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Author Topic: 3V soldered in yellow battery  (Read 9550 times)
PLUNGER BOY
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« on: May 10, 2011, 11:05:36 PM »
I have a low main battery upon start up on a s2000 it has a yellow soldered in 3V battery i think? is this to be replaced with another soldered in type or is there another alternative. attached is a pic. also can i remove green battery without any other modification thanks.

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cowboygames
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« Reply #1 on: May 10, 2011, 11:54:08 PM »
The yellow battery IS your main battery. When I replace them I've been getting the slide holders like they use on computer motherboards and going with the cheaper slide in batteries
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erbs
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« Reply #2 on: May 10, 2011, 11:56:59 PM »
The yellow battery can be replaced with a battery holder ( it will have to be soldered in ) so you can use a slip in battery. I use part # 122-2523 for  the holder & # 658-cr2354 both available from Mouser Electronics. As for the green battery DEFINITELY REMOVE IT. IT WILL RUIN YOUR BOARD IN TIME WHEN IT LEAKS. What I do is unscrew the board from the case so I can unsolder the negative side from the battery. Then pull the battery up from the top and use scissors or cutters to cut the battery loose leaving a jumper across the 2 positive terminals. Or you can remove the battery and solder a jumper across the 2 pos terminals. I have ran into problems with several machines when I removed the battery and left no jumper. Providing your battery has not leaked much. If you have corrosion you will have to clean it off.  Hope this helps.     
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PLUNGER BOY
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« Reply #3 on: May 11, 2011, 12:42:32 AM »
Thanks cowboygames and (erbs ) for the part # link to mouser i have an account with them and will order multiple holders/ and battery's. having 20 machines i will probably run into this again  thanks again guys
 
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erbs
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« Reply #4 on: May 11, 2011, 11:32:33 AM »
Your very welcome, glad to help out. wave
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Tilt
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« Reply #5 on: May 12, 2011, 12:31:42 AM »
Quote from: erbs on May 10, 2011, 11:56:59 PM
The yellow battery can be replaced with a battery holder ( it will have to be soldered in ) so you can use a slip in battery. I use part # 122-2523 for  the holder & # 658-cr2354 both available from Mouser Electronics. As for the green battery DEFINITELY REMOVE IT. IT WILL RUIN YOUR BOARD IN TIME WHEN IT LEAKS. What I do is unscrew the board from the case so I can unsolder the negative side from the battery. Then pull the battery up from the top and use scissors or cutters to cut the battery loose leaving a jumper across the 2 positive terminals. Or you can remove the battery and solder a jumper across the 2 pos terminals. I have ran into problems with several machines when I removed the battery and left no jumper. Providing your battery has not leaked much. If you have corrosion you will have to clean it off.  Hope this helps.     

erbs,

I agree with everything except for the jumper across the + terminals.  I've removed the nicad from every machine that has passed my way, never installed a jumper, and never had a problem.  In looking at the board itself the one labeled with a + sign has a trace that goes on the board, the other appears to be nothing more than a physical mounting point.  There's no trace going from it to anywhere else on the board.  So installing a jumper across it would do nothing.  A bridge to no-where.  The schematics don't show a second point for the + side of the battery either. 

I've heard there are issues with removing the nicad from an enhanced S2K board, and maybe those need a jumper if removing it?  I don't have any experience with them, but you don't need one for a 502/504 board which is what Plunger Boy posted a picture of.
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Foster
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« Reply #6 on: May 12, 2011, 12:57:58 AM »
I disconnected the negative side of the battery from an enhanced board.
The board would cycle the LED's and the VFD would pass its test then maybe display "Display Netplex Link Down"

I have 2 boards (one in the machine and a spare without tray.
I used the spare for the test.
I had to move the legacy board and CMOS battery to the spare board
I then cleared any tilts and played the machine with the spare board installed.
Pulled the board and de-soldered the negative terminal from the board and placed an insulator between the terminal and the board.
It would not boot or display any other tilts.
I soldered the terminal back into place board worked just fine.
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« Reply #7 on: May 12, 2011, 01:14:53 AM »
Good job Foster, finally an answer applause I guess the 3 replacements I bought for my enhanced boards was money well spent yes +1 (Karma, or whatever)
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Tilt
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« Reply #8 on: May 12, 2011, 01:22:58 AM »
Yeah, thanks Foster, that's good to know.  I don't have schematics for the enhanced board, but hopefully there's a fairly simple work around for having to use the leak prone rechargeable batteries on those boards for home users?   
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« Reply #9 on: May 12, 2011, 01:40:35 AM »
Quote from: Tilt on May 12, 2011, 12:31:42 AM
Quote from: erbs on May 10, 2011, 11:56:59 PM
The yellow battery can be replaced with a battery holder ( it will have to be soldered in ) so you can use a slip in battery. I use part # 122-2523 for  the holder & # 658-cr2354 both available from Mouser Electronics. As for the green battery DEFINITELY REMOVE IT. IT WILL RUIN YOUR BOARD IN TIME WHEN IT LEAKS. What I do is unscrew the board from the case so I can unsolder the negative side from the battery. Then pull the battery up from the top and use scissors or cutters to cut the battery loose leaving a jumper across the 2 positive terminals. Or you can remove the battery and solder a jumper across the 2 pos terminals. I have ran into problems with several machines when I removed the battery and left no jumper. Providing your battery has not leaked much. If you have corrosion you will have to clean it off.  Hope this helps.     

erbs,

I agree with everything except for the jumper across the + terminals.  I've removed the nicad from every machine that has passed my way, never installed a jumper, and never had a problem.  In looking at the board itself the one labeled with a + sign has a trace that goes on the board, the other appears to be nothing more than a physical mounting point.  There's no trace going from it to anywhere else on the board.  So installing a jumper across it would do nothing.  A bridge to no-where.  The schematics don't show a second point for the + side of the battery either. 

I've heard there are issues with removing the nicad from an enhanced S2K board, and maybe those need a jumper if removing it?  I don't have any experience with them, but you don't need one for a 502/504 board which is what Plunger Boy posted a picture of.



If you are removing a rechargeable battery from a game board (NiCD, NiMH, or Lion) you MUST MUST MUST disable the charging circuit or risk the replacement non-rechargeable coin cell rupturing and damaging the board.

I've not looked at these game boards... but on the Neo Geo arcade game it's as simple as removing a 470 ohm resistor from the board. It goes between +5v and the battery. You should have something similar on your boards if you have a rechargeable battery on it.

RJ
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Tilt
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« Reply #10 on: May 12, 2011, 02:07:13 AM »
Quote from: channelmaniac on May 12, 2011, 01:40:35 AM
Quote from: Tilt on May 12, 2011, 12:31:42 AM
Quote from: erbs on May 10, 2011, 11:56:59 PM
The yellow battery can be replaced with a battery holder ( it will have to be soldered in ) so you can use a slip in battery. I use part # 122-2523 for  the holder & # 658-cr2354 both available from Mouser Electronics. As for the green battery DEFINITELY REMOVE IT. IT WILL RUIN YOUR BOARD IN TIME WHEN IT LEAKS. What I do is unscrew the board from the case so I can unsolder the negative side from the battery. Then pull the battery up from the top and use scissors or cutters to cut the battery loose leaving a jumper across the 2 positive terminals. Or you can remove the battery and solder a jumper across the 2 pos terminals. I have ran into problems with several machines when I removed the battery and left no jumper. Providing your battery has not leaked much. If you have corrosion you will have to clean it off.  Hope this helps.    

erbs,

I agree with everything except for the jumper across the + terminals.  I've removed the nicad from every machine that has passed my way, never installed a jumper, and never had a problem.  In looking at the board itself the one labeled with a + sign has a trace that goes on the board, the other appears to be nothing more than a physical mounting point.  There's no trace going from it to anywhere else on the board.  So installing a jumper across it would do nothing.  A bridge to no-where.  The schematics don't show a second point for the + side of the battery either.  

I've heard there are issues with removing the nicad from an enhanced S2K board, and maybe those need a jumper if removing it?  I don't have any experience with them, but you don't need one for a 502/504 board which is what Plunger Boy posted a picture of.



If you are removing a rechargeable battery from a game board (NiCD, NiMH, or Lion) you MUST MUST MUST disable the charging circuit or risk the replacement non-rechargeable coin cell rupturing and damaging the board.

I've not looked at these game boards... but on the Neo Geo arcade game it's as simple as removing a 470 ohm resistor from the board. It goes between +5v and the battery. You should have something similar on your boards if you have a rechargeable battery on it.

RJ

RJ,

I hear you, but in this case we're not replacing a rechargeable battery with a non-rechargeable one.  There are two batteries on a 501/502/504 S2000 MPU board.  One is a 3v non-rechargeable lithium coin cell soldered to the MPU board.  This is the main battery for the MPU and holds the CMOS memory when the MPU is without power.  The second is Varta 3.6v NiMH rechargeable battery that maintains power to certain security related circuits (telltale) when the machine is without power (main door, cash can door, logic door, card cage, etc).  This is the one that will eventually leak and damage the circuit board.  For home users, it's a simple solution, remove it before it causes any damage, or periodically replace it before it leaks.  The former is the cheapest and easiest for most folks.  I suppose if you suspected the kids (or other gremlins) were stealing your change (or tokens) out of it in the middle of the night the telltale battery and circuits may come in handy.  For most ... probably not.
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Buzz
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« Reply #11 on: May 12, 2011, 04:40:00 AM »
Quote from: Tilt on May 12, 2011, 01:22:58 AM
Yeah, thanks Foster, that's good to know.  I don't have schematics for the enhanced board, but hopefully there's a fairly simple work around for having to use the leak prone rechargeable batteries on those boards for home users?   



Tilt  Blue Ridge told me not to remove the green battery from a enhanced board, I did anyway to prove him wrong, he wasn't wrong.  The battery was dead anyway so I soldered in a 3.6 V that I had for S+ machines.  The machine will work with the green battery dead, might be possible to just solder a jumper from pos to neg.
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reho33
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« Reply #12 on: May 12, 2011, 12:56:14 PM »
To be honest with you, I used a cordless phone battery as they are mostly 3.6 volts on the nose. Since they are so big and have more capacity than a button battery, the battery will probably outlive the slot. I have one in my Bally 5500 as it is a known fact that they eat batteries like mad so we will see how long it lasts.
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« Reply #13 on: May 12, 2011, 04:48:35 PM »
Tilt,  Not sure what boards I had, Scratch Head but awhile back I had 2 machines that would not work with the green battery removed. no I had removed the battery, started the machine, reels spun, reel 1 & 2 stopped reel 3 kept spinning. Error came up ( don't remember what the error was ) so I cleared the machine and keyed. Same thing so I soldered back in the battery machine worked fine. Wanting to eliminate the battery I then unsoldered the neg and cut across the 2 pos leaving the jumper. Both machines worked and are still working today????  applause I remember there were a few different errors that came up for both machines when I had removed the batteries.
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Foster
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« Reply #14 on: May 12, 2011, 11:38:31 PM »
That is what was happening to a board I pulled the battery out as well it would have random reel tilts.
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« Reply #15 on: May 12, 2011, 11:39:43 PM »
Out of curiosity anyone got an exact weight on a 502 board with tray?
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« Reply #16 on: May 13, 2011, 12:24:49 AM »
3#s 5.6 oz without the multimedia board.
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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #17 on: May 13, 2011, 01:29:57 AM »
Quote from: Foster on May 12, 2011, 11:39:43 PM
Out of curiosity anyone got an exact weight on a 502 board with tray?

Now why would anyone want to know what that weighs?  Scratch Head 2
Are you making a carbon fiber tray?  rotflmao
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Foster
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« Reply #18 on: May 13, 2011, 01:33:26 AM »
No I am selling a couple of boards and trays.
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« Reply #19 on: May 13, 2011, 01:33:45 AM »
Not enough info.  How many screws holding board to tray ??????????????
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