Bally S5500 upright manual needed

[mistrbubble]

Just bought a Bally S5500 Blazin 7's machine, and am having trouble getting it to work. I would appreciate if someone could provide a manual so I can attempt to troubleshoot myself, before spending money at a repair shop. Bill validator cycles through, but doesn't light up or accept bills. Coins just fall through the slot, and the comparitor has a green light on it that I'm unsure whether it's supposed to be lighted up or not. Get different codes displayed every time I've tinkered with it, but nothing consistently being displayed. Just need a manual so I know what I'm playing with and looking at. Thanks in advance for any manuals, and or input!!

[stayouttadabunker]

1st of all...Welcome to New Life Games mistrbubble !!!


Power up the machine for the 1st time and tell us exactly what is being displayed.
These numbers are error codes.
We can help you get your machine up and running if you give us more information.
You don't need no stinking manual! lol

Basically, people ask everyday for documentation but don't get it
because all they do is turn around and sell it on ebay for themselves.
I'm not saying you would do this but because I don't know you - I'm not going to give you one.
I hope you understand.
This is NOT what New Life Games is all about.

Okay, so...what numbers are popping up in the display?

Remember, the more you tell us- the more we will tell you!

oh..by the way..the green light on the coin comparitor is a good sign!

[mistrbubble]

Thanks, glad to join.  The light on the comparitor is off,  I can now assume that is NOT a good sign!!! I'm going to attempt to upload a few interior pics that may help diagnose my problems. I so far have have error codes of 0. in the win paid meter, and d in the credit meter. after playing around a little, I then progressed to 4c's in the win and credit metes and a C in the coin in meter. still no light in the bill acceptor, other than a red light back inside by the rollers.

[mistrbubble]

Hmmm, not sure how I upload pics to the topic so you can see what I've got...

[brichter]

Hmmm, not sure how I upload pics to the topic so you can see what I've got...

Click the "preview" button under the box where you type your reply, it takes you to a page where there's a bigger box to type your post in. Below that is a field titled "Attach", with a "browse" button next to it. Click "Browse" and it opens a window for you to browse to the file you want to attach. Select your file from your computer, then click "Post", it really is that easy!  

Or, if your picture is on the web somewhere, you can surround the link with the [img] tags and it will appear inline.

[StatFreak]

Hmmm, not sure how I upload pics to the topic so you can see what I've got...

Don't use the Quick Reply. You won't see any emoticons or the attachment text boxes with that option. Click on a blue "Reply" or "Quote" button.


StatFreak
  Global Moderator


P.S. Bill's answer also works. Clicking "Preview" in Quick Reply takes you to the full "Reply" page. Personally, I'd suggest getting used to using the "Reply" button in favor of the quick reply, but that's just me.

Tip : You can turn Quick Reply off or minimize it by default in your profile settings.

[mistrbubble]

Ok, will have to post pics tomorrow, trying to get a 3yr old to bed is actually harder than fixing a slot!!! Thanks for the info everyone, nice to see others helping out, very cool community here.

[StatFreak]

Ok, will have to post pics tomorrow, trying to get a 3yr old to bed is actually harder than fixing a slot!!! Thanks for the info everyone, nice to see others helping out, very cool community here.

We figured there were enough forums on the web with rude, condescending members wielding flame throwers.

We're a family here, although like all families, we have one or two problem children.

By the way..   


Stat

[mistrbubble]

Ok, so here's what I've got. Non lighted comparitor, non lighted and non accepting validator (cycles when turned on). A couple codes that have popped up, and a peek at the inside wiring setup

[mistrbubble]

next 2 pics

[mistrbubble]

last 2 pics, let me know if you need specific things, I can take more!

[StatFreak]

I've never seen errors like that and they are not listed in the manual (not even close).

First, I believe that you still have a Mastercom installed. It's that board on the left (if I'm correct) and it plugs into the backplane dead center under the MPU tray frame. The plug is figured prominently in picture 1157 along with all that gray wire looping around in there. That stuff is usually pulled out by the casinos.

Did you ever see this machine work?

It may still be set up with SAS and the errors could be due to the machine looking for the casino's server (just a guess here).

Can you pull the MPU board (with power off, of course) and either take a clear picture of the numbers on the main chips near the center front of the board, or write them down and post them? The MPU is on that tray with the two metal handle brackets, that has "Bally Gaming" inscribed, and has the small buttons, LEDs, and a round lock. It should be unlocked.

In particular, there are six labeled chips, and we're looking for the numbers on the left four in sockets U12, U15, U3, & U4. You will also see two banks of DIP switches just to the left of those chips labeled SW3 and SW7. Please take a clear picture of those or let us know the position of all of those switches (on or off).

While you have the board out, check the voltage of the battery with a volt meter. It is a 3.6v battery and should read over 3.0v. If not, it will need replacing.

Also, does the machine have a progressive meter in the top glass? Picture 1157 is too blurry and small to see all the details, but it looks like you might have wires plugged into the locations for a progressive.

[mistrbubble]

I will tak ethe pics you you asked for. It was purchased from someone who bought a "lot" of machines when Binions in Vegas closed down. He sold them as is, but was told they were all in play on the floor when the doors closed. There were about forty machines to choose from. Plugged it in when I got home to LA after transporting it from PHX, It does have a progressive led bay on top, and I wasn't sure if that could be some of the problem. I will go take clearer pics now... 

[mistrbubble]

Ok, pics to follow this update. I sorted throught the bundle of wires in the back to seperate and organize. I found a cut cable that has exposed conductors. It looks like it was pinched at some point in the coin hopper rails. After coiling up and moving out of the way, I restarted the machine. NOW I have the following scenario. The slot card acceptor no longer works, but the the bill validator (still red) and all buttons now flash off and on. There is an 81 code on the display. I think I'm getting closer, but.....

[mistrbubble]

Chip sets shown: U3-18-12-20-4-15

[Buzz]

      PM sent

[mistrbubble]

Next 2: Back panel just below motherboard, left side panel

[mistrbubble]

Here are the illegible chips!
U3 SE920000-F-3 / U12 ME920000-F-1 / U18 E628511X-05 / U20 E628511X-05 / U4 SE920000-F-2 / U15 ME920000-F-0
Dip switch setup is: 1down, 2-3 up, 4-5 down, 6-7-8 up. Rt. side chip has 1-8 all up.

[mistrbubble]

better pics

[mistrbubble]

lt side panel and smaller one above it (parallel to board slot)

[mistrbubble]

Led's on hopper unlit, not sure if that matters in this case.

[StatFreak]

You're making progress. The 81 and flashing lights are a low battery error.

The 5500 series is known for eating batteries, so I suggest soldering in a battery holder to make future changes easy. You might want to stick the battery holder on the outside front of the tray so that you can change it with the board in place and the power on. That way, the next time you get the 81 code you won't have to perform a clear when you change the battery. You'll need a supply of 3.6v lithium batteries, ether in 1/2AA size or full AA size. The full AA is the better choice because it has more milliamp hours and will last a bit longer. Expect to change the battery once every year or two (compared with 10-15 years for an S+ )


The other good news is that you have the older mains that do not require a clear chip. Once you get the battery changed, you can do a full clear simply my moving jumper J10 located in the lower (front) right corner of the board and following the clear instructions.

I'm not sure what those two boards are, but I still think they are related to player tracking, which you should probably just disconnect. I would pull out the connector on the backplane.

It looks like Buzz sent you some goodies, so I'll defer.

[Buzz]

Not this time David, offered a battery and advice plus my phone number.  Poor fellow don't know what a hack he got when he got me!!   

[mistrbubble]

Well I guess I do now!!! Thanks to both of you. Gonna hit Fry's in the morning to check out parts... Buzz, you were right, Shack wants $20 a pop for the small battery.

[StatFreak]

Well I guess I do now!!! Thanks to both of you. Gonna hit Fry's in the morning to check out parts... Buzz, you were right, Shack wants $20 a pop for the small battery.

In addition to the one that Buzz has almost certainly already sent to you, they can be bought from china online by the tray for a couple of bucks or less. Of course, Buzz probably already told you that, too.

That's why I deferred as soon as he sent you the pm.