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Author Topic: IGT slant top Sizzling Sevens: 61 code having issues Newbie needs help!  (Read 32908 times)
upsMANinMI
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« Reply #50 on: January 01, 2014, 05:57:16 PM »

I opened the top small door (this is a slant top) where the cash box would have been, there is a white button and a wiring harness in there with nothing (obviously) pluged into it.  Whether or not its ever had a cash box before is beyond me.  This could be coincidence, but I pushed the button a few times, left that lid open, now i, getting a 21 code.  According the troubleshooting, that is a code for "coin in". 
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« Reply #51 on: January 01, 2014, 06:02:29 PM »

still nothing.  Ive done this exact process numerous times in the past with same results.  

Back to where we were 20 minutes ago, and Stayoutofthebunkers post. You entered the Acctg menu by turning the key at a 61. stayoutofthebunker told you to close the door to exit that menu. Did the 61 return when you closed the door to exit?
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upsMANinMI
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« Reply #52 on: January 01, 2014, 06:14:48 PM »

I do believe I am out of the 61 code now.  It is stuck in the 21.  I was able to get it to do some tests.  Got the reels to spin and land on every winning combination with the amount showing in the winner paid window, also got the coin hopper to spin around and test.  From what I read the error code 21 could be a coin comparator or coin optics hopper.  Where should I go with this now?
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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #53 on: January 01, 2014, 06:19:59 PM »

man.... I dont understand what youre doing but to clear a code [21], all you gotta do is open and close the door.
If it doesn't clear thec ode [21], then something is blocking the coin-in optics...could be fluff, lint, or paper.
Pop up the coin comparator and blow the junk out with a cupped hand over the top of the coin-in guide located right under the coin comparitor. or used compressed air if you have a can of it.

Let us know the exact next thing that happens and we'll go from there ok?

If you can get into the tests...you should try Jim's suggestions of testing the door optics in his Reply # 42 but I'm almost certain your door optics are okay now since you were able to get into the test mode rather than the accounting mode.



« Last Edit: January 01, 2014, 06:28:47 PM by stayouttadabunker » Logged
upsMANinMI
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« Reply #54 on: January 01, 2014, 06:27:48 PM »

I did shut the door, it changes nothing.  21 code is displayed now.  Here is a post with someone having issues with the 21 code and members giving him info on coin optics, etc.  http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=9169.0
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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #55 on: January 01, 2014, 06:32:54 PM »

holy moly !
That's an old post from 4 years ago! haha

Yeah...you gotta do the coin-in optics tests to pinpoint the problem or cut the Q2 chip off the coin-in optic board.

But it was just working right?
Surprised here...it shouldn't have just died all of a sudden...I'm thinking you just got fluff or lint in the holes of the optic guides.
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upsMANinMI
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« Reply #56 on: January 01, 2014, 06:40:10 PM »

I know it is old, I did a search for coin optics and that came up.  ha.  As for it working, no?  I was able to do the tests, got rid of the 61 code, but no it is not functional.  Where are these optics located that I should be looking for?  Slant top here.  Any pics anywhere?  I ve been searching old 4 year old posts with no luck. Scratch Head
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« Reply #57 on: January 01, 2014, 06:47:11 PM »

Here is a pic of an S+ coin comp set up. The green board you see on the lower left side is the coin optics board. Of course, this is a coin set-up not installed in a machine, so yours will look slightly different while installed. There are 4 plastic brackets/arms at each corner of the metal bracket, that hold in the actual coin comparitor. You can remove the coin comparitor from the bracket by pulling out on the top first, and popping it out of the p,attic arms, then repeat with the bottom.

Oops...sorry, the pic needs to be rotated, but the green board would be on the lower left side.


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upsMANinMI
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« Reply #58 on: January 01, 2014, 06:50:34 PM »

I dont know whats up with that pic, but when I click on it to enlarge it, it sends me to an error screen stating Im not authorized to view it.
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upsMANinMI
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« Reply #59 on: January 01, 2014, 06:53:14 PM »

Scratch that, its loading now. Ill post a pic of mine,. 
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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #60 on: January 01, 2014, 07:04:58 PM »

Basically the little boards with the 8 wires connected to it is a black, plastic coin-in guide sandwiched in between them.
There are 3 holes in the plastic guides to allow 3 infrared light beams through them and sometimes they get blocked with lint....all you gotta do is blow it out really.

I'm hoping that's all it is and then the [21] code should clear when the door is closed.
If not, then you may be needing a set of coin-in optic boards.
At least it's not a big expensive part! Smiley
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Buzz
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« Reply #61 on: January 01, 2014, 07:05:31 PM »

 Machine is the same as it was 4 years ago.

I have to ask, are you putting the large lower door back on the cabinet ??  It must be installed for the machine to work.  The main upper door latch, you had to swing it to your right in order to get to the lower door latch rod, make sure when putting the lower door back on the cabinet thet upper latch swings back to your left. If it doesn't swing to the left it is designed to block the main door optics and the machine will never see the main door is closed.

When and if you get the reels to spin in boot up they will always stop in the same position they were in before boot up. Un plug machine for years and they will still stop in same position.

The cherry switch where the cash can was must be either bypassed or depressed for the machine to work. Do this pull out on the cherry switch plunger ( it will stay out ) and it will think it is depressed.

Now you keep F**king around were gonna have to call FEDEX for a repairman.

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« Reply #62 on: January 01, 2014, 07:08:46 PM »

Roz  He has a slant top so the comparator and optics look a little different,  everything just lifts out as a unit.
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upsMANinMI
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« Reply #63 on: January 01, 2014, 07:16:07 PM »

Fedex would do I better job than me, this thing is driving me nuts. if it had a F**king steering wheel Id be fine.  Cherry switch where the cash can is has been depressed.  Door is shut.  Blew out the optics.  Still have this code 21.  
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upsMANinMI
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« Reply #64 on: January 01, 2014, 07:21:53 PM »

Here is mine


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upsMANinMI
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« Reply #65 on: January 02, 2014, 12:20:03 AM »

I'm sure you guys get tired of dealing with the same issues repeatedly from people who don't know sh*t about these machines so I apologize. This is so frustrating as I'm sure it's something simple that I can't figure out.
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upsMANinMI
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« Reply #66 on: January 02, 2014, 12:24:14 AM »

Here's the latest. Dropped a coin in, went straight to the hopper as usual. Ran the tests, the hopper picked up the coin and it was in the long chute(don't know what that's called). Then got code 3100(extra coin out) instead of the 21.  Took hopper out, removed coin from chute, still got 3100 code. Then decided to re do the clear chip process and I'm back to the 61 1. WTF?  Do I just scrap this thing? 
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« Reply #67 on: January 02, 2014, 12:28:04 AM »

Then decided to re do the clear chip process

Why?  Use the clear chip sparingly, and only when instructed to by a knowledgeable member here, please.  It'll save a lot of frustration.

I suspect that your machine is not reliably seeing the main door as closed, for whatever reason.  You could have faulty optics that are intermittently working, or some other intermittent wire issue that is causing the machine to not always know that the door is closed when it actually is.

What city are you in or near?  It's possible there might be a member nearby who can help you in person...
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upsMANinMI
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« Reply #68 on: January 02, 2014, 12:52:49 AM »

I used the clear chip again after reading old posts from people with similar problems that were instructed to do so from other members. I will not use it in the future unless prompted to. I am located in saint joseph michigan, near Grand Rapids, Kalamazoo and South Bend, Indiana.
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knagl
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« Reply #69 on: January 02, 2014, 02:43:19 AM »

Anyone near him (or know anyone who is) that could help in person?
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Jim
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« Reply #70 on: January 02, 2014, 12:41:55 PM »

look at the picture in your reply #3, that is the machine door latch, you will see the metal piece blocking the optic ( Black plastic piece that has the little gold piece with red and white wires attached), when the bottom door is in place, there is a linkage that will now allow the door latch to move and remove that piece of metal from blocking the optic ( there is another optic mounted on the door with all your switches, located in the same place so when the top door is closed it will align with the optic on the door latch and complete the circuit). you can fake the machine out and operate it without the bottom door being in place. all you do is lift up the linkage that is moved when the bottom door is in place, and slide the piece that would move because of this action ,and now you can close the main door and latch it and hopefully the machine will reset all the tilts codes and enter the play mode.



Jim
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