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Author Topic: Need advice on a Triple Play machine Please!  (Read 119093 times)
stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #100 on: June 24, 2011, 04:27:23 PM »

A little history on that machine...
It was once on a now defunct cruise ship called "Sterling Casino Lines" operating out of Port Canaveral, Florida.
They had 4 small casinos on that ship and this machine was running in one of them.

Okay...back to the problem at hand, EXCELLENT pictures by the way!!!!  Clap
Turn the top back fuse knob on the panel where the cruise log book is sitting in - turn it counter-clock wise.
The fuse and fuse holder should pop out...this is an 6 Amp / 250 volt fuse...it is burned out.
This is why you don't have any lights on the display panel.
There should be lights on that panel even with the door open and the machine powered on.
There should be a "zero' lit up in the "Coins Played" window when the door is opened.


Take a look at that fuse and look closely inside the glass and see if the thin piece of metal inside
is separated at all or if the glass looks like there a little bit of black residue inside of it.

One way to test that fuse is to turn the power "Off", swap that fuse with the bottom one...
Leave the middle fuse alone! That one is an 8 Amp fuse!
Now, with both fuse in their sockets, turn on the power switch - if nothing happens...(no power, no 25 cent light) -
the bottom fuse you've swapped is burned out.

Go to your local hardware store or radio shack and ask for a couple of 6 AMP/250Volt bus fuses.
Ask for the "Quick-Blow" type and replace the ones you have.
When you install them and turn on the power switch - your display lights should come on.

Also, take a good look at those fuses...make sure they have the tiny writing on them showing you 8A/250V.
You may need real good glasses to see it! lol The writing is real tiny!

I forgot that your display is actually part of the bill acceptor on those particular S+'s.
The display's wires are part of a ribbon cable in the back of of the display under the bill stacker.
We will get to that later.

Please remove that paper logbook from the machine...it's a fire hazard.


* EM's fuse panel box.jpg (1184.23 KB, 3072x2304 - viewed 460 times.)
« Last Edit: June 24, 2011, 05:21:08 PM by stayouttadabunker » Logged
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« Reply #101 on: June 24, 2011, 05:01:12 PM »

Also, follow that video that I posted, insert a quarter or token sized like a quarter into the coin comparitor, looks like you had no coin in there
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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #102 on: June 24, 2011, 05:06:33 PM »

In the photo, there's NO  coin it the sample coin holder.
My question is the:

If there's no coin in there...how did the coin drop through?  Scratch Head 2
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« Reply #103 on: June 24, 2011, 05:16:31 PM »

A couple of minor things.  The first picture is as the others mentioned -- it's the coin comparator.  You must put a good sample coin (a nice clean quarter) in there.  This isn't going to solve all of your problems, but it's something that you must do in order for the machine to eventually work.

Second, very minor, a light bulb appears to have popped out of one of the buttons.  Re-connect the wire, and re-insert the socket into the button, giving it a quarter turn once it's in there to latch into place.

Click on the pictures to enlarge them.


* coin_comparator.PNG (1202.4 KB, 753x708 - viewed 450 times.)

* light_socket.PNG (1548.08 KB, 915x757 - viewed 479 times.)
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« Reply #104 on: June 24, 2011, 05:24:57 PM »

I should mention, too, there are some other issues with your machine right now.  We should be able to get them fixed, but the reels should spin up when you first apply power, with all three of them spinning and then coming to a stop one at a time.

We've been assuming that the board has software (all of the needed chips) on it.  That may not be the case.

With the hopper removed and the power off (in fact, as described below, please unplug the machine first), please remove the MPU board and take a picture of it.  The MPU board is located within the silver metal tray along the left side of the cabinet, next to where the hopper normally sits.  To remove it, lift straight up on the black knob -- it should move up about an inch or two.  At that point you should be able to tip it to the right and then remove the whole tray out of the machine.  Make a mental note of how it was removed, because that's how you're going to have to put it back in.

It's possible that the tray may be difficult to remove.  Don't be afraid to pound upwards on the black knob with your hand (or VERY gently with a rubber mallet, if necessary) to get it loose.

When you put it back into place, make sure it is firmly seated back into the fixed motherboard on the bottom of the machine (the MPU board plugs into the motherboard in order to work).  Also, again, make sure that the power is off when you insert or remove the MPU board (or when you do most any other stuff on the machine, as the power supply is exposed behind the hopper based on your pictures -- actually, it would be a good idea to unplug the machine when you're working on it so there's no danger of hands or parts making their way into the power supply which may have live current even when the switch is off).


* MPU.PNG (776.88 KB, 783x443 - viewed 422 times.)
« Last Edit: June 24, 2011, 05:30:12 PM by knagl » Logged

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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #105 on: June 24, 2011, 05:32:02 PM »

If you don't have a rubber mallet and the tray is stuck in there good - try wiggling the black knob on
the MPU tray back and forth towards the back and front of the machine while exerting force upwards.
It should come out as knagl described... yes

Here's a couple photos of the bill acceptor you have - with the lock removed...front and back of the display.

(*note* see the little white ribbon cable going down the left hand side of the display?
It goes down to another circuit board under the stacker box track.
There's three circuit boards in that thing!
It's far different from the newer S+'s that use a full length reel glass
with the long Tripps plastic display panel....
The unit then uses an entirely different harness that extends from
the back of the DBV/display unit out to the motherboard.
Also, the entire unit can be removed by undoing 4 nuts under the reel shelf,
reach in behind the DBV unit and pull out all the money the cruise ship left in it!...lol)

Click on any photo to enlarge>>>


* 1995 Sevens Systems bill acceptor and display panel 001.jpg (494.48 KB, 2576x1932 - viewed 450 times.)

* 1995 Sevens Systems bill acceptor and display panel 002.jpg (523.97 KB, 2576x1932 - viewed 426 times.)
« Last Edit: June 24, 2011, 05:39:11 PM by stayouttadabunker » Logged
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« Reply #106 on: June 24, 2011, 05:38:46 PM »

Got the coin comparator to work!  Didn't realize I had to keep it open with the coin in.  I had it closed with the quarter behind it.

OK so both fuses seem to look.  Nothing broken, no residue.  I switched the top and bottom ones, and the same 2 lights came on. 

One fuse says 250V Buss AGC 6A

The other says 6A 250V 312

Also, there's some wire in the door that's not plugged in.  Is that the one ya'll talking about that's supposed to be?  I didn't see a place to plug it in at

Em
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« Reply #107 on: June 24, 2011, 05:40:25 PM »

this is the wire that's not plugged in on the door.  Forgot to post it


* P1010001.JPG (1442.39 KB, 3072x2304 - viewed 523 times.)
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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #108 on: June 24, 2011, 05:44:58 PM »

That plug ( called a Molex connector plug) is not needed right now.
It's not very clear to me but it may also be for a multiple 3/5 or 9 line game kit credit shadow box ights that attach to the reel glass.

Now, what number are displayed on the "Coins Played " display while the door is open and then closed?
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« Reply #109 on: June 24, 2011, 05:45:28 PM »

OK trying to get the MPU tray out...

StayOut: How'd you get that Medeco lock out of the bill acceptor?  Did you drill it out?  I wonder if I call Medeco if they can let me buy some kind of master slot key or if they even have that?
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« Reply #110 on: June 24, 2011, 05:46:35 PM »

There's still no numbers coming up on the Coins played.
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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #111 on: June 24, 2011, 05:47:42 PM »

Make sure the power switch is off before trying to get the MPU out!!!

Don't bother Medeco...you don't have to open it right now.
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« Reply #112 on: June 24, 2011, 05:58:03 PM »

knagl, those pictures are priceless!  I'm one of those ppl who learn by seeing so it made it much easier, thanks Smiley

Oh, and there are actually 2 green boards on the tray.  One close to the door and one more to the back.
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« Reply #113 on: June 24, 2011, 06:00:37 PM »

Start snapping a few pictures of the boards Em...
We will let you know if it will work or not as soon as you post them up.
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« Reply #114 on: June 24, 2011, 06:05:47 PM »

Ok I can't get them out. We'll have to wait till 5 (central time) for my husband to wake up for work. I'll ask him to try
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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #115 on: June 24, 2011, 06:07:59 PM »

I'll be golfing but many others are watching this thread and will be able to help you with ANY questions you may have!  yes
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« Reply #116 on: June 24, 2011, 06:13:20 PM »

Alright well thanks for all your help so far and have fun golfing!!! Smiley
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« Reply #117 on: June 24, 2011, 06:23:06 PM »

Ok I can't get them out. We'll have to wait till 5 (central time) for my husband to wake up for work. I'll ask him to try
[/quote]



ยซ Reply #105 on: Today at 02:32:02 PM ยป   

"If you don't have a rubber mallet and the tray is stuck in there good - try wiggling the black knob on
the MPU tray back and forth towards the back and front of the machine while exerting force upwards.
It should come out as knagl described... "



I have to use two hands on the knob to wiggle it back and forth and lift real hard on mine.

Ron (r273)



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« Reply #118 on: June 24, 2011, 07:19:44 PM »

Very Good Pictures.  Clap Clap Clap
Those are the kind we like to see.

Before you apply power again, I noticed a few things in your pictures.
You have some coins stuck in places in the back of the machine. While this is normally a good thing to gave spare change laying around, It a bad thing when it comes to slot machines. Coins are metallic and conduct electricity. If they get stuck in bad places they can short out components.
See the attached pictures, where I circled in red two coins that are stuck in the back of your machine. If you have two, I can guarantee you have more. The worst place to get a coin stuck is under the Motherboard. I drew a line where there is a gap between the mother board where coins get stuck. You need to check all these areas for coins before applying power again.

First you need to get that MPU out as everyone has suggested, then keep posting pictures as you go.
Your doing good.


* Stuck coins.JPG (1084.82 KB, 1200x900 - viewed 506 times.)

* mpu.JPG (1058.32 KB, 1200x900 - viewed 496 times.)
« Last Edit: June 24, 2011, 07:25:58 PM by Neonkiss » Logged

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« Reply #119 on: June 24, 2011, 07:21:18 PM »

OK got it out!  Here are the pics.  I can't figure out how to take pics without that flash showing up.

First pic is the whole board and then I took some close ups of each corner.



* MPU.JPG (1528.15 KB, 3072x2304 - viewed 468 times.)

* MPU2.JPG (1423.19 KB, 3072x2304 - viewed 460 times.)
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« Reply #120 on: June 24, 2011, 07:23:06 PM »

more


* MPU3.JPG (1479.4 KB, 3072x2304 - viewed 447 times.)

* MPU4.JPG (1505.62 KB, 3072x2304 - viewed 433 times.)
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« Reply #121 on: June 24, 2011, 07:24:22 PM »

last one

If ya'll need me to try to do them better just tell me.  Won't hurt my feelings or anything Smiley
Em


* MPU5.JPG (1462.53 KB, 3072x2304 - viewed 427 times.)
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« Reply #122 on: June 24, 2011, 07:27:10 PM »

I wonder if I call Medeco if they can let me buy some kind of master slot key or if they even have that?

 rotflmao  rotflmao  rotflmao

Sorry, I know it's an innocent question, but the icon above is what they'll do right before they hang up the phone on you.  Medeco is known for some of the highest security standards.  Even a legitimate locksmith won't go anywhere near that lock without documentation that you're the registered owner of it, despite you having possession of it.

As Bunker mentioned, don't worry about that lock for now -- it's not needed to get the machine working.



Okay, good news on your board pictures -- the chips that you need to operate the machine are still in there!  (They're the GAME and REEL chips under that red tape.)

Before you put the MPU board back in place, please do as Neonkiss suggested a few posts earlier, and WITH THE POWER UNPLUGGED, remove the stray coins that are still in the machine.  Be sure to check as best as you can under the motherboard (where he underlined in red in the second picture in his post) for coins there, as those can really cause a problem -- perhaps even tilt the machine on its side a little (careful, it's heavy, and the door may try and slam shut on your fingers) to try and free any potential stuck coins.

Oh, also, for your future knowledge, take a look at the MPU board and notice the blue knob at the top of the board that slightly sticks out through the metal tray.  That is the volume control for your machine.  You'll likely want to adjust that in the future once we get your machine up and running.  For now, rotate it gently and you'll feel it won't spin a full 360 degrees -- there are stops at the loudest and quietest (off) settings.  For now, rotate the knob so that it's in the middle of each extreme (a "medium" volume).
« Last Edit: June 24, 2011, 07:36:32 PM by knagl » Logged

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« Reply #123 on: June 24, 2011, 07:30:40 PM »

Board looks clean, with no corrosion. At least you have software installed.
Sometimes after a machine has been sitting for six years the battery leaks and ruins the board.

Take some pictures of where this board came out from. Let's see if you have some coins stuck in there?
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« Reply #124 on: June 24, 2011, 07:41:09 PM »

Wow, I can't believe I missed those two quarters, thanks!  I looked all around with a flashlight and I don't see anymore so hopefully that's it.
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