Logic Door Error mesage

[golflover]

After working on my bill validator, when i restarted the gamemaker bartop I have a logic error on the screen. Biill validator message states no errors. there is a small blue box with othing inside of it, normally this would show the doors that are open on the machine.  Has anyone encountered this type of error message on a gamemaker?  I did not changed any wiring on teh validator and it passes the diagnostic checks ok. I have not found any references to the error message in the manual or on the forum. Any help as always appreciated.

[stayouttadabunker]

Does your machine use a cherry switch or door optics?
Maybe something isn't seated correctly with a connector?
It's possible while you were working on the DBV, something come loose?

[golflover]

Hey Bunker.  The bartop uses the cherry switch.   It has one inside the validator cash box. My orginal problem I posted in the JCM forum was the cash box llock got stuck and will not turn. working with Stat's suggestion I put the switch in the locked postion by using a peice of adhesive foam. Put everything back together and ended up with the logic error. Which from the limited amount of info I can find is associated with the  door switches somehow. I don;t think having the switch in the locked position would cause the error since when the cam would lock the switch to be either open of closed. Didn;t mess with any other wires or locks so am searching for clues again....lol   

[stayouttadabunker]

What was wrong with the lock?
No key? Bent cam?
I have some if you can give me some measurements and I'll try to send you one?

It sounds to me like the door logic signal is stuck.
It MAY have something to do with the taped up switch - I'm not sure.
The only way to know for sure is to remove the tape on that switch
and "open/close" it to see it helps release the stuck signal.

You weren't having this problem before you worked on the switch right?
Send me the measurements of the door lock and cam and I'll see if I can find one for you.

oh, try powering off for a few seconds then powering back on - it might release the stuck door logic.

[golflover]

The lock mech itself does not have an actual key. It has a flat head slot I have been opening with a screw driver, which release the spring loaded bar to release the cash door so the cash box can be removed.  it appears that from wear and tear, old age etc the hole the lock fits into has become oversized and the cam 'sloshes" around and cannot be locaked all the way to push the llock bar up onto the micro switch. The cam nut is tight , it is that the hole in the box has rounded out. I had thought of switch the wires on the micro switch, it has a 3 wire set up. I have not located the exact schematic in the gamemamker manual yet. I beleive wth my limited electrical knowledge of micro switches that the blakc wire on the cneter pole should be the ground. Logically if i switch the other 2 wires that should leave the switch locked and then machine should operate. again just theory but at this point I have not much to loose. When i get home later tonight i am going to reverse all my work, see if the error goes away and leaves me with the just the cash box door open error and I'll be sure. the i can try the wire theory  and start from there. I'll get a wrench on the cam nutand try to get the mech out also to get a better measurement. it looks exactly like the camm locks on my camper storage areas, except they cut and rounded off the lock bar area to fit into the cash box to move the lock bar.  The saga continues!!! 

[stayouttadabunker]

Excellent post golflover!
I truly believe you're on the right track! 
Keep digging around in there and I'm sure you will figure it out.
Going back to the beginning is always a good idea as well...that way when
you re-hook everything up, you sometimes see what you've missed.

Just take your time and don't work on it when you're over tired -
that's when the frustration sets in.
Take a break - have a Bud or something...lol
Remember, it's a hobby and it's for the fun of fixing, playing, and
learning how these puppies work!

Manuals aren't very very good with troubling steps.
Most of them just tell you to replace the part or get a hold of manufacturer.
They really don't want to tell you "how" to fix it! lol

Finally, moving one of the switch wire tabs to another location to make a closed circuit - might work.
I don't know what tab is what on yours because they make them different.
The best way to make sure is to take out the switch and use a multimeter set to "continuity"
and physically check what tab does what when the switch button is depressed.
Make note on a sticky pad, of where the wires are located, for reference later on when you put it back together.
You kill 2 birds with 1 stone by doing this.
1st you learn exactly how your switch works and you've checked to see that it ACTUALLY works! lol

Basically, troubleshooting slots machines is just a form of common electrical sense.
It's very good to have some background on how electronic circuitry works.
Makes it a lot easier when getting these games up and running the way they should!

[golflover]

Took your suggstions Bunker and only worked on the machine when I wasn't burned out..lol.   Anyway found the schematic in the manual, The stacker switch  has 3 wires going to it. What I had posted on NLG was wrong. But so much for my logic. The black wire is the NC wire the orange is the ground and the yellow the NO wire. Now in thinking of the expotential math 3x3x3 would leave me with 27 combinations or switching the wires around. I already tried switching the yellow and orange, same errors. switched the black and yellow, same errors and a couple of other combinations. If I get time today am going to try and write them all down so i can scratch them off one by one. I would have thought switching the black and yellow would have caused the switch to read closed and thereby send the switched close message but no lluck with that one.  I was able to get the back part of the lock off the cam but the hex nut is really jammed on the cam and being that the cash box is a small area to work in cannot get the wrenches or sockets in the to work it loose. I  was thinking about using my dremel with a cutting disk to slice the nut off  but only as a last resort. Seems that reversing the switch should work unless I am missing something in the schematic setup. As for the logic error that just confuses me big time. Even after I put  everything back the  way it was I still got the cash box error which would be normal since the lock is jammed and cannot push the bar up to engage.  Just wish they would give a little more information the on the "logic" of the error message...lol If any of the NLG gurus have any ideas I am open to try just about anything at this point.

[knagl]

I'm no GameMaker expert, but a "logic door" is usually the door that gives you access to the processor boards and game chips.  Make sure that any doors/flaps, etc. to access the processor board(s) are completely closed.

[golflover]

Thanks Knagl... Am looking at everything right now. Could be a switch failure someplace else when i was working on the validator. i did not know that bartops have several switches all over the place. I'll start with the lower door switch as that is the one you go into to get to the hopper and the gameboards/chips. The upper deck has one for the main lid, the cash box has one underneath it as well as the one I am trying to fix inside the cash box. Plus there has to be a few I have not even found yet..lol

[golflover]

Morning All :

I worked last night on all the errors I encountered with my Gamemaker Bartop.  Learned some interesting things, or at least from the probing, checking. troubleshooting and fixing believe I learned some things.   First and to me a biggy was locating the logic error. using what knagl provided as a suggestion I started at the bottom of the machine  checking the switches on the lower doors and working backwards. In tracing the wires and verifying it with the schematic I could find nothing out of whack. However when I worked my  way back to the mainboard, which on a bartop sits in a case on it's side I  noticed that only 3 out of 4 green lights were lit. I immediately realized that this was a contact error, and indicated the board was not seated properly. Turning off the power, I removed the main board, and reinserted it into the backplane. Booted the machine, got 4 green lights, and the logic  error was gone! Not sure how this occurred as the main board is  in the bottom of the machine and all my work was in the area of the stacker/validator. I still had the errors for the main and bill stacker switches. Per bunker's suggestion I reveres ed all my previous work from switching wires etc to get back to where I was. I mentioned in previous posts that I used adhesive foam to block the switch open after I had removed the lock mech, trying to  fool the switch which Stat had suggested. I reassembled the lock mech turning the barrel 180 degrees, as it was hanging up on the right to left turn, I reveresd it so that it opens left to right or counter clockwise instead of clockwise. At this point I put a meter on the switch and had power on, had slight readings. I "accidentally" touched the lock mech and saw a small arc and registered a reading. I am not sure if this was due to a short or if there is current running behind the wall of the cashbox that grounds the lock mech and cashbox lockbar. I tightened up the rear bolt and lock bar, tested it to work with no power on. Checked all my connections found no  shorts,I reinstalled the adhesive foam on the switch and restarted the machine. Did not have any start up errors, bill validator accepted bills.  I unlocked the validator, unlocked the cash box, unloaded, relocked and reinserted bills with no problems. Not sure about the power at the lock mech, might just have been me not being grounded. I am fairly certain that you cannot switch the polarity of the switch by switching the wires, unless I did not get the right combinations. Since the expotential would be 3x3x3  it would leave  27 combinations between the wires and the connectors, least with my fuzzy math I believe that..lol  I was anxious to get the game back up, so i did not attempt to replicate the lock mech error or attempt to use the foam with out the lock mech to see if it was actually needed. In the future I'll tinker with it and try to create the situation again. Now that I have a little better understanding. 

Moral of the Story:  Even a blind squirrel finds an acorn once in a while!!!!!!!! 

Thanks to Stat, Bunker and Knagl for the suggestions and support !!!! K's to all of them!!!!!!!

[stayouttadabunker]

By following this thread, it does appear that re-seating the MPU is really what did the trick!
But you had to notice the lights 1st and that gave you a clue to pinpoint the problem! 
Great job of sleuthing! 

Now you kinda see what "troubleshooting" is all about.
It's basically trying to get to the root of the problem by poking around. 
At the same time - you really learn about the electrical & physical workings of a machine.
Basically all electromechanical slots work pretty much the same way -
there are many variations yes - but they all pretty much use the same stuff.
A power supply, motherboard/backplane board, MPU, etc. etc.

There's still much more to learn about your platform!
I suggest that you don't try "re-enacting" the error though...lol
An old man once said here: "Don't fix it if it ain't broke" 
I break his rule all the time though...