IGT MULTIPOKER: PE or PE+ ? How do you know ?

[coinopshop]

 How do you tell the difference between the two ? I have never worked on an IGT poker before. I would like to buy the manual for this thing so I could repair it.

 Mine will not coin-up, plus the middle hold button is non-responsive ( don't work ). Switch is good.

 I have 25 years of repair experience in the arcade industry, very little experience in the slot industry ( yet ).

 I can post a pic if needed.

 Thanks, Dave.

[jay]

Thats a PE+
I also beleive you have a superboard.
You can tell the difference between a superbaord and a non-superboard by the fact that it has both a program and data eprom spots.

[coinopshop]

Thanks Jay,

 I'm guessing the "superboard" is the better one to have ?

 My machine will accept a coin but won't put up any credits. I'm looking for a manual so I can get working on this thing since spring-time is right around the corner.

 Dave.

[jay]

 

The manual on these things are not particulary good. Check your email.

I don't know how much you know about these or machines so I will start at the basics, feel free to tune me in as you see fit as I mean no disrespect.

The first thing to look for is damaged door optics. WHen you close the door the game shows its status on the bottom of the monitor. You should see Restart Door-Closed. If it shows door open we need to start with that first as nothing else is worth looking at until you get a closed, closure or door closed message. If the door is not closed then all coins are rejected and they should be being returned to the tray. Depending on other mods and functions it may just go to the hopper but that is really secondary.

Assuming you have a closeure message .........

When you drop in a coin typically you go through a coin comparitor - assuming it gets past this test it then passes by a ABC optic. Then into the hopper.
A rejected coin is diverted by a rake - (divertor rake). This rake is held in the divert position by a solinoid that gets retracted when the machine accepts the coin.
Sometimes when these solinoids fail people wire-tie them back out of the way or simply bend them.  So it is not uncommon for coins to never be rejected to the coin tray.

Other times the comparitor is changed out for a manual mech made by Imonex (to use tokens). These are incapable of operating the electrical solinoid so the above "fix" is often used.

There are several different types of Coin Comparitors. The two most common are the CC16 (small coin - 1/2 dollar and smaller) or the CC33 (large coin dollar size and larger tokens).
If you have the CC16 you can see the CC16 written on the back and there is a lED - you will never see the LED go on as it only is on when the door is closed. Make sure there is a sample coin in the comparitor.
You may even want to reseat the coin. The CC33 is installed upside down and backwards. So you would need to unclip it to make sure of the model. Regardless of the model there should be a small wiring harness that plugs into the side. Make sure its plugged in. Again reseating is good.

When the coin passes this first test the solinoid retracts the hopper rake and allows the coin to pass otherwise it is supposed to fall into the coin tray vs the hopper.
The next test is the ABC optics. The reason its called ABC is that there are 3 optic sensors on a small board. The coin has to pass at a constant rate and in order triggering them A-B-C this is to prevent cheats pulling the coin back with a string or not letting it smoothly drop through. Alternatively if they are using a shim all 3 optics would be blocked - all of which will cause a Coin-In TILT and disable the game. Again this triggers the hopper rake to allow or deny the coin. IF you were using a IMONEX they often cut the Q4 transistor to disable this function.

In the setup of the game (note white test button) you get to a diagnostic screen and if you use a piece of cardboard you can slide it into the optics and see the 0's change to 1's

You can also give the game some test credits (with the door open) by pressing the small button on the back of the optic board. This will allow you to play the game while the door is open and allow you to diagnose button and other problems.

Please post back your results and we will try and help you get your game online.

[coinopshop]

 Thanks for the info.

 I am able to insert a coin and it falls all the way through to the hopper. I do not believe I have a coin acceptor issue here. There is not a messege at the bottom of the screen.

 

[jay]

If you are not hearing a brief "DING" and registering a credit then the coin has not been accepted.....

Before you can rule anything out we need to clarify the basics..........

Turn off the machine, turn on the machine.

You should at least get the message restart on the bottom left.
On the right side should show door open.

When you pressed the tiny button on the coin optics did you get a credit ??

If you press the white Test/Setup button does it go through various screens until it comes back to the main screen or is the machine just hung ?

[coinopshop]

 Thanks again Jay,

 It's been too cold here lately to plug the machine in ( it's outside ). Today looks promissing though and I'll try the two points mentioned above and get back to you on my findings.

 Thank you,
  Dave.

[coinopshop]

 After doing some more troubleshooting, here's where I am at.

Open door "door open" is on left of screen.
Pushing the white "credit" button on the optic pcb does nothing.
Putting the game in self-test reveals coin optic A-B-C all read "1" or closed.
Coin Out also reads "1" closed.
 By unplugging the 10-pin connector from the coin optic pcb, A-B-C now read open.

One STRANGE thing. If I slide a cardboard through the coin optics, optic B reads "0" ( ???? )

 ***UPDATE*** (3:00pm )

 After further troubleshooting I am most positive I have a connector issue. The larger 2 "black connectors" which the entire coin unit housing is over. I am going to swap it out with a 9-pin molex connector and see if that helps.
 With some "wiggling of these wires" I did get it to accept and play. Stay tuned....
 

[jay]

Excellent news !

[coinopshop]

Well...now I'm not so sure.

I replaced ( by-passed ) the black connector with a 9-pin molex and the problem remains the same. It seems as if the coin B is the only one correctly responsive to me inserting a peice of cardboard to activate it. The coin C starts to be responsive the longer the game is powered up it seems ( connector issue on pcb perhaps ? ). The coin A is just 90% of the time non-responsive. What makes it work once in a great while ....that's where the myserty remains.

 This is a true baffler.

[Jim]

If you are getting all 1's  on the test screen for the coin in a,b,c, that's normal.   when you press the white test button on the optic board only "b" should change.  the three optics are not in a straight line, they are offset from one another, it best to unplug the optics, remove the screws that hold the outer optic board and encoder in place and look at what I am saying, plus you could blow out the holes on the encoder(dust). then when you do the cardboard test you can determine exactly which optic you are working with.  as soon as power is applied they should work- no warm up time is necessary.you have to do this test slowly, do one optic at a time. we are working with digital electronics, its either on or off or broke.  I don't have a schematic for a slant top.  I do have one for a upright, hopefully they end up at the same connector on the motherboard.
optic A  is pin 4 of p50 goes to p301 pin 4 to p203 pin 7  to mb j3  pin 20  to logic board connector to rp1  (resistor pack 1 510 ohms )
optic B  is pin 3                                    5                  9                     21
optic C          1                                    2                  5                     22

Jim

[coinopshop]

 Thanks Jim.

 I did already take apart and clean the 3 optics mentioned. I do no  longer think I have an  optic issue. Only more troubleshooting will tell for sure. I just purchased a manual with schematics, I am awaiting it's arrival to further troubleshoot.

 Dave.

[Jim]

here is the long and short.  if the game comes on, you can get into the test screens, you can preform and test every feature that the machine will do, if it does all this ,then in theory, when you close the main door the game should be ready to play. if there are any fault codes on the machine by closing the main door they should be reset ,  and at the least you should be able to put credits on the machine via the optics push button and play the game. if the game does play in this mode, and not in the closed mode then you have door optics problems, but the door optics can be tested in the test screen mode. sometimes on slanttops there are more than one set of optics (door) that will control the signal. e.g. access door to the board and hopper, sometimes even the drop door.

I would concentrate on getting the game to operate with the door open first, then at least you know all your input and output  are working etc.  Like I said earlier, you can test every function of that machine using the test screens, just cycle thru each one and preform all the tests. you don't need a manual to accomplish this.

Jim

[coinopshop]

UPDATE:

 After purchasing another A-B-C coin pcb my machine now "works" ! I say "works" cause it will accept coins now. NEXT is the dollar bill unit which is completely dead. I believe it is all original but I didn;t take it out to look at the brand.  After I do some troubleshooting, if needed, I will open a new thread with any further problems. THANKS FOR EVERYONE'S HELP ON MY COIN PROBLEM.

 After playing my machine for a few mins. I got 5 ACES and the machine went bonkers...JACKPOT !!!! The neighbors thought the ice-cream truck was in town with all the sounds and music the game was playing ( LOL ! )

 Thanks again,
  Dave
  COINOPSHOP

[Jim]

you may find this to be some interesting reading, as you get ready to tackle your next problem.

http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=11332.90


Jim