IGT S+ code 3300 after 600 coin payout of 900 - hopper test works perfectly

[Hawk]

I have an IGT S+ and it keeps getting error code 3300 saying the hopper is empty, but it isn't.

History of how this issue/3300 code started:
The machine worked perfectly fine and hit a 900 coin payout which is under the 1000 max coin payout of the machine so it started paying out coins and the hopper emptied before completing the payout.
The 3300 error code started flashing.
We added coins to the hopper, it kept paying coins but it ran out of coins again.
The 3300 error code started flashing.
We added coins to the hopper, it reached a coin payout of 600 and stopped paying out coins.
The 3300 error code started flashing.
We added coins to the hopper but now it doesn't keep paying out to reach the 900 coin payout.
I press the reset button behind the power switch and keep pressing to reach the hopper test and turn the game reset key to test the hopper.
The machine counts and pays out 10 coins just as it should, so the hopper tests perfectly.
The test works consistently, the hopper turns, the optical reader works since the coins are counted.
I put the machine back in service and the 3300 keeps flashing.
I don't see anything wrong with the hopper or wiring.
I searched this forum and Google and have run out of ideas except to maybe to get clear chips and clear the MPU.
Have you ever seen this?
Got any ideas?

[CVslots]

This is an easy one....we're just over thinking something here....   what "it" is, is the question......

[rickhunter]

You don't need a clear chip.  Just replace the reel eprom with a different SS chip.  It will reset the game.  Clear the game change errors (61-1 or 61-2), and then put back the old one again clearing the game change errors again and you should be set.  Maybe it's just a glitch and it won't come back

[knagl]

I put the machine back in service and the 3300 keeps flashing.

When you close the door, do the LED displays go blank for a second or two before the 3300 returns?  If not, the machine is not seeing the door as closed, and that's why it's not resetting the error and attempting to complete the payout.  Check to make sure that your bill validator door is closed and latched, and make sure that when you close the main door that you close it firmly and press the latch all the way down so the door optics align and the machine knows the door is closed.


(Also, for clarification on future posts, the button inside your machine behind the power switch (or next to the power switch on many S+ machines) is the Self Test switch.  The keyswitch on the side of the machine is the Jackpot Reset keyswitch.)

[Hawk]

Thank you for the good clues.
When I close the door, the LED display keeps flashing 3300 at the same rate as when the door is open.
Nothing happens when I close the door, the bill reader or the wheels don't run.
I made sure that the bill validator door is closed and latched, and made sure that when I close the main door that it is firmly and pressed the latch all the way down so the door optics align.
It may not be detecting the door closed or some other mandatory requirement.
Can I test or short and bypass the optics?
Do you have a list of requirements, tests and bypass before the slot can proceed with the coin payout?
Thank you very much for your guidance.

[knagl]

Hawk-

Yes, the door optics can be bypassed.  I have never done so on any of my machines, and I don't recommend doing it since it can cause a problem trying to clear the machine with certain SP chips.  If you have another machine, you could try swapping out the known good set of optics with the set that is in question.  If you're hell-bent on bypassing them, try a search using the search button at the top of the screen, or perhaps someone else will chime in with information on how to do so.

When you say that the 3300 is flashing, that seems odd to me although I haven't had an empty hopper issue in forever so my mind isn't 100% sure as to what's normal with them.  Is it rapidly flashing, or what?  Is it alternating between 3300 and the number of coins it still needs to pay out?  Since we're not there, the more you can do to help paint the picture of exactly what's happening, the better we can help you figure this thing out.

[Hawk]

I solved the 3300 error and door optics issue and the slot is working again.

Here is what happened and how I fixed them:

Cleared the 3300 code:

To clear the continuous 3300 error code, I used info shared below (thank you very much for the idea).
I powered down the slot, removed the SS chip from the MPU and powered it back up which generated a 62-1 error code.
I powered down the slot,  reinstalled the SS chip, filled the hopper with 1000 coins and powered it back up.
The slot went through paying out the remaining coins even with the door open.
The 3300 no longer flashed on the display.

Found the door optics issue:

The slot displays were blank, the wheels didn't turn when I closed the door.
I used the self test button and used the input tests to test the door optics.
The input is reached by continuously pressing the self test switch until the coins displayed shows 1 and winners pay displays 10_0.
You then repeatedly turn the game reset key until you get 13_0 on the display.
If the door optics work, it will turn to 13_1 when you close the door.
In my case, the display stayed at 13_0 when I closed the door and therefore deducted the optics didn't work.
With the door open, I shined a flashlight into the cabinet optics receiver and the display changed to 13_1.
This told me the cabinet optics receiver worked and it probably was an issue with the door optics transmitter.
After further inspection of the door transmitter optics I noticed one of the wires was broken.
The slot didn't recognise the door closed and therefore didn't do anything.

Cleared the door optics issue:

I had a yellow LED in a spare kit of parts for another project which I installed in place of the transmitter.
With the slot powered down, I added a long wire to the transmitter wires from the door, put the yellow LED at the end of it.
With the door open, I powered up the slot, tested the yellow LED by holding it right in front of the optical receiver and the slot started working again.

I used a suggestion from this forum to permanently rectify and relocate the optical sensors on the wheel shelf:

Using a long wire, I routed the door transmitter through the slot to the wheel shelf near the optical receiver.
I unscrewed the cabinet optical receiver.
I installed both the transmitter (with the yellow LED) and the receiver, side by side, pointing at each other on the wheel shelf.
I can now operate the slot with the door open or closed.
I use a paper in between the optics when I want to simulate the door open.
note: You do need to hold the white cabinet door switch closed (push in) and then remove the paper between the optics for it to work with the door open.
The moving parts from the door also no longer strain these fragile optical parts.
I really like this suggestion for a non commercial situation like ours.

My wife has been using the slot for the last hour and works consistently well without a glitch, so the yellow LED is doing the job.

The slot is back in operation.

Your ideas have been very helpful and I thank you for your help.