Game King blowing fuse

[bkbargins4u]

It is a Chunghwa monitor and a Ceronix 1493 chassis. 

[Tilt]

It is a Chunghwa monitor and a Ceronix 1493 chassis. 

Ok, it's a Ceronix 1493 monitor.  The CRT is Chunghwa.  Ceronix should take care of you.  Give them a call tomorrow, have the model/serial number handy.

[bkbargins4u]

Thank you for all of the information and clarifying the terminology. 

Thank you to everyone for your help!!

[Tilt]

Hey Bill,

In looking closer at your last photo "004.jpg" I think you should disconnect the brown/blue wires from the connector to the right of that.  Those are fluorescent lamp wires, but it looks like yours have been cut for whatever reason.  Those black and white wires probably still have 115VAC line potential on them.  I take it the top lamp on your machine doesn't work?  This is why.  That hanging socket is where the florescent lamp starter would normally be mounted, and the ballast is completely missing.

Disconnect that mess, install your monitor, and power it up.  If the fuse still blows you have a problem in the monitor no doubt, if not then that other mess was causing the fuse to blow (perhaps shorting out with the door closed?).  Either way it needs to be fixed.

[bkbargins4u]

Great idea, Thanks Tilt!!

Here is an update:
I purchased another nonworking Game King over the weekend to help me troubleshoot my machine (well....that's what I told wife), it supposedly only had a bad power supply.  As it turns out, it had a bad power distribution box, and my original machine has a bad power supply.  After putting my power distribution box in the new machine, I get the attached picture on the monitor in the new machine.  Does anyone know how I fix that?    

Also, after getting the new machine up, I put the original monitor in it and guess what?  Ding, Ding, we have a winner........it blew the fuse meaning the monitor is bad as a couple of very knowledgeable NLG Members said.  As Tilt suggested, I will be sending the monitor to Ceronix, but now I need a new/replacement power distribution box, and power supply.  I will be placing a WTB on New Life Games Classifieds unless someone else has another idea.

Thank you again to ALL for your help!!              

[bkbargins4u]

Oh, and I also need a new/replacement ballast for the top light on my original machine.

[Tilt]

It sounds like you're making some good progress.  When it's all said and done you'll have two working Game Kings   

The gray pixelated screen you see means the MPU board isn't booting up properly.  It could be MPU board itself is bad, but lots of time it's because an EPROM has been installed incorrectly, e.i. in the wrong socket, installed backwards, or a pin was bent during installation.  I'd pull them out and inspect them for damage.  Sometimes just pulling and re-seating them in their sockets will fix the problem. 

Does the MPU board from your first machine boot up in the second one?  If you swap them around you'll get an EEPROM error that you can clear by turning the jackpot reset key and pressing the test button on the MPU board.

Just curious, what is wrong with your power distribution box? Is a connector or something physically broken?  There's really not too much to them, some terminal boards, fuse holders, connectors and a couple of transformers.  The comm board that's installed in it is not used outside of a casino.  If you have a ribbon cable connected to it you can disconnect it.   

[bkbargins4u]

OK, Now I am really confused.  

I am going to call the original machine #1, and the second machine appropriately #2.  Don't confuse these with bodily functions.  

Before checking the eproms on #2, I put the board from #1 into #2.  I got the same picture.    ?????

I checked the power distribution box from #2 and didn't see any physical damage to the connections.  I then put it back into #2 and now I didn't get any video.  Then I put the power distribution box from #1 back into #2, and also didn't get any video.  I then started wiggling wires and found a short in the wires behind the monitor connector in the chassis.  The power would go on and off, etc.  At a quick glance I can't tell why it is shorting out.

So then I moved the known good power supply, power distribution box, and monitor into #1.  The bottom front light went on, and I heard power go to the monitor but no picture, also no fans, lights to buttons, etc.  I then moved the board from #2 to #1, and same.    
  
 


 

[Tilt]

OK, we need to check some voltages to see if the power supply and AC distribution is really working the way it's supposed to.  Do you have a multimeter that you can use to check some voltage reading with?  If so, here's what we need to check.  On J11 on the motherboard put the (-) black lead on pin 10 (Ora/Blk wire), and the (+) red lead on pin 9 (Ora wire).  You should have a reading of ~25VDC.  Move the red lead to pin 8 (red wire).  You should have a reading of ~13VDC.  Then put the red lead on pin 6 (blk wire), you should have a reading of ~7VDC.  If all three of those are there then your power supply is working.  That also means that the AC input to the power supply from the power distribution box is good too. 

Does your working monitor have a power indicator on it so you can tell if it's getting power to it?  If not, you can check it with a multimeter too, but be VERY careful that you don't touch the meter leads to each other or yourself.  There should be ~250VAC going to it.  See the attached picture for where to measure it at.

It sound like you may have an intermittent connection if you can make the power come on and off by wiggling things around.  Make sure all the connectors to the power distribution box are seated properly, the one between the DC power supply and power distribution box, and the connector on the DC power supply itself.  I've attached a photo of my power distribution box that shows where the wires from it are going.  Yours has some additional connectors that are used for your AC florescent lighting.  Mine operate off of the 25VDC power supply so that's why I don't have anything connected there.



 
Moderator: Edited to remove invalid image links. SF

[Tilt]

Moderator: Edited to remove invalid image links. SF

[bkbargins4u]

I checked to see what the voltage was to the J11 connector and didn't get any reading on any of the pins.  Is that possible if the lights, fans, and monitor worked with the same power distribution box and power supply? 
I then blew my meter testing the monitor plug in the chassis, my probes didn't touch but my meter sparked when I insert them into the connector.  What kind of meter do you recommend I buy? 
Also, on machine #2 all of the wires look fine to the monitor plug in the chassis, could a loose or no ground cause the bad connection?  There were supposed to be 2 ground wires that were grounded to the back of the monitor's plug bracket, and there may have only been 1.  I didn't realize that they were there until I took the bolts off. 
   

[KirkLasVegas]

I checked to see what the voltage was to the J11 connector and didn't get any reading on any of the pins.  Is that possible if the lights, fans, and monitor worked with the same power distribution box and power supply? 
I then blew my meter testing the monitor plug in the chassis, my probes didn't touch but my meter sparked when I insert them into the connector.  What kind of meter do you recommend I buy? 
Also, on machine #2 all of the wires look fine to the monitor plug in the chassis, could a loose or no ground cause the bad connection?  There were supposed to be 2 ground wires that were grounded to the back of the monitor's plug bracket, and there may have only been 1.  I didn't realize that they were there until I took the bolts off. 
   

For the price, these are accurate, decent quality and somewhat disposable. You cant really go wrong (I have several of them around the house and office)

http://www.harborfreight.com/general-merch/electrical/7-function-digital-multimeter-90899.html 

[KirkLasVegas]

This one has a backlit display, for $4.99....... (I have one of these too)

http://www.harborfreight.com/general-merch/electrical/7-function-digital-multimeter-92020.html   



Kirk

[bkbargins4u]

That's the same one I have, I mean had. 

[Tilt]

Thanks Kirk, at that price it's almost cheaper to buy a new one then to replace the batteries!

Billk,

I'm not sure why you didn't get any readings on those pins, perhaps you weren't making good contact with them?  You may need to use some force to get the leads all the way to the pins.  

Your fluorescent lights on machine #1 operate off of 115VAC.  I'm not sure about machine number #2 without seeing pictures of it.  The fans on these machines normally operate off of the 25VDC section of the DC power supply.  So the lights and fans could work (at least on machine number 1) but not boot if the 13VDC or 7VDC is missing.

I'm not sure why your blew your meter, most are pretty forgiving about measuring voltages that are out of range, unless you were using an older analog meter and didn't select the proper voltage range?

I'll shoot you a PM with my phone number.  We'll figure out what is wrong with it and get it going.

[StatFreak]

For the price, these are accurate, decent quality and somewhat disposable. You cant really go wrong (I have several of them around the house and office)

http://www.harborfreight.com/general-merch/electrical/7-function-digital-multimeter-90899.html 

This one has a backlit display, for $4.99....... (I have one of these too)

http://www.harborfreight.com/general-merch/electrical/7-function-digital-multimeter-92020.html   

Kirk

Holy cow, Kirk! Those are dirt cheap. I wouldn't trust them with sensitive readings or in cases where accuracy was crucial, but for that price, you could have them lying all over the house and just toss them when they blew up.

I wonder if they sell them by the dozen.     "With six you get eggroll"     Come to think of it, my DMM cost more than a dozen of these.

[KirkLasVegas]

They seem to be very accurate really. Most are based on the same DPM chipset, cant really go wrong with them at this price...


Kirk

[stayouttadabunker]

Hmm...I'm getting hungry. I really want the eggroll...

[StatFreak]

Hmm...I'm getting hungry. I really want the eggroll...

Enjoy!     http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0063821/combined

[CaptainHappy]

Hmm...I'm getting hungry. I really want the eggroll...

Enjoy!     http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0063821/combined

I think he really was thinking of something more like the attached! I sure am!

CH

[StatFreak]

Hmm...I'm getting hungry. I really want the eggroll...

Enjoy!     http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0063821/combined

I think he really was thinking of something more like the attached! I sure am!

CH

You'd take those over Doris Day?   Poor Doris. 




CH I can't keep up with all the new emoticons. 

[stayouttadabunker]

I like the new emoticons! 
Someone should write a entire story with them...

[Tilt]

You guys sure know how to run off topic   Since the current topic is emoticons, can we have TZ's old avatar added too   

[CaptainHappy]

You guys sure know how to run off topic   Since the current topic is emoticons, can we have TZ's old avatar added too   

The funny thing about the bug smiley is that I had it in reserve for some time, but thought it may BUG people.... when Ian put it up as an avatar, I figured that it was time to put it up. As for the previous avatar I have some smileys that I dare not add as they are not PG13!

CH

[stayouttadabunker]

Well, it did go off a bit...(From monitors to multimeters to eggrolls and TZ's old avatar...lol)
always does but it gets back on track...
It all kind of started when he blew his multimeter on
the J11 connector way back there somewhere! lol