S+ Lower candle fast flash, "0" in "Coins Paid" after clear????

[rilaw]

The door is not open (LOL), replaced the door optics, they work....  Just wanted to get that out of the way    

I am about to turn this thing into parts.... Its a DBL Red/White/Blue that I got in a lot.  It is missing the upper glass, had a bad coin optic (Replaced), a bad MPU board (Replaced) and the DBV won't cycle....  I replaced the battery on the new board, cleared it with the clear chip (During the clear it did not go to "2...0" when I turned the reset key, so I just pushed the reset button until it restarted and spun the reels).  Now it just sits with the lower candle flashing fast and a zero in coins paid.  I open and close the door, reels spin, then back to that....  I am about to gut it!!!        Any insight????  

Thanks...  If I do save it, I have to figure out the DBV, replace the upper glass, and convert it from $1 to .25cents (Already swapped the coin optic and cc)(Need hopper disc, coin head)


It does have the cool scrolling "This machine accepts $1 $5 $10 $etc..." LED decal across the front, which works...

[poppo]

.... and the DBV won't cycle....  

This part is probably easy. Bad BV power supply or wiring. The BV should cycle as long as it has power.

How do you know the door optics work? They may work but may be misaligned. The symptoms say the door is open.

[rilaw]

.... and the DBV won't cycle.... 

This part is probably easy. Bad BV power supply or wiring. The BV should cycle as long as it has power.

How do you know the door optics work? They may work but may be misaligned. The symptoms say the door is open.

Seems easy, yea...  I swapped in two other power supplys, no go on the BV...will check wiring if I get the machine up.  I unmounted the door optic, semi closed door, and held it to the machine side optic...so I can tell the optics are speaking..  Thx

[poppo]

Did you try keep pressing the self test button to run throught the complete set of tests? I seem to recall having a similar issue where it was 'stuck' until I did that.

[rilaw]

Just went into my 20 degree garage and cleared the board again (10th time I think), no luck...  When I open and shut the door the led coin paid goes blank, reels DON'T spin, and back to fast lower candle flash with a "0" in Coins Paid and "Insert coin" light solid.                 

[stayouttadabunker]

quote author=rilaw link=topic=11453.msg99357#msg99357 date=1297216868]
Just went into my 20 degree garage and cleared the board again...blah, blah, blah...
[/quote]

I'm pretty sure this has something to do with it...
Click on photo to enlarge if needed! >>>

[rilaw]

I'm pretty sure this has something to do with it...
Click on photo to enlarge if needed! >>>

LOL.... I was streaching it a tad, its actually 34 to be exact (19.6 outside)  
 I have eight slots out there right now (Under construction), two of the other S+'s work, this one and a DBL Diamond won't clear properly.  The other two cleared after a battery change fine, "By the book", these two bastards won't, arrr....  

[stayouttadabunker]

Okay,
Not now but when it's warmer in the garage...lol   Go and swap the MPU and
chips from a known working board into the problem machine and see if you get anywhere.
Don't work on machine under stress...remember, this is JUST a hobby!

Try to work on one machine at a time and work the crap out of it until you get it to your liking.
Swapping parts is always best.
At some point you end up with a small pile of junk.
If the mere fact that a machine doesn't go to a "2...0" causes you to throw out
machines out the backdoor - then at least wait until I can back up a truck to your place! 

[rilaw]

Okay,
Not now but when it's warmer in the garage...lol   Go and swap the MPU and
chips from a known working board into the problem machine and see if you get anywhere.
Don't work on machine under stress...remember, this is JUST a hobby!

Try to work on one machine at a time and work the crap out of it until you get it to your liking.
Swapping parts is always best.
At some point you end up with a small pile of junk.
If the mere fact that a machine doesn't go to a "2...0" causes you to throw out
machines out the backdoor - then at least wait until I can back up a truck to your place!  

LOL, its ok, I'm not stressed, just irritated..  Doh, no idea why I did not think of swapping in a board from one of the working ones,  Thanks, will do another day.  The only thing in common with these two is that they had battery leakage that got into the motherboard in the bottom of the cabinet.  I cleaned out what I could and did not see any visible damage, but still wonder.  As for "throwing it out", I actually saved it from going to the landfill along with the other hundreds of good and semi good machines that filled the tractor trailers heading for the dump.  Wish I could have saved more...    Really happy I saved my WMS "X Factor", that took approx 10min to fix and its really cool...

[coorslight115]

The door is not open (LOL), replaced the door optics, they work....  Just wanted to get that out of the way    

I am about to turn this thing into parts.... Its a DBL Red/White/Blue that I got in a lot.  It is missing the upper glass, had a bad coin optic (Replaced), a bad MPU board (Replaced) and the DBV won't cycle....  I replaced the battery on the new board, cleared it with the clear chip (During the clear it did not go to "2...0" when I turned the reset key, so I just pushed the reset button until it restarted and spun the reels).  Now it just sits with the lower candle flashing fast and a zero in coins paid.  I open and close the door, reels spin, then back to that....  I am about to gut it!!!        Any insight????  

Thanks...  If I do save it, I have to figure out the DBV, replace the upper glass, and convert it from $1 to .25cents (Already swapped the coin optic and cc)(Need hopper disc, coin head)


It does have the cool scrolling "This machine accepts $1 $5 $10 $etc..." LED decal across the front, which works...

When I use a clear123 I do not have to turn the reset key .....Put in the clear chip, turn on machine, push the reset and it count up and then counts up again. Turn off and replace chip???

[rilaw]

The door is not open (LOL), replaced the door optics, they work....  Just wanted to get that out of the way    

I am about to turn this thing into parts.... Its a DBL Red/White/Blue that I got in a lot.  It is missing the upper glass, had a bad coin optic (Replaced), a bad MPU board (Replaced) and the DBV won't cycle....  I replaced the battery on the new board, cleared it with the clear chip (During the clear it did not go to "2...0" when I turned the reset key, so I just pushed the reset button until it restarted and spun the reels).  Now it just sits with the lower candle flashing fast and a zero in coins paid.  I open and close the door, reels spin, then back to that....  I am about to gut it!!!        Any insight????  

Thanks...  If I do save it, I have to figure out the DBV, replace the upper glass, and convert it from $1 to .25cents (Already swapped the coin optic and cc)(Need hopper disc, coin head)


It does have the cool scrolling "This machine accepts $1 $5 $10 $etc..." LED decal across the front, which works...

When I use a clear123 I do not have to turn the reset key .....Put in the clear chip, turn on machine, push the reset and it count up and then counts up again. Turn off and replace chip???

Per the IGT "Ram Clear Instructions" after you pull the clear chip, reinstall the game chip, and install the board and clear the 61, its just a test sequence I think...  So in other words, it won't go through the test sequence I guess...

[poppo]

The only thing in common with these two is that they had battery leakage that got into the motherboard in the bottom of the cabinet.  I cleaned out what I could and did not see any visible damage, but still wonder.

I think this may be a clue. Any battery residue can cause all sorts of intermittent issues, especially is it's hidden between IC legs.

[coorslight115]

The door is not open (LOL), replaced the door optics, they work....  Just wanted to get that out of the way    

I am about to turn this thing into parts.... Its a DBL Red/White/Blue that I got in a lot.  It is missing the upper glass, had a bad coin optic (Replaced), a bad MPU board (Replaced) and the DBV won't cycle....  I replaced the battery on the new board, cleared it with the clear chip (During the clear it did not go to "2...0" when I turned the reset key, so I just pushed the reset button until it restarted and spun the reels).  Now it just sits with the lower candle flashing fast and a zero in coins paid.  I open and close the door, reels spin, then back to that....  I am about to gut it!!!        Any insight????  

Thanks...  If I do save it, I have to figure out the DBV, replace the upper glass, and convert it from $1 to .25cents (Already swapped the coin optic and cc)(Need hopper disc, coin head)


It does have the cool scrolling "This machine accepts $1 $5 $10 $etc..." LED decal across the front, which works...

When I use a clear123 I do not have to turn the reset key .....Put in the clear chip, turn on machine, push the reset and it count up and then counts up again. Turn off and replace chip???

Per the IGT "Ram Clear Instructions" after you pull the clear chip, reinstall the game chip, and install the board and clear the 61, its just a test sequence I think...  So in other words, it won't go through the test sequence I guess...

OK Put in clear chip, turn on machine and wait 30 seconds or so, press reset button machine counts up two times and stops. Turn off machine put game chip back in and turn on. You should get a 61, press the reset till you get a ding and 61-1. Close the door and turn the reset key. Game should initilize, reel spin and be ready to accept coin.

If no you probably have an optic issue

[rilaw]

The only thing in common with these two is that they had battery leakage that got into the motherboard in the bottom of the cabinet.  I cleaned out what I could and did not see any visible damage, but still wonder.

I think this may be a clue. Any battery residue can cause all sorts of intermittent issues, especially is it's hidden between IC legs.

No ic chips on the motherboard (The board mounted in the bottom of the case, not the MPU board).  There is a plastic protector over the board which gives some protection.  I vacuumed up all visible battery discharge and did not reuse the original MPU due to crap in ic legs etc...  Thx

[poppo]

If no you probably have an optic issue

He did say:
"I open and close the door, reels spin, then back to that....  "
So it would appear the optics are working.

[rilaw]

OK Put in clear chip, turn on machine and wait 30 seconds or so, press reset button machine counts up two times and stops. Turn off machine put game chip back in and turn on. You should get a 61, press the reset till you get a ding and 61-1. Close the door and turn the reset key. Game should initilize, reel spin and be ready to accept coin.

If no you probably have an optic issue

Thanks, but have done that 10+ times now....  I also tried unplugging the door optics and hardwired the connectors together, same freakin result....  Something is screwy...  I have also swapped optics from a known working machine and vice versa, ziltch....





Edited to fix a broken quote tag -KN

[poppo]

No ic chips on the motherboard (The board mounted in the bottom of the case, not the MPU board).  There is a plastic protector over the board which gives some protection.  I vacuumed up all visible battery discharge and did not reuse the original MPU due to crap in ic legs etc...  Thx

The EEPROM is mounted on the motherboard and if there is a communication problem with it, it can cause a problem. However, you would most likely get a 65_0. It's easy enough to swap out the motherboard just to be sure.

[rilaw]

No ic chips on the motherboard (The board mounted in the bottom of the case, not the MPU board).  There is a plastic protector over the board which gives some protection.  I vacuumed up all visible battery discharge and did not reuse the original MPU due to crap in ic legs etc...  Thx

The EEPROM is mounted on the motherboard and if there is a communication problem with it, it can cause a problem. However, you would most likely get a 65_0. It's easy enough to swap out the motherboard just to be sure.

Umm...  I was under the impression the "motherboard" was this:  http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rt=nc&nma=true&item=320649953879&si=ZFYbF1U8UcBo11QvYS275e2de68%253D&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT

And this is the "MPU" with the eeproms:  http://cgi.ebay.com/IGT-SLOT-MACHINE-16-MEG-MPU-BOARD-COVER-/140489277978?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20b5d0421a

(Sorry for the links, I have no pics)

So, in others words, Not really easy to swap out the motherboard, but real easy to swap out the MPU.. 

[coorslight115]

No ic chips on the motherboard (The board mounted in the bottom of the case, not the MPU board).  There is a plastic protector over the board which gives some protection.  I vacuumed up all visible battery discharge and did not reuse the original MPU due to crap in ic legs etc...  Thx

The EEPROM is mounted on the motherboard and if there is a communication problem with it, it can cause a problem. However, you would most likely get a 65_0. It's easy enough to swap out the motherboard just to be sure.

Umm...  I was under the impression the "motherboard" was this:  http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rt=nc&nma=true&item=320649953879&si=ZFYbF1U8UcBo11QvYS275e2de68%253D&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT

And this is the "MPU" with the eeproms:  http://cgi.ebay.com/IGT-SLOT-MACHINE-16-MEG-MPU-BOARD-COVER-/140489277978?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20b5d0421a

(Sorry for the links, I have no pics)

So, in others words, Not really easy to swap out the motherboard, but real easy to swap out the MPU.. 

That is  an S-plus motherboard and it has a small chip on it to the left

[poppo]

Umm...  I was under the impression the "motherboard" was this:  http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rt=nc&nma=true&item=320649953879&si=ZFYbF1U8UcBo11QvYS275e2de68%253D&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT

And this is the "MPU" with the eeproms:  http://cgi.ebay.com/IGT-SLOT-MACHINE-16-MEG-MPU-BOARD-COVER-/140489277978?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20b5d0421a

(Sorry for the links, I have no pics)

So, in others words, Not really easy to swap out the motherboard, but real easy to swap out the MPU.. 

The MPU has EPROMS and the CMOS. The motherboard has the EEPROM (circled below). There are only a couple of screws holding it in. Of course you have to remove the connectors, but it really only takes a few minutes.

[coorslight115]

While you are looking at the motherboard...This connector has known problems of over heating. Will not cause this problem but look at it while you are there

[coorslight115]

Just noticed you used a picture of a 16Mhz MPU Do you have a 16Mhz MPU or 10Mhz. Could be a chip speed issue

[StatFreak]

...Doh, no idea why I did not think of swapping in a board from one of the working ones,  Thanks, will do another day.
...

Did you try swapping MPU boards yet?  I would try these steps in order:

Make sure all harness connections to the motherboard and on the door, etc. are firmly seated and in good condition.
Make sure the infamous power harness connection to the motherboard is not burned or oxidized.
Then:
Swap SP and SS chips for known good ones from another game (theme doesn't matter) and see if you can clear the errors (without using a clear chip).
If that doesn't work, try a full clear and use the same known good replacement SP and SS chips. (Testing to see if your SP or SS chip(s) is/are damaged.)

If unsuccessful, swap the MPU board with a known good unit and try again.
If unsuccessful, swap BOTH the motherboard and the MPU boards with known good units.

Just my 2¢

Stat

[rilaw]

...Doh, no idea why I did not think of swapping in a board from one of the working ones,  Thanks, will do another day.
...

Did you try swapping MPU boards yet?  I would try these steps in order:

Make sure all harness connections to the motherboard and on the door, etc. are firmly seated and in good condition.
Make sure the infamous power harness connection to the motherboard is not burned or oxidized.
Then:
Swap SP and SS chips for known good ones from another game (theme doesn't matter) and see if you can clear the errors (without using a clear chip).
If that doesn't work, try a full clear and use the same known good replacement SP and SS chips. (Testing to see if your SP or SS chip(s) is/are damaged.)

If unsuccessful, swap the MPU board with a known good unit and try again.
If unsuccessful, swap BOTH the motherboard and the MPU boards.

Just my 2¢

Stat

Not yet (too cold and late), maybe tomorrow...  I will also try the rest of your ideas.  Thanks!  Fingers will be crossed, its prob something stupid I missed..

[StatFreak]

Just noticed you used a picture of a 16Mhz MPU Do you have a 16Mhz MPU or 10Mhz. Could be a chip speed issue

Good point. He never said what speed board he has. Rilaw, if you have a 16MHz board, you should also check to be sure that you're running a 16MHz SP chip in addition to checking the speed of the chips.