Sigma Treasure Wheel and Treasure Tunnel Manual

[jeff412]

Hey y'all.  I'm new to slots and NLG.  I just picked up a pair of Sigma slots.  I got a Treasure Tunnel and a Treasure Wheel.  I am looking for the manuals for them.  I searched the forum and found a post that said to check "submit a new file".  When I click on that link all I get is a blank page.  Can someone direct me to the manuals or tell me where I can download them?

Thanks,
Jeff

[knagl]

Welcome to  !


The "submit a new file" section has been broken for a while now, with no ETA for a fix.  If someone had posted that in the past, they had likely uploaded the manual at that time, but it's now long gone.  I don't have the manual myself, although someone else who happens upon this thread may be able to help you.

To help them help you, do you have a problem with your machine right now that you're trying to fix?  If so, please let us know specifically what the issue is.  Pictures generally help, too!  (Not to mention, a lot of the member base is interested in seeing the machines that other people have  .)

 

Again, welcome to the site!

[jeff412]

The Treasure Wheel works fine.  I would like to learn how to change the payout percentage.  However, the Treasure Tunnel has a DBV that isn't working correctly.  It is a JCM WBA 13 SU.  It will pull the bill all the way in, hold it for a couple of seconds, then spit it back out.  The arm on it also doesn't spring back up when you pull it.  thanks for the help!

Jeff

[jeff412]

Played the Treasure Tunnel some tonight and discovered several issues.  The "tunnel" doesn't change colors, all the lights just stay lit all the time.  Even when you get the "free play" option.  It does the free spins, but just doesn't cycle the lights.  The most annoying thing is the sound.  It has a lot of intermittant static.  Another thing is the lock on the arm.  It doesn't release all the time.  I don't see an easy way to get to it.  The last thing is the DBV.  It seems to occasionally accept bills.  I was able to get it to accept a $10 and 2 $100's, but nothing else.  Maybe a good cleaning, not sure.  Other than that the game plays correctly.  Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Jeff

[knagl]

I'm sure someone who knows Sigma stuff will jump in here to help you -- I've never worked on the platform before (in fact, I'm not sure that I've ever even played a Sigma machine).

[stayouttadabunker]

Hi Jeff! 
I know you have a million questions but let's try one thing at a time...lol
First thing...let me try to give you a copy of my manual I have for my machine.
Please PM me your email address.
It's a rather large manual...more like a book so you're gonna need a
pretty big mailbox ( I recommend Gmail really...) or I can send it to you with specific
pages you'll need to get your machine up and running like it should be! 

Second thing, the topbox lights...I want you to be extremely careful in this area.
There's about 470 volts running around up there...
one wrong move and you'll be on the floor on your back! 

Thirdly, changing the payout %.
The only way to do this is to change the chips on the MPU.
The only vendor I know that might have different Sigma TT chips is Ben Fannini.
His phone number is in his banner on top of the homepage.

Finally, the DBV...I'd remove it from the machine and
clean the eye optics and belts with plain warm soapy water.
Don't us any cleaners with alcohol-based solvents - you will only make things worse.
The solvents are too strong and cause the plastic optical eyes to glaze over - 
this makes it even harder for any kind of bill acceptance.
I'd give him a call and see what he can get for ya. 
Talk to ya later!

[jeff412]

Thanks.  I have already gotten a manual, so I am good there. 

I appreciate the warning on the voltages in the top.  I'll be more careful when I am up there.

Is there an easy way to remove the DBV? 

The payout % isn't critical, just a curiosity more than anything.  Are there rom files somewhere that I could burn to a chip to make the changes?  I do have an eprom burner.


Thanks again for the info.

Jeff

[stayouttadabunker]

Removing the DBV is really tough.
It requires extensions for sockets to reach through the body of the DBV
to get at the nuts attached to the right side cabinet wall studs.

Remove the reels first, to give you a lot more room to work with.
Plus the reel baskets are too delicate and can break easily if you hit
them with a socket wrench handle or something.

As far as file burning or such...stop right there! 
It's not allowed here on NLG.

[knagl]

Second thing, the topbox lights...I want you to be extremely careful in this area.
There's about 470 volts running around up there...
one wrong move and you'll be on the floor on your back! 

470 volts?!  What the hell were they thinking?         

[stayouttadabunker]

Shocking some poor unsuspecting floor tech
"Duh,...hey charlie...wanna go change the light bulb in that Sigma?
The other guy died last week"...



Seriously, turn the POWER OFF before getting into this thing!
Click on photo to enlarge...>>>

[jeff412]

As far as file burning or such...stop right there! 
It's not allowed here on NLG.

Sorry.  I didn't know I was asking a forbidden question.  It really wasn't that important anyway.  I work on Video Games and Pinball machines a lot and thought it was basically the same thing.  I'll try to avoid that topic in the future.

[stayouttadabunker]

Yeah...that's okay on those websites but not here...lol
Recognize this puppy? >>>

<a href="http://www.youtube.com/v/jFobyi5UVRE&rel=0" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/v/jFobyi5UVRE&rel=0</a>

[knagl]

Oh, it's neon, that's why the voltage is so high.   

I work on Video Games and Pinball machines a lot and thought it was basically the same thing.  I'll try to avoid that topic in the future.

Jeff-

Yeah, the pinball and video game worlds are a lot different from the slot world.  Many of the companies who made the pins/vids aren't in that business and don't seem to care (or aren't around to care), but for whatever reason, the gaming giants are VERY protective of their copyrighted stuff -- even stuff that belonged to machines that are 20+ years old that they no longer support.  As such, we don't permit the discussion or solicitation of files on this site, as such topics and distribution could lead to the site being shut down.  I know it seems overly dramatic, but it really isn't -- the "big boys" of the industry don't like home users having "their" machines in the hands of non-casinos (us), and they go out of their way to enforce their copyrights.

That said, whatever happens in private e-mail discussions (not PMs on the site, but e-mail) is obviously beyond the control or scope of this site.     Of course, we don't encourage any activity that could be deemed illegal, and that's why we don't permit the solicitation or distribution of such files on this site. 

[jeff412]

Yep that's it.  All the lights in mine stay on all the time.

Jeff

Yeah...that's okay on those websites but not here...lol
Recognize this puppy? >>>

http://www.youtube.com/v/jFobyi5UVRE?fs=1&amp;hl=en_US

[jeff412]

Here's a photo of my machine.  The IGT next to it isn't mine.  This is a photo the seller sent me.  I appreciate all of the kind words.  Hopefully I can get this thing up and running 100%.

Jeff

[stayouttadabunker]

When I moved my camera to the back of the lights -
you may have saw briefly, a board back there.
That board is the driver board for the neon lights.
It's very possible it's fried or an IC transistor is stuck "on" -
hence, keeping all the neon's on all the time.

Unplug the machine and remove the board from behind the neon lights and
check it out for any burned out traces or transistors.
Make sure that board is totally functional before re-installing it.
You may have to take it somewhere to have a technician check it out
if you don't know how to perform board-level repairs.
Also check all the wiring leading up to the neons.
Maybe a connector got loose?
See if there's any yellowish stains from overheating
on the Molex connector housings.
Make sure none of the pins are shoved back into their housings to make poor contact.
I'm also suspecting a weak or loose signal coming from the MPU.
Do you have another light assembly to swap it out with?
Or is that the only one you have?

[jeff412]

I have looked at the board behind the lights and nothing obvious.  All of the diodes look good.  I didn't test them, but I will tomorrow.  No obvious loose connections and no obvious overheating.


Jeff