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Author Topic: Need advice on a Triple Play machine Please!  (Read 118706 times)
emelie
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« on: June 20, 2011, 03:52:10 PM »

Hi!  I'm a 28yo female and not at all familiar with slot machines besides the fact that I've been wanting one since I first played at a casino.  Last night my uncle gave me a Triple Play machine he got out of a casino they were shutting down.  He got 5 all together and he's guessing they gave it to him cause it didn't work but he's not sure.  Anyways, I thought I'd just plug it in and be able to play it right then and there but when it came to my house, it's not a plug in sticking out of the back.  It's all these wires that have been cut.  Anyways, my question is since I don't have keys or anything, do ya'll think it would be worth it to hire a locksmith to come and make a key and then see if an electrician can put a regular plug and then see if it works/or if he can fix it?
Sorry if I sound dingy but I really know nothing about this stuff and you guys seem like experts!
Thanks in advance Smiley
Emelie

P.S. I'm gonna try adding pics of the machine and the wires


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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #1 on: June 20, 2011, 04:03:41 PM »

Okay...wow! You do need help!
First of all...try filling out your profile with a little more info ...especially your location.
Hopefully one of our members lives nearby ya so they can help you get that lock apart!!! 
You HAVE to get inside the machine.  propeller
Unfortunately that particular model did not have a belly door that pops open.

The power cord will be the largest, roundest black cord coming out of  the hole on the back, bottom of the machine.  Sherlock Smiley
It's the same power cords as heavy duty cords that look like computer desktop cords but a little heavier gauged wire inside.

Electricians will not know or may not know anything about these machines.  arrow
They deal with house wiring really.
You have an S+ that was made in the late 80's or early 90's.
It was upgraded with a "1995 Sevens Systems" reel glass bill validator but it's a bill acceptor unit
that, I'm afraid,  is not supported by any companies anymore.
You may need to get the coin unit working in order to play it.
I wish we knew what is inside of your machine.
We will have to wait until you get the lock opened.

A local NLG member will be able to help you best with your machine!  yes
Would you uncle have any keys that might fit?
Not knowing if you live in a legal state for slot ownership or not -
I don't know if it would be a good thing to call a locksmith just yet.
« Last Edit: June 20, 2011, 04:17:43 PM by stayouttadabunker » Logged
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« Reply #2 on: June 20, 2011, 05:07:48 PM »

Legal states are OH, TX,MN,AZ,WV,VA,ME,RI,UT,AR,AK,KY,NM
Illegal states are SC,CT,AL,HI,IN,NE,TN,WI
Restricted states are the rest not mentioned above (age restriction mostly)

LA and CA have the worst restrictions/most enforcement

The rest I just don't know.

Bunker, are you sure that's not an "S"?
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« Reply #3 on: June 20, 2011, 05:19:14 PM »

I don't think "S" machines supported dollar bill validators, but I could be mistaken.  I suspect it's a very early S+ as well.

I agree with what has been posted -- you need to get into the machine to have any hope of getting it working.  On the plus side, you won't need an electrician -- you'll likely just need a standard computer-style power cable to plug between the wall and the machine's power supply.  Once you get access to the inside of the machine, be sure to check EVERYWHERE for stray coins, screws, nuts, etc. before you apply power.  If there are stray metal bits floating around in there, they could cause shorts in the circuit boards if they're in place when power is applied.

Step one is to get inside the machine.  Can you post a good picture of the lock on the side of the machine (it should be on the right side of the machine, at about the same level as the black sticker that says "Machine accepts $1 through $100 bills")?  We can determine from that if it's a lock that might be easy to drill out, or if it's a high security lock from the casino.

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« Reply #4 on: June 20, 2011, 05:32:06 PM »

I love lox but hate locks.

A lock is good if you don't want guests/kids fiddling around in the machine.

I don't know how to remove a high security lock so I defer to the experts here LOL

The cashbox might even have some $$$ in it (happens)
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« Reply #5 on: June 20, 2011, 06:16:08 PM »

Even high security locks come out easy with a 1/16" drill bit. Just drill each of the 8 or so brass pins, takes around 10 to 15 minutes average
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« Reply #6 on: June 20, 2011, 06:37:38 PM »

...Bunker, are you sure that's not an "S"?

...I suspect it's a very early S+ as well.

There are half a dozen of those old early S+'s on the floor here at work.
They have no belly doors and use those old "Sevens Systems" acceptors behind the reel glass
on the right-hand side on a big ugly ramp-like reel shelf...
That bill acceptor unit is huge, heavy like about 15lbs to 20lbs! lol
Also, the power supply is located in the back-center of the machine with the motherboard
and MPU located on the left-hand side of the cabinet.
Finally, the plastic drop hole is located way on the far right-hand side of the cabinet floor.
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« Reply #7 on: June 20, 2011, 07:49:18 PM »

I guess coin in and out is the best option for her rather than getting that bill acceptor working. Even if she got a WBA it may not be able to be used because of the early model of the slot. The power cord needs to be replaced for sure. It needs a very good cleaning, be prepared to get down and dirty because it will be really dirty and you will be pulling lots of tar and dirt off the surface and the inside.
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« Reply #8 on: June 20, 2011, 08:18:50 PM »

Thanks for all ya'll help so far!  I just filled out my profile and I'm in Cut Off, LA.  Hopefully someone from here is near me!  I'd gladly pay someone to do this for me lol seriously tho I would!  There's two black cords coming out the back.  Where it's cut, it looks like they both have 3 tiny wires inside the black casing.  StayOut, it does say "1995 Sevens Systems" where you put the bill in.

Knagle: There's actually two locks on the machine.  One on the side and another farther back on the side.  They look to be the same style, but I'll take a picture of both of them to attach here.  The first one is on the side of where you put the bills in.  The second one is lower but on the same side near the bottom of the machine.

Reho33: I know what you mean about locks and kids.  My two toddlers have been trying to play the machine all day!


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« Reply #9 on: June 20, 2011, 08:21:35 PM »

First pic is door lock. 2nd is for reset. DO NOT drill 2nd one.
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« Reply #10 on: June 20, 2011, 08:28:08 PM »

Oops, there's actually 3 locks great lol!  It's on the left side of where it says "Coins Played".  The name on the lock is Medeco.

I'm prepared to get down and dirty!!!  I just have to figure out how to work a drill lol.  Gonna see if I can call someone to come do it.  NOT the 2nd one tho!

Thanks again Hail



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« Reply #11 on: June 20, 2011, 08:36:49 PM »

If her validator still works, she could still push $1 bills through it all day long couldn't she? Actually, anything BUT newer bills. Just saying it's not useless and really doesn't need to be removed unless it's broken
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« Reply #12 on: June 20, 2011, 08:44:25 PM »

If the bill thing doesn't work it's not a big deal.  I like to hear the money falling down into the tray! 

Sorry about posting the same pic twice last time, don't know how to delete it.  So I think I found someone to come over to drill the first lock.  Should we drill the 3rd one too?
Emelie
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« Reply #13 on: June 20, 2011, 08:53:45 PM »

Third one's probably not necessary unless the bv doesn't work. If you have someone coming over to drill the one, you might do it just to save him another trip though, you'll want to get in there eventually
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« Reply #14 on: June 20, 2011, 09:05:29 PM »

Gotcha, thanks Cowboy!

He's coming over tonight so I'll post a pic of what the inside looks like tomorrow Smiley
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« Reply #15 on: June 20, 2011, 09:05:46 PM »

You might be able to disassemble the bill validator from the inside out once you have the door lock drilled out, so I wouldn't go and try and drill out the third (Medeco) lock yet.  Those are high security locks, the proximity to the reel glass is a little too close for comfort, and it certainly isn't necessary immediately to get the machine working. 

I'd worry about the door lock (the first picture -- the one above the sliding metal lever with the broken white label that runs through it) first, and only that one for now -- that's my $0.02.
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« Reply #16 on: June 20, 2011, 09:19:06 PM »

Here is another tip: make sure that whatever you place that slot machine on, that the machine is secure. If your children pull the handle hard enough, it may slide off and fall causing injury. Some machines have holes in the bottom for lag bolts to attach the slot to the stand so it won't fall. See if you can get a genuine stand from the same place that the slot came from. Yes, with children about you might want new locks and keys to keep them out. Also, you might want to consider running it on tokens as real quarters might "disappear" over time with laundry, candy,etc. You can get 1000 tokens quarter sized for about 60-80 dollars. 1000 quarters will cost 250.00 so consider it.
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« Reply #17 on: June 20, 2011, 09:44:59 PM »

Those locks are hard to drill since they are Medeco Locks
Medeco puts hardened pins in face of the lock to make it hard to drill.

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« Reply #18 on: June 20, 2011, 09:55:18 PM »

Nothing a well placed M-80 can't fix LOL
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« Reply #19 on: June 20, 2011, 10:10:53 PM »

I gave to agree about the Medeco lock. It will be harder to drill, you'll risk breaking the glass in the process, and you might be able to disassemble the lock from the inside without violence. arrow Tongue Out


If the bill thing doesn't work it's not a big deal.  I like to hear the money falling down into the tray! 
...

The purpose of the bill validator is to add lots of credits at one time so you don't have to keep feeding it coins for every spin. You'll come to appreciate it if it turns out to be useable. Cashing out the credits would still drop coins to the tray, so you wouldn't be giving that up.



...
Sorry about posting the same pic twice last time, don't know how to delete it.  So I think I found someone to come over to drill the first lock.  Should we drill the 3rd one too?
Emelie

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« Reply #20 on: June 20, 2011, 11:03:55 PM »

Have we even determined that the lock is locked? I did not see anywhere where she tried to lift the lever below the lock.
The cam might not even be installed on the lock.
I know this is the obvious, but it might be worth a try before drilling.
I always say, try before you pry.  Silly Me!
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« Reply #21 on: June 20, 2011, 11:34:54 PM »

I tried lifting that lever thing but it wouldn't budge.  I was wondering what that even there for anyways
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« Reply #22 on: June 21, 2011, 12:15:56 AM »

I tried lifting that lever thing but it wouldn't budge.  I was wondering what that even there for anyways

OK, Drill baby Drill.....
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« Reply #23 on: June 21, 2011, 12:32:38 AM »

I tried lifting that lever thing but it wouldn't budge.  I was wondering what that even there for anyways

That's how you open the door.   yes  With the lock unlocked (or removed), lift straight up on the lever, then the door opens out towards you.

Even if it's locked there should be a tiny bit of play in the lever (not much, mind you, but a tiny bit).  If it's not moving at all, try a gentle tap upwards with a hammer to see if it's just "frozen" in place.  If there is a tiny bit of play, but it's hitting another piece of metal, then you'll need to drill out that lock.
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« Reply #24 on: June 21, 2011, 12:38:00 AM »

Get the power vac ready too!  rotflmao
There's gonna be anything from a rat's nest to minutiae skeletons in there!
It's amazing how many little critters get into the hole where the cords exit the machine when sitting for awhile!

Your "well" driller needs to be very careful he doesn't bust a drill bit and scrape the heck out of the laminate.
He needs to go real slow and let the bit do it's job!

Were you able to find a computer cord?
You'll need that to power it up.
There will be a plug going into the side rail on the right just about a little off-center on the floor.
You will see where your new plug will need to go - it will be the "fattest" one...

The other wires are for casino book accounting and security purposes.
Those will not be needed at home.

We would like to see a couple of pictures of where those other wires are hooked
up to inside the machine when you get the door opened.
From there we will be able to tell you which wires to unplug and how.

So...is the husky fella with the industrial drill there yet?   bust gut laughing
« Last Edit: June 21, 2011, 12:43:31 AM by stayouttadabunker » Logged
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