lalala

ok if ya'll want more detailed photos of anything just tell me

I think it's on pic 12. It shows that it's plugged in.
On right side. Check & make sure it's plugged in.

A little history on that machine...
It was once on a now defunct cruise ship called "Sterling Casino Lines" operating out of Port Canaveral, Florida.
They had 4 small casinos on that ship and this machine was running in one of them.

Okay...back to the problem at hand, EXCELLENT pictures by the way!!!!  :244-
Turn the top back fuse knob on the panel where the cruise log book is sitting in - turn it counter-clock wise.
The fuse and fuse holder should pop out...this is an 6 Amp / 250 volt fuse...it is burned out.
This is why you don't have any lights on the display panel.
There should be lights on that panel even with the door open and the machine powered on.
There should be a "zero' lit up in the "Coins Played" window when the door is opened.


Take a look at that fuse and look closely inside the glass and see if the thin piece of metal inside
is separated at all or if the glass looks like there a little bit of black residue inside of it.

One way to test that fuse is to turn the power "Off", swap that fuse with the bottom one...
Leave the middle fuse alone! That one is an 8 Amp fuse!
Now, with both fuse in their sockets, turn on the power switch - if nothing happens...(no power, no 25 cent light) -
the bottom fuse you've swapped is burned out.

Go to your local hardware store or radio shack and ask for a couple of 6 AMP/250Volt bus fuses.
Ask for the "Quick-Blow" type and replace the ones you have.
When you install them and turn on the power switch - your display lights should come on.

Also, take a good look at those fuses...make sure they have the tiny writing on them showing you 8A/250V.
You may need real good glasses to see it! lol The writing is real tiny!

I forgot that your display is actually part of the bill acceptor on those particular S+'s.
The display's wires are part of a ribbon cable in the back of of the display under the bill stacker.
We will get to that later.

Please remove that paper logbook from the machine...it's a fire hazard.

Also, follow that video that I posted, insert a quarter or token sized like a quarter into the coin comparitor, looks like you had no coin in there

In the photo, there's NO  coin it the sample coin holder.
My question is the:

If there's no coin in there...how did the coin drop through?  :128-

A couple of minor things.  The first picture is as the others mentioned -- it's the coin comparator.  You must put a good sample coin (a nice clean quarter) in there.  This isn't going to solve all of your problems, but it's something that you must do in order for the machine to eventually work.

Second, very minor, a light bulb appears to have popped out of one of the buttons.  Re-connect the wire, and re-insert the socket into the button, giving it a quarter turn once it's in there to latch into place.

Click on the pictures to enlarge them.

I should mention, too, there are some other issues with your machine right now.  We should be able to get them fixed, but the reels should spin up when you first apply power, with all three of them spinning and then coming to a stop one at a time.

We've been assuming that the board has software (all of the needed chips) on it.  That may not be the case.

With the hopper removed and the power off (in fact, as described below, please unplug the machine first), please remove the MPU board and take a picture of it.  The MPU board is located within the silver metal tray along the left side of the cabinet, next to where the hopper normally sits.  To remove it, lift straight up on the black knob -- it should move up about an inch or two.  At that point you should be able to tip it to the right and then remove the whole tray out of the machine.  Make a mental note of how it was removed, because that's how you're going to have to put it back in.

It's possible that the tray may be difficult to remove.  Don't be afraid to pound upwards on the black knob with your hand (or VERY gently with a rubber mallet, if necessary) to get it loose.

When you put it back into place, make sure it is firmly seated back into the fixed motherboard on the bottom of the machine (the MPU board plugs into the motherboard in order to work).  Also, again, make sure that the power is off when you insert or remove the MPU board (or when you do most any other stuff on the machine, as the power supply is exposed behind the hopper based on your pictures -- actually, it would be a good idea to unplug the machine when you're working on it so there's no danger of hands or parts making their way into the power supply which may have live current even when the switch is off).

If you don't have a rubber mallet and the tray is stuck in there good - try wiggling the black knob on
the MPU tray back and forth towards the back and front of the machine while exerting force upwards.
It should come out as knagl described... :89-

Here's a couple photos of the bill acceptor you have - with the lock removed...front and back of the display.

(*note* see the little white ribbon cable going down the left hand side of the display?
It goes down to another circuit board under the stacker box track.
There's three circuit boards in that thing!
It's far different from the newer S+'s that use a full length reel glass
with the long Tripps plastic display panel....
The unit then uses an entirely different harness that extends from
the back of the DBV/display unit out to the motherboard.
Also, the entire unit can be removed by undoing 4 nuts under the reel shelf,
reach in behind the DBV unit and pull out all the money the cruise ship left in it!...lol)

Click on any photo to enlarge>>>

Got the coin comparator to work!  Didn't realize I had to keep it open with the coin in.  I had it closed with the quarter behind it.

OK so both fuses seem to look.  Nothing broken, no residue.  I switched the top and bottom ones, and the same 2 lights came on. 

One fuse says 250V Buss AGC 6A

The other says 6A 250V 312

Also, there's some wire in the door that's not plugged in.  Is that the one ya'll talking about that's supposed to be?  I didn't see a place to plug it in at

Em

this is the wire that's not plugged in on the door.  Forgot to post it

That plug ( called a Molex connector plug) is not needed right now.
It's not very clear to me but it may also be for a multiple 3/5 or 9 line game kit credit shadow box ights that attach to the reel glass.

Now, what number are displayed on the "Coins Played " display while the door is open and then closed?

OK trying to get the MPU tray out...

StayOut: How'd you get that Medeco lock out of the bill acceptor?  Did you drill it out?  I wonder if I call Medeco if they can let me buy some kind of master slot key or if they even have that?

There's still no numbers coming up on the Coins played.

Make sure the power switch is off before trying to get the MPU out!!!

Don't bother Medeco...you don't have to open it right now.

knagl, those pictures are priceless!  I'm one of those ppl who learn by seeing so it made it much easier, thanks :)

Oh, and there are actually 2 green boards on the tray.  One close to the door and one more to the back.

Start snapping a few pictures of the boards Em...
We will let you know if it will work or not as soon as you post them up.

Ok I can't get them out. We'll have to wait till 5 (central time) for my husband to wake up for work. I'll ask him to try

I'll be golfing but many others are watching this thread and will be able to help you with ANY questions you may have!  :89-

Alright well thanks for all your help so far and have fun golfing!!! :)

Ok I can't get them out. We'll have to wait till 5 (central time) for my husband to wake up for work. I'll ask him to try
[/quote]



« Reply #105 on: Today at 02:32:02 PM »   

"If you don't have a rubber mallet and the tray is stuck in there good - try wiggling the black knob on
the MPU tray back and forth towards the back and front of the machine while exerting force upwards.
It should come out as knagl described... "



I have to use two hands on the knob to wiggle it back and forth and lift real hard on mine.

Ron (r273)

Very Good Pictures.  :244- :244- :244-
Those are the kind we like to see.

Before you apply power again, I noticed a few things in your pictures.
You have some coins stuck in places in the back of the machine. While this is normally a good thing to gave spare change laying around, It a bad thing when it comes to slot machines. Coins are metallic and conduct electricity. If they get stuck in bad places they can short out components.
See the attached pictures, where I circled in red two coins that are stuck in the back of your machine. If you have two, I can guarantee you have more. The worst place to get a coin stuck is under the Motherboard. I drew a line where there is a gap between the mother board where coins get stuck. You need to check all these areas for coins before applying power again.

First you need to get that MPU out as everyone has suggested, then keep posting pictures as you go.
Your doing good.

OK got it out!  Here are the pics.  I can't figure out how to take pics without that flash showing up.

First pic is the whole board and then I took some close ups of each corner.

more

last one

If ya'll need me to try to do them better just tell me.  Won't hurt my feelings or anything :)
Em

 :72-  :72-  :72-

Sorry, I know it's an innocent question, but the icon above is what they'll do right before they hang up the phone on you.  Medeco is known for some of the highest security standards.  Even a legitimate locksmith won't go anywhere near that lock without documentation that you're the registered owner of it, despite you having possession of it.

As Bunker mentioned, don't worry about that lock for now -- it's not needed to get the machine working.

---

Okay, good news on your board pictures -- the chips that you need to operate the machine are still in there!  (They're the GAME and REEL chips under that red tape.)

Before you put the MPU board back in place, please do as Neonkiss suggested a few posts earlier, and WITH THE POWER UNPLUGGED, remove the stray coins that are still in the machine.  Be sure to check as best as you can under the motherboard (where he underlined in red in the second picture in his post) for coins there, as those can really cause a problem -- perhaps even tilt the machine on its side a little (careful, it's heavy, and the door may try and slam shut on your fingers) to try and free any potential stuck coins.

Oh, also, for your future knowledge, take a look at the MPU board and notice the blue knob at the top of the board that slightly sticks out through the metal tray.  That is the volume control for your machine.  You'll likely want to adjust that in the future once we get your machine up and running.  For now, rotate it gently and you'll feel it won't spin a full 360 degrees -- there are stops at the loudest and quietest (off) settings.  For now, rotate the knob so that it's in the middle of each extreme (a "medium" volume).

Board looks clean, with no corrosion. At least you have software installed.
Sometimes after a machine has been sitting for six years the battery leaks and ruins the board.

Take some pictures of where this board came out from. Let's see if you have some coins stuck in there?

Wow, I can't believe I missed those two quarters, thanks!  I looked all around with a flashlight and I don't see anymore so hopefully that's it.

Awe, Come on.
There has to be more. I could see those two and I'm a 1,000 miles away. :97- :72- :200-

That type of board may have a screw holding it in place .. in front at the bottom towards the front of the machine.

yea, it was kind of hard to look under where the board was.  Tilted the machine, didn't hear or see anything.  Will take pics.

more

LOL Neon, yea but I look with my eyes closed apparently...

Oh crap, I'm glad I mentioned it on here.  I would have felt really stupid if they laughed at me.  You know, before I found this board, I called IGT cause I saw that was on the machine and I was talking to a lady, trying to get her to tell me how to get inside the machine and asking about the power cord and stuff and she was like "UHHhhhhh...do you work for a casino?"  I was like no girl, I'm in my house and I promise it's not stolen!  She said she couldn't help me to call a locksmith and an electrician. haha she prolly thought I was crazy calling her.  I'm glad I found ya'll instead!

I assume you don't have a voltage meter?
Before you put the MPU back it would be good to test that battery voltage.
If you don't have one, no big deal. The machine is smart enough it SHOULD give you an error code that the battery is low, IF it is.

FYI the attached photo shows the white test button mentioned before. It's hard to find if you don't know what your looking for.
With everything back together and power on that button should give you a credit with every push. That is with the door open.

Hmm (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=13519.msg116837#msg116837), that (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=13519.msg116837#msg116837) looks (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=13519.msg116837#msg116837) familiar (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=13519.msg116837#msg116837).  :96-

Yea, the test button doesn't do anything.  There's another button I pressed but I dunno what it's for.  It's in front of the MPU when you open the door.

This is a pic.

Oh, and no voltage meter.  Maybe I need a new battery?

That's the "self test" button for the rest of the machine (I pointed it out in this post (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=13519.msg116838#msg116838)).

Without the reels spinning up and you getting some life out of the LED displays on the front of the machine, I wouldn't expect either of the self test buttons to do anything.  You've got a bigger issue going, but we'll figure it out in time.

While you may need a new battery, that's not the only problem you have, and what you've described so far isn't symptomatic of a low battery.  Additionally, as Neonkiss mentioned above, generally you'll get an error code on the LED displays that indicates the battery is low.

Even though the fuses look good visually, it wouldn't hurt to get some replacements and put them in since you don't have a voltmeter to test your current ones.  Sometimes fuses can look good but still be blown.

ok well unless I can get someone to go to the store for me tonight to get some new fuses and a meter, I guess we'll have to resume this tomorrow.

*sigh*

All I wanna do is pull the handle lol

We will make a slot tech out of ya yet!

Okay,
I "looks" like your MPU is okay.
Re-install it with the power "Off".
You've swapped the top and bottom fuses and turned on the power switch right?
Can you tell us what happened ?

As far as I know - there's still no zero in the "Coins Played" window when
the door is opened and the machine is powered up.
In fact, there are no lights lit up on any part or the display panel right?

On the motherboard ( the board you were looking for quarters underneath)
there is a white Molex connector that has 2 green wires, two orange wires, a blue, and red wires.
6 wires are going into that white Molex power connector.
Wiggle that connector a little bit then turn on the power switch.

After you do that, gently feel the 3 reels to see if they are sort of "locked" into "place".
They "can" move if you really want to move them but there should be
some resistance in which they want to stay still.
I need to tell if there is power going to the reels.
If so, then we have to trouble shoot elsewhere.


I'd like you to wiggle the Black connector on the motherboard that has the ribbon cable plugged into it.
That cable is for your bill acceptor and display panel.

I think she's OK
Reply 79

I think her fuses are okay too Neon.
But without the display, we don't know if she's sitting on a [61] or a [61-x] error code?

Mark  I know you know S+ machines, just don't forget there is a molex on the mother board that controls the display. I just spent months trying to figure out my S+ 5 reel with no display. JIM put me on the right path on that one. I told him the problem and right off he said " you have two plugs switch"  he was right.

It's possible Buzz because that darn plug fits two positions on the motherboard.
I don't think they were switched though - do you?
It doesn't appear to me that anyone would have switched it because when it was auctioned off -
all they did was take a pair of pliers and cut the power wires sticking out of the machine!

Let me look at some schematics...I don't have an S+ at hand or nearby at the moment.
I don't have the motherboard layout drawing of all the header connectors here at home...

Add>>>
The only thing I found was the old early S+ manual which shows Em's particular bill acceptor display panel.
All my S+ info is at work...argh!!! >>>

Am I the only one that thinks that, given the overall condition of the inside of this machine, it would be prudent to actually remove the mother board to check for coins and other contaminants beneath it rather than be satisfied with a flashlight search?

I realize that Emelie is inexperienced, but she now has detailed pictures documenting where the motherboard harnesses are plugged in, and more helpers than Santa Clause a week before xmas. :96-

I'll defer to the group.

She doesn't have to disconnect anything, 3 screws and it will lift high enough to see under it.

I think this thread will break a record 10 pages already

Allow me to begin Page.11   :72-

Stat,
I'm not quite sure anyone wants Em to stick a screwdriver anywhere in there!
She's got two small kids, the hubby's sleeping all the time and
we keep telling her to turn "Off" the power!!!   :96-

Great Job so far Emelie!  :244-  Looks like you are well on your way to getting your machine up and running.

Let's summarize what we know so far ...

When the power is turned on: The reels stiffen up and the 25 cent Display illuminates. - This would indicate that the middle fuse is Good, since that allows voltage to the MPU and panel lamps.

You have no LED displays and I am assuming the Top Candle lights are also not working:  This may indicate that you are missing your 24 Volt power supply source.  That source comes through your TOP Fuse.

As Bunker had instructed you to do, you Switched the TOP and BOTTOM Fuse, and nothing different was noticed:  This tells us that the TOP fuse was good. If the Bottom fuse was bad you would not see any signs of Power.

The Fact that you have no Fluorescent Lighting behind the top or bottom glass, could be caused by Bad Starter, Bad/Missing Fluorescent tubes, or Bad power supply - BUT this is not Important right now to get your machine running.

Your next step will be to purchase an in-expensive digital volt meter.

I kinda mishandled the fuses after I switched them so I don't know where they originally came from.  I just stuck them in whichever hole when I switched them back. 

I'll get a volt meter.  You get that at a hardware store, right?

I'm not working on my machine today.  Very tired and I think I'm taking the kids to the movies tonight.  Update tomorrow :)

Em

If you just switched the top and bottom fuses, they are the same value fuse.  You can leave them were they are.

You probably can find a digital Volt meter at a hardware store.  A lot of stores now carry the inexpensive voltmeters.

Radio Shack and Automotive section of many Department stores should also have them.

You should be able to find one for Under $20.   

Yea it's just the top and bottom ones so I'm still good :)

Alright, my dad gave me this volt meter, not digital though.  What's the next step?

Set the meter to continuity testing -- the needle should move all the way over when you touch the two leads together, and then move all the way back to zero when they're not touching.

Once you have that set up, with the slot power OFF, remove the fuses (one at a time), remove them from the black fuse holders, and test for continuity on each fuse (touch one lead from the voltmeter to one side, and the other lead to the other side).  If there is continuity, put the fuse back in and test the next.  If there's not continuity, you have a bad fuse.

OK so my dad's one doesn't work and I hate going to the store soooo.....I'm gonna order one from Amazon.

Is this what I need?

http://www.amazon.com/Digital-Volt-Meter-Voltmeter-Multimeter/dp/B001RSREKI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1309572798&sr=8-1 (http://www.amazon.com/Digital-Volt-Meter-Voltmeter-Multimeter/dp/B001RSREKI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1309572798&sr=8-1)

Thanks
Em

Yep!

Ron (r273)

ok great thanks!  Ordering it right now!  Heading out to the Marlboro Ranch Tuesday so it should be in by the time I come back :)

Are you home yet? I cant't wait to see you get this machine running.

Is she ever coming back? This thread has been very educational...and the suspense is killing me...

I'd say she shacked up with a Marlboro Cowboy.

No Marlboro Cowboy for me but I could have stayed at that ranch forever!

Sorry I never posted back.  I just felt stupid because I got that tester in from Amazon and I know ya'll said to put it on continuity but I don't know where to plug the black and red wires in (there's 3 holes) and what to switch it on (cause nothing says continuity on the machine).  I even looked it up on youtube and I still don't understand :(

On many multimeters the test lead jacks are color coded red and black for ohms.

The "Ohm" jack may also be marked for use with other functions.

The ohm symbol may be shown, which looks somewhat like a horseshoe.

Some dials may have separate ranges for ohms. Select the range that shows the least "0's" at the beginning.

Some meters may have automatic ranging or a "Range" button to press repeatedly to eliminate the leading "0's."

To test the meter, short the leads together. The reading should be "0." Some meters may have a button to press or a knob to calibrate to zero with the leads shorted.

Never try to measure ohms on a circuit that is energized. Current can damage an ohm meter.

If reading through a diode, different resistances will show when reversing polarity.

When reading higher resistances, be sure not to touch the tips of the meter leads, as the reading could include your body resistance.

Read more: How to Read a Digital Ohm Meter | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_5700786_read-digital-ohm-meter.html#ixzz1T4GDL0Ma


Also: http://www.ehow.com/how_4894886_read-multimeter-electric-tester.html

Hope this Helps. THE MAIN THING IS KNOW WHAT YOU ARE TESTING, AC (HOUSE CURRENT) DC ( BATTERY) OHMS (CONTINUITY).
IT WILL BURN UP YOUR TESTER IF IT IS SET WRONG!

Ron (r273)

 :259- Ron. Good post. :3-

Here's a video. I figured that a video was worth a couple of thousand words. :5-  My only problem with this video is that he puts down meters without auto-ranging capabilities and then fails to discuss manual ranging much, even glossing over it when he covers amp readings.

So my addition to this video is to warn you that whenever you start to test an unknown voltage (either DC or AC) or current, always start with the meter set to the highest setting. It is also best practice to do this for resistance. If the reading is too small to be useable, then switch to the next lower setting and retest. Continue to do this until you can't turn the dial any lower without overloading the meter. You want to take the final reading at the lowest possible setting on the meter to get the best accuracy.

For example, if you were testing a 9 volt DC battery (but didn't know what the voltage should be), then you would start at the maximum DC setting on the meter and step down until you clearly understood that the measurement was 9.xxx volts. Now, let's say that your meter has a 20v setting, and the next lower setting is 2v. You would take your final measurement using the 20v range, because you would then know that 9v would overload the 2v range.

You can often skip these steps, but when in doubt, better safe than sorry.

This video otherwise covers the basics.

Stat :31-

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bF3OyQ3HwfU (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bF3OyQ3HwfU)

Nice Starter Video Stat!

Emelie,

Your Meter dose not appear to have the "Continuity" Setting.  That's OK.  No problem.  You will be using the "Ohms" setting instead. The Ohms symbol as Ron mentioned, looks like a horseshoe.
Set your meter for the lowest setting on the Ohms scale to measure continuity. On your meter it appears to be 200.   Your leads go into the bottom two holes. 
The Black lead will always be in the bottom hole. The Red lead will be the next one up for both Voltage and Resistance/Continuity readings.   
Now switch your meter on and touch the two leads together.  You should see a bunch of Zero's on the display.  This indicates Zero Resistance or Continuity.

So now if you remove one of the fuses from the machine and place one lead on each side, you should see Zero Resistance on the display if the fuse is good.

ok so is it the 200 that's near the 750 under AVC?  or is it the 200 that's on the right side under DCA?  Cause that 200 has a u behind it...is that the horseshoe thing ya'll talking about?

Then there's another 200 on the left bottom under some zodiac sign and then another 200 under DCV.

I'd just hate to have it on the wrong 200 and blow the fuses.

For checking Ohms (continuity) Black wire plugs into Com.  Red wire plug into VUmA. Turn dial to the Ohms symbol, 200k.
Turn it on and touch probes together and it should read 00.0

Here is a manual on one that is almost the same.

http://www.cyberpoet.net/ebay/centech.html


Ron (r273)

for giggles...  uh.... shouldn't  "AVC"   actually be   "VAC" ?  :103-

Zodiac sign lolol :200- :97- :97- :97- That's the capital Greek letter Omega, and yes, it is the ohm symbol, which is the measurement for resistance in electronics.
It should look like this:    Ω

The "u" after the "200" is a lower case Greek letter Mu (pronounced like the words "Me-you" slurred together) and stands for micro in electronics, meaning one-millionth (1/1,000,000, or 0.000001).
It's different from an English u and actually has a tail, like this:   µ


Hope that helps.


StatFreak :31-

While we're at it, a lower case m after one of the numbers stands for "milli", which means thousanth (1/1,000, or 0.001)

Good God if this Gal isn't confussed enough she will be after reading all this BS.  All this to see if three fuses are good.

If I recall correctly, the three fuses are all mixed up anyway,  EM  put a fuse in the bottom holder and turn on the power. If the lights come on do the same thing with the second fuse same holder, same thing if the lights come on do the same thing with the 3rd and last fuse. IF the lights come on ALL YOUR FUSES ARE GOOD.

Not entirely. She's purchased a volt meter, which has many more uses than reading fuses, and it might benefit her to know how to read the scale values and use the thing. If she's not interested, she can skip it. Knowledge is never BS.




BTW Emelie, I didn't intend to be laughing at you. I just thought it was funny. Sorry if that came off the wrong way.

Stat :31-

I wish I knew how to type in those symbols for different values on a more regular basis... :5-
My "horseshoe" looks like this on my keyboard...>>> (     ^     )   :8-

http://tlt.its.psu.edu/suggestions/international/accents/codealt.html (http://tlt.its.psu.edu/suggestions/international/accents/codealt.html)

oh! That's cool! Thanks Buzz!
I bookmarked it so I can use it later on!  :293- :284-

THANKS BUZZ :259- :285-

Don't worry, you can make fun of me all you want, I know it's all in fun ;p

Yea so anyways I was still all confused and frustrated but then the pest guy came to spray around my house so I asked if he knew how to test fuses with the machine and he did so he tested them for me and they're good yay! He also tested the black plug in and the white plug in and said they had power.

(Sorry for the delayed reply. The site was down.)



Glad to hear it.  :3- :3-  
No one was making fun of you; we joke around and get off topic all the time around here. :89-



To the other conversation: You can also open MSWord to get hard to find characters. Go to the top menu and from the "Insert" menu select "Symbol..." It opens up a pop-up where you can select from lots of different symbols. Don't forget to change the font as you browse, as that is sometimes necessary to find what you're looking for.

When you select a symbol, it will display the <Alt> code if there is one, but in many cases there isn't. For example, for the Omega symbol, Ω, it lists the shortcut key as: "03A9, Alt+X" If you see something like that, you can't just enter an <Alt> code in your post, but you CAN insert the symbol into your blank word document, then copy it and paste it into your post! That's what I did for the Ω sign.


Stat :31-

lol emelie...you're dealing with a buncha nerds here who have no life and just fool around all the time.
Believe me, you'll learn EVERYTHING you want about your machine after a while!
AND...you'll have a bit a fun too!  :89-

So...are you getting a little more comfortable using the multimeter now?
Never, ever be afraid to ask questions...we ARE HERE TO HELP YA!!!  :89- :89- :89-

Bunker, not really lol, but I do know how to test the fuse in the slot now haha.  Actually I had the machine turned off and thought that was the same thing as unplugging it and when Robert tested the white plug in, it sparked and popped.  I was like OH SHIT.  He was like thank God I was just touching the plastic! haha.

So now what do ya'll recommend the next step is?
Em

Wow...I did not realize that this thread is now 12 pages long.
Uh...without reading 12 pages of stuff, can you briefly tell us what's wrong with your machine again?
Thanks!

LOL yes 12 pages is kinda a bit to go through.

So right now, when I turn the power on, the reels jiggle for a second and then stop. There is some resistance to them but if I wanted to, I can pull it to move them. Also, the only light that comes on is the light behind the 25cent sticker. Both top and bottom fuses are good behind the coin hopper. Also, I have a coin in the coin comparator and the quarters slide right through.

I think that's it :)
Em

Edit: just to remind y'all, nothing comes up on the LCD screen (I think that's what it's called), that black screen y'all said should show an error but it doesn't light up

OK emelie,
I just spent the last hour re-reading this entire thread...lol
When your friend stuck the multimeter leads into the white "Service Outlet", he may have blown something.
You need to re-check your three fuses again to make sure they're okay...ok? lol

What bothers me really are all those extra black power supplies with the long black cords.
If they were shorted out before at one time, they are now shorting out you bus bar too!
So, we need to remove them.

The one that bothers me the most is the one that plugs into the bus bar next to your power supply.
I've high-lighted the two wires with the green arrows in a photo below.
Pull the two black wires straight out of that bus bar.

By the way, a bus bar is a multi connection point for joining two or
more wires together that run on the same voltages.
That's why you see a lot of red, white and black wires pushed into that bus bar together.
Those are all 115 VAC household current so make sure the slot machine's plug is
out of the wall before pulling on the two black wires!!!
You can pull the power plug out of the side of the power supply connector which another circled in red...

Also, on the big panel over the power transformer are the 3 fuses...next to the fuse holder
on the orange sticker sheet will show you which AMP fuse goes in which of the three holes.
The AMPs are written onto the fuses as an "A".

Here's the photo of the two black power wires you need to remove.
Click on photo to enlarge...>>>

I can't believe you took time to re-read the whole thread, thanks so much Bunker :)

I did what you told me to, I checked all 3 fuses, they're all still good, thank God!

Also, I removed those two wires.  They go to the black box that's stuck in the machine. (the one ya'll said was for playing tracking).  So since I don't need that box, can I just cut the wires so I don't have them dangling inside the machine in the way?

I would just tape the end of the wires. Did removing the wires make any different when you switched the machine back on?

ok I'll tape em.  Everything is still the same

I'm not going to post anymore in this thread, I think we have to many cooks in the kitchen. Neon and Bunker started with the help on this machine so I defer to those two.

Robert, Mark don't forget,  two plugs can be switched on the mother board you won't get a display.

I agree with you Buzz but I really don't think anyone would have switched those?
I have a fully working machine on the live gaming floor exactly like Emelie's.
I will look in the morning to see what color wires go to which motherboard socket
so I can draw up or photo-shop Emelie a diagram so we can be sure she has the connectors in the right sockets.
I'm sure that will settle that - if it's a problem concerning the display panel.
I'm at home right now and don't have access to my motherboard wiring schematics which would tell me what color wires go where.

I also think that the machine has some sort of error that is causing the "wiggled" reels to stop
 and we can't see the error code  -due to the non-functioning display panel.

What confuses me is that she gets power to most of the motherboard's 6 pins.
I'm wondering which pin is NOT getting juice.
I'm highly suspecting a bad/oxidized ground pin from the power supply harness at this time.
I'm thinking it's one of the two green wires.
I wish she could turn off the power, remove that white Molex and turn it around so
she can tell us if the Molex housing is "browned out" from an over heated pin?
This suspicion comes from the large amount of condensation there was in the bottom of that machine at one time.
Her machine wasn't stored correctly that's for sure or it may have been a Hurricane Katrina victim.

oh...and Emelie, if you cut the two black wires coming out of the bus bar,
please separate the wires and tape them up separately or you will have a short!!!!
I'd very much prefer you pull those two wires straight upwards out of the bus bar - it's not that hard to pull on them.
Just grab one wire with a pliers and pull stiffly, straight up.
Then do the other black wire as well.
They WILL come out...

Don't hurt your hand on the reel shelf when they come out...
sometimes people pull too hard and fly right up to the metal reel shelf and hurt the back of their hands.
Wear gloves if you're afraid.
Thanks!


Again, I stress that you do this with the power plug pulled out of the wall or the machine's end - don't rely on merely switching off the power switch...there's still LIVE HOUSEHOLD CURRENT flowing in the machine around the power supply!

Buzz, thanks for all your help so far :)

Bunker, I pulled the wires out of the bus bar already.  It's just that they go way up to where the player tracking thing is so I was gonna cut it next to the tracking box so I didn't have those wires just loose in there.

I'm going crabbing today to catch some stuff for supper but when I get back, I'll show you a pic of what I'm talking about and I'll try to take that Molex thing out.
GTG
Em :)

Emelie,
I've made a horrendous mistake in my advice for you earlier.
I have good news and bad news...I know why your Sevens Systems Display is not working.
That's the good news...
The bad news is that I told you to pull out the two black power wires going to the floor bus bar...well...
ahem...that was wrong...you have to repair them or splice them back together.
Apparently after looking at mine, the two black wires from the bus bar run up to that Wallwarts power pack under the reel shelf.
You're going to need that!!!
(I can't believe IGT actually used a Wallwarts power pack... huh?!?!?!)


Okay....I took a bunch of photographs and it will take me a few posts to get
them all in and explain what needs to be done...so here we go.
Remember, you can click on any of these photos to make them larger if needed....
The 1st photo is the Wallwarts power pack under the reel shelf...
you can see I put a green arrow pointing out which one goes to the bus bar
on the floor to receive 115 Volts house current (115VAC) >>>>

Now in this photo the arrows show you how the power pack is connected with that small 2-pin white Molex.
(Molex connector housings come in many different sizes and shapes but are called Molexs because that's the name of the company that makes them...lol)

In this pic is the bus  bar two black power wires that run the 115VAC to the Wallwarts power pack under the reel shelf.
You need to repair these wires since I've heard you've cut and spliced them...
When splicing them together, twist the wires together and wrap some black electrical tape on the bare wires tightly!!
We don't want any bare wires showing...wrap at least four wraps thick of black electrical vinyl tape!
Make sure the rest of it goes BEHIND the bracket holding the hopper connector...not in front of it or else,
when you slam in the hopper, it may cut the wires and cause a short!>>>

Remember earlier you said that there was a connector under
the door button deck that was hanging and free?
Well, it turns out that is needed for the Seven Systems Display panel to work.
(By the way, the Sevens Systems Display is located on top of your bill acceptor
behind the reel glass on the right hand side of your machine.
It's a big, heavy combined unit that houses BOTH the bill acceptor, cash box AND display panel !!!)

Anyways, the 5-pin black AMP connector colors are green/red/gray/gray/gray.
(This connector is called an AMP connector because some company called "Amphenol" makes these...lol)

This connector plugs into a black 5-pin Amp harness connector behind the door....it may be still hanging down in there.
It comes from on a black covered harness from behind the Seven Systems Display.
The AMP connector on the harness is black and has 5-pins too! >>>>

Finally, there's one more thick black harness that comes out from behind the
Seven Systems display panel unit and that goes down to the motherboard under the MPU.

The motherboard is generally where all the connections from the machine go to...that's why it's called a "motherboard".
This motherboard in your machine is the one that's on the floor in the left side of your machine.

In the photo below, you can see the black 6-pin AMP connector with the gray harness
( Your's may be a different color harness? I have to check your pics...)
that plugs into the motherboard connector marked as "J6"...

Take a very good look at this photo and compare it to your motherboard connections.
You do not need any more connections than what I've shown you in my photo to have your machine running!

Again, please accept my apologies for asking you to pull out the black Wallwart power wires from the bus bar.
I was under the impression that it was just for the player tracking stuff but after reviewing again this thread -
it turns out that you have 2 separate WALLWARTS power packs in your machine!!!!
There's another one up in the topbox right?
Well...don't cut it! haha
You might need it later to change your messages in the display .
I'll tell you how to do that later...lol
Tell your friend to get rid of his pliers!!!!  :72->>>

Keep in mind, however, the bill validator is the least of her worries.  Granted, she'll need that power supply to get the validator working, but having a working validator won't do her any good if the rest of the machine isn't working.

Rather than focusing on that, may I suggest keeping this as simple as it can be and trying to get the machine up and running first?

Well, that outta cut out about 10 of the 13 pages (including my posts :97-). :127- :200- :208- :208- :208-
 :257-


 :186- [Ahem] Pardon me. :96-   Pray, continue... :79-

:31-

Yes...I understand guys but the Sevens Systems DBV is a combined unit with the display panel.
The display panel has a small ribbon cable going down to a larger circuit board -
which in turn has like 2 harnesses coming out of the back of the larger circuit board.

I'm not really trying to get the DBV working rather - I'm trying to get the display working
so we can see what error code is stopping the reels from completion of their "maiden spin" at start up.
My guess at this time could be a possible error code [41,42, or 43] ?  :103-

Without the display panel working...how can we get her machine up and running?

Bunker,

I knew what you were trying to do! :259-

CH :95-

My apologies -- I didn't realize that the add-in bill validator also operated the slot display.  Sorry!

That's okay knagl,
I removed the screws and covers from the back of the display panel and the Sevens Systems Display/DBV floor,
to take pictures of the circuit boards that are installed in this unit.
You can see how they're all connected via white or gray ribbon cables.
I think I posted these before because if I remember right, Foxxslots had a question about them sometime last year or so.
Click on any photo to enlarge...>>>

A couple more pictures of the rest of her Sevens Systems Display stuff under the covers...
If even after hooking it up correctly doesn't get her display working, then I would have to suggest that
Emelie put out an ad for purchase of a long reel glass and a long display Tripp plastics display panel...
It's very possible her display chip is corrupted under the floor panel of her display unit.

From there we will be able to determine what error code is
preventing her reels from completing their "maiden start-up spins"...
it could be just a loose reel connection under the reel shelf too...we don't know at this time...

When I first saw these, I thought they were the S+ printers that I had seen
in the older S+ wiring schematics...but it turned out to be a DBV/Cashbox/Display combo unit instead...
Another thing, there's a crapload of harnesses coming out of the back of this thing
which I tried to show in earlier photos... >>>

OK I'm pretty sure everything that I have matches your pictures...

I tried to caption mine the best I could using the Paint program but it doesn't look as good as yours  :96-

Oh yea, and I don't know what you meant by there being 2 Wallwarts packs.  There are 2 wires coming out of the Wallwarts packs at the top.  One on each side.

But first here are my pics...

On the J6 there's a white ribbon in front of the J6 Connector that's not in your pics.

I hadn't cut the wires to the bus bar so I was able to just plug them back in.

OK so I just clicked on my pics and my writing didn't come out big like yours did  :25-

Anyways, It was just labeling everything like you did to make sure I was getting it right.

Edit: Oh wait, the other wire in my pics going up into where the reels are is connected to the black box that I inplugged to plug in the new power cord.  Is that the other Wallwart pack?  Cause I don't see where I can plug it in at...

Hmm...I'm not sure Emelie but it does look like your Wallwarts power pack wires
under the reel shelf is coming out of both sides.
And it looks like you have a power wire going up the right side of the machine to the topbox.
I think that's for the topbox Wallwarts power pack upstairs for the player tracking system.
Make sure that the Wallwarts under the reel shelf is plugged into the floor bus bar, not the upstairs one...
Don't worry about the power wires for the player tracking system right now.

That ribbon cable that's plugged into the from of your motherboard is for the DBV (Dollar Bill Validator)
The machines I work with are not using the DBV's. (They run on quarters only...no bills.)
You don't need that plugged in for your machine to work but
you can leave it plugged in because it doesn't hurt anything.
I'd like to add that the mostly brown wires on that other connector is for the mechanical counters-
that's fine in there too.
In fact everything you have looks good but the display is not working even though
the J6 (green, yellow, black, and white wires) appears okay.
I'd like you to jiggle that J6 connector and see if the display lights comes on at all.

Don't worry about the captioning...it looks fine when I enlarge the pictures on my desktop screen.
I can read them fine.

I'm worried at this time that your display is NOT coming on.
I think all your power wires are okay because you have it plugged into the bus bar,
the motherboard, and the AMP connector behind the door under the button deck.

If you are still getting just the .25 cent sticker to light up but no lights on the Sevens System display -
I am left with no choice but to recommend you to place an ad for an S+ long reel glass and long display panel.
The long display panel that you get will plug into that black AMP connector under the button deck.

If you PM me you address, I will send you a long display panel but
you're going to have to get yourself a long reel glass.
When you get these  parts, I will show you how to take out the Sevens System
and replace all that now-defunct unit with a long reel glass and long display panel.
From there, we may be able to see error codes on the display and
work more on getting your machine up and running.

I have most of the stuff you need to get it going that I will let you borrow.
I will need some of the stuff back after you order your parts that you may need.

At the moment, more than anything else, you need a regular reel glass display panel
so we can do some trouble shooting.
Without it - we can't go much further right now.

Emelie,
Please re-read my last post as I made a couple of edits...
You might need to hit the refresh screen or the F5 button on your keyboard.

One last suggestion before ordering the long glass and newer display.
Bunker, did you ask her to check the voltage coming out of the Walwort supply to the Systems Seven?

No...but that's a good idea too...!

Not too too easy to do but here we go>>>

Emelie, remember that little white 2-pin plug?
Set your multimeter for like 200 VAC or what was it on yours? ACV? lol
Unplug and separate that 2-pin connectors that come from
the Wallwarts power pack under your reel shelf.
Be very careful when doing this...
turn on the machine's power switch.
carefully watch the leads and touch with both multimeter leads
onto the two pins inside that connector.

Do NOT cross them or you'll get a spark and the power pack will short out!
Make sure you have one lead on one pin and one lead on the other and glance at you multimeter
and report back to us what reading you have on it.

Turn off the power after doing this so nothing else happens.

Bunker   Where do you entend to find the wires and plugs for a long display ??

She has the black 4-pin and 5-pin AMP connectors for the reel glass display panels right under the button deck in her earlier pictures... :89-

Out of curiosity ... What should the output voltage of the Systems Seven Wall Wart be?  Also, should the output be AC or DC? 

Another issue that has me curious is the fact that we still don't know what the voltages are on the White Molex going to the motherboard.  All we heard was that it had "Power".

I would be interested to know if the two Orange wires on the White Molex had the proper 24 VAC on it.   Without the 24VAC there would be no display or Candle indicators. 

I have no idea Comm Tech...I'd have to pull it out of the bracket to see if anything is written on it
or check the output via a multimeter on a live floor machine.
I won't be able to check until Monday morning at the earliest really.
The only thing we know is that the "input" voltage for the Wallwart's power pack is 115VAC...

Emelie, have you any progress on this machine yet? Has been good reading to date

Sha Lord, I'm gonna have to re read this whole thread to understand what you told me to do.  Been really busy the past month so I haven't been able to mess with my machine.  Just want to apologize to everyone who's been helping me!!
Bunker, I sent you a PM :)
Emelie

Edit: I put it on 200 ACV and tested that 2 pin plug.  Don't know if I did it right but it stayed on 00.0

wow! Holy Thread Revival Batwoman!
Welcome back!  :267-  :72-

I will look at the voltage output of the wallwart powerpack in the morning
and post up a reading and some information for ya.

Okay,
I just went and checked the voltage coming out of that 2-pin connector.
With the power off, grab both white connector housings that run out to
the gray harness for the display/DBV harness and wiggle them apart.
Do NOT pull on the wires themselves or they will come out of the housing!
Just make sure you are tugging on the white plastic connector housings only!
They've been connected for almost 20 years or so and are going to be wickedly jammed together from oxidization.
Basically, the receptor pins are nearly "welded" to the male pins inside the housings.

Once you have them apart, turn on the power switch for your machine.
Set the dial on your multimeter to 200DCV and insert the black prong into the pointy side of the connector.
Insert the red prong into the other side and you should get a reading very close to 14.4VDC (Volts Direct Current)
If you get a negative reading of (-14.4) then the prongs are reversed and it's really no problem.
All that happened is you got a backwards reading on your multimeter.

If you do not get a reading at all while your multimeter is in the DC setting, then I would have to say that power pack is shot.
I will await for you report back to us then wrap up a long reel display panel for you and send it out.
We need to see what the error codes are and will only be able to do that once we get a display up and running.

OK so when you say to put the black prong into the pointy side of the connector, that means touch it to the pins, right?  And red goes in the female part of the connector?

Cause when I do that, I still only have 0 on my meter :(

I'm thinking maybe I should make you a video of what I'm doing to be sure I'm doing it right? 

Also what is a long reel display panel?  Is it like a piece of glass?  Just wondering cause I have all glass I'm supposed to....I think, lol.  Where would I go about buying one so I can return yours?  Oh, and PM me the cost of shipping with your paypal addy so you're not out that money!
Em

The one I was going to give to you doesn't work.
Here's a couple of links to the parts you need to have a working display for your S+.>>>

Long Reel Glass Display Panel>>>

http://rudysdeals.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=37&product_id=1386 (http://rudysdeals.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=37&product_id=1386)


Reel Glass>>>

http://rudysdeals.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=37&product_id=1445 (http://rudysdeals.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=37&product_id=1445)




or you can place an ad for for what you need in the "Classifieds" section of NLG.
The two prongs of your multimeter should touch the 2 pins of the connector that come OUT of the powerpack.
You want to try and get a reading of what is coming OUT of that powerpack.
If you get a reading of around 14VDC, then I really am not sure what's wrong other
than it's very possible that DBV Sevens unit doesn't work anymore.
It's way outdated anyways...
If you're not getting any voltages coming out of that powerpack, I suggest you scrap the whole Sevens DBV setup
and just go with a long reel glass and display instead.
It will cost too much to try and instead a complete DBV unit.
However, you machine won't be able to take any bills anymore.
But you'll be able to take coins or tokens and have a working machine!

Here's a picture of the connector coming FROM the powerpack.
Touch the black prong of your multimeter to the pointy hole (female receptor pin)
and touch the red prong of your multimeter to the bottom receptor pin to
get a positive reading on your multimeter.
Set the multimeter to 200VDC and turn on the power to your machine.

Great so if I purchase those things and install them then my machine will for sure work??
I'm so excited!

I'm gonna order those parts today and see if I can find a video on youtube telling me how to take out the Sevens DBV Setup.  I'm so ready to play this machine!

Em

Yes,
If you get the parts it will help you troubleshoot the problems because
we will be able to see what codes it's putting out onto the display.
As far as finding a video on removing a Sevens Systems - probably doesn't exist...
However, you don't need a video...when your parts come in, we will walk you through
the BV removal step by step until your machine is up and running.

This may take some time but seeing that you've responded like a week
after my last post - time doesn't seem to be a problem! lol

So sorry I've been responding late.  We've been changing the floor in the bathroom of our camper before we bring it to our "hurricane evacuation" land in Mississippi.  Between that and my 3 year old is in dancing, cheerleading, and glitz pageants it's hard to get time to work on the machine!  So thank you for staying so patient with me, God knows I wouldn't be able to do this without you!   

I'll let you know when the parts come in cause we're going to Miss. Friday till Sunday :)

Em

Just got  back from Miss. and I had a package on my doorstep...parts came in yay!
One step closer...

Emelie. NLG is back up, now can pick up where left off on facebook. Did you get it out?

No, not yet.  I'll post as soon as soon as my dad gets here and we can undo those bolts
Em

OK so I got it off!  Here are the pics of what it looks like now.  Oh yea, and it was plugged into this black piece which I'll show a photo of below.  The black thing has ITT Cannon DB 51226-1B on it.  Do ya'll need a pic of it with the top glass off?  Cause there's some more wires up there.
Em

the other pics

What's that big hole in the reel glass for? 
Looks like a half slant/ half upright machine now! :72- jk

OK, now you gotta plug your new display into the harness that's located under the button deck.
Be careful removing the reel glass and don't drop it.
Did you get your long reel glass yet?

Leave the wires in the topbox alone for now....it's probably just player tracking stuff.
We will get into that later.

Anyways, show us what display you bought?
Then we will go from there.

ok so just to make sure, I'm taking the white piece inside under the glass out and the glass right?  I bought the ones u told me to in the post at the top of the last page.

Bunker, I bought the exact ones you told me to on the last page but it turns out that it doesn't line up :(.  My husband replaced those two parts.  The $1 doesn't light up but all the reels still jiggle.  Here is a new pic of the outside and inside.

i just feel stupid now ugh

may I offer a suggestion?   you will have to replace your reel shelf to get the reels in their proper place. Jim at Blueridge has the correct ones.  the four connector plug (all blue wires) in reply #35  old lamp panel  gets plugged into the right plug of the new lamp panel.  the connector that went from the left side of the machine (door) to the System seven display gets plugged into the left plug on the new display. 

all that other CRAP associated with the after market bill acceptor is not needed for anything.

I just completed one of these mods last week.


Jim

Emilie, the group can still continue your diagnostics and repairs while you're waiting for the new reel shelf, so don't disappear while it's being ordered and delivered. :89- :71-

OK I got the blue side plugged in but don't see any connector that went to the Sevens System.  There's a connector with gray wires but it doesn't fit into it.

reply #198 bottom picture,its the 5 pin plug.it should have enough to make it over to the lamp panel.


Jim

It was a stretch but I got it.  When I turn the machine on or off, numbers come on randomly in the windows.  Like it might come on in the winner paid, the credits or the bet window.  Not every single time but like 99 percent of the time.  It doesn't stay on, it just flashes for a second is the best way I can explain it

When you say it "was a stretch" - are you saying that the connector or the display is being "pulled"?
The 4 and 5-pin connector should go into the bottom of the display panel without being tugged on.
If the connector is being pulled - it will cause the lights to go on and off.
They should be on at all times.

See if the harness is being limited somehow.
Maybe there's a tie wrap and screw holding the harness too far back into the cabinet when it really
should be extended out further towards the button deck so the wires aren't being pulled or shortened.
Once you have the connectors in firmly into the display, please tell us what numbers are being displayed in all of the windows.

I hope I didn't break anything *sigh* cause I cut the tie wrap and it still just flashes different numbers :(

Manually push in the wires back into the connectors right where they enter the connector housings.
I'm thinking it's possible that there's a loose pin/wire connection going into the Molex housings.

Also, what numbers are flashing ?
Sounds like a corrupted set of chips perhaps?   :129-

It's okay if there are numbers "alternating" between one and another -
that could also mean that you're in a mode which is telling us perhaps both the SP and SS chip numbers too.

ok I pushed them in but the numbers are still just coming on randomly and they only blink for like one second before it goes blank.  After I turn the switch on and off a couple of times to see what numbers come on, no numbers come on at all.  But here's what I could see...

Numbers of coins played: 2
Credits: the the third from the right numbers is mostly 5 but sometimes it's 6.  No other numbers in that window
Winner paid: I think a 1 came on somewhere in that window but that was only 1 time, didn't blink anything after the first time.
Insert Coin: Nothing comes on
Coin Accepted: Nothing comes on

Also, the 25 cent used to light up, but now that I've changed the glass it's $1 and that doesn't light up

Can I buy another set of chips?  I'm asking because Jim at Blueridge is supposed to call me today so I can order the glass I need so if I can order that too what's it called?

Em

You'll need to tell Blueridge what's going on with your machine too.
He may have a few suggestions that will help you.
Tell him your reels don't line up with the reel glass windows.
You will need him to send you a reel shelf.

Also, if you tell him what the awards are on your award glass, he may have
a pair or SS and SP chips for your game just in case for spares.

I strongly suggest getting a Clear chip to reset the memory and get the machine back
to it's original configuration but like I said, Blueridge may have other suggestions to help you out!

As far as the coin denomination window lamp being out - it could be just a burned out bulb.
They are inserted into the black square-ish lamp holders that come out of the back of the display board
by turning counter-clockwise an quarter turn and then wiggling it out of the hole.
Check the two contact points on the lamp holder with your multimeter for continuity.
If there's no continuity - then then bulb is burned out.

Still waiting on his call.  I didn't realize I called so late last night so I'd hate to call again today and bug him.

I wish one of ya'll lived close so I could just pay you to fix my machine lol

If one of us lived close we'd likely fix it for free.  Don't give up, though!  You've been given some very good advice throughout this thread, and we will get your machine working one way or the other.

I won't, I just get frustrated quickly and I'm not used to doing all this mechanical stuff.

It sucks too that I can't buy a slot since I'm in Louisiana...stupid laws

I'm not sure what to do now...

Here's the messages from the other week. Our connection is not good on the phone.

"Hi Emilie, I apologize for the phone, I believe it is on my end, that is why I couldn't answer earlier today, anyway looking at the picture it appears you have changed the Reel Glass and the Display to the newer type and changing the reel glass to the older wide style would not correct your issue with the reels not aligning, you need to change the reel shelf out, the metal shelf that the reels slide into, the type Bill Validator you had uses an different shelf than normal, so you need to go back to the original shelf, I though you mentioned you already had a new shelf, if not let me know and I believe we have one, for right now this is the best way to communicate since our cell tower is down, Thanks Jim

I haven't been following the thread so i don't know if you have the game working or not, I have the shelf and bulbs no problem, so I wouldn't change any chips unless the pays are off on a win

Personally I wouldn't buy anything until you get it working, it sounds like a power issue but you would need to see if you can get it to spin the reels or display an error code, have you tried pushing the small button by the coin optics under the coin mech to see if that put a coin in and let you spin the reels, if that doesn't do anything then I would take some pics of the wiring near the board in the bottom of the game where the board in the tray plugs in a post on new life and see if someone can see something going on, I just don't have the patience to troubleshoot without it being in front of me, but I will try to help out, Jim"

I told him I still wanted to buy the reel shelf twice but I haven't gotten any response back.  Any other places you'd recommend?  I wonder if I screwed up that wiring :(

Em

is cut off la close to vicksburg ms ?? if so i may be able to come help you soon.

ok one trick i found with most casion lock is it is hard to drill but most often you can take a "good" pair of vice grips and lock them on the door lock outside ring and turn the lock enought to get the door open. lock them very tight.

Mr. Kappler,
Emelie got the lock off four months ago...See Reply #33 dated June 22nd/2011

Emelie,
Email Blueridgeslots and tell him the reason you need the reel shelf is so you can use the long glass.
You already now have the long display panel right?

Take the reel glass off for now and store it someplace aside where it won't fall down or break.
Plug in the two connectors to that display panel.
Use a piece of wide masking tape and tape the entire backside of that display panel.

The reason why I want you to tape it up for now is because I want you to cover ALL
the little metal points coming out of the back of that display panel.
We don't want it to touch ANY METAL of the machine or it will short out.

Carefully stick it out the door through the window where the reel glass is now gone.
Let it hang over the front of the door onto the button deck.

Turn on the power and carefully close the door
and watch that you don't hit anything with the display
or it's two connector harness wires.

Now, pick up the display panel and tell us what numbers are in each window of the panel.
If it's easier for you, snap a picture of it showing us the numbers being displayed.
 

 

Couldn't she do that with the reel glass in place?  I realize that the reels won't line up correctly, but that's not really crucial at this point when she's just trying to get the darn thing to work, right?  I think that is what was being said here:


I happen to agree with that.  Why buy a reel shelf if the machine still isn't working?   :103-

Going back a few months ago...I think I suggested she buy 3 things...I don't recall...
It's been a while.... :5-

1) A long reel glass display
2) A long reel glass
3) A reel shelf.

Since she doesn't have the shelf yet and I think she does have the display panel now, I
suggested that she stick it out the window or maybe she can put one nut on the left-most screw to hold it in place for now.
We need to see the display numbers to see what error she has on it.
Remember,  she HAD no display and we could NOT troubleshoot her machine.

Her reels were spinning before so I do NOT think it's a power issue at all.
She had the Seven System display and NOTHING worked on that thing.

I know you're new, but I wouldn't reccomend posting peoples emails in a thread.  It is just a question of edicate.  I also agree that you should get it working before buying the reel shelf.  You may find that it needs more parts, might as well ship them together.

Thanks,
Wayne

I'm wondering if this slot machine has one of these wire harnesses in it..... http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=14390.0 ? I've seen machines do strange things when this harness or its connectors have bad pins or wires grounding out. A lot of the time it's display problems due to a power issue caused by this little bugger.

Emelie's S+ has the older power supply that's located in the back center of the cabinet.
In earlier post's - it was explained to her how to check for burned out
ground pins on the Molex power connector on the motherboard.
Her display panel was the older display that's located in the Seven Systems DBV unit -
an entirely different animal that requires a separate circuit board that are connected via ribbon cables.
She has since gotten a newer unit but we haven't had any reports yet
as far as what numbers are being displayed upon it.
Without those numbers, whatever they may be - we are not able to help further...

Anything further on this, did she ever get it working?

Maybe she gave up. Or she is just busy with the holidays coming.

Always like to see a success story. You guys on here helped me so much to get my machines going.

Sorry I haven't been able to get on here for awhile.  I just want to say thanks to everyone for all the help you've given me but I've given up on the machine.  My husband said I can get a working one after tax time so YaY!  I'll see you all again then to show off what I got :)
Thanks again!
Em

Lucky you. I want a Money storm video slot but can't get one anywhere in the UK :-(

Em,
I'm really disappointed you kinda decided to throw this one away...it might have been a little more than you expected...
I have a suggestion that may help?
Do you think it might be a good idea for you fill out your profile a little better -
perhaps a member living nearby you might want to set up a convenient time with you to come over to your place
and get your machine up and running?

There's quite a few guys on NLG that can get your machine up and running the way you want in no time
if you'd let them know where you stay in your profile?

I realize it's a big state, but there's a start.

I do agree that it shouldn't take too much for an experienced S+ person to get your machine up and running.  Anyone in LA that might be near emelie?