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Author Topic: HayWire S Plus MPU board burned components Help!  (Read 6391 times)
Eddie
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« on: March 06, 2011, 05:25:20 AM »

Some components just burned up out of the blue @ Q3,4,5and6 does anyone do board repair and or where is a good source for a new board thanks?
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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #1 on: March 06, 2011, 05:28:49 AM »

...where is a good source for a new board thanks?


Yeah.
Try asking for one in the "Classifieds" Section of NLG.
The vendors lurk in there ever day.
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poppo
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« Reply #2 on: March 06, 2011, 11:52:19 AM »

Some components just burned up out of the blue @ Q3,4,5and6 ...

Before sticking another board in there, you might want to see why those burned up. There is not much in common since they drive different lamps from the front to the candle, including one being a spare. Check the wiring harness on J1 on the mother board (the one in the left rear corner) for shorts or pinched wires..
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Eddie
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« Reply #3 on: March 06, 2011, 12:48:02 PM »

I just installed Replacement LEDs in the door panel and it appears that the LEdD in the coin comparitor were shorted. So the cause has been solved now onto getting a new board.
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cowboygames
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« Reply #4 on: March 06, 2011, 01:14:05 PM »

Get a 16mhx board, the function better and have better volume controls
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poppo
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« Reply #5 on: March 06, 2011, 01:23:13 PM »

I just installed Replacement LEDs in the door panel and it appears that the LEdD in the coin comparitor were shorted. So the cause has been solved now onto getting a new board.


Might want to read this thread
http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=8337.0
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poppo
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« Reply #6 on: March 06, 2011, 01:25:16 PM »

Get a 16mhx board, the function better and have better volume controls

If you like to listen to buzzing, and crappier sounds for many games.
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Eddie
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« Reply #7 on: March 06, 2011, 03:28:27 PM »

Here are pics of the Damgae to the board from the LEDs think it is repairable? Removing the components is no problem but will the board be to far gone at the traces?


* LED damage 1.JPG (976.83 KB, 1223x1075 - viewed 308 times.)

* LED Damage 3.JPG (627.62 KB, 1026x785 - viewed 275 times.)
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poppo
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« Reply #8 on: March 06, 2011, 03:57:39 PM »

Anything is repairable. Just depends on the person's skill level. Take an old toothbruch and some alcohol and clean up the area to see just how bad it is. But given the low price of S+ MPUs, it would be best to just replace it
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coorslight115
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« Reply #9 on: March 06, 2011, 05:17:38 PM »

Here are pics of the Damgae to the board from the LEDs think it is repairable? Removing the components is no problem but will the board be to far gone at the traces?

I would fix it if it was mine. Not a hard repair
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poppo
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« Reply #10 on: March 06, 2011, 05:31:52 PM »

I would fix it if it was mine. Not a hard repair

It looks like the board got hot all the way up to U8. So that IC could be toast too along with the resistor pack and the transistor(s). I agree that it is not a difficult repair, but would it cost more for the parts than to just buy another one? Even buying a scrap board (unless you have on on hand) will cost just as much to ship as a good one.
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cowboygames
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« Reply #11 on: March 06, 2011, 07:49:28 PM »

Only time I've gotten buzzing and crappy sound out of an s+ board was a 10mhx with a bad volume control. The 16s have always worked well. Maybe I'm just lucky that way, but nothing's ever been posted on here about sound problems with  the 16s either
Get a 16mhx board, the function better and have better volume controls

If you like to listen to buzzing, and crappier sounds for many games.
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poppo
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« Reply #12 on: March 06, 2011, 09:32:48 PM »

Maybe I'm just lucky that way, but nothing's ever been posted on here about sound problems with  the 16s either


The 16mhz humm is a well known problem on the S+ machines.


http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=8933.msg77097;topicseen#msg77097

For home use you're not going to want the 16mhz due to the static sound from the speaker.  In a noisy casino environment you can't hear it, but in your quiet basement you will and it'll be annoying.
« Last Edit: March 06, 2011, 09:51:39 PM by poppo » Logged
knagl
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« Reply #13 on: March 07, 2011, 03:35:25 AM »

but nothing's ever been posted on here about sound problems with  the 16s either

I disagree -- there have been plenty of posts in the past about noise/static with the 16mhz boards.  For what it's worth, my S+ Top Dollar has a 16mhz board and I don't really notice much noise, but it might be drowned out by the hefty fan in the top box.

In a casino or noisy environment, it'd be a non-issue, but in a quiet basement it's a different story.
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« Reply #14 on: March 07, 2011, 05:54:02 AM »

I stand corrected Hail
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« Reply #15 on: March 07, 2011, 08:55:50 AM »

but nothing's ever been posted on here about sound problems with  the 16s either

I disagree -- there have been plenty of posts in the past about noise/static with the 16mhz boards.  For what it's worth, my S+ Top Dollar has a 16mhz board and I don't really notice much noise, but it might be drowned out by the hefty fan in the top box.

In a casino or noisy environment, it'd be a non-issue, but in a quiet basement it's a different story.
Agree with Post

In addition, I wanted to add that you would have to get a new SP chip, because the two boards use different sets that are not interchangeable.

Of course, S+ boards are inexpensive enough that you could always get a 16MHz board and game chip just to try it out for yourself. You might find that you don't mind the digital static and like the faster credit roll ups, but keep in mind that most members prefer the 10MHz board.
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