Any Stoner's in the House ???

[Bettor Slots]

Okay...sorry.... no dope to found here but thought the heading might catch your attention.  I wanted to take on a new type of challenge...at least very new to me.  Rather than be progressive and move onto the next Slot platform, I wanted to take a big step backwards in time.  I picked up a Stoner Candy machine that is need of some major refurbishment and thought I would share the experience start to finish if anyone has interest in it.  I expect the whole process to take a month or two to get it finished.  What game room or home theater would be finished without something like this right?

First off some history...and by no means am I an expert.  If anyone out there has more information on these I hope you will post it as I am very interested to learn more of it's history.  Stoner was a company in Aurora, IL that produced various styles of this vending machine.  To my knowledge the one I have is called a "Stoner Junior" and was produced some time clear back in the 1940's.  It's a 6 unit vendor but they also had a slightly larger one that was a 8 unit.  Dang hard to believe this little gem is around 70 years old.  These machines were commonly found at your local theaters, barber shops, gas stations, and so on.  What really attracts me to these machines aside from the historic value is their aesthetics and design.  If you take a look at the fine details you can really see the Art Deco influence as well as the Industrial Revolution influence.  This machine was originally a Nickel machine but it's been modified to take Quarters which tells me the last time it was used before it was put into storage was probably back in the 1970's.

Before I get started....first I have to say some thanks.  First to Slot Monkey, who donated the machine for the project.  I say "donated" because he has not stopped by to pick up his trade yet....Mr. Slot Monkey...please come get your trade.  And also to FORDSBS who volunteered to take over the exterior repair and refinishing for some horse trading....Ford you forgot to tell me what color of horse you want?

Here are some "Before" Pictures to get us started:

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Couple more:

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First things first I guess....get organized.  What needs to be done?

1)  All exterior and interior metal frame has some bumps and bruises that need ironed out.  Get the surface rust off.  Prime, paint, apply custom decals, and finish with some clear coats. 

2)  The display glass is shot.  The screened color is crumbling away.

3)  The pull knobs are badly faded, chipped and need replaced.

4)  All chrome parts are dull and need to be re-chromed.

5)  All interior mechanics need to be de-gunked and oiled.  It has some mechanical problems also which I'll talk more about later. 

6)  The "amount" inserts are in bad shape and need replaced.

7)  The lock set is rusted out and needs replaced.

8)  Decide on the new color scheme.

I'm sure there are some more things I have over looked...but that's the major stuff....so basically it's a do over.   


So...get some stuff ordered...that comes first....I cheated and already ordered in some replacement knobs, some custom decals, and a new lock set.

Next step is to disassemble everything and get the frame ready for repair and new paint.

[Yoeddy1]

This reminds me of a big find on Pawn Stars and Rick Dale is about to get a phone call. 

Can't wait to see the progress Jim.  Good luck!

Jason

[brichter]

Stoners?

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Here's some shots of things getting disassembled.

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Some more:

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Couple more:

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FORDSBS .... I labeled the color scheme for you but thought I should post a record of it here since I know you will peel off the labels to prime it.

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Coming your way Ford....thanks 

[FORDSBS]

We're ready for it Jim. My man Chris (Doogie) will give you a first class job.
Thanks, Ford
Ford's Body Shop

[Bettor Slots]

Can anyone give me some advice on what the best products are to clean (de-gunk) and then oil all the mechanical parts?

[Jim]

Jim,
the serial number on the top of the delivery unit will tell you the date of manf.  usually around the '50's   the first two digits.

great work horse of a machine. If memory serves me, the original coin mech on the side only goes up to 10 cents, some were two coin nickle and dime,  we were able to modify them to vend for a Quarter. COINCO coin mech actually made a Stoner  electronic conversion kit  that dispensed change. Had a warehouse full of those  machines along with U-Select-its  , Candy mats, AND Nationals.  and a few Rowes. All to the scrap yard. who knew??


Jim

[FORDSBS]

Can anyone give me some advice on what the best products are to clean (de-gunk) and then oil all the mechanical parts?

I'd try some WD40 & a stiff brush to clean. If that doesn't cut it some engine cleaner from a auto parts store.
Ford

[Bettor Slots]

Jim,
the serial number on the top of the delivery unit will tell you the date of manf.  usually around the '50's   the first two digits.

great work horse of a machine. If memory serves me, the original coin mech on the side only goes up to 10 cents, some were two coin nickle and dime,  we were able to modify them to vend for a Quarter. COINCO coin mech actually made a Stoner  electronic conversion kit  that dispensed change. Had a warehouse full of those  machines along with U-Select-its  , Candy mats, AND Nationals.  and a few Rowes. All to the scrap yard. who knew??

Jim

Cool...thanks for the info.  The serial number is 47J6076 so I guess that makes it a 1947 year of manufacture.  This was converted to take quarters.    Uuugh...pretty sick you tossed what you had.

[Bettor Slots]

I'd try some WD40 & a stiff brush to clean.

Thanks...sounds good.  Anybody work on the mechanical slots?  What's the best type of oil to lubricate all the moving parts?

[Buzz]

Jim   My Son said use Brake Clean, $1.99 a can at  Walmart  It evaporates and you don't have to clean the cleaner off. I use a lot of WD 40 but I've been told that's it no more than kerosene with a odor added.

Can anyone give me some advice on what the best products are to clean (de-gunk) and then oil all the mechanical parts?

[jay]

Well think of it this way.... It just makes your piece of history just that much more rare......

Have you decided on what you plan to Vend ?? once you have it restored ......

There is Marvins Coin OP Musuem that may be able to give you leads on where to find these old parts.

You might also look into that electronic coin upgrade that Jim pointed out and see if the people at the other end can put you in touch with the people who are replacing their mechanical mechs with the electronic ones ..... they might have spare parts to offer up.....

1/2 the fun of these projects is the hunt for parts and all the people connections you make along the way......

[FORDSBS]

Jim   My Son said use Brake Clean, $1.99 a can at  Walmart  It evaporates and you don't have to clean the cleaner off. I use a lot of WD 40 but I've been told that's it no more than kerosene with a odor added.

Can anyone give me some advice on what the best products are to clean (de-gunk) and then oil all the mechanical parts?

Brake clean evaporates faster . If you have gunk that has to be soaked lose WD40 will not evaporate as fast & will soak it lose.
If just for general clean brake clean will work fine.

[proten]

I wouldn't use WD40 as any type of lubrication as it will dry and harden up.
It was made to remove water from electronics as it is non conductive
and not a good lube. The WD40 is the commercial name for "Water Displacement
formula # 40".

To clean the mechanics I would use a Safety Solvent  that you can get
at any auto parts store. Soak the mechanical in a tray of solvent then brush with a stiff paint brush
or tooth brush. It will leave a oily film that can be removed by
cleaning with brake cleaner. Then lube with a high quality oil or grease.
NOTE: Stay away from Carb Cleaners as they are very Toxic and flammable.

[Neonkiss]

First things first I guess....get organized.  What needs to be done?

1)  All exterior and interior metal frame has some bumps and bruises that need ironed out.  Get the surface rust off.  Prime, paint, apply custom decals, and finish with some clear coats.  


4)  All chrome parts are dull and need to be re-chromed.



8)  Decide on the new color scheme.

Nice project.
I have restored a few early and late 40's jukeboxes before. Can I make some recommendations?

It looks like you have a paint scheme picked out, But I would stay with original colors. That green was part of the Deco era and was original. It will hold re-sale value with original paint colors. Anything else will lessen the value.

That trim is most likely aluminum. If so, it was not chromed. It was bright anodized. This was also popular on the old lawn furniture from the era. Remember the stuff with the wide web fabric? A gold tone was added in the 60's
The anodized aluminum is much cheaper than chrome. To chrome aluminum it needs to be plated with copper and then nickel before chrome.

JMO, I look forward to seeing this progress.

[FORDSBS]

Jim, We can make whatever color you want. IT'S YOUR MACHINE & it's your choice.
Ford