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Author Topic: help needed with double red white blue machine  (Read 55368 times)
poppo
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« Reply #125 on: July 09, 2011, 03:29:42 PM »

Could the transformer possibly be bad on the "bad" MPU board ? Any way of checking it ?

No. You would not be getting the 61 or any other displays if the transformer was bad.

One more thing you might try. First make sure the game chip is seated properly that and you didn't bend a pin or something after you did the clear. You might try putting the game and reel chip in it from your good MPU and see what happens (putting the MPU in the good machine). If it still won't clear the 61, then it's probably bad.

The good MPU did not show any errors since nothing had changed. The EEPROM and CMOS still match on that pair.
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reefpatrol
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« Reply #126 on: July 09, 2011, 04:43:40 PM »

should I switch the cmos chip also ?
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poppo
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« Reply #127 on: July 09, 2011, 04:48:17 PM »

should I switch the cmos chip also ?

I would try just the game and reel first. If you swap the CMOS, then you WILL get a 61 when you put your good MPU back in. But you can try that too if you feel comfortable doing it. It won't hurt anything, unless for some odd reason your good machine has a problem clearing errors too. So far we have not had to clear anything with the good MPU.
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reefpatrol
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« Reply #128 on: July 09, 2011, 05:14:11 PM »

Well poppo might be the best nerd.....making progress.

I pulled both game and reel chips from working board, stuck in bad board, put bad board in good machine. Got 61, then 61-1, then cleared it and it workeddddddddd.

No put old chips back in bad board, stuck bad board with it's original bad chips in good machine and got a code 67 now.
How to clear it ?
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poppo
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« Reply #129 on: July 09, 2011, 05:21:02 PM »

No put old chips back in bad board, stuck bad board with it's original bad chips in good machine and got a code 67 now.
How to clear it ?


See this page for clearing various errors.

http://www.newlifegames.net/igterrors/

Open door.  Turn machine off, then on.

BTW, you got a 67 because you changed the reel chip.

Now if it won't clear again, you may have a bad game and/or reel chip.
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reefpatrol
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« Reply #130 on: July 09, 2011, 05:25:21 PM »

Uugghh, stuck at the 61-1 again, won't clear with the key.
So that would mean the board is good but one of the chips is bad right ?

Once again, thank you everyone for all the help
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reefpatrol
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« Reply #131 on: July 09, 2011, 05:27:23 PM »

Wait.......I did it one more time and it's WORKING..........
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poppo
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« Reply #132 on: July 09, 2011, 05:30:12 PM »

Wait.......I did it one more time and it's WORKING..........

That's a good sign. However I have had MPUs that work one minute and not the next.

So put your good game back together, make sure it still works and wait until you get that replacement motherboard. There really is too much corrosion on the one you have to keep messing with it.
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reefpatrol
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« Reply #133 on: July 09, 2011, 05:34:50 PM »

Thank you so much. I am getting a new motherboard for sure.

Now to try and educate myself to tackle the dollar bill parts on the good machine......
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poppo
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« Reply #134 on: July 09, 2011, 05:38:44 PM »

Now to try and educate myself to tackle the dollar bill parts on the good machine......

If need be, just start a new thread with any issues you have with the BV (best posted in the BV sub fourm).
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reefpatrol
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« Reply #135 on: July 09, 2011, 05:48:28 PM »

Yes sir, I will. I think it's just not getting power though. Might not even be plugged in
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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #136 on: July 09, 2011, 11:51:13 PM »

When you get the new motherboard...please let us know how it turns out.  yes
One-Hundred and Thirty Five posts to get this puppy on it's feet again...wow!
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poppo
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« Reply #137 on: July 10, 2011, 12:34:43 AM »

One-Hundred and Thirty Five posts to get this puppy on it's feet again...wow!

Minus all of the off-topic banter and it's probaby more like 12.    rotflmao
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reefpatrol
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« Reply #138 on: July 10, 2011, 12:20:14 PM »

We can just keep it going.....
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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #139 on: July 10, 2011, 12:21:29 PM »

We can just keep it going.....

Yeah... the Title IS : "help needed with double red white blue machine"....lol
So what else is wrong with it?  rotflmao
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« Reply #140 on: July 10, 2011, 12:56:34 PM »

We can just keep it going.....

Yeah... the Title IS : "help needed with double red white blue machine"....lol
So what else is wrong with it?  rotflmao
If he's like the rest of us and keeps tinkering with his machine, it will only be a matter of time before there's another issue requiring our help... stir the pot / get cooking  Crazy  bust gut laughing bust gut laughing bust gut laughing
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« Reply #141 on: July 10, 2011, 01:33:03 PM »

Yes I fit in perfect.....

Here is one for you. On the motherboard what do those burnt resistors control ? Reason I ask is because I put the machine back together(yes I'm getting a new motherboard)using the old motherboard and got a 65-3 code(I think), pushed the white button and it went away. Wheels spun so I figured it was good to go. The coins would just fall out and the lower part of the candle was flashing(meaning door was open right). So I took the good optics out of the other machine and plugged them in. With the wheel glass off I was able to shut the door and hold the known to be good optics so the were in exact alignment and still got the lower candle flashing.


To test the optics in the machine ... press the self test switch (3 times?) until 10  1 appears  ... turn the jackpot reset key until 13   x appears. Close the door and if 0 and 1 alternate blinks then the door optics are good.

Tried this also and it would not blink from 0 to 1.....
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poppo
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« Reply #142 on: July 10, 2011, 01:45:41 PM »

Here is one for you. On the motherboard what do those burnt resistors control ?

For the most part nothing of real importance.  However, I am more concerned about areas like this on your board. And you can't see what corrosion is under the MPU connectors. I really would stop messing with it until you get another motherboard as you will probably just be going circles.


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reefpatrol
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« Reply #143 on: July 10, 2011, 01:57:14 PM »

Ok, I'll stop........that plug is so dirty because it didn't have anything plugged into it
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poppo
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« Reply #144 on: July 10, 2011, 02:05:13 PM »

I'm looking at the corrosion on the board between the connectors. And even if there is nothing plugged in, those traces still carry signals. When they get corroded and start conducting between them, then you have all sorts of problems. And if there is corrosion where you can see it, you can almost guarantee there is corrosion hidden between the MPU connectors and the board (and other connectors). And just one of the signals getting screwed up can cause the machine to malfunction.

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poppo
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« Reply #145 on: July 10, 2011, 02:14:23 PM »

While you are waiting for the motherboard, you could use your good machine to test some of the other items. Like the door optics, coin comparator, coin optics, etc. That way you will have a list of what you know is good.
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Buzz
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« Reply #146 on: July 10, 2011, 06:01:05 PM »

Classic sign that the door optics are not working. Since you already swapped them, check the wiring carefully. Check for bent pins on all plugs, including the MPU.  You may also want to take the reel glass off so you can look to see if the optics are lining up with the latch down.

The above is a quote from this thread, and I'm truly baffled as to why one would remove the reel glass to align the door optics !  I for one do not like messing with a piece of glass that's sometimes near impossible to replace.

I take a Sharpie and put a mark lined up with the door optic on the door,( latch all the way down ) do the same thing with the cabnet optic ( mark on the cabnet ) close the door and see if the two marks line up.  Now the machine is not permanently disfigured with two black marks. They will clean off with soap and water, WD 40, acetone, the list goes on and on.


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poppo
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« Reply #147 on: July 10, 2011, 06:04:21 PM »

Buzz,

Did you see the condition of his motherboard? I really think he is wasting time trying to work on anything else until he gets that replaced. It's already caused him problems with his MPU.

As for the reel glass, I have seen it posted several times as an easy way to look and see if the optics are lined up. It takes just a minute to remove on a S+. Besides it gives one a good opportunity to clean it up really good. But your meathod would probably work ok too. Unless your cabinet is black.  Tongue Out

<edit> I now see that your post was a quote without quoting.  arrow
« Last Edit: July 10, 2011, 06:16:21 PM by poppo » Logged
Buzz
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« Reply #148 on: July 10, 2011, 06:15:41 PM »

Mark  I won't bet any money on this statement, but I seem to remember someone saying they put their boards in the dish washer. ( I hope not when they have a load of dishes being cleaned )

I do kind of agree this one is past all help. 

This is a little off topic, I have a S+ 5 reel with known good optics from a S 2000. They won't work, but I have one wire bypassing the optics and the machine plays fine. I don't know why the optics won't work and at this point I don't care. All I need to do is install a cheery switch and call it FIXED.
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« Reply #149 on: July 10, 2011, 06:24:09 PM »

With the wheel glass off I was able to shut the door and hold the known to be good optics so the were in exact alignment and still got the lower candle flashing.

On most SP chips the lower candle remains flashing after the door is successfully closed, until one paid game has been played and completed.  As Poppo said, there are too many variables with that crappy motherboard.  I very much like his suggestion of swapping parts into your working machine to determine if they're good (and label them!) so you'll have fewer questionable parts when your new motherboard arrives.


This is a little off topic, I have a S+ 5 reel with known good optics from a S 2000.

Buzz-

Would you be so kind as to post a picture of the game?  I've only seen a few 4 reel and 5 reel S+ games and I'd love to see what game you've got.
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