New Life Games Tech Forums

I leave credits on both my Williams 550 and Bally Gamemaker in my game room and the buttons get hot at H E L L.

I would like to convert these button lights to cooler LED's ..

Does anyone have a part number for American Gaming Equipment or some distributor to get the 20-30 led bulbs (I dont know if the Bally is different from the WMS)

Help :)

Hokiehog

try happ controls

And every time I call and speak to a sale rep, they always ask for the part number....

I used these in both my WMS 550 and Gamemaker. Got em from Happ
91-5WB-61W2 
 White T 1-3/4 Single (1) 6 vdc #86  1+   $1.30
Pokernut
 

Karma for Pokernut - ordered 30 of them... thanks

So does that mean that on an IGT S+ or s2000 machine the lights are 6v lights and not 12v?  :103-  I have been meaning to ask that question.  I didn't know what bulbs to buy.  I too want to replace my bulbs but thinking of using red led's for my Volcano and for my Triple Play machine and green for my 5x Pay.  Ya know, I am starting to realize I am getting poor.  :97- :97- :97-

I know the S+ bulbs are 6.something volts -- if you put a 12v LED in there you won't get anything.  I don't know what the S2000s use.

All of these links are to MCM. Their shipping charges are reasonable.


The S2000 uses 12 volt bulbs. #658

Here is the original #658
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/EIKO-658-/25-1010 (http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/EIKO-658-/25-1010)

Here is an LED replacement for the #658
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/25-2945 (http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/25-2945)

---

The S+ uses 6 volt bulbs, #555 or 259 for the larger bulbs, and #86 for the small bulbs.

Here is the #555
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/25-745 (http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/25-745)

Here is the #86
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/25-1000 (http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/25-1000)

Here is the LED replacement for #555/259
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/25-3190 (http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/25-3190)

Here is the LED replacement for the #86
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/25-3205 (http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/25-3205)

I am surprised that Happ was $1.30 per bulb and MCM was $2.49 which is what the thread started (#86).     

But with Happ you'll have to buy a minimum of 20 for $26, and then they'll charge you the mystery surprise of $15-$25 to ship them
With MCM you can buy just one if you really want to, and they will let you know the shipping before checking out.

I'll take MCM unless I really need at least 20. Then Happ might be the better deal for that particular product. But remember that you don't know what the SH "surprise" is going to be until the package arrives.  :37-

Don't forget that some LED's are polarity sensitive. Might have a red stripe on the side. If they don't work on the first try just flip around.

Thanks for the information and and the links.  Now I know what bulbs to buy when it's time to buy them.  It's still going to take a little while before I get them cause I am still doing my game room. And speaking of game rooms, this doesn't have anything to do with slot machines but does anyone know if casino carpet is available?  I'd love to have some of that for my game room.

I would imagine used casino carpets would smell like smoke...phew!
I'm sure any good local carpet store would be able to get what you'd need...?

I learned that the hard way when putting the LED tail lights on the Mustang and the truck.  Now I also lightly put the light in to see if it works before pushing it in place.  If not I flip it over and that normally makes it work.

Received the LED lights yesterday afternoon - Took about 30 minute sto install them all in both machines... HUGE difference!!!!!

Thanks to all

Hokiehog

Could you show us a few pics to see how they look in your game? :89- :91-

I'd love to see what they look like.  I am so close to buying them, myself, but just haven't done it yet.  I so want to do it cause I have the new buttons and switches installed already.  I think I would do colored lights though. 

Hokiehog did you do any colors or just white?

Pictures really dont show the difference.  It goes from a yellow tinted glow to a blueish white tinted glow...

Huge difference in heat... DO IT if you leave credits on your machines or if you dont like the wasted energy for the old bulbs.

I did just white, but goodness.. I didnt even think about other colors... White is gorgeous.  Everyone over last night said what a huge difference the cooler led's made... We have family over on Saturday nights for game night, so it's a GREAT investment for $40 for my Bally and Williams machines.

Hello all!

I didn't take this picture - but someone had posted it at some point to show the difference....

Dan #2

Hello all!

This one too...

Dan #2

Thanks Dan. You saved me the effort of taking a set of pictures. :3-

HOLY MOLY!!!!!  :91- I was in the middle of changing buttons and switches when this email came in but had to stop and take a look.  What an amazing difference and it's been decided that we are finally going to get them and put them in.  :3- I would prefer color (just to personalize my machines)  :89- but even white will do if I have to.  All I can say is bravo for the LED's.   :3-

BTW - We bought two fluorescent black lights to try in the machines and I have to say that I am not impressed. :60- I liked the idea that they weren't so bright but blue just doesn't cut it, at least in the Crystal 7's machine.  I want to try them in the Double Diamond machine and will take a pic and post in the other thread to get your guys' opinion and so others can see what it looks like just in case someone thought of the same thing. :5-

Ashyron, take a pic of it in the C7's too! With that clear, white and pastel graphics, I would think it would be pretty nice. Now are you talking about the glass lights or the reel light?

 Dan (tacman)

hi,all
after i replaced mine S+ with 12V.white LED's lights its no problem with dimming still bright for S-2000 already 12v.blue 

Now I did not see a direct replacement led for the #658 at Happ. I assume a cluster 12v shpould work for the large buttons and a single 12v for the small ones? Seems like they have alot of those on clearance right now and colored ones as well. I'm planning a walk-in to Happ before the show. Thy're supposed to be getting those packs of tickets on the 31st. If I get a confirmation, I will send the midwest people an email to pick some up for the show & meet, that way no S&H!

 Dan (tacman)

If I did this right there should be a new thread here:    http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=2533.0  about the black lights in my machines.  I hope you like the pics.

Dan you might want to take a list of orders for people who may want to pay you reasonable shipping and something for your trouble......

What would it run me for 3 S+'s and a PE+ I presume I would need new legends to make these look good too ?

Jay if your legend plates are not to bad the LEDs will turn them a white almost like new ones. But there is no substitute for new legends.

Ron

I'd be interested in 1 S+ and 1 PE+ set myself -- I have a friend going to the Chicago show, too.   :71-

Hello all!

Ok - so I replaced all my button lights in my S2000 machines - but some of my legends are just too yellowish and look like crap!  There was a thread at one time talking about ways people had cleaned/bleached their legends with pretty good success.  Before I go and buy new replacement ones - figured I could try to cleanup the old ones - worst case, I just replace them if i wreck them.

So - anyone have any experience or suggestions how to make your legends look white again?

Thanks!

Dan #2

Take 'em to a dentist?  :96-


My guess is whatever you use to clean the yellowish nicotine stains
will probably erase the black ink lettering from the legends as well.?

I don't think that thread was salvaged from the old site.  But I believe the solution was to use clorox to bleach out the plastic. The problem is, if the yellowing is not tar induced, but rather just plain yellowing from the heat, the clorox wouldn't do the trick.  As far as the lettering, you could protect it by putting some kind of silicon gel on top of it, letting it dry, and then do the clorox bath.

I'm still kind of new to all this and don't really have leftover parts to try :60- but I was going to suggest using the Clorox Clean-Up stuff since it's made for counter tops and stuff like that so maybe not as harsh or strong as regular bleach.  :103- And maybe use a tooth brush to scrub it all off.  I would also suggest using an old toothbrush and not your current one.   :72- :72- :72-

I'm pretty sure also that the clorox bath was a prolonged exposure of say 10 to 20 minutes?

I doubt the clorox will bring them white like a new set, most yellow legends are beyond help. If I were you I'd keep my eyes open for a deal on a new set of legends...  I hope it works for you though.

Thanks,
Wayne

Most of the yellowing is from the plastic changing color over time and from the heat of the regular bulbs.  As Wayne said, they're most likely beyond help.  Jim (Blueridge) was selling brand new button sets with nice white inserts for a good price -- I don't know if he still has them or not, but it's worth a PM to him.

One note on the button sets he's selling -- do a 1/4 turn of the cherry switch portion to remove it from the button -- they don't just pull out with force like the old style ones.  I learned that the hard way on the first one I tried to take apart.   :25-

I soaked some legends in pure bleach for two days and the black print stayed there but so did the yellowing :37-   

Nothing like a set of new ones  :89-

Same legends Happ sells for about $8 to $8.50 on their site .. plus tax .. plus their special rate shipping.

$12 for a new set of legends which includes first class shipping.



I am not a photographer so you don't get the best picture that someone could take.

Sounds like a great deal Ken, sure would look better and be easier than bleaching.  I would get the bleach on my clothes which would be more costly.


Thanks,
Wayne

I also tried the bleach.  Then I tried hydrogen peroxide.  Then for the heck of it, I tried two different kinds of toothpaste. :5-
Then I tried baking soda, baking soda with the hydrogen peroxide.  The color is definately baked in and is not going anywhere! :52-

Ken I haven't forgotten, I will call soon for the legends and some other things.

Which of the led bulbs out there seem to work best for the S+ ?  The ones from MCM? or Happ?

I'm excited that Ohio Gaming stepped in to offer us some help... :131- :131-
Please let us buy a set or 2 of legends from them...they'll be scrambling to keep up with us! :89-

The one's from Happ are actually 6Volts.  MCM's are 8 Volt so they will be a tad dimmer.   Sometimes they come up on e-bay.  I once bought a dozen for around $20 for the button bulbs, which are like $5 each at Happ.  If you are in a hurry, get the Happ ones, if you are patient, keep your eyes on e-bay.  Just make sure you don't get the 12 volt bulbs as they will be way too dim.

Will somebody tell me what the deal is with Happ's "mystery shipping'  it seems like they rape a lot of people on the shipping costs :37-

The mystery is that they don't quote you a shipping fee before you place the order.  Once they ship, then they'll send you an invoice and "SURPRISE" here's your shipping costs.  They basically charge a "nominal" fee for packing plus the shipping cost + a margin, that's why you'll buy $25.00 worth of LED bulbs and you'll pay about $10 to have them shipped.

This is a listing I found on eBay.  :3- It says for IGT but I wrote them a week or so ago and asked them if they were 6v or 12v bulbs and I never got an answer.  :52- If anyone figures it out please lemme know cause I want some  :89- :89- but don't want to buy the wrong ones. :60- :60-  But I must say that Buzz has a 12v in a 6v plug and it really isn't that dim.  :60-

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250408585005 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250408585005)

The SH for my last order was $13 for a small package of LED bulbs and some of those C-clip rings that hold the S+ reel baskets together. I started putting that order together because I needed ONE lousy C-Clip and nothing available locally would work. They only cost a penny or two each, but in the end, the order cost me $50. At least I have an endless supply of those clips now and some nice LEDs in my buttons. :25-

If you order from Happ, make sure to indicate that you want all of your items shipped together, otherwise they will often break the order into multiple shipments and double or triple your "surprise".

Ron, John42355640970657403570987³ ( :72-) is a long-time NLG member and seller, although he doesn't get to the site much. I've bought from him many times and he is a great person to do business with, IMO. You might want to send him another message and ask him what the voltage is on those bulbs.

BTW, I didn't see Rudy's picture in that auction. :8- :37-

 :81- :81- :81- I didn't know you could just buy legends.  MAN OH MAN!!!! Do I feel stupid now.  :7- :7-  That sure would make my life easier.  :89- I have been replacing the entire buttons and switches too.   :8- :37-  I guess now I have plenty of backup buttons and switches.   :89- :89-

Stat, thanks for stepping up for John.  Maybe he is busy or something but I just kind of see it that if I am going to spend Dad's hard earned retirement I should at least be able to get an answer before I just buy.  Maybe it's just a Ron thing............

I don't blame you. I don't know why he didn't respond; I can only say that I've had good experiences with him in the past.

I have a friend who bought bulbs from him and they were 6 volts.  Of course that doesn't guarantee that these are 6 volt bulbs.  For $15.00 I'd take a chance, if it doesn't work out, I'm sure you can off-load them here for peple with S2000's.

I bought LED's from him about a year ago via an eBay auction -- looked just like that listing.  They were the 6v ones for the S+, and they look great in my game.

[/quote]
....Ron, John42355640970657403570987³ ( :72-) is a long-time NLG member and seller, although he doesn't get to the site much. I've bought from him many times and he is a great person to do business with, IMO. You might want to send him another message and ask him what the voltage is on those bulbs.

BTW, I didn't see Rudy's picture in that auction. :8- :37-
[/quote]


Or the usual WOW!   :96-

Hello all!

For those who don't know....this is Rudy....

Dan #2

SORRY ABOUT THE GLARE!!!

 :72-

I love the Aretha Franklin hat-bow on Rudy!  That's a riot.

I took the plunge and bought the set from John..............
Good price and free shipping, hard to beat that,
Bulbs work fine, quick to install but I must confess they are disappointingly dim for my likes.
Also have heard that the replacement for the #86 bulbs are very dim, not worth the effort.  Anybody tried some brighter leds?
I am still looking around, they has got be some out there somewhere :47-

  #86 bulbs are 6.3 volt     maybe you got 12 volt LEDs bulbs by mistake  Buzz

And our Muffy.

John was having some health issues early this year so Rudy might be a little slow if you trying to contact him.

Do you have nice white like-new inserts?  It makes a huge difference with the LEDs.  If you have yellowed inserts (as most machines do unless they've been changed), the LEDs wind up looking very dim.

I have brand new inserts, I just think it is that the leds are very small, I am looking into trying some from BCSpinball,
they are larger and look to be significantly brighter. The search continues.... :96-

I found the perfect bulbs from www.pinballlife.com for $1.50 ea.
All different colors too!
The product ID numbers are :
abl_LED_wedge #555
I esp. like having a green LED for the "Spin Reels" button...
kinda gives you the feeling of "GO!"....lol
Check them out...

any pics of them in action?

Thanks,
Wayne

okay,
after lunch...lol

are you on the golf course?
W

 :72- no....! I was busy!!! lol
Anyways, I thought I was making this clip for Kev...lol>>>
By the way, I hate editing...so there may may duplicate clips actually...yootube embedding glitch>>

"http://www.youtube.com/v/9YjToHZzdf4&hl=en&fs=1 (http://www.youtube.com/v/9YjToHZzdf4&hl=en&fs=1)

I like the green light the best.  Too bad you didn't hit the jackpot while taping.  I didn't see a cat in the video?

K+
Thanks,
Wayne

Funny thing was , while I was recording, I was thinking I was talking to my kitty cat...lol

At Paris Las Vegas (and maybe other Harrah's properties, too?) they used green LEDs in the "cash out" buttons of their S2000's.  I guess green =  :56-

These Colored LED's are sweet  :71- ...I'm going to order some and try them out  :89- ...that's not a bad price for multiple head LEDs :3-

Queston:...will these work in both S+ and S2000 ?  :103-...Yes I could look up the voltages, ect but I just thought you might know off the top of your head since you already are using them...  :5-

I'm not sure what the voltages are for these...
I know one thing...if the S2000 needs more voltage, then these will be too dim.
However, if the S2000 uses less voltage bulbs, then these will probably burn out...
All I can say for sure is that they are the right ones for an S+ machine.
Secondly, in the photo below, the bulbs are just a touch too big for the button holes.
I used a 150 grit sandpaper and made them just a touch smaller so they buttons work smoothly.
You can also use a good sharp Exacto knife and trim the hole in the button plunger just a touch larger as well.
you will see exactly where I sanded a little on the bulbs to make them fit well. (Look at the white LED)
Finally, for some unknown reason,
the company that puts these bulbs together (They have 3 LED lights on them)
doesn't bend the contact wires the same way for every bulb.
The wire coming out of the printed side of the bulb must exit the socket and
run down the left side of every bulb in order to make contact inside the light socket of a button contact.
I don't understand why the irregularities of the contact wires,
 but it's easy to pull up and bend them over onto the left sides easily enough.
The reason the contact wires of the bulbs must run on the left side? LEDs are one way diodes really.
They do not work when installed backwards....if you put a bulb in and it doesn't work, chances are that it's backwards or the wires are coming out on the right side and not contacting the button socket's contacts.
By the way, you won't burn them if they're backwards, they just won't light up...
Click on the photo to enlarge and you'll see it clearer and you'll also notice that the wires are not exiting the bulbs on the same side.
Nuts huh?, and this photo was taken directly from the website too.....lol
The orange,  blue, and green bulbs have the wires coming out the wrong side...lol    :25-

Those are cool!! I just ordered 5 different colors. Sure beats the plain old bulbs that's in it now.

That would be great if I had something to cash out.  For me the grren is for the casino.

W

S2000 uses 12 volts, S+ uses 6 volts, so these would be too dim for the S2000.

I think you both mean that if the lower voltage S Plus bulbs are in the higher voltage S2000 they would be too bright and soon burn out from the double voltage.  and if S2000 bulbs are used in an S Plus they would be too dim on half voltage.

W

There are no colored bulbs in this machine. small Roscolux squares placed below the legends.  I just never got around to doing all the buttons.  Total cost to do this, 2 cents are less. Buzz

Very nice Game King Buzz.  K+ for the pic

Thanks,
Wayne

I remember a thread a few weeks ago about those movie/photographers light can filters... :71-
Nice job with those buttons Buzz! They look really good!  :131-
Certainly a lot less work and way cheaper than what I did.... :96-

Hey Buzz, looks good and the color you picked makes it pop! Did you use just one square per button or did you do multiple layers?

 Dan (tacman)

Dan  those in the GK are  one layer  but it would depend on the shade of film and the shade you were trying to achieve best thing you get tired of one color it's pretty easy to change.  I suppose on gay pride day you could change to hot pink and show your support. something tells me I shouldn't have said that!!!   If they can't take a joke to hell with them.   Back to the subject I took a large Max Bet button legend and colored the lower side Red (it was all I had )  with a felt pen and it also worked pretty good.  and then just for grins I tryed to remove the red ink with acetone.  Acetone and plastic don't like each other Buzz

 :72- :72- :72- Were you able to salvage the legend?

 Dan (tacman)

  It just started to get a little soft. so I stopped and it's OK.  Dan this is the Truth  I was working with red ink.  Its now kind of PINK   Buzz

That explains the LGBT comment, you're the first one on the block! :3- :3-

bricher  ha  I was talking to Stat when I saw your post, he had to explane it to me   I don't live on that block  Buzz

nevermind............ :81-     :96- I don't wanna get in on this!!!   lol




Okay, I will....lol....I  wanted to say..."so brichter, you live in the neighborhood???"

:97- :97- :97- :97- :97- :97- :97- :97- :97- :97-





(Oh man, I'm in trouble now.....I gotta learn to keep my big mouth shut...... :96-)

It's really amazing how a conversation can (degrade) go from light bulbs to this.....lol


I'm just ribbing guys.... :96-

I just installed these and they look awesome! With the instructions from stayouttadabunker, you can't mess up. You do indeed have to sand the edges of the bulb, or they end up getting stuck inside the button and you need to pull them out with needle nose pliers. Also, as stayouttadabunker points out, both tiny wires coming out of the bulb need to both be put on one side of the bulb. After a little work over, the bulbs are bright and really stand out. These are definitely worth it!!

I am so happy you like it!
Now you know what I meant about sanding the shells of the bulbs to fit in the button holes.... :96-
Bright too, huh! :89-

Like night and day compared to the regular bulbs! I put them in exactly as you did in your machine and they look so cool. The only two grips I have is the yellow bulb makes the button look like an old wore out brown, kind of looks like my new button is actually 10 years old with a regular bulb in it. The second is my slot machine was either never wired to have the change button come on, or someone took out the wires that went to it, because the two connections that go to the bulb portion of that button are non-existant. The top candle works though when you hit the change button. Other than a little sanding and popping over one of the wires on the bulb, it was the best $13.00 I have ever spent on my machine so far!! Thanks again stayouttadabunker for the link to buy them and the tips on installing them!! K+

IGT didn't install wiring for the change button light in the S+. I guess they didn't want to spend the 50 cents. :25-

LOL!! Are you serious?? Can it be done, or is it a pain in the A**???

Two small electrical vinyl insulated connectors (I think Radio Shack for instance still sells them or Lowes)
See photo>>
And some #18 or #20 gauge wire.
Expose about 1/4" of wire and tin the wire with some solder
to stiffen the ends and keep 'em from fraying if you can.
A good source of power could easily come from
a little black 6-pin molex connector coming out of the door harness right under the change light.
Stick one end into the little black 6-pin receptor molex where the Light Blue wire is going into it.
Stick the other wire in where the Grey w/yellow stripe wire is going into it also.
Tape it up with some electrical tape so they don't come out on ya.
(That's a molex for the light shadow box on 3 or 5 line reel glasses.)
The bulb or LED will be on constant 6.3V power but won't affect the switch for the change light.

Wire colors coming out of the little black 6-pin molex are usually:
Light Blue
Grey w/brown stripe
Grey w/orange stripe
Grey w/green stripe
Grey w/yellow stripe
Grey w/ red stripe.

Use the Light Blue and the grey w/yellow stripe for you change light bulb connections! :89-
Those put out 6.3V and is good enough for a #259 bulb or your LEDs!

Click on photo to make it larger and clearer!>>
 

stayouttadabunker, THE THINGS YOU KNOW!! Thanks for info and pic. I'll venture to do that next! Thanks again!!!

Thanks for the compliment, 5Aces....but really, I learned everything from NLG.net....lol
Plus, I fool around with my machine a lot to find out what makes it tick too...

I never bought the yellow LEDs though...
 was afraid they would make the legends look old...
which is what I was trying to stay away from!!!

...but, oddly enough, they DID install wiring for it on the slant top version of the S+.   :71-

Knagl,
On the Slant version, how is the change light hooked up? :103-

I can't swear to it, but I think it's tied in-line with change light in the candle.  I remember having this conversation on the old site -- I'm pretty sure I remember it being discussed that it could be done that way with an upright, but that the slants already had them wired in.  That matches with my memory of a friend who used to have a slant and his change light lit up.

The way I have it hooked up is:  The bulb or LED is ON while the machine is ON....
Tomorrow, I'll figure out how to hook it up so it comes on when the candle is on... :91-
But what I really wanna do is make it FLASH! when the machine goes into "hand-pay" mode....  :72-

If you set your machine to ring on all pays....... and use the voltage from the bell feed you could trigger all sorts of events...... you can then back off on the ring on all pays and it will just ring when you go into hand pay.

just thinking about this some more you could even use a relay to close a contact.....
You could then strip down one of those hallmark cards that either have music or perhaps record your own voice.....
Imagine hearing "WINNER WINNER - Chicken Dinner" ( quote from "21" the movie).

Mark    I think just a  short jumper wire from the hot wire going to candle to the button light bulb will make the button flash when candle flashes. Does the candle flash on a hand pay?? Buzz

yes,
The candle flashes but not the buttons...
Might try the jumper....but I like the hallmark card idea too....lol

SOB   With the jumper, the button light will flash with the candle, now go down to Homedepot and get a door chime ( bell ) I think they are 12 V,  are if you like I have some Jack Pot bells I can send you one. Splice this into the hot candle wire and hook all this up to  Frankenstine Mamma then share a Video with all of us!!!  Buzz

  I LIKE the relay thought..You could hook up a bunch of those neon or chase lights you find at walmart auto section (they are 12 Volts) and mount them on the frame of your slot..  :38-

I started something today....
You S+ fans are gonna freak!!!!
I put in back lit Double Diamond strips using  a 3CM Double Diamond glass kit with a Double Diamond Haywire chip, okay?
But I attached some #259 bulbs to the top of the reel motor...follow me?

Ran a ground wire from each bulb to to ground wire on the "Bet One Credit" switch's bulb...
Then I ran the positive side from each reel bulb to the positive side of the "Bet One Credit" bulb.
The symbols become all Back-Lit up when the Bet One Credit" light comes on! :91-
Just nuts!!! It looks so cool! :89-


I now have back lit reels on a S+!!!!!!!!! :72-

Video sometime tomorrow! (I have a T-time at the golf course later... :96-)

Awesome ..  :3-  :3-  :3-  Looks like we have a few people doing some brainstorming in the Lighting department...  :50-    What to do with my spare Laser....Hummmm  :79-

Thanks Thor!
I must slightly correct myself though...
There is only a SINGLE ground wire and a SINGLE positive wire connecting all the bulbs...
I think it's called a "parallel" circuit... :103-
If one bulb burns out, the others will stay lit up....
sorta like a good set of Christmas lights?

Click on pics to make them larger and clearer>>

    SOB  figure out the voltage going to the digital display when you get a hit. maybe have to go to a lower voltage bulb  hook your pos wire from the reel bulbs to dig. display  now if the bulbs don't cause such a voltage loss that the display will not add up the credits correctly you will have a true back light S+

I think the display only gets power to the "Credits" display LEDs when,  it begins to add up credits.
I could easily add a small voltage relay to capture that and
send it to the back lit lights so that they only come on when there's a hit!
Good idea Buzz! :3-

Anybody have some type of schematic for the display harness?
(I'm running outta bulbs here! I burned out a few trying this out...lol)

One more time stayouttadabunker: THE THINGS YOU KNOW!!!  :3-

   Sounds like the solution along with a relay to trigger them reel lights ONLY when you hit on something  :89-
(Thanks Jay for the Bell Voltage Idea!)

Need leds for the S-2000 ?...see Jim at Blueridge. Hes got the 12 volt ones cheap and only charges a few dollars for shipping.

That's where I got mine and it was just a couple bucks for shipping.  Thing is though the 3 led bulb didn't last too long.  I'm glad I got replacements at the same time cause I have already replaced both.  It's probably something I did cause all they do is blink/flash uncontrolably.  Kind of like a kid with too much sugar, sitting there twitching, LOL

Note to self, order back-ups for your back-ups. 

 I am looking to change all of my bulbs to LEDs. After much searching on this forum and alot of help from Jim at Bettor Slots I have all the info I need to get White LEDs but how about green bulbs?  Jim turned me on to a great source for the green 12 volt bulbs for my Igame and S2000 machines. I found 6 volt green bulbs for my S+ but for the life of me cant find a 6 volt replacement for my Williams Machines #86.   I would also like to put LEDs behind the glass in hopes of saving a little electricity.

That being said I have two questions for the group:

1. Can anyone point me in the right direction for a 6 volt green LED replacement bulb for my Williams machines

2. How about a white LED replacement for the flourescent bulbs behind the glass F15T8 and F8T5 ?

TIA

2. Any LED stick in place of a florescent looked like a dime store grow light behind the glass.. looked horrible

I had been considering this too, especially since they now have cool whote or warm white LEDs.  Not that I doubt your word,
 but anybody got any pics that show the comparison to the standard flourescent?

Also, since this topic has come back up, and my recent self efforts resulted in a burned out resistor   :98-

What is the best white led bulb to replace the 6.3 volt #86? 

Next time I'm out to the casinos I'll snap some photos, one of the casinos has replaced some of the high limit machines with these LED bars. The main problem is the top box, which has no reflection properties at all, the belly doesn't look bad but the top box appears to be lit with a candle.

I searched some more today and found the replacements for pretty much all  flourescent and incandescant lighting for IGT machines on Happs website www.happ.com
Not a lot of good things have been said about them on this forum so I am trying to stay away from them. Plus the LED replacements are expensive, couple hundred bucks to change out one machine. Probably why not alot of talk about doing this mod.

As for the #86  the white LED  that a few on this forum recommended can be found at mcmelectronics.com   item # 25-3225

Brian  Hadn't thought about this for a lot of years, but use to put a piece of aluminum foil behind trailer light bulbs so they would reflect better, I guess a fellow could line the top box with foil. If used double sided tape would be easy to remove if didn't like the idea.  

The one I was mainly considering was the one directly above the reels,  I thought it might be easier on the strips when left on all the time?

Had to fix that for you, Jay... :208- :208-

Someone here had put the LED on the reel lights, a Munsters game, I'll look to see if I can find the post.

I did it Brian....
It's "OK"
Pluses.....
Brighter, colors look a lot nicer.
The "munsters" symbol looks GREAT
The bat is much brighter
The 2X symbol looks great
Cooler, a lot less heat....

Minuses......
They never go completely out...
They will glow about 20% brightness
and you WILL see this thru the reels


Kirk

These bulbs are now $1.00 and they offer quantity discounts on top of that.

Thanks for the update mah!   :3-
kudos + to you...

The past week or so I have been on a mission to find and change all of my bulbs over to LEDs. My S+ is done and I am working on my POTC pinball machine now. Rest of the slots to follow.

Everything is kinda spread out through this thread so I figured that I would group some it together in the hopes that it helps somebody else in the future.  I do need to acknowledge a few others who have offered their input/expertise either through this thread or through email.  Thanks to Statfreak, Bettorslots, stayouttadabunker and magicslots. Hope I didn't leave anyone out or offend anyone.  If anyone has more to add please do so since I have only included info on machines that I own.

I have 5 different types of slot machines and 1 pinball machine in my gameroom, you would think that a bulb, is a bulb, is a bulb, man did I find out different.

IGT S+               6.3 volt original bulbs are #555
IGT S2000          12 volt original bulbs are #658 in the large button and #73 in the small buttons.
IGT Igames         12volt original bulbs are #73
WMS 401/550     6.3 volt original bulbs are #86

Previous posts and some emails pointed me in the direction of these 4 websites offering LED replacements:

www.superbrightleds.com (http://www.superbrightleds.com)   offers 12 volt replacements for the #658 and the #73 in a variety of colors. The #658 replacement is offered with 1 to 6 LEDs in a cluster for the larger buttons.
www.pinballlife.com (http://www.pinballlife.com)            offers 6.3 volt replacements for the #555 in a variety of colors. They also offer replacements for pinball machines in a variety of colors.
www.bcspinball.com (http://www.bcspinball.com)           offers 6.3 volt replacements for the #555 and the #86 in a variety of colors. They also offer replacements for pinball machines in a variety of colors.
www.mcmelectronics (http://www.mcmelectronics)          offers 6.3 and 12 volt replacements the #73 is offered in white and green, #86 and the #658  I only found in white.

Can someone take this a little further and add the original bulb numbers for Bally, WMS Bluebird and others? Also add any other sites that offer the LEDs maybe some  :nlg- members?  Possibly make up some sort of table or cross reference?

I hope this helps someone avoid the confusion that I went through when I decided to change a few light bulbs.

Cruisepl (the other Jay)

That's an excellent idea!  :3-
A complete reference sheet for all the different bulbs for different machines!
Seems like every time a whole new thread of topics gets
started when someone wants to change a couple of bulbs... :25-

I'll be happy to take on this project.  :89-

For the record, the PE+ uses the #86 for the buttons (at least the small buttons) -- I found those on bcspinball.com and put them in my machine a month or so ago.

knagl, check with Mark, I just e-mailed him a long list someone made up.

Ron (r273)

Will do - thanks, Ron.

The S+ also uses the #86 bulb in several locations.

This is some Great info thanks just ordered some leds..think they will look great

Just received my button led's & thought I would share the pics..I think they look awesome & now my buttons aren't burning hot.

They look good.  :3- :3- :3-


There is another pinball dedicated site has extra wide dispersion LEDs in different colors and styles. I've never bought from them, and it looks like the only wide dispersion bulbs they sell that we can use substitute for the #555s. I didn't see any extra wide bulbs for the #86 replacements, although it's the larger buttons and the denomination which use the #555 that most need the extra dispersion.

Still, I think it's worth a look. Their prices are dirt cheap, but the SH will basically force you into buying a larger order.


https://bcspinball.com/index.php?cPath=83

Since the topic is back up... :103-  What would be an led bulb to replace the ones in my S2000 backlit reels?  :200-

Don't waste your money, I did and they looked like S**T ( and I bought 200 of the bulbs ) The backlit bulbs never go completely out, and the LEDs shine a beam much like a spotlight. So on every spin you see these spotlight beams shinning on the reel strips.

 :131- Thanks Buzz..whats the normal bulb number for the reels?  :5-

I bought 100    194 from Happs, are they the right ones I don't know do they work and look good YES

Thanks for finding the bpspinball.com website Stat! That's where I had gotten mine for the the buttons.
However, there was another link somewhere for the four-sided LEDs for the denomination area.
I know Happs has them but they also come with their notorious mystery shipping taxes... :30-

For what it's worth, the #86s I bought from bcspinball.com were great for my PE+ buttons and the 5-line stepper box in an S+.  The 555s I bought from there have too big of a collar to fit inside the S+ buttons.

Kevin  your #86s are 6.3 volt T 1 3/4 for PE & PE+   #194 are 14 volt T 3 1/4   backlit and buttons for a S 2000. Now with out getting everyone up in arms, I install 12 volt T 1 3/4 LEDs in my PE+ machines. Maybe not quite as bright as the same bulb installed in my Game Kings, but I do get the white light and not the yellow light.

I bought 200   12 volt LEDs 3 1/4  They are a little to fat for the buttons on S 2000. I remove lower part of the switch, remove the lens and ledgen, take a drill motor and ream the white plastic a small amount so the bulb won't bind up when the button is pressed. I wouldn't go to all this trouble, but with $150 dollars invested in 200 bulbs I'm going to try to use them some where.
Here is the link to where I bought the LEDs, it came from Kirk in Sin City. LEDs 75 cents each I can recommend the 1 3/4 12 volt I only bought White and Red, the Red are really BRIGHT RED  http://www.jkllamps.com 

Moderator note:
Cross reference to LED topic on the S2000 board.
LEDs (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=8337)


SF :31-
:nlg -- Global Moderator