New Life Games Tech Forums

Hey group. New here, from Michigan. First off, this is my first home machine, know nothing  about them except for what I've read on posts. Just drove 2 hours to pick up an IGT slant top Sizzling Sevens machine. Guy told me he had issues with the bottom cabinet and could not get it locked. Didn't tell me that the reels won't spin and it's not working. Turn it on, lights up, 61 code. Did everything on here that people have talked about, such as holding the reset till it dings, closing the top, then turning the jackpot key. That did nothing. Reels spin freely when off, tighten when on. This machine is coin operated, no bill selector, etc. Guy I bought it from (good ole Ebay) claims it had a battery put in recently. He claims it has something to do with the eye sensors not lining up. I've read about swapping chips, clear chips, etc, etc, etc. really need help here. Hauled this 350LB beast to my basement and want it running.  Thanks in advance.

Welcome to the site.

Do you get the "ding" and a 61-1 in the display after you press and hold the self test button?

If so, what happens after you close the lid and turn the jackpot reset keyswitch -- anything?

Make sure all the other doors are closed (belly door, bill validator stacker access door, etc.).  You might need a new set of optics if you're getting to 61-1, but it's not clearing after you close the door and turn the keyswitch.

So far, Im not sure that the seller has mislead you, as he said their were issues with door optics ("eyes"). Slant top/sit down machines have a couple more doors than other machines, so it would be very easy for ONE to not be registering as closed (in the machines brain anyway). Have you downloaded a manual for it and located all of the doors? With no bill validator, at least your not dealing with the typical 5 doors of a slant top.  :89-

No worries though. Easy fix once its identified. No extra $$$ anyway.

Thanks for the quick replies, I appreciate it. I have not downloaded a manual yet, is there a place on here to download it? The guy I bought it from said there was a problem with the bottom cabinet closing, something about the lock. He actually bought a new lock mechanism, I'm trying to figure out how to install it. As for that bottom cabinet door, it has no optics on it, how does the machine sense this door is open?  I have attached a bunch of pics. I appreciate your help greatly. If I don't respond right away, it's because I'm playing Santa in my big brown bus all day. Thanks guys/girls.

Still getting the 61 1 error. Done the self test, get the ding. I think this has to be an issue with the slot thinking one of the doors is open. Any ideas?  Pics are included. Thanks in advance.   Btw, the pic of the button, should anything be connected to that?

You are ABSOLUTELY correct! The machine "thinks" there is a door open. Unfortunately, I cannot be much help here,as its been years since we had an S+ slant, but I just know there's about a jillion doors...(ok, maybe 4-5, but might as well be a jillion. You'll get it, you're on the trail now!

I got this error a few times and realized the latch for the top lid (the big part!) was not fully locking. I cleaned it up and now I haven't had the problem since. Are you sure it's fully latching? The door is so heavy that sometimes it seems like it's latched when it actually isn't.
I'm sure you know but be careful with the lower door. They love to break or bruise toes as the door just lets go and falls down to your unsuspecting foot.  :8-

Is there just the 2 doors (with no BV) on an S+ slant?

doesn't matter if the machine is a upright or a slant top, the tests in the diagnostics are the same for both machines.  go to the input test menu, 10_1   scroll down to 13_1, close the main door and latch it closed, the 1 should start to toggle back and forth from a 0 to a 1 as long as the door is closed. If it doesn't do this, then there is an open circuit in the optics loop. the bv door could be the problem, or the bis door below the arm rest could be wired into the loop (but I don't remember these ever being in the loop).  but until you get the alternating signal you will NEVER get the machine to reset or work.


Hope this helps


Jim   

New guy stupid question here.  How do I go to the input test menu?  Is there a sticky somewhere for it?  thanks

With machine on, door closed, turn reset key ONCE, Voila!!! You are in! Them just follow Jim's instructions (he's so good at wording them, to heck with the stupid manual, that's a waste of time, seriously).

And scroll down by turning the key again....you won't hurt anything if you don't change anything. Go look and you will see what were saying.

Thanks. I can get the 1 and 0 to toggle back and forth, but don't see this 10_1 or 13_1 that you are talking about. Still have the 61 code, change light and candle light flashing.

Also, I can see that the optics are connected, but as for that white switch(button), it has no wires connected to it and I can't even see any wires dangling that might have went there. Also, I pulled out coin hopper, and the harness behind it has a couple wires clipped also. I'm thinking someone bypassed the doors on this machine. Took all the quarters out of the wheel on the coin hopper also, looks as if it may have stopped working when the battery was replaced as the previous owner stated. I can take pics if needed. Thanks so much.

Bought the clear chip, still getting the dreaded code. IGT slant top, coin sizzling sevens machine. Any other ideas?  Thanks. I really appreciate this.

At 61-1, close all doors and turn jackpot reset key.

Please tell us exactly what steps you've taken and the results.

Removed game chip, installed clear chip, put board back in machine.  Powered on, did nothing. Performed the same procedure again,  Pressed the reset button, turned the jackpot key and the machine started counting from 1 and stopped at 999.  Reinstalled game chip and still nothing. I attached a picture of the board. I bought the machine about a month ago, the seller said battery was bad, replaced it and got this code. Again, I appreciate the help.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mX42MK4IfSY (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mX42MK4IfSY)

This is the clear - reset instructions I use.

Can someone with better eyes than I have tell me the numbers on the SS chip . I think I'm seeing 5122, check the bible . none of the reel chips for Sizzling 7  (3) coin BAP ends with the numbers 22    :103- :103-


http://www.newlifegames.net/igtbible/IGT%203CBP/Game%20Library%20-%20S-Plus%20-%20Sizzling%207%20(3%20Coin%20Buy-A-Pay).htm

Looks like 8122 - DOUBLE JACKPOT HAYWIRE 3C  to me.

The reel chip says 3c SIZZ. It's handwritten that's why it looks deceiving. 

Recap  you say after the clear and you put the SP (game) chip back in and you get nothing, is that like nothing or is that like nothing has changed. Are you saying you never got a 61 ??

Are you sure your getting the Game chip installed in the right direction with NO bent legs ??

Hi there upsMANinMI.  If you would, please stop creating new threads for your machine.  I'll merge this thread with your other threads now.  It helps folks troubleshooting to be able to see what you've previously done to try and resolve your problem with your machine, and when you create new threads, the wheel often has to get re-invented.  Please keep this machine issue in one thread so that the folks trying to help you can assist you better.  Thanks!

I apologize for that. New guy error. I appreciate all the help I've gotten so far. When I get off work tonight, I will re do all the steps, make sure there are no bent legs on the chips, etc. I'll let you know the results.

No problem at all.  We're all anxious to help you get your situation resolved, too.

Ok, I apologize for taking so long to respond. I'm a ups driver, and it's been hectic. Here's the exact process I did.
Turned the machine off
Removed the coin comparator
Removed the coin hopper
Pulled the board out
Removed the game chip
Replaced it with the clear chip
Reinstalled board
Turned machine on and left on for 30 seconds
Pressed the test button, machine then counted up to 999
Reinstalled coin hopper
Reinstalled coin comparator
Turned machine on, nothing displayed on panel, no candle lights, no flashing, nothing
Then attempted to put coins in, they went straight into hopper
Then turned machine off, pulled board out, put it back in, got same 61 code again


That's where I'm at. Thanks again for the help.

What happens NOW when you press the reset/test button for 2-3 seconds? If you can get your 61 to flip to the 61-1, then close the door completely, and turn Jackpot (brass) key on handle side of cabinet ONE TIME. Do not use the key while at a 61 though!

Wait, after the clear process (counting) you did replace the Clear chip with the game chip, right?

Yes, I replaced the clear chip with the game chip after the process.  I tried the jackpot key after pressing the test button and it got me right back to 61 1.

Ok, darn, I hate to see you start throwing parts at this game. I'm not 100% sure what you mean by "tried the key after pushing the button and it got me right back to 61-1"? Did the 61 change to 61-1 when you pushed the button? What happened when you closed the door and turned the key? Did the 61-1 flash/go away and then reappear or did it never even blink or change? Have we confirmed the optics are sensing the door is closing? If the 61-1 didn't change, I'm kinda thinking the machine isn't recognizing a closed door!

What's the history on this machine? Have you ever seen it play properly for any length of time? Or is it a "new to you" machine? Sorry if you mentioned it somewhere else.

Sorry for not being clear. Machine was at 61 after I did this process. Pressed test button, got the ding. Turned jackpot key, switched to 61 1. As for the history of the machine, I bought it from someone who said it just had a battery replacement and then it got this error code. It takes coins, has no bill acceptor, and from previous discussions it looks like it may have the doors bypassed. Personally, I don't know what to look for as far as checking to see if that is the case, but I can tell you there is a wiring harness behind the coin hopper that has a couple wires cut, there are no wires attached to the white button switch(picture attached, and the optics look like there in tact. I'm learning as I go here, was actually told it just needed a cabinet lock to make it work, so I guess I kinda got shafted. Only paid a couple hundred bucks for it, so it's not a huge loss.  Thanks in advance.

QUOTE: "Pressed test button, got the ding. Turned jackpot key, switched to 61 1"

Should be pressed the test button, got the 61-1. CLOSED THE DOOR, then turned the key. Is this what you did??

Yes, I omitted that. My apologies.

Ok, here's the deal. We can't help you unless you tell us EXACTLY what is going on, and EXACTLY what you are doing. I am not being harsh, just truthful. Please be sure and include ALL of the steps you're taking, in the exact order, and what the machine is doing, otherwise, we are just chasing our tails. The 61 error is not uncommon and we've seen it here hundreds of times, maybe thousands, and we've always been able to fix it. If the machine is not sensing the door is closed, then well, that's a different can of worms all together...

If the machine displays a 61, press the button for 2-3 seconds, hear a ding and see the display change to 61-1, then CLOSE THE DOOR, and turn the key ONE TIME. The display should blank for a moment and then the code wil either disappear, change, or reappear.

If a machine stays at a 61-1 after turning the key, that indicates either your JP key is not working properly, or your doors are not registering as closed.

I'll second what Roz said -- since we're not there, we need to know the exact precise steps being taken and their results.  I know you didn't mean to confuse what happened, but when you do, it creates confusion here.



I agree with this 100%.  What happens after you get the 61-1, close the door, and turn the key once?


Also, unrelated, that cherry switch you keep posting a picture of is nothing.  It's not part of a standard S+ machine -- it was likely added by the casino it was in for whatever reason, and it's not needed for the machine to function correctly.

I appreciate the info on the cherry switch, that's good to know. So let me ask this, how does the machine know if the top is closed or not? Strictly by the door optics?  When I get home tonight, I will try what you suggested with the door closing.

Not sure which part is the top that you're asking about.

For the main door or "hatch" with the reel glass that unlocks from under the armrest and then swings up with the help of a pneumatic lift, there is a set of optics that tells the machine the door is closed.  One half of the pair is mounted on the hatch part that swings open, and the other half is fixed on the inside of the machine, essentially on the back of the armrest.  When the door is closed, the optics align, and if they're working properly, one half of that optic pair is emitting an infrared signal, and the other half of that pair is receiving the signal and completing the circuit.

In addition, if your machine has a bill validator, there is a microswitch in the back of the door that opens to give you access to the bill validator stacker box (the "cash can").  I believe that switch is wired in line with the wiring for the main door optics.  As such, if the bill validator door is opened, the circuit is broken and the machine thinks the main door is open.  In order to get past a 61-1, you must have a working set of optics, and the machine must believe that the main door is closed (which means that the bill validator door switch must be closed as well).  Once you have a 61-1, close and latch all the doors, and then turning the jackpot reset key once should clear the machine into being ready to play.

Yes, that is the door I'm speaking of. I do not have a bill validator on this machine. This may sound silly, but would it be possible to take the optics off and hold one in each hand and physically aim the "eyes" at each other to make sure they're lining up, just to rule this out? 

Yes, you can do that, but that won't eliminate the possibility that the optics are bad.  There's a little leeway with the optics (they don't have to be lined up 100%, just pretty close), so chances are that they're lining up correctly when the door is closed.  At this point, I'd suspect a bad set of optics if you're unable to get past the 61-1 with a turn of the jackpot reset key after the door is closed.

I'll order a set of optics and try that. Before I do, let me ask this. The door underneath the slant top(heavy one by your feet), how does the machine sense if this one is closed?  Or does it matter? 

I've only worked on a slant top S+ once, and that was years ago.  I don't know the answer to your question -- anyone else here know if the machine senses if the belly door is open?

For whatever it's worth, on my bartop PE+ video poker machine (same era, similar features between a bartop and a slant top), there's a very small optical sensor about halfway down on the right side that checks for a reflection from a small reflector on the metal belly door panel.  You could look and see if there's any sensor like that on your machine.

Shorttrackskater has an S+ slant top. Maybe he can help us out there.

Shoot! I'm not home right now. I did comment on this waaaaaaaaaaay back. But I need to SEE my machine. I will be home tomorrow evening. I'll have a look then. I know that it interlocks with the top door. I wish I remembered now, but it's been so long since I nearly broke my toe...er...opened that door! I think the pain from that must have erased the memory. I will check asap.

well, I'll try again. USUALLY I have not seen any sensors on the lower door, some casinos did add a cherry switch in the loop, but if you don't see anything that resembles an add on then I doubt there is a sensor for the bottom door.

next, just because you don't have  a bill acceptor  in the machine now doesn't mean one wasn't installed .  If that is the case then there was a cash can switch, and this switch does have to be bypassed for normal operation.

next, since you can clear the machine, you should be able to get into the service mode, with the door open you should be able too press the white test button, each time you press it it will advance to a new test or get to a test where you can set options. you want to scroll down to the test that starts with a 10_1 in the winner paid window, once there use the change button to advance through the list of tests available in this menu (input tests), stop when you get to 13_1 in the WP window, now close and latch the door closed, the 1 should start to change to a 0 and then back and forth from a 0 to a 1 as long as you are in this test. if it doesn't do this ,then you have to determine what is causing this, UNTIL YOU GET THIS TEST TO WORK YOUR MACHINE WILL NEVER WORK, PERIOD, YOUR WASTING YOUR TIME UNTIL YOU GET THIS FIXED.  the optics could be out of align, they could be defective, there could be an open wire in the loop, or the board itself could be bad. here is where you try and put the two together and see if you can get them to alternate from a 1 to a 0.

this is the same information I posted in reply # 8.


Hope this helps

Jim

Got it Jim. I will attempt this test when I get home from work tonight. I appreciate all your help tremendously.

Question.  When trying to get the machine into this "self test mode", does the machine need to be cleared first?  Where I am now is I power it up, have the 61 code.  Press the test button and nothing happens.  Press and hold the test button and I go to 61 1.  What state should the machine be in when starting this self test?  I remember a while back I got it to do this test you are referring to(with it alternating back and forth from 1 to 0), but couldnt tell you how I did it.  ill play around with it while waiting for a response.  thankis

Just did this.  Turned machine on, went to 61 code as usual.  Did not press test button, turned jackpot key once.  Now I have 0000 in the "winner paid" and "credits" windows, while it is alternating back and forth from 0 to 1 in the "coins played" window.  So, is it possible this is the test mode but my machine took a diffrent method to get there?

Also, got the machine to spin the reels once.  Landed back at what it started from, but they did spin.  Did that be turning the jackpot key and pressing the spin reels button.  Now the winner paid window says 1536, credits says 1, and coins played says 2.  Change light and candle light are still flashing as well. 

By turning the reset key BEFORE closing the door, you went into the Accounting mode.
To get out of the accounting mode you're now in, just close the door and watch.
If the numbers go back to the code [61], then your dorr optics are working and that's good!

When you see the code [61], OPEN the door and push and hold in the small little test button for at least 3 seconds first.
The display should now read [61-1]...sometimes you'll hear a ding sound as well.
Now, CLOSE the door making sure the latch is fully downwards, THEN turn the reset key and the machine should be ready to play.

Let us know what happens when you try this.

Again, at a 61, press (or i guess we should say "press and hold") white button for 2-3 seconds, you should hear a ding and/or see display change to 61-1. Close door completely and turn JP key ONCE.

As Stayoutofthebunker just recapped, if the machine returns to a 61 your optics are GOOD!!!

still nothing.  Ive done this exact process numerous times in the past with same results. 

I opened the top small door (this is a slant top) where the cash box would have been, there is a white button and a wiring harness in there with nothing (obviously) pluged into it.  Whether or not its ever had a cash box before is beyond me.  This could be coincidence, but I pushed the button a few times, left that lid open, now i, getting a 21 code.  According the troubleshooting, that is a code for "coin in". 

Back to where we were 20 minutes ago, and Stayoutofthebunkers post. You entered the Acctg menu by turning the key at a 61. stayoutofthebunker told you to close the door to exit that menu. Did the 61 return when you closed the door to exit?

I do believe I am out of the 61 code now.  It is stuck in the 21.  I was able to get it to do some tests.  Got the reels to spin and land on every winning combination with the amount showing in the winner paid window, also got the coin hopper to spin around and test.  From what I read the error code 21 could be a coin comparator or coin optics hopper.  Where should I go with this now?

man.... I dont understand what youre doing but to clear a code [21], all you gotta do is open and close the door.
If it doesn't clear thec ode [21], then something is blocking the coin-in optics...could be fluff, lint, or paper.
Pop up the coin comparator and blow the junk out with a cupped hand over the top of the coin-in guide located right under the coin comparitor. or used compressed air if you have a can of it.

Let us know the exact next thing that happens and we'll go from there ok?

If you can get into the tests...you should try Jim's suggestions of testing the door optics in his Reply # 42 but I'm almost certain your door optics are okay now since you were able to get into the test mode rather than the accounting mode.

I did shut the door, it changes nothing.  21 code is displayed now.  Here is a post with someone having issues with the 21 code and members giving him info on coin optics, etc.  http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=9169.0

holy moly !
That's an old post from 4 years ago! haha

Yeah...you gotta do the coin-in optics tests to pinpoint the problem or cut the Q2 chip off the coin-in optic board.

But it was just working right?
Surprised here...it shouldn't have just died all of a sudden...I'm thinking you just got fluff or lint in the holes of the optic guides.

I know it is old, I did a search for coin optics and that came up.  ha.  As for it working, no?  I was able to do the tests, got rid of the 61 code, but no it is not functional.  Where are these optics located that I should be looking for?  Slant top here.  Any pics anywhere?  I ve been searching old 4 year old posts with no luck. :103-

Here is a pic of an S+ coin comp set up. The green board you see on the lower left side is the coin optics board. Of course, this is a coin set-up not installed in a machine, so yours will look slightly different while installed. There are 4 plastic brackets/arms at each corner of the metal bracket, that hold in the actual coin comparitor. You can remove the coin comparitor from the bracket by pulling out on the top first, and popping it out of the p,attic arms, then repeat with the bottom.

Oops...sorry, the pic needs to be rotated, but the green board would be on the lower left side.

I dont know whats up with that pic, but when I click on it to enlarge it, it sends me to an error screen stating Im not authorized to view it.

Scratch that, its loading now. Ill post a pic of mine,. 

Basically the little boards with the 8 wires connected to it is a black, plastic coin-in guide sandwiched in between them.
There are 3 holes in the plastic guides to allow 3 infrared light beams through them and sometimes they get blocked with lint....all you gotta do is blow it out really.

I'm hoping that's all it is and then the [21] code should clear when the door is closed.
If not, then you may be needing a set of coin-in optic boards.
At least it's not a big expensive part! :)

 Machine is the same as it was 4 years ago.

I have to ask, are you putting the large lower door back on the cabinet ??  It must be installed for the machine to work.  The main upper door latch, you had to swing it to your right in order to get to the lower door latch rod, make sure when putting the lower door back on the cabinet thet upper latch swings back to your left. If it doesn't swing to the left it is designed to block the main door optics and the machine will never see the main door is closed.

When and if you get the reels to spin in boot up they will always stop in the same position they were in before boot up. Un plug machine for years and they will still stop in same position.

The cherry switch where the cash can was must be either bypassed or depressed for the machine to work. Do this pull out on the cherry switch plunger ( it will stay out ) and it will think it is depressed.

Now you keep F**king around were gonna have to call FEDEX for a repairman.

Roz  He has a slant top so the comparator and optics look a little different,  everything just lifts out as a unit.

Fedex would do I better job than me, this thing is driving me nuts. if it had a F**king steering wheel Id be fine.  Cherry switch where the cash can is has been depressed.  Door is shut.  Blew out the optics.  Still have this code 21.  

Here is mine

I'm sure you guys get tired of dealing with the same issues repeatedly from people who don't know sh*t about these machines so I apologize. This is so frustrating as I'm sure it's something simple that I can't figure out.

Here's the latest. Dropped a coin in, went straight to the hopper as usual. Ran the tests, the hopper picked up the coin and it was in the long chute(don't know what that's called). Then got code 3100(extra coin out) instead of the 21.  Took hopper out, removed coin from chute, still got 3100 code. Then decided to re do the clear chip process and I'm back to the 61 1. WTF?  Do I just scrap this thing? 

Why?  Use the clear chip sparingly, and only when instructed to by a knowledgeable member here, please.  It'll save a lot of frustration.

I suspect that your machine is not reliably seeing the main door as closed, for whatever reason.  You could have faulty optics that are intermittently working, or some other intermittent wire issue that is causing the machine to not always know that the door is closed when it actually is.

What city are you in or near?  It's possible there might be a member nearby who can help you in person...

I used the clear chip again after reading old posts from people with similar problems that were instructed to do so from other members. I will not use it in the future unless prompted to. I am located in saint joseph michigan, near Grand Rapids, Kalamazoo and South Bend, Indiana.

Anyone near him (or know anyone who is) that could help in person?

look at the picture in your reply #3, that is the machine door latch, you will see the metal piece blocking the optic ( Black plastic piece that has the little gold piece with red and white wires attached), when the bottom door is in place, there is a linkage that will now allow the door latch to move and remove that piece of metal from blocking the optic ( there is another optic mounted on the door with all your switches, located in the same place so when the top door is closed it will align with the optic on the door latch and complete the circuit). you can fake the machine out and operate it without the bottom door being in place. all you do is lift up the linkage that is moved when the bottom door is in place, and slide the piece that would move because of this action ,and now you can close the main door and latch it and hopefully the machine will reset all the tilts codes and enter the play mode.



Jim