Game King blowing fuse

[bkbargins4u]

Hi all,
This probably sounds like a dumb question but I have to ask and I hope that someone can help.  I have a Game King that when I put in the monitor and turn it on, it blows the middle fuse on the power supply (2A SB).  I replace the fuse, pull out the monitor, and turn it on, and it DOESN'T blow the fuse.  To me it sounds like the monitor is definitely the problem, but is it possible that it is the power supply or something else?
Thanks!   

[jay]

I can't speak specifically about the GameKing but Monitors generally work on 110v
Have you tried plugging it into the wall directly ? (might need to make a cable) does it pop your house breaker ?

If not when its on and working can you measure voltage from its chasis ? as it might be shorting against the GK chasis..... (just speculation).

Hope this helps.

[CaptainHappy]

You may and to try and look at the plug connectors on the monitor and the machine chassis (The connector that looks like the hopper plugs.) and see if any of the pins are bent and causing the short. Just a thought.

CaptainHappy

[bkbargins4u]

Thank you Jay and CaptainHappy for replying!

I am not real familiar or comfortable with monitors but there is a sticker on the back of the monitor that says "Power connector wired for 230V".   

The male pins in the connector on the back of the monitor and the female pins in the connector on the machine chassis both look fine.

I was told that the monitor work fine in this machine shortly before I bought it, but the machine was like this when I bought it.  There is a sticker on the shelf under the monitor that says "WARNING Power must be off prior to removing or installing monitor".  Does anyone know what would happen if someone installed or removed the monitor with the power on?  Maybe this is the problem?????           

 

[Yoeddy1]

You might see a pretty lightning show. 

[bkbargins4u]

I kinda thought that too but nothing looks burnt in the monitor chassis.

[Yoeddy1]

Heh heh...yeah, I don't know if you would see a pop like that...it might just go dark on ya.

[Tilt]

Sounds like your monitor is drawing too much current and blowing the fuse as you suggested.  How old is your game?  Is it a Game King or Game King +?  What size monitor do you have?  A couple of pictures of the inside of the machine might help.

[Buzz]

Thank you Jay and CaptainHappy for replying!

Does anyone know what would happen if someone installed or removed the monitor with the power on?  Maybe this is the problem?????           

 

I don't recommend doing it, but I've never noticed any harm to anything the few times I have done it.
 Billk I looked at your profile and your one of those people that keep their location top secret. I can only guess that your overseas some place and using 220 V elect. am I right?????

[jay]

On most monitors you will see what looks like a big suction cup that has a big insulated wire to the back of the monitor.
This carries in excess of 1800v. When working on a monitor the first thing you do is insert a screwdriver (with plastic handle) and short this out and you hear a big crack of energy being released.

There are other places that carry similar voltages so by NOT disconnecting the monitor you risk electrocution by potentially grabbing on to something that you should not.
It is easy during the removal process to accidently short the monitor against the chasis and fry other parts of the slot and or yourself.

Since the connecting cables are not that long when you pull the monitor out - still connected you get a bugs bunny moment when you run out of leash and then you end up dropping, twisting and/or shorting the machine.

All not good for your health.

[stayouttadabunker]

Billk,
Now why would you even WANT TO remove a monitor with the power on? 
That's just asking for trouble....
Are you being featured on a TV show like "America's Funniest Videos" ?   

[bkbargins4u]

Thanks for replying Jay and Stayouttadabunker!!

Trust me, I respect electricity.  I will flip the breaker to a light or fan when replacing it, and I also make sure a machine is off/unplugged when replacing parts.         

[Buzz]

Jay  A Game King monitor unplugs a lot like a hopper, nothing to disconnect.

 The worse shock I've ever got from a slot machine was the other day when I got my hand down aroung a S+ hopper. The shock wasn't all that bad, it was the damage I did to my hand when I jerked back. ( I bleed easy ) 

[bkbargins4u]

For some reason the following reply didn't go thru with my pictures:

Thanks for replying Yoeddy1, Tilt, and Buzz!!

I have attached a couple of pictures of the inside of my machine, it has a 13"/14" monitor.  I don't know if it is a Game King or a Game King+, how can I tell the difference?

No, I am not overseas, I live in Illinois.  
  

[stayouttadabunker]

Are there any numbers on the MPU board?
Why not take it out and snap a picture of it?
From the photo, I'll be able to tell what you have unless somebody else knows.

[Yoeddy1]

<a href="http://www.youtube.com/v/GMbN9nb3qyk&rel=0" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/v/GMbN9nb3qyk&rel=0</a>

[Buzz]

  Your not by chance using to small of a fuse ??   I don't have any 13/14" machines but on a 19" I removed the fuses one at a time and the only one that effected the monitor was the center one.  ( to small of a fuse was a BAD idea ) it is only a 2A fuse

Keep in mind that my machine is different than yours.  The Blue and the Brown wires right above your fuses supply the monitor with power.( On my machine it's the one on the right ). In your Pic. it looks like you have two that are Blue and Brown I would inspect both those sets of wires for bare spots. I don't know what it would prove but you could leave one or both unplugged and see if the fuse blows.  

Next time you have the monitor out, remove the chassis, or at least remove the two screws and lift it up and make sure nothing got under it when it was moved.

Watch me get people all upset with this statement.
I wouldn't worry to much about getting shocked by a monitor that's not plugged in to electricity, I'm NOT saying it can't happen, I am saying I've never been shocked by a monitor. I know I've heard all the stories about discharging the tube with a screw driver and the cable from the flyback. I tryed the screw driver trick many times, not one time did I ever see are hear a arc. Matter of fact I've read that modern monitors are self discharging.  Is it possible one might not self discharge? I guess it's possible, I guess it's possible I might hit a WOF the next time I'm in a casino, but not likely !!  

[stayouttadabunker]

I've always loved this "CRT Discharging" video made by Sult...
People were bitching about his 1st "CRT Discharging" video so he made this one >>>

http://www.myslotnotes.com/myslotfiles/result0251.wmv

[Tilt]

You have a standard game king.  The IO board tray above the MPU board is the easiest way of identifying it.  GK+ machines have a smaller IO board mounted on the left side of the cabinet.  Your monitor does operate off of 230VAC.  There's an isolation transformer inside the power distribution box (the one with the fuses) that steps up the 115VAC input to 230VAC.  If used in a country where 230V is the primary voltage then it's wired 1:1, so 230V, 230V out.  

Anyhow, check the wiring and connector pins and if they look good the problem is in your monitor.  The blue and brown wires are the 230V power for it like Buzz said.  

Your monitor should have a make and model sticker on the chassis somewhere.  Post that and maybe someone will have a manual for it that they can send you.  

[bkbargins4u]

Thank you all for the ideas on things to check and the videos, Yoeddy's video made the hair on head stand up

I will do some more investigating tomorrow and let you know what I find out.

Thanks again for all your help!!

[KirkLasVegas]

CRT type monitors will blow a fuse when......

1. Power supply electrolytic capacitors are shorted.
2. Diodes are shorted.....
3. Horizontal output transistor is shorted (Feeds flyback transformer).

Simple and NON-DESTRUCTIVE test. Place TWO 100 watt household filament type lamps IN SERIES with the monitor's power. Turn on the power and observe the brightness of the ballast lamps.
Turn OFF power, remove Horizontal output transistor. Turn ON power...if lamps dimmed a lot, replace this device.
If still bright, put device back on the board.
Diodes. carefully clip the lead where you can bridge it back with solder. Clip one lead, turn power ON...if bright, turn off and clip another. Repeat until lamps dim.
Capacitors.JUST REPLACE THEM. So cheap, not worth saving them.Look at polarity first then wiggle them until the leads break off.Unsolder the lead left in the board.
Who cares if you kill the cap, the board is what you want to save.Replace a cap, turn on power...look at lights. Dim..you found it..bright...keep hunting.
A 100 watt set of lamps will pass about 0.8Amps of current. Not enough to blow things up, but enough to show you when your current demands drop.
When you find the bad part, the monitor will attempt to work normally. Remove the lamps and replace the fuse with the CORRECT type.....

It's an OLD trick...used by us old GEEZERS to find broken shit, goes back to the 50's....


Kirk

[bkbargins4u]

Thank you for replying Kirk, unfortunately I must be an idiot when it comes to monitors because I have read your response a dozen times and my head is still spinning.

Well, the fuse IS the correct size, nothing is under the monitor chassis grounding it, and the wires look good.  However, I have attached a picture of what I believe are the monitor wires (because they are the heavy blue and brown wires that you guys talked about) in the door, the connection certainly doesn't look right to me.  Can anyone tell me if that's how they are supposed to be?  It doesn't make sense to me that the monitor wires would be in the door.     

[KirkLasVegas]

Bill...
The problem is in the monitor. You proved that by pulling it out and the fuse no longer blows.
This has nothing to do with wiring in the door.If it was internal cabinet wiring, it would blow with the monitor removed.
How to repair......
1>Pull monitor and test it in another chassis
2>Send monitor in for repair.
3>Swap CRT type monitor for flat panel LCD and new Bezel (best thing to do).

Kirk

[bkbargins4u]

Thanks again Kirk!!

Does anyone repair/know anyone that repairs touchscreen monitors in the Chicago area? 

[Tilt]

Bill,

If you have a Ceronix monitor they offer a flat rate repair service for $45.00 + shipping both ways.  More details here:

http://www.ceronix.com/products_warranty.html