New Life Games Tech Forums

Hello All,
As mentioned in the Welcome Wagon, I'm new. I bought a 1996 slant top from a neighbor that has some issues, burned MPU board, broken award display glass, broken buttons, and dirty. The board was burned through in an attempt to change a chip. I would like to convert it to a new game anyway. Currently a triple triple diamond. Below are my unit's specifics:

Model: GC36CFI
MFG: 3/96
MPU Board: 75505704 Rev B 1096 GTC 10mhz

Will a different MPU board work in this unit or are they model specific? Is there somewhere to send it out for examination and repair? I can't seem to locate one on the web. Also, do conversion kits come with new MPU boards and game chip? I've always wanted my own game and now I got one. Hopefully I'll be able to play it some time soon.

Thanks in advance.

Your boards for S+ machines are some what universal.  The dilemma you will face is your game prom and/or reel prom chips.  These S+ CPU's are pretty durable, your main issues on a slant top are going to be your door optics, I have handled some sit down units with 4 door optics and they can be deceiving.  What game is it that you would like for it to be?  I would be happy to test your board for you.
Good Luck,
Chad

Pictures of what you have always helps for identification.

Typically all you need for a game change are the reel and game chip (maybe not a game chip if it's the same type)
Reel strips and glass.
SET chip to enable BV

Oddly there is only one S+ MPU on eBay right now. Usually there are several. You should be able to find one for <$30 shipped.

Quick update:

I foung a new mpu board and new buttons from one of the fine vendors listed on this site. I'll stick with this game for the time being. Just have to find the glass. I guessing there isn't too many available.

http://cgi.ebay.com/TRIPLE-DIAMOND-3-COIN-IGT-SLANT-TOP-SLOT-GLASS-/370391147479 (http://cgi.ebay.com/TRIPLE-DIAMOND-3-COIN-IGT-SLANT-TOP-SLOT-GLASS-/370391147479)

If you kept it a Triple Triple Diamond I have that Award Glass as well as the Regular Triple Diamond, hell almost all Slant Top Award Glass (for Slants with Factory BV in Top Box)

Holy crap! Hook me up. I'd love to keep it triplle triple.
This is the last part I need. If you're willing to let it go, how would you like to handle the details?

Is it a 2 or 3 Coin Trip. Trip Dia? PM sent

2 coin trip trip diamond.

Oops, I didn't see that it was a triple triple.  :25-

I've never been in such a helpful forum. Thanks everyone.

Its a Great Forum full of GREAT members!  Unlike other national forums I belong to, that will remain unnamed.... Did I mention I collect pinball and arcade games..hint hint...

Alright folks,

My machine is strickly home use
I got my MPU board in for my 1996 IGT S+ slant top (2 quarter triple triple diamond) and swapped out all 6 chips form the old board to the new board. Both boards are 10mhz boards and looked identical. the dip switches are set as they were on the old board.
Old Board P/N: 75505704 Rev B 1096 GTC
New Board P/N: 75505704 Rev B 2496 GTC
The dip switches are set as follows:
1-off, 2- on, 3-on, 4 thru 8 are off.

Its time to fire it off. I plugged it in and immediately got the 61 error code. From there I'm stuck as what to do next. I tried to follow the typical home settings for the SP1271 family of S+ game chips but I have no idea whether or not this procedure even applies. I can't get rid of the 61 code unless i start pushing buttons and turning the key. Please note that I do have a bill validator and I can hear it firing off when I power up. Thats good I'm assuming.

Anyways, if there is a procedure a rookie can follow to get this beast up and running, I would greatly appreciate the help. Please comment on the position of the dip switches as well. I'm sure the position of those are AFU too.

 

For the error, see this

http://www.newlifegames.net/igterrors/ (http://www.newlifegames.net/igterrors/)

The SP1271 does not use the dip switches, so it doesn't matter what position they are in.

61 is a very common error.  Use the chart that poppo linked to and you should be good to go -- let us know if you can't get past the 61 error.

No joy guys, depressing test for two to three seconds didn't do anything to clear the 61 error. It just comes back. Is there anything else I can try before my clear and set chip comes in the mail?

Do you have a different game chip (totally different SP)? Sometimes changing the game chip temporarily will get you out of the 61 loop.

And are you sure your door optics are ok?

Just the one that can with the game. Since I'm just starting out, I don't have anything yet. 

How are your soldering skills?

I've removed a chip from a tv set and soldered in a new one without any issues. I bet I could take on a challenging task. What's up your sleeve?

You could unsolder (one leg) the battery, then resolder it.  I'd honestly just wait for your clear chip as you may well wind up needing it anyway to get out of the 61 loop, but if you're bored...

To be clear, before you break out the soldering iron, is the 61 vanishing from the display after you press the button, then re-appearing a second or two later?

How would that help any more than just pulling the CMOS (static RAM) chip? :103-

Please - no offense intended, but wouldn't Poppo's comment be doing the same thing as pulling the battery?

To answer your question: Yes, when depressing the test button the 61 error code goes away but returns shortly after release or if help longer, it comes back.

I trust Poppo's opinion and do think he may be right.
I wanted you to unsolder the battery like knagl said, but there's a little trick that sometimes works.

Pull out the CMOS chip and rub all the legs on something metal like a butter knife - trying to ground out the legs.
That sometimes screws up the data in the CMOS just enough
so that when you re-installed it - the machine is forced to re-write the CMOS data.

Now that's something I can handle. I'll try that as soon as I get home from work. Thx

This is another 'myth'. Once you pull the CMOS, it will lose it's memory. Unless the chip has it's own built in backup, grounding the legs really does nothing. Of course it won't hurt anything either. But if it appears to work, it is only coincidence.

Now that said, I do recall seeing some odd looking CMOS chips on some S+ boards. Typically the CMOS will be a 6264 static ram that has zero retention after losing backup power. But some CMOS chips looked like they had some sort of case over them that 'might' house some sort of secondary backup capacitor or something. I don't have any of those left, so I can't pull it apart to see.

The replacement board I got had a cap (as you describe) over the CMOS chip. I did replace the cap and chip with the one in my old board. Should I swap them back and give it a try?

It can't hurt.

Now what happens is data is normally stored in the CMOS. Every so often that data is copied to the EEPROM located on the mother board (the board that the MPU plugs into). When you power up the machine, the data is compared between the two. If it does not match you will get a 61 error meaning the CMOS did not match the EEPROM. Normally this is cleared by pressing the self test button to get 61_1 which re-copies the date from the EEPROM to the CMOS. The 61_1 is then cleared by closing the door and turning the reset key.

Now sometimes people get stuck in a 61 loop. Using a clear chip will erase the EEPROM and CMOS and fix the problem. Sometimes changing game chips (which also causes at least a partial EEPROM re-write) can also fix it. Pulling the CMOS 'might' fix it if the data was corrupt in some way that clearing the 61 normally does not fix.

Good deal, like I said before, I swapped all 6 chips from old to new board. I'm guessing I didn't have to. I'll do as you recommended when I get home. Thx

Sometimes these CMOS chips have a black plastic casing/cover that goes over the chip.
That's exactly what it is - a cover. It's nothing else really.
So yes, this may be a "myth"...lol
But one thing for sure - it doesn't hurt to try because I have heard from reputable members that this DOES work!
I must admit though - I've tried the "butter knife" trick myself and haven't had any success with it really.

When stuck in the [61] "loop" - the only way out is to clear both chips at the same time
( the CMOS U51 or U56 chip depending on MPU board version & the motherboard's 8-pin 24C04 chip)
- utilizing a clear chip.

OMG Did I actually say "Use a Clear chip?!?!?"  :5-

I hope I don't get hammered by Blueridge for suggesting this!  :72-

Well, that answers that. Although I wonder what the purpose of it is.  :103-


It may work, but I'm sure it would work just as well if the chip is just pulled and plugged back in. It's sort of like saying that you need to unscrew a light bulb and then short out the contacts to make it stop glowing.  :96-

lol...I understand but you HAVE to use the butterknife! Nothing else will work!!  :200- :96- :72- :97-  just kidding...!!

Yep. It needs the smooth surface for those pesky electrons to slide off.  :96-

I have had that problem with the slnt tops before and it was the motherboard, that little chip go out on them and will not allow you to cllear a 61 code.

Darell, do you mean that the EEPROM chip physically/electrically fails?  I think members have posted of that happening, but not very often. :103-  I would try a full clear before replacing the EEPROM, but I've been wrong before.



GSD Dan, you were right that you didn't need to swap all six chips -- just the two labeled ones (Game and Reel).

I just tried swaping the CMOS chip and I was able to get the error code 61-1 (twice). But when I closed the door (snugly I might add) and turned the key, I got a blank pad then the 61 came back. So at least its spit'n and sputter'n. I'm hoping my set and clear chips come in tomorrow. If so, can I assume that:
1) I woulld power down and unplug the machine
2) insert clear chip into the CMOS slot
3) re-insert the board
4) plug in and power up the machine
5) depress the the test button
6) power down and unplug machine
7) Reinstall old CMOS Chip
8) then bring her back to life for another round of fun

Am I close? I'm of the understanding that everything including the BV will have to be reset for home use using Statfreak's procedure for the "SP1271 family set of game chips" or is there some other procedure I should be following?

Have to ask - are you latching the door too?  The optics need to line up, and that only happens if the latch is all the way down.

I'm absolutely sure, it seats perfectly and tight. Now for the optics, I looked at both the door and base unit and they look clean and nothing out of the ordinary.

Dont forget, I bought unit after the old owner had it sitting in his garage broken for few months. He told me the board was bad evident by the burn through he made by trying to unsolder a chip. So I could have other issues as well.

You were close! I made a few small corrections to your list. The CMOS chip never needs to be removed for any "official" operation. Pulling it to clear the memory is definitely not an official operation per IGT. lol. :97- :97- :97-

BTW, if you end up having to clear the machine, you will also need the SET chip to re-enable the DBV, and that will also go into the Game chip slot.

Don't forget to check that the notch on the chips always matches the notch on the socket. Even seasoned veterans have made that mistake once or twice. You don't want to let out the magic smoke. :98-

Stat :31-

Well how about that, even a broken clock is right twice a day. Thank you for the corrections. I did second check the notches on the chips as compared to the chip holders - they're instralled correctly. I totally understand about letting out the blue smoke, thats the pissed-off geni comeing out to reeks havoc.

A visual inspection wouldn't necessarily reveal a problem, but if the 61-1 code disappeared after you turned the key, and then came back as a 61, you're door optics are working.

Note:

The Game chip is the firmware program that actually runs the slot machine.
The Reel chip is a data chip that contains the virtual strip information, the VS mapping to the physical strips, and the pay table combos and amounts data for a particular game, as well as any other game-specific data necessary.

When you insert a clear or set chip into the game chip slot, it's just like running a different program on your PC, only in this case you have to physically install the new program, mostly because they had such little space available on these chips when the S+ was made.

By contrast, an S2000 key chip does as its name suggests: it only triggers a flag(s) that temporarily unlocks certain setting options that are already built into the code on the game chips, because there was/is plenty of room on the game chips for all of the code.

Stat :31-

Bad door optics can cause a lot of grief since you won't be able to clear the errors if they aren't working.

Guys,
i have had every problem with the splus slants and uprights.
1. did you slide the latch on the bottom door over after you re installed the bottom door.
2. if everything else fails like has been spoken in this thread it is the motherboard. Their is a small chip ( sometimes removable most times not)  that goes out and when you cannot clear a 61 code that usually is the problem.

Slots4home, your just full of good news. I considered that after some reading. I'm hoping that the clear chip does the deed. If not, I'll be pulling that board out as well. Hopefully if it is the motherboard, the chip will be easy to locate and replace.

Thanks for the heads up.

It's probably soldered in, but it's only a 8 pin DIP. Best to put a socket in if you have to pull it. If it comes down to that, I have spare chips and can send you one.

Or if you are feeling adventurous, you can do this mod.
http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=10615.0 (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=10615.0)

It is the only chip on the motherboard. The clear should take care of the problem, but if you do end up removing it, I would suggest installing a socket. If you don't want to bother, you can just replace the entire motherboard instead. They're not expensive.

Odds are much greater of the data simply being corrupted than the odds of the chip being bad, so don't panic yet.

<EDIT> Poppo beat me to it! :5-

I will donate one ( just pay shipping) if you need one.

Oh yea, I can do this. I hope I don't havwe to though. I like the socket that poppo brought up. I do like that way of fixing the board just in case I have to swap it again.

Slots4home, you have made me a offer I cannot refuse. I'd still like to contribute in some way + shipping. Just a my way of showing appreciation. Lets hope I don't have to go that route.

thx

Dan,
If you need a socket and 24C40 chip...
PM your address and I will send you a set for your motherboard okay?
Or, I'll solder one up for you and we'll just trade motherboards!

Shipping should be about 7.00 usps priority.
I will send you a pm.
Darell

Yea ! Yea! Yea! The machine is up running like a raped ape. I alreadt went thru about 60 spins without a hiccup. The bill validator wouldn't take a bill, but that's for another day. I got my clear and set chip in the mail today and I cleared the ram only. I'd like to take a moment out to thank you all. This forum is as professiona and friendly as it gets.

Thanks!

Glad you got it working.  :3- Enabling the BV is easy. Don't forget to set the denomination. And you will get the 61 again when you do that, but it should clear fine now.

I am glad that everyone here was able to help get you up and running!

Good Job folks! Karma Storm is a coming!!  :50- :259- :50-

CaptainHappy :95-

OK All,
I'm back into this Triple Triple Diamond machine slant top. My mission now is to set up the bill validator to operate so that I don't have to keep opening the machine for quarters. Below is some data to help you point me in the right direction:

I have:
Set chip 90
Reel Chip: MECH SS6767, 08/210/95 (1-64), 1995 IGT L95-1881
Game Chip B9536YX, NM27C512Q, 120
Dip Switches are set to #3 on, rest are off.

I did put the set chip in the "Game" chip slot and got a 65-4 Advisory Message.

My bill validator lights up and make start up noises but won't suck in a bill.

Is this a SP1271 Machine?

Thanks in advance.

 

You posted the information about the physical chip design (printed on the chip by the manufacturers. We need the SP number, which should be on a sticker on top of the chip.

If it's not, you can get it by going into the test menu. With the machine in idle mode, open the door and press the white test button until you see a "4" in the coins played window. This might typically take 8 presses of the button.

The winner paid/credits windows should alternate between flashing the SP and SS numbers. Since you know that you have an SS6767, it will be the other number. :5- (probably between 0500 and 1400, and most likely 0731, 1271, or a number in the 700-800 or 1100-1300 range)


I'm not sure what a 65-4 error is, but if I had to guess, it means that the SET chip is incompatible with your SP chip -- meaning that you don't have an SP1271, but more likely an older SP chip, such as the SP0731.

Also, the NM27C512Q is listed as a UV erasable EPROM.

That means two things. First, that it's a copy, and not an original IGT chip (which is just fine), and second, that since you were able to read the chip maker's data, I can surmise that it probably doesn't have a sticker on it. You should put a sticker on it to cover the window to protect the chip from accidental erasure or data corruption.


Stat :31-

Thanks for your inputs. You are right, the chip didn't have have a sticker. I was able to determine that its a 0731 by following the directions above. I assume I need a different set chip for this game. I also pulled out my BV and it has two broken teeth, 180 out from each other. Its a dvb-200-B023. I'm going to order another and come back. I'll get the info you ask for. Just gimme a couple of days for the new one to come in. No sense in wasteing you time if I can't get past a broken BV, right?

Thanks

I'm back! New BV transport and Set chip 015 (thanks SAMRON). I expect to be successful enabling the BV. If not, you'll certainly hear from me again.

Can ANYONE provide me the typical home settings for my machine. The game is a triple triple diamond SS6767 SP 0731. I thought I was doing well until I hit a 360 coin spin and the unit went into jackpot mode and locked up (light flashing and an annoying beep). No credits were given for the win. I was able to clear the using the jackpot key and resume playing without the fresh credits. Now, I have the dip switches all off except #3 is on to limit hopper payout to 300. I suspect these dip switches are not set appropriately for home use. I'm betting the other settings as well are way off.

I'd like the machine to limit hopper payout to 300 to preserve the coins but would like the earned credits to rack up as they are won.

Thanks in advance.

Do you have the PSR sheet for your SP731 chip?  If not, I'll be happy to send it to you.  The PSR sheet explains the different settings available.

Unfortunately, the 731 does not support separate credit and hopper limits.  You can increase your hopper limit to a custom amount within the self test setup pages, but you cannot have the game rack up wins greater than the hopper limit and not hit a handpay.

You may wish to consider setting the limit to something like 500 so that if you hit Triple-7-7 (for 360 coins) it won't lock up unless you have more than 140 coins on the credit meter at the time.

Something to consider, too, would be to get a newer SP chip which allows separate credit and hopper limits.  Then, you could set your hopper limit to 40 coins (or whatever you wanted), and your credit limit to 1000 or so.  Then, all wins would go to the credit meter with the exception of Triple-Triple-7 and Triple-Triple-Triple wins.  (Or, you could set the credit limit to 9999 and all wins except the top award would go to the meter.)

Thankyou, I do have the PSR sheets for this chip and about ready to start the programming. I have changed my dip switches to #1, #2, #3 to the ON position and 4-8 are off.  I'll just set the hopper and credit to the max limit and stock up on coins I guess. I'm also going to activate the DBV.

I'll be back to let you know how it went.

OK, I'm not getting it. I have the Set 15 instructions and followed them to a Tee.
Insert set 15 in the game slot, re-insert mpu and turn the machine on.
"0" display, push white button, display  9_0, push spin reels, display 9_1, I set denom to 25, push white button, display 0.

Turn machine off, swap Set with Game chip. Cleared the 61 codes then played. I inserted coins and the machine worked. I tried to put a bill into the lit dbv and nothing. As before, it wouldn't even recognize that a bill was ready for validation.

Now, I'm assuming I only set the denom for the machine and didn't actually enable the bill validator or did I? I have the PSR for 0731 and not to sound like an idiot or anything, but the procedure to set up this machine simply weren't clear enough for this nub, nube, or ROCK (at this point- what ever term you choose).

If the DBV is lit up (green lights at entry) is it enabled?

You did the set proceedure correctly.

What model of DBV is it? If the entry is lit, it should be enabled.

Does it take a bill and spit it out or does it not take a bill at all?

Depending on the DBV model, there may be dip switches on the BV that may need to be changed.

Thanks for getting back. It does not take the bill at all. Its a DBV 200-B023. I pulled the side screws out and popped up optics and cleaned them with a warm soft cloth and tried it again. Maybe the whole unit is bad? The previous owner said it worked intermittedly.

First try flipping dip swith #10 on the bottom of the BV head the other way (power down first). If that does not work, put it back, and do the test described below. Read the directions carefully.

Note: all switches should normally be off with the exception of #10. It may be on or off depending on your ID.

Quick Questions:

I looked at the positions of the dip switches and ALL were in the off positon. Is that the correct configuration? I did as you asked by setting DS #10 (bank 1) to "ON" and there was no change - still wouldn't take a bill. I'm going to perform the test you provided when I get home tonight.

After each step working the "Test", do I have to reassemble the unit and reinstall it back into the machine or can I test this outside the machine?
Thanks

Yes, normaly. Sometimes #10 is on for some IDs which is why we always suggest to try flipping it.


Just remove the one center screw holding the head in place. Flip 1 & 6 on the second bank on. Power up the machine. With power applied, flip #6 off. The head should cycle. You can then just hold the head in place or put the one screw back in. It should accept a bill.

ok! it took the bill! currently all dip switches are off except bank 2 switch #1 which is on. It took the bill but did not give me any credits for it. Remember I did the set 15 procedure outlined above.

What's next?

Opps powered down then powered up and now nothing again. what did i miss?

That is all it was supposed to do. it just tests the head for operation.

You would have to flip #6 on again. But that's ok. just flip them all back off. All we needed to see is if the head was working, which it is.  

However since it won't even try to take a bill, something else is wrong. You might run the set chip again. If you pressed the self test too many times with the set, the denomination does not always 'stick' and it will reset to 0 if you get back to the start of the set menu. You can try verifying the denomination in the normal self test mode, or just run the set chip again. If you do the set again, just press the self test one time after setting the denomination and then power it down.

I'm sorry, let's step back to this.  What "green lights" are you talking about?  Is the front faceplate bezel (it's likely either red or yellow and says something like, "Insert bills $1 to $100") lighting up after the machine goes through its power on routine? 

Is there a cash can stacker box firmly inserted inside the access door?

Is the access door to the cash can firmly closed?

I wondered about that too, which is why I asked what model it was. Then I assumed maybe he had a sentry bezel when he said it was a DBV-200.

On my machine, the insert bill faceplate looks green but I may be color blind. When I look in the bill slot, I can see green bars - if that makes sense. They're lit up. When I power the unit up. The BV cycles a few times then goes silent but the lights stay on. I'm really at a loss but I know this is a simple fix - I can feel it. I just don't know enough about this stuff yet.

Both the cash can and dbv unit seemed to be firmly in position with locking mechanisms set.. The door closed nicely without jamming. When I put a bill in to do the "test" by moving 1 and 6 dip switch, it took the bill and neatly stacked it in the can.

Can you take a picture? Because the 'enabled' lamps are on the bezel and should not come on until after the machine finishes booting. You may just be seeing the red leds that are inside of the head if you are actually looking into the slot.

Your slant top may be a little different, but this (the circled part) is what lights up when the BV is enabled.

Also, how many times does the BV cycle, and does it make any strange noise at the end? This is important becasue we just spent a lot of time troubleshoting someone else's unit that ended up having bad cash can optics. That caused it to cycle 3 times and then make a 'chunk, chunk, chunk' sound. (I don't have a video of that yet). Video added

This video is what the normal cycle sounds like
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EV5t65s98ts (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EV5t65s98ts)

This video is what it sounds like if the cash can is not being detected (possibly because the transport is not seated properly).
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f8lREU54hAY (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f8lREU54hAY)

Here is a video with the cash can optics not working. Linsten closely to the clunking sound after the initial cycle. You may need to turn up the volume to hear it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fwp9QqxTVmM (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fwp9QqxTVmM)

If the unit is cycling a lot like in the second video, pull the cash can out and take a look and see if the transport tabs are down like in the picture and the gear is also down. Many times people don't have the rear of transport seated properly and it does not engage the cash can properly. Also inspect for broken teeth on the gears.

Poppo,  :259- for taking the time to make those videos.

Stat :31-

Rest easy guys, I followed your instruction and check teeth, and the seating of the transport and cashbox. I also verified that I enabled the BVcorrectly by doing it again. I cleared the 61 code and BAM! The insert bill lit up and now it eats one dollar bills and gives me credit for them. Actually it spits out quarters but if I hit the cash/credit button, it turns them into credits.

I guess you guys did it again. I wish I knew where the error lied. If I had to guess, it would be that the first 3 times I used the set chip it didn't take.

Thank you very much for your trouble and your willingness to walk me through this.

GSD Dan

 :3-
You can change the default behavior in the self test mode so bills always go to credits. I believe you said you have a SP731. With no credits on the machine, change this to a 1

Bill Acceptor Pay Mode <0> [8]
This option can be set so that bills are always converted to credits on the machine (1), or to follow the player selected credit (0). If set to follow the player selected credit, bills will be converted to credits if the player has selected the credit mode, or paid from the hopper if the player has selected the noncredit mode

I'll hit you up with that tomorrow. I want to enjoy this little success tonight. I'm ready for a well deserved beer. I'll have a few for you guys too. You earned it. :)