IGT S+ Slant Top Needs Some Fix'n

[poppo]

Pull out the CMOS chip and rub all the legs on something metal like a butter knife - trying to ground out the legs.
That sometimes screws up the data in the CMOS just enough so that when you re-installed it - the machine is forced to re-write the CMOS data.

This is another 'myth'. Once you pull the CMOS, it will lose it's memory. Unless the chip has it's own built in backup, grounding the legs really does nothing. Of course it won't hurt anything either. But if it appears to work, it is only coincidence.

Now that said, I do recall seeing some odd looking CMOS chips on some S+ boards. Typically the CMOS will be a 6264 static ram that has zero retention after losing backup power. But some CMOS chips looked like they had some sort of case over them that 'might' house some sort of secondary backup capacitor or something. I don't have any of those left, so I can't pull it apart to see.

[GSD Dan]

The replacement board I got had a cap (as you describe) over the CMOS chip. I did replace the cap and chip with the one in my old board. Should I swap them back and give it a try?

[poppo]

It can't hurt.

Now what happens is data is normally stored in the CMOS. Every so often that data is copied to the EEPROM located on the mother board (the board that the MPU plugs into). When you power up the machine, the data is compared between the two. If it does not match you will get a 61 error meaning the CMOS did not match the EEPROM. Normally this is cleared by pressing the self test button to get 61_1 which re-copies the date from the EEPROM to the CMOS. The 61_1 is then cleared by closing the door and turning the reset key.

Now sometimes people get stuck in a 61 loop. Using a clear chip will erase the EEPROM and CMOS and fix the problem. Sometimes changing game chips (which also causes at least a partial EEPROM re-write) can also fix it. Pulling the CMOS 'might' fix it if the data was corrupt in some way that clearing the 61 normally does not fix.

[GSD Dan]

Good deal, like I said before, I swapped all 6 chips from old to new board. I'm guessing I didn't have to. I'll do as you recommended when I get home. Thx

[stayouttadabunker]

Sometimes these CMOS chips have a black plastic casing/cover that goes over the chip.
That's exactly what it is - a cover. It's nothing else really.
So yes, this may be a "myth"...lol
But one thing for sure - it doesn't hurt to try because I have heard from reputable members that this DOES work!
I must admit though - I've tried the "butter knife" trick myself and haven't had any success with it really.

When stuck in the [61] "loop" - the only way out is to clear both chips at the same time
( the CMOS U51 or U56 chip depending on MPU board version & the motherboard's 8-pin 24C04 chip)
- utilizing a clear chip.

OMG Did I actually say "Use a Clear chip?!?!?" 

I hope I don't get hammered by Blueridge for suggesting this! 

[poppo]

Sometimes these CMOS chips have a black plastic casing/cover that goes over the chip.
That's exactly what it is - a cover. There's nothing else really.

Well, that answers that. Although I wonder what the purpose of it is. 

But one thing for sure - it doesn't hurt to try because I have heard from reputable members that this DOES work!

It may work, but I'm sure it would work just as well if the chip is just pulled and plugged back in. It's sort of like saying that you need to unscrew a light bulb and then short out the contacts to make it stop glowing. 

[stayouttadabunker]

lol...I understand but you HAVE to use the butterknife! Nothing else will work!!    just kidding...!!

[poppo]

Yep. It needs the smooth surface for those pesky electrons to slide off.  

[slots4home]

I have had that problem with the slnt tops before and it was the motherboard, that little chip go out on them and will not allow you to cllear a 61 code.

[StatFreak]

I have had that problem with the slnt tops before and it was the motherboard, that little chip go out on them and will not allow you to cllear a 61 code.

Darell, do you mean that the EEPROM chip physically/electrically fails?  I think members have posted of that happening, but not very often.   I would try a full clear before replacing the EEPROM, but I've been wrong before.



GSD Dan, you were right that you didn't need to swap all six chips -- just the two labeled ones (Game and Reel).

[GSD Dan]

I just tried swaping the CMOS chip and I was able to get the error code 61-1 (twice). But when I closed the door (snugly I might add) and turned the key, I got a blank pad then the 61 came back. So at least its spit'n and sputter'n. I'm hoping my set and clear chips come in tomorrow. If so, can I assume that:
1) I woulld power down and unplug the machine
2) insert clear chip into the CMOS slot
3) re-insert the board
4) plug in and power up the machine
5) depress the the test button
6) power down and unplug machine
7) Reinstall old CMOS Chip
8) then bring her back to life for another round of fun

Am I close? I'm of the understanding that everything including the BV will have to be reset for home use using Statfreak's procedure for the "SP1271 family set of game chips" or is there some other procedure I should be following?

[poppo]

I just tried swaping the CMOS chip and I was able to get the error code 61-1 (twice). But when I closed the door (snugly I might add) and turned the key, I got a blank pad then the 61 came back.

Have to ask - are you latching the door too?  The optics need to line up, and that only happens if the latch is all the way down.

[GSD Dan]

I'm absolutely sure, it seats perfectly and tight. Now for the optics, I looked at both the door and base unit and they look clean and nothing out of the ordinary.

Dont forget, I bought unit after the old owner had it sitting in his garage broken for few months. He told me the board was bad evident by the burn through he made by trying to unsolder a chip. So I could have other issues as well.

[StatFreak]

I just tried swaping the CMOS chip and I was able to get the error code 61-1 (twice). But when I closed the door (snugly I might add) and turned the key, I got a blank pad then the 61 came back. So at least its spit'n and sputter'n. I'm hoping my set and clear chips come in tomorrow. If so, can I assume that:

1) I woulld power down and unplug the machine Won't hurt, but overkill.
2) insert clear chip into the CMOS slot  Game Chip slot
3) re-insert the board
4) plug in and power up the machine
5) depress the the test button    Depends on the type of clear chip you get. You might have to press the test button (it won't hurt).
                                                    It should do a count in the display, but some types don't.
6) power down and unplug machine
7) Reinstall old CMOS Chip   Game chip
8) then bring her back to life for another round of fun

Am I close? I'm of the understanding that everything including the BV will have to be reset for home use using Statfreak's procedure for the "SP1271 family set of game chips" or is there some other procedure I should be following?

You were close! I made a few small corrections to your list. The CMOS chip never needs to be removed for any "official" operation. Pulling it to clear the memory is definitely not an official operation per IGT. lol.

BTW, if you end up having to clear the machine, you will also need the SET chip to re-enable the DBV, and that will also go into the Game chip slot.

Don't forget to check that the notch on the chips always matches the notch on the socket. Even seasoned veterans have made that mistake once or twice. You don't want to let out the magic smoke.

Stat

[GSD Dan]

Well how about that, even a broken clock is right twice a day. Thank you for the corrections. I did second check the notches on the chips as compared to the chip holders - they're instralled correctly. I totally understand about letting out the blue smoke, thats the pissed-off geni comeing out to reeks havoc.

[StatFreak]

... But when I closed the door (snugly I might add) and turned the key, I got a blank pad then the 61 came back.
...

...Now for the optics, I looked at both the door and base unit and they look clean and nothing out of the ordinary.
...

A visual inspection wouldn't necessarily reveal a problem, but if the 61-1 code disappeared after you turned the key, and then came back as a 61, you're door optics are working.

[StatFreak]

Note:

The Game chip is the firmware program that actually runs the slot machine.
The Reel chip is a data chip that contains the virtual strip information, the VS mapping to the physical strips, and the pay table combos and amounts data for a particular game, as well as any other game-specific data necessary.

When you insert a clear or set chip into the game chip slot, it's just like running a different program on your PC, only in this case you have to physically install the new program, mostly because they had such little space available on these chips when the S+ was made.

By contrast, an S2000 key chip does as its name suggests: it only triggers a flag(s) that temporarily unlocks certain setting options that are already built into the code on the game chips, because there was/is plenty of room on the game chips for all of the code.

Stat

[poppo]

I'm absolutely sure, it seats perfectly and tight. Now for the optics, I looked at both the door and base unit and they look clean and nothing out of the ordinary.

Dont forget, I bought unit after the old owner had it sitting in his garage broken for few months. He told me the board was bad evident by the burn through he made by trying to unsolder a chip. So I could have other issues as well.

Bad door optics can cause a lot of grief since you won't be able to clear the errors if they aren't working.

[slots4home]

Guys,
i have had every problem with the splus slants and uprights.
1. did you slide the latch on the bottom door over after you re installed the bottom door.
2. if everything else fails like has been spoken in this thread it is the motherboard. Their is a small chip ( sometimes removable most times not)  that goes out and when you cannot clear a 61 code that usually is the problem.

[GSD Dan]

Slots4home, your just full of good news. I considered that after some reading. I'm hoping that the clear chip does the deed. If not, I'll be pulling that board out as well. Hopefully if it is the motherboard, the chip will be easy to locate and replace.

Thanks for the heads up.

[poppo]

Hopefully if it is the motherboard, the chip will be easy to locate and replace.

It's probably soldered in, but it's only a 8 pin DIP. Best to put a socket in if you have to pull it. If it comes down to that, I have spare chips and can send you one.

Or if you are feeling adventurous, you can do this mod.
http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=10615.0

[StatFreak]

It is the only chip on the motherboard. The clear should take care of the problem, but if you do end up removing it, I would suggest installing a socket. If you don't want to bother, you can just replace the entire motherboard instead. They're not expensive.

Odds are much greater of the data simply being corrupted than the odds of the chip being bad, so don't panic yet.

<EDIT> Poppo beat me to it!

[slots4home]

I will donate one ( just pay shipping) if you need one.

[GSD Dan]

Oh yea, I can do this. I hope I don't havwe to though. I like the socket that poppo brought up. I do like that way of fixing the board just in case I have to swap it again.

Slots4home, you have made me a offer I cannot refuse. I'd still like to contribute in some way + shipping. Just a my way of showing appreciation. Lets hope I don't have to go that route.

thx

[stayouttadabunker]

Dan,
If you need a socket and 24C40 chip...
PM your address and I will send you a set for your motherboard okay?
Or, I'll solder one up for you and we'll just trade motherboards!