New machine - lots of questions

[poppo]

Ok, so where to start?

1. This machine has that gold finish trim (door etc) which of course is all worn off by the buttons. Any suggestions for fixing that? I would have preferred a silver finish, but it is what it is. Has anyone ever just removed the gold finish (it looks like it might just be paint).

2. This has a 16mhz board in it. Never had one. So how do you adjust the volume?

3. The unit has a DVB-145. I have a spare DVB-200 head and power supply. Is it just a matter of swapping them? I'll have to look up more info on the DVB-145, but can it be upgraded to the same level as the DVB-200 (everything except new $5s?

4. There is a cherry switch above the door optics. What is it for?

5. There is a small board mounted above the MPU on the back of the cabinet. I assume it is for the (missing) player tracking thing or something related to that?

6. This is a 9" top. On my round top, there is a bracket that is mounted to the frame (bottom). Then after you put the glass in which sits on the bracket, there is a plate that clips on to that bracket. This seems to only have the plate and the glass does not seem very secure. Is something missing?

I'm sure I will have more questions later. I'll take some pictures if what I asked does not make sense.

[stayouttadabunker]

Ok, so where to start?
You already did! Right here on NLG!  

1. This machine has that gold finish trim (door etc) which of course is all worn off by the buttons.
Any suggestions for fixing that? I would have preferred a silver finish, but it is what it is.
Has anyone ever just removed the gold finish (it looks like it might just be paint).
The gold color was probably sprayed on or dipped put onto the metal...I'm not sure if it's "paint".
It may have been applied electrolytically onto a plain chrome door laying underneath.
If it's "paint", then there would be a layer of paint primer under the gold.

2. This has a 16mhz board in it. Never had one. So how do you adjust the volume?
That volume is adjusted via the options using the test switch and spin button.
I believe it's under page 3 of the options - it really depends on what SP chip is installed.
You will find it in the appropriate PSR sheet.

3. The unit has a DVB-145. I have a spare DVB-200 head and power supply.
Is it just a matter of swapping them?
I'll have to look up more info on the DVB-145, but can it be upgraded to the
same level as the DVB-200 (everything except new $5s?
Yes and no...The 145's are history. Use the DBV 200's.
Make sure the connectors and transports are the same between the different DBV's.

4. There is a cherry switch above the door optics. What is it for?
Could be for anything really...sometimes they're just there to turn on/off an
optional service lamp or as added security feature.
Follow the wiring from it and see what it's switching.

5. There is a small board mounted above the MPU on the back of the cabinet.
I assume it is for the (missing) player tracking thing or something related to that?
Those were usually for communications between the machine and the backroom.
You do not need it for the machine to work.

6. This is a 9" top. On my round top, there is a bracket that is mounted to the frame (bottom).
Then after you put the glass in which sits on the bracket, there is a plate that clips on to that bracket.
This seems to only have the plate and the glass does not seem very secure.
Is something missing?
The plate sometimes has a longer lip with rubber inside along with 3 screws to secure the glass to it.
If the glass fits the whole opening , it will be fine. Just tighten up the bolts on the screws a little bit more.

I'm sure I will have more questions later.
I'll take some pictures if what I asked does not make sense.

[poppo]

Thanks.

Here are some pictures and still more questions about the things above.

1. Here is the machine. I'm still wondering if anyone has tried to repair the worn gold finish.



2. I'll have to see what chips are in it for the volume, but I will probably just pop a 10mhz board in.

3. Found my answer on the BV. I may just leave that one in since I rarely use anything but singles.

4. Here is a picture of that switch. It looks original, I have not traced it down yet. Just curious what it may have been for.




5. That small board. Just want to make sure it’s ok to pull it out.



6. Ok, this is the bigger issue. First this is my round top. It has a bracket that the glass sits in. Then there is a cover plate that snaps into place.





This machine has no bracket. The glass just sort of sits in the top of rthe cover plate and everything wobbles around. It's like it’s missing something.



The cover plate that the glass is just sitting in the top groove and nothing secures it.


Is it safe to assume if I found a bracket and plate like the round top, it would work ok? This plate just has empty holes anyway from the card slot etc.

[FORDSBS]

Jim @ Blue Ridge @ top of page can fix you up with some of what you need .
Ford

[StatFreak]

Poppo, my 9" glass fits in the same way as yours. It just sits in a groove in the player tracking plate.

Regarding the DBV, upgrading to a 200 should be a simple head swap. Just make sure that your dbv PS (black box glued to the left side of the cash box frame) has gills. If if is a solid black box, then you'll need to upgrade the PS because the older ones don't supply enough amps for the 200 head.

[poppo]

Poppo, my 9" glass fits in the same way as yours. It just sits in a groove in the player tracking plate.

Regarding the DBV, upgrading to a 200 should be a simple head swap. Just make sure that your dbv PS (black box glued to the left side of the cash box frame) has gills. If if is a solid black box, then you'll need to upgrade the PS because the older ones don't supply enough amps for the 200 head.

So it sort of 'flops around'?

I know about the BV power supply. This one does not have the vent slots. I have a spare vented power supply and DVB-200 heads. Just not sure if I am going to bother swapping it out or not. I bought this game for one of two reasons. (1) As a spare parts source - i.e. I wanted an extra hpper and some other items. (2) To fix up if it I didn't have to put much money into it. I could have bought a pretty minty round top for $500, so I need to keep any $ investment to an absolute minimum

[poppo]

Jim @ Blue Ridge @ top of page can fix you up with some of what you need .
Ford

Not quite sure what I need yet. 

[StatFreak]

So it sort of 'flops around'?

While I'm putting it in, but not once it's installed. I usually hold the player tracking bar from below with my left hand and the top of the award glass lightly with my right fingertips. Once the top of the glass is against the side supports I let go of the top and put my fingers on the front of the glass to guide it into place while lifting the tracking bar in place. Does that make sense?


P.S. My round top is also the same as yours -- and probably most others. I find it to be the most difficult of the three sizes to deal with. I'm always afraid that I'm going to chip the bottom of the award glass when I'm putting it back in. 

[poppo]

While I'm putting it in, but not once it's installed.

I think I found the problem. I think the bottom, where the the tracking bar pops in is bent down a little on the left side. This causes the tracking bar to be really loose on that end and 'wobble'. It never really pops into place. I can fix that one way or another. 

Now let's talk laminate or something to put over the tracking bar to cover all of those holes. I want something like on my round top that I can stick to the front. Anyone have any ideas of what to use and where to get it?



On a side note, I popped one of my modified 10Mhz boards (the ones I put the EEPROM on the MPU) and it fired right up ready to play, credits and all. Always fun to play a game with the wrong reel strips though.  I just wanted to see if it would work in this machine too.

[poppo]

And yet another question (I did search first). Do the 16Mhz boards use 27512 eproms for the reel chip. I see the MPU has no size jumpers.

[stayouttadabunker]

And yet another question (I did search first).
Do the 16Mhz boards use 27512 eproms for the reel chip.
I see the MPU has no size jumpers.

The SP PSR sheet will provide this info providing you provide to us the SP number... 

[brichter]

My S+ glass has the same type of glass retention system. I put some of the 2-sided foam tape into the bottom of the slot where the glass sits, and now it's like one piece, no more floppage.

[poppo]

And yet another question (I did search first).
Do the 16Mhz boards use 27512 eproms for the reel chip.
I see the MPU has no size jumpers.

The SP PSR sheet will provide this info providing you provide to us the SP number... 

It's a SP1145. The PSR says 27C64. But my question was more about the 16Mhz MPU in general. Why would it not have jumpers like the 10Mhz board when it is newer? Did they just decide a reel chip would never be more than 8k?

[stayouttadabunker]

The M27C512's are my fav even though they're an overkill size-wise for the S+.
They're just more plentiful on ebay and run fairly cheap...
How IGT figured out how the MPU decides which pins to power up on a chip is beyond me.

It was just a natural evolution in boardmaking which eventually
led to PCMCIA flashcards, CD's and hard drives for data storage.

[poppo]

The M27C512's are my fav even though they're an overkill size-wise for the S+.
They're just more plentiful on ebay and run fairly cheap...
How IGT figured out how the MPU decides which pins to power up on a chip is beyond me.

It was just a natural evolution in boardmaking which eventually
led to PCMCIA flashcards, CD's and hard drives for data storage.

So are you saying you can use a 27512 for the reel chip on a 16Mhz MPU?

[stayouttadabunker]

So are you saying you can use a 27512 for the reel chip on a 16Mhz MPU?

yep! You can use them on a 10MHz MPU board as well...
You just have to move the socket jumpers on the boards that have them.
The only time I've ever moved the socket jumpers was when I was playing with Army chips.
They were of a low numbered SP such as SP050.
I think it was because they were burned onto 2764 eproms.

[poppo]

So are you saying you can use a 27512 for the reel chip on a 16Mhz MPU?

yep! You can use them on a 10MHz MPU board as well...
You just have to move the socket jumpers on the boards that have them.
The only time I've ever moved the socket jumpers was when I was playing with Army chips.
They were of a low numbered SP such as SP050.
I think it was because they were burned onto 2764 eproms.

I knew you could use them on the 10Mhz boards, and as mentioned the 27C512 'backup' chips are easier/cheaper to find. So all of my 10Mhz boards are jumpered for 27512s. I just didn't see a jumper on this board so I wasn't sure.

I won't be keeping this board long though. That 'buzz' will drive me crazy.  And I don't really want an odd duck.

[Buzz]

Now let's talk laminate or something to put over the tracking bar to cover all of those holes. I want something like on my round top that I can stick to the front. Anyone have any ideas of what to use and where to get it?




Ben   Is the guy to talk to. They will make any size to your spec's.  
 fanninislots@yahoo.com