Are the JCM Waffle type cards worth the added cost?

[twizz63]

I bought 15 JCM cleaning cards, even though I could have gotten 30 for what I paid. Are these worth the extra cost?

[stayouttadabunker]

We don't even know where to get them.
Most of us just use warm, soapy water and let it dry off...

[twizz63]

Well .....I guess that would be much cheaper....These were 33.00 for 15. I have a DBV-145......Should I upgrade to something else? It seems like it will only accept abot 20 % of all bills.

[stayouttadabunker]

Yeah...I'd go with the DBV-200.
I think the DBV-145 will only take the older bills that were made in the 80's...

The vendors on the top of this webpage will know all about which
particular ID coded chips and versions you'd need for your particular machine.
Give 'em a call!  

[twizz63]

Ok, I will do that. Thank you.

[KandS_Shane]

The answer to your question about whether the JCM Waffle type cards are worth the added cost depends on a number of factors. What does it cost you if you have a rejected note due to dirty lenses/sensors? How many rejected notes are you seeing (or lost transactions)? Multiply that times the cost of the lost transaction and see if the cards fit your budget.

Another thing to consider is that these cards were developed in conjunction with JCM in order to properly clean the JCM bill validators. These cards are a quick, very effective way of cleaning your validators. It takes less than a minute to clean without opening the machine.

If you are not the one who typically services the machine (that is you call a repairman) then these will save you that expense a great deal of the time. Like having a repairman in your pocket.

We are a distributor that can provide you excellent pricing on these cards - send us an email with your contact info and we can call you to give you special pricing: info@kandsenter.com

[AnotherTech]

I don't think that any of the "cleaning cards" are worth using on BVs.  I do use them on other things, though.

On the DBV (I would definitely get the DBV-200 if you haven't already), a moist cotton cloth for the optic lenses that contact the bill and compressed air for dust and junk between the lenses and the optics themselves is the best way to go.  A toothbrush for the wheels is good too.

The DBV-145 needs special equipment to calibrate and is not for most do-it-yourselfers.  The DBV-200 calibrates with only some dip switch settings and a special piece of paper called reference paper, or calibration paper.  It's like a long bill that's black on one end and white on the other.  I get them from Thomas Supply in Reno, but there are probably vendors here that can get them for you.  One piece of reference paper, if cared for properly, should last a home user many, many years.

Edited to add:  There are more than one type of reference paper.  The WBA and DBV-200 paper look very similar, but they are not the same.  The DBV-200 paper I have has "DBV-200 KS-046" printed on it. You don't want the one with "WBA KS-036" unless you have a WBA.

[stayouttadabunker]

Excellent info on these cleaning cards AT!
Kudos + to ya!
We learn something new everyday! 

[twizz63]

Thanks AT, I have swithed to DBV-200....But it still rejects a lot of bills.

[cowboygames]

I had a similar problem with a DBV200 a couple years ago and it wasn't the DBV head that was the problem, it was the transport that was bad. Did you change both? Also, a bad cash can will cause rejection problems also. If the bill doesn't "flow" throught the validator at a certain speed it'll get rejected. Slipage in the transport or can can will slow it down and kick the bill out. Slick transport belts caused this a lot on ATM machines years back when I was working on those

[twizz63]

OK thanks cowboy, I will take a look at transport and can.

[poppo]

I found the slick and stiff trasport belts to cause a lot of problems too. I got some Belt Ease and now they work great. The stuff really stinks, so it should be used in a well ventalated place. I spray some in the can lid (watch your eyes) and then use q-tips to apply it to the belts. You do NOT want to get this stuff on the optics, so I would not spray it directly on anything. It can be found at most auto stores for a few bucks.

[stayouttadabunker]

That's easier than taking all the belts off and boiling them in your wife's best boiling pot on the kitchen stove...