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Author Topic: I got a S+ machine that I can't get past a 61-1 code  (Read 15885 times)
BR549 Auto Sales
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« on: May 10, 2011, 11:44:22 PM »

I turn this machine on, get the 61 code, I press the white test button for 3 sec, get the 61-1, close the door & turn reset key one time, but it just stays on 61-1. I just got this machine so I may need to do a bv set, any ideas?

Thanks,

David
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reho33
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« Reply #1 on: May 11, 2011, 12:13:05 AM »

I know that on an S+ that I owned that the optics on the door were bad, once replaced, the 61-1 cleared. The machine needs to see the "Door Closed" condition before the 61-1 will clear
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** NOTE: The information contained in any of my posts relating to slot machine ownership and use is information that I have gathered from publicly known sources correspondingly under the same protections of Free Speech governed under the Laws of the United States and Canada and is for informational use only. As is my Constitutional Right under United States and Canadian Laws the redistribution of said information is considered a form of free speech. Using this information in the United States or Canada to conduct illegal gambling in states/provinces where it is unlawful has been declared against the law in those states/jurisdictions and as such I do not advocate the illegal use of such information under both the United States and Canadian Laws. All references and examples of personal experiences are hypothetical in nature, and it is up to you to determine if the information presented is applicable to your situation or not**
BR549 Auto Sales
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« Reply #2 on: May 11, 2011, 01:08:30 AM »

Is there a way to bypass these door optics?
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poppo
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« Reply #3 on: May 11, 2011, 01:10:23 AM »

Yes, check the door optics. And of course check your reset switch too.
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BR549 Auto Sales
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« Reply #4 on: May 11, 2011, 01:12:40 AM »

How do I check the optics and the reset switch?
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poppo
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« Reply #5 on: May 11, 2011, 01:32:18 AM »

Most likely it is the optics, but you should check the reset switch too. Make sure the wires are actually connected to it. Then if you have a meter just measure across the contacts for continuity when you turn it (with power off). If you don't have a meter, you can wrap two pieces of thin wire around the contacts and run them out the bottom of the door (with it closed) and then short them to see if the 61_1 clears. Or unscrew the reset switch and pull it out of the side so you can short the contacts.

Look for broken wires on the door optics (both emitter and receiver). A video camera viewfinder can often be used to check if the emitter is working.

Do a search for bypass door optics for more ideas and how to bypass them if you have to. Of course if you have another machine, you can borrow the ones from it.
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« Reply #6 on: May 11, 2011, 01:52:36 AM »

I just tried a set of working door optics from another one of my working S+ machines, same results. The optics were bad, the wires were broken at the base of the optics. Sin ce I have a set of working ones now, what else could I check? I know the reset key is working because when I power the machine up and close the door, I can turn the key and it goes through the sequence of numbers on the displays until I get to the end, then it goes back to showing 61.
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Foster
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« Reply #7 on: May 11, 2011, 01:54:05 AM »

How you bypass the optics on a S+.
1 Unplug both optics.
2 connect wire between the purple wire of the door optic harness to the red wire in hte cabinet optic harness.

If it persists then this one time a clear chip is needed.
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« Reply #8 on: May 11, 2011, 02:14:28 AM »

I have misplaced my instruction sheet on how to clear then set my bv, can someone tell me this process?

Thanks,

David
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« Reply #9 on: May 11, 2011, 03:20:52 AM »

I tried another working cpu board and changed the optics, now it initializes, reels spin, but won't take a coin and bottom light of the candle is flashing and insert coin is flashing and there is a "0" in the coins played window. What could I try next?
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poppo
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« Reply #10 on: May 11, 2011, 09:53:18 AM »

I tried another working cpu board and changed the optics, now it initializes, reels spin, but won't take a coin and bottom light of the candle is flashing and insert coin is flashing and there is a "0" in the coins played window. What could I try next?

The flashing insert coin, candle and 0 are normal depending on the SP chip. They will stop flashing after the first game is played.

With the door open you can press the white button on the coin optic board and it should add a credit and you should be able to play it.

Next, check all of your coin comparator wiring. Of course make sure there is coin or token in it the same as what you are trying to play. You may even want to replace it. If that is ok, try turning the sensitivity dial back and forth a few times to help it make better contact. Then turn it all the way CCW and then CW just a hair.

Let us know the results.
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« Reply #11 on: May 11, 2011, 10:57:00 AM »

I pressed the small white button, it added a credit, I closed the door and played it. The bottom light on the candle is still flashing and it won't accept a coin. I even tried a known working coin mech, same results. I also turned the dial on the coin mech all the way CCW then CW just a bit. Should the green led on the coin mech be on?
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poppo
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« Reply #12 on: May 11, 2011, 11:32:29 AM »

Should the green led on the coin mech be on?


You won't see the green light unless the door is closed.

Is the bottom candle lamp flashing fast or slow? Check to make sure all other switches are closed (i.e. cash door etc).

<edit> I just checked mine and the candle will still flash until a real credit is played.  You may want to try bypassing the CC rake if the coins are dropping to the tray. If they are dropping to the hopper, then your coin optics are probably bad.

If it's the optics, see this thread
http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=3882.0
« Last Edit: May 11, 2011, 11:45:17 AM by poppo » Logged
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Kevin


« Reply #13 on: May 11, 2011, 04:55:14 PM »

I have misplaced my instruction sheet on how to clear then set my bv, can someone tell me this process?


Here's the clear chip procedure:

Install the ram clear in the GAME PROM socket.

Power machine on.

Press self test switch twice.

Meter on door counts up to 2 - 999.

Power off and replace ram clear with original SP.


...and here's how to enable the bill validator:

http://www.newlifegames.net/spset/dbv.htm
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« Reply #14 on: May 11, 2011, 05:28:53 PM »

I think that's what I did on my S+ bypassed optics, RAM cleared machine (I think it counts to 256 to 0 or the other way around)? then got past 61-1 (ding) and we were playing!
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Jim
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« Reply #15 on: May 11, 2011, 06:57:33 PM »

before I say anything---  tell me what you know for sure!!    you have a good board? your optics are good?   machine still doesn't work!

if your board is good, and you can get into the test menu, then you can test the optics and know for sure that they are working.  form what you described putting a credit on the machine using the test switch on the optic board, closing the door and playing machine IS NOT CORRECT. if you closed the door (latch down) the credit should disappear. REASON-- optics are good and it is now resetting the machine, goodbye credit.

why don't you put the known good board in the machine, test the door optics, and determine if they are good!,  sounds like you have an open door optic loop, meaning that the cash can door switch may not be bypassed or other. 

try this first

Jim   
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« Reply #16 on: May 11, 2011, 07:06:19 PM »

Also check the belly door switch is there  or jumper is installed as well.
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poppo
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« Reply #17 on: May 11, 2011, 07:40:51 PM »

form what you described putting a credit on the machine using the test switch on the optic board, closing the door and playing machine IS NOT CORRECT. if you closed the door (latch down) the credit should disappear. REASON-- optics are good and it is now resetting the machine, goodbye credit.

Jim,

I assumed his door optics were now working because after he swapped the door optics and MPU he was able to clear the 61_1. If the door optics were still bad would't he still be stuck with the 6_1? I want to think he really didn't close the door to play the test credit.

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« Reply #18 on: May 11, 2011, 11:32:55 PM »

i know the door optics are good and so is the mpu, both from one of my working machines. You said that the credit I get from pressing the white button on the coin optic area should disappear when i shut the door, but it did not, it allowed me to play the credit. From what I can tell, the cashbox optics have been bypassed, a blue and a blue with orange trace have been twisted together and shrink tubing around those 2 wires. Someone said something about a belly glass switch may be showing open, how would i check for that?

Thanks,

David
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poppo
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« Reply #19 on: May 11, 2011, 11:44:31 PM »

i know the door optics are good and so is the mpu, both from one of my working machines. You said that the credit I get from pressing the white button on the coin optic area should disappear when i shut the door, but it did not, it allowed me to play the credit.

Try it again, but make sure you are pusing the door latch down all of the way. As Jim mentioned, the machine should reset if the optics are seeing each other. That happens when the latch is pushed down. If you are not pushing the latch down all of the way, it is still 'open'.

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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #20 on: May 11, 2011, 11:44:50 PM »

"..., it allowed me to play the credit."

That means the machine hasn't sensed that the door is physically closed yet.
Are the optics aligned with each other?

Someone said something about a belly glass switch may be showing open, how would i check for that?
Thanks,
David

Not all machines actually have this belly door switch.
Does yours have one?
If not, I would swap MPU's. I'm suspecting that there's a an open triac on the board.

Do you have a spare MPU to try?
If not, there are many deals on ebay for plain MPU's...

You may need one if you happen to mistakenly try to shove in
an MPU - while the power switch to the machine is on.
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« Reply #21 on: May 11, 2011, 11:46:51 PM »

Bunker, he already has a known good MPU in there.

"i know the door optics are good and so is the mpu, both from one of my working machines"

And as noted earlier, the door optics must have worked at some point for him to clear the 61_1 he originally was stuck on.
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Jim
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« Reply #22 on: May 12, 2011, 12:01:25 AM »

that's why I always ask to use the diagnostic test in the machine. it will tell you in 5 seconds if your door optic loop is working. no fooling around with cameras or doing this or doing that . the test will tell all, then, if it is bad you can troubleshoot from there.  

test # 13 in the input tests will do this.



Jim
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« Reply #23 on: May 12, 2011, 12:08:55 AM »

that's why I always ask to use the diagnostic test in the machine. it will tell you in 5 seconds if your door optic loop is working. no fooling around with cameras or doing this or doing that . the test will tell all, then, if it is bad you can troubleshoot from there. 

Question though. Originally he was stuck with the 61_1 that he could not clear probably due to the original bad optics. Doesn't that prevent you from getting into the self test to do the test? Sort of a catch 22?
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Jim
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« Reply #24 on: May 12, 2011, 12:33:35 AM »

most times even with a tilt code you can still get into the test menus, the only one that I could never get by was the 3300 code.

especially when they replaced the optics and mpu board, the machine still wouln't accept a coin, it would coin up using the  optic button, but with the door closed it would still play the credit, that's not normal, anytime you put credits on the machine with the door open they will be cleared by virtue of the door being closed and the optics acting as a reset.


Jim
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