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Author Topic: 13" lcd touchscreens  (Read 24450 times)
ROCKET
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« Reply #25 on: December 18, 2010, 06:41:50 PM »

This may sound silly silverferret.  But is the machine always in the same place? Meaning have you moved it next to a telephone jack - another machine that is video - a home pc ? A lcd or crt television -police scanner ? Strobe lights - baby monitor any alarm wires - or hookups etc. I have personally seen electromagnetic interfernce with any or all of these items to close to a touch screen that is on a brand new machine working perfect ! Try eliminating some of these if you have them and move machine to a seperate spot - seperate circut its powered by. Make sure ac outlet is grounded to start. As I mentioned all of above items can cause trouble even flourscent lights above machines with touch screens do funky things.  Hope this helps.  Happy holidays to all - rocket
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« Reply #26 on: December 18, 2010, 06:56:23 PM »

Actually, it's sandwiched between a gamemaker and a pc and is using power off of a power strip that powers the pc. Damn would that suck if that is the issue because I don't have many places to put it.
I'll see what I can do with that suggestion.
Thanks for the heads up, Jim
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ROCKET
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« Reply #27 on: December 19, 2010, 12:50:24 AM »

Yes it would suck! But cure the problem if moving machine to a seperate circut away from other items that send pulses etc. 3 - yrs ago I had to teach 5 verizon fios techs that came to my house. that there home pc routers were putting out a similar signal- frequency etc  - code that you could actually touch the touch screen of a countertop touch screen game + lose the signal on a wireless lap top 15 - 20 feet away lol .        With all there test equipment I said simple ! Electro magnetic interference . Once the fios router was moved it solved problem. Then on another fios router in same home the  router  had to be reprogramed to a diff frequency.  so a touch screen game would work lol. People do not realize how many radio waves are going through our bodies - houses - daily -from uhf -vhf am-fm radio two way radios of assorted frequencies - cell phones garage door openers - the list of wireless goes on and on  skip the  -ul approved sticker. Its worthless in modern day tech-    So many things run on similar frequencies that even close but not exact frequency will toss off calibrations of games and create crazy things happening -  Simple example is happened to most people ? While in a car or truck driving or parked. Your car radio is on and your car speakers get crackling noises- right  before you get a cell phone call ring ! Some do it some don't ! But that's interference at its best.just move machine + try to isolate all above and any others I did not mention. You have nothing to lose. 
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« Reply #28 on: December 19, 2010, 02:29:53 AM »

One thing people often don't realize is that most home electronics that are very low powered transmitters or are receivers are actually designed to accept (not block) interference from other noise sources (transmitters). There's usually a tiny print sticker citing FCC Reg. 15 somewhere on the device.

I wouldn't be surprised if the regulation applied to the touch controller hardware as well, although I don't know.
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« Reply #29 on: December 19, 2010, 04:27:13 AM »

One thing people often don't realize is that most home electronics that are very low powered transmitters or are receivers are actually designed to accept (not block) interference from other noise sources (transmitters). There's usually a tiny print sticker citing FCC Reg. 15 somewhere on the device.

I wouldn't be surprised if the regulation applied to the touch controller hardware as well, although I don't know.

You should see what the 300 watt transmitter I have in the back yard on 927Mhz does to baby monitors,cordless phones, speakers and other consumer JUNK hahahaha.....
It's not up that much, but you can tell when its transmitting.....
The MAJOR deal breaker? It's LICENSED!! the consumer crap is not and by part-15...they MUST accept any interferance I generate....
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« Reply #30 on: December 19, 2010, 04:30:16 AM »

One thing people often don't realize is that most home electronics that are very low powered transmitters or are receivers are actually designed to accept (not block) interference from other noise sources (transmitters). There's usually a tiny print sticker citing FCC Reg. 15 somewhere on the device.

I wouldn't be surprised if the regulation applied to the touch controller hardware as well, although I don't know.

You should see what the 300 watt transmitter I have in the back yard on 927Mhz does to baby monitors,cordless phones, speakers and other consumer JUNK hahahaha.....
It's not up that much, but you can tell when its transmitting.....
The MAJOR deal breaker? It's LICENSED!! the consumer crap is not and by part-15...they MUST accept any interferance I generate....

I'm also an amateur radio operator, so I've been there and done that, although I've never worked the 33cm band.

P.S. or are you using the frequencies as an ISM, given your occupation?
« Last Edit: December 19, 2010, 04:48:40 AM by StatFreak » Logged

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SilverFerret
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« Reply #31 on: December 19, 2010, 04:48:12 AM »

Could the wifi I have for the pc maybe cause this? 
What I don't get is if the problem is caused by interference then why does it work for three or so weeks whenever I put a new controller in? Or when I moved the ground wire, it again seemed to stay correct for a couple of weeks. I'm tempted to take video of how out of whack it gets and how I have to turn the machine off and back on before calibrating or it won't calibrate correctly.
Ill try switching things around and see if theres any difference. Ill move it away from the pc a bit and isolate its power source and see if things get better 
Still scratching my head, Jim
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« Reply #32 on: December 19, 2010, 04:56:23 AM »

One thing people often don't realize is that most home electronics that are very low powered transmitters or are receivers are actually designed to accept (not block) interference from other noise sources (transmitters). There's usually a tiny print sticker citing FCC Reg. 15 somewhere on the device.

I wouldn't be surprised if the regulation applied to the touch controller hardware as well, although I don't know.

You should see what the 300 watt transmitter I have in the back yard on 927Mhz does to baby monitors,cordless phones, speakers and other consumer JUNK hahahaha.....
It's not up that much, but you can tell when its transmitting.....
The MAJOR deal breaker? It's LICENSED!! the consumer crap is not and by part-15...they MUST accept any interferance I generate....

I'm also an amateur radio operator, so I've been there and done that, although I've never worked the 33cm band.

P.S. or are you using the frequencies as an ISM, given your occupation?

Its a 33Cm repeater with a VoIP interface. Transmitter is a Motorola PURC-5000 paging transmitter with a Maxtrac for a receiver on 902Mhz....
THe "Duplexer" is really a 250 watt power combiner, but at 25 Mhz split..it works fine Smiley

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StatFreak
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« Reply #33 on: December 19, 2010, 07:45:24 AM »

Its a 33Cm repeater with a VoIP interface. Transmitter is a Motorola PURC-5000 paging transmitter with a Maxtrac for a receiver on 902Mhz....
THe "Duplexer" is really a 250 watt power combiner, but at 25 Mhz split..it works fine Smiley


Is it for amateur use or ISM? If amateur, do you run it for a club?
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« Reply #34 on: December 19, 2010, 07:46:13 AM »

Could the wifi I have for the pc maybe cause this? 
What I don't get is if the problem is caused by interference then why does it work for three or so weeks whenever I put a new controller in? Or when I moved the ground wire, it again seemed to stay correct for a couple of weeks. I'm tempted to take video of how out of whack it gets and how I have to turn the machine off and back on before calibrating or it won't calibrate correctly.
Ill try switching things around and see if theres any difference. Ill move it away from the pc a bit and isolate its power source and see if things get better 
Still scratching my head, Jim

This may sound off the wall, but what do you wear when you play the machine?  Shoes? Socks? Barefoot? On a carpet or on a floor?
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« Reply #35 on: December 19, 2010, 12:07:11 PM »

Hardwood floors, and I'll wear a variety of those things.
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StatFreak
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« Reply #36 on: December 20, 2010, 05:57:00 AM »

I don't know of anyone having problems with hardwood floors as opposed to carpeting, but your state of dress might be adding to the ground issue, because touch controllers ground through your body when you touch the screen.

Rocket might want to weigh in here.


Given that you've said that moving the ground wire makes a difference, there might be a loose connection, cold solder joint, or an internal break in that wire. Also make sure that the machine is plugged into a three-prong outlet and that the outlet is properly grounded.
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SilverFerret
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« Reply #37 on: February 05, 2011, 06:34:03 PM »

Lastest update: Still having touchscreen issues and now I realize that when the touchscreen goes haywire, just turning the machine off and back on, aligns the touchscreen instead of having to re-calibrate after turning it off and on as I had thought before.
I know I am asking a lot but you're all I have.
Thanks, Jim
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SilverFerret
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« Reply #38 on: February 12, 2011, 08:11:18 PM »

Okay... does anyone know of a Slot tech in So Cal who could figure this out?
Thanks, Jim
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AnotherTech
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« Reply #39 on: April 05, 2011, 10:46:23 PM »

 It sounds a bit like you have a bad power supply.  A bad P/S, with off voltages or too much ripple, could cause the caps on the touch controller to go bad quickly.  I've seen them cause all kinds of problems in casinos.  Things that go on for weeks intermittently.

If not the P/S, then probably a bad connection somewhere.  Did you ever remove the tape around the screen as ROCKET suggested?  My guess would be that there is some corrosion or junk under the tape, although yours looks better than a lot I've seen.


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SilverFerret
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« Reply #40 on: April 05, 2011, 11:12:48 PM »

I haven't tried the tape thing. I would think (with my limited knowledge) that if it's wires that are corroded, that it would happen all the time, not work great for three weeks with a new t/s controller. Correct me if I'm wrong. The power supply suggestion sounds very probable. Are they easy to come by and easy to replace? Who should I talk to, to get one?
Thanks a bunch, Jim.
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AnotherTech
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« Reply #41 on: April 06, 2011, 12:05:34 AM »

Power supplies are very easy to replace.  Just one screw and they slide out, on most of them.  IGT may still support your machine, but if not there are suppliers like Happ Controls and AG&E.  I'll warn you though, it may be pretty expensive.

You mentioned in an earlier post that you replaced the caps on the t/s controller.  You may just want to try the same thing on the power supply.
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SilverFerret
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« Reply #42 on: April 06, 2011, 01:22:01 AM »

Thanks, I'll check them out. I also like the idea of changing out the caps.
I was checking fuses on what I believe is the power supply and realized that the .125 amp fuse is blown. The machine still works. Could this be my problem?
Thanks, Jim
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AnotherTech
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« Reply #43 on: April 06, 2011, 03:05:32 AM »

I doubt the blown fuse is the problem, a fuse won't be intermittent.  Crazy  I would replace it though.

There are 2 "power supplies" in most IGT games.  One has several connectors, a rocker circuit breaker switch, and usually a power outlet.  That is NOT the one I'm talking about.  I don't think I've ever had to replace that one.

I'm talking about the other one.  arrow

If you aren't sure, post pics of the inside of the cabinet.  I can point out what I'm talking about.
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« Reply #44 on: April 10, 2011, 04:00:44 PM »

Sorry for the delay but I was out of town for a bit. Here's  a picture of the inside of my cabinet. I looked at Suzo/Happ for a power supply and they have pictured, the silver box on the left in my cabinet. Is that the one you're refering to?


* Game King power supply 004.jpg (893.67 KB, 1200x1600 - viewed 353 times.)
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AnotherTech
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« Reply #45 on: April 10, 2011, 08:19:56 PM »

Yes, the one on the left is possibly causing your problem.  The one with the  lightning bolt.
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SilverFerret
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« Reply #46 on: April 10, 2011, 09:12:43 PM »

I'm looking at the part number in SuzoHapp for IGT Game King power supply and it is 40009003 then I look at mine and it says 40009090. Mine was manufactured for IGT by Autec Power Systems. Is this the reason for the difference in part numbers or is it slightly different? If I type in 40009090 into search on SuzoHapp, I get a labor charge for repair of the IGT power supply.
Before I start changing out capacitors, I like to have a back up in case I screw it up and can't use the game at all so I'll probably just get another one anyway but I want to make sure it's the right one. You're right though, they are pricey.
Thanks, Jim
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« Reply #47 on: April 12, 2011, 12:25:48 AM »

Okay, I found the same power supply online and it is heading my way. I'll swap them out when it arrives and see what happens.
Wish me luck. Jim
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« Reply #48 on: May 04, 2011, 01:58:57 AM »

Power supply didn't change anything and since pokerstars is offlimits and they"re sending me my winning I said screw it.... and have a Ceronix drop in lcd T/S monitor on the way.
This better solve my problem.
Fingers will be crossed.
Jim
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« Reply #49 on: May 07, 2011, 02:55:03 AM »

Problem solved... I hope!?!


* Game King LCD 010.jpg (876.95 KB, 1200x1600 - viewed 371 times.)
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