Problem with Bally "Nickles" E-1227 - Machine is only rattling

[Newshunter]

Hi there,

first of all I want to say something about me - I'm Daniel and I come from Bavaria/Germany. I'm a big fan of US Slot Machines.
So far I have only two of them - a bally proslot ("five and dime") and an older one - a bally "nickels" E-1227, manufactured in 1982.
I hope you'll understand my English - feel free to tell me if there's anything wrong - I like to improve :-)

The problem with my "Nickels", that once worked perfectly, is the following:
When turning power on, it doesn't start its self test. Only the lamps are lit and the led display shows "0....."
Sometimes all the payline leds and the lamps for tilt, insert coin, winner paid and so on are flashing for about half a second.
When I open the door, the machine begins to rattle (don't know if that's the right word for it). That means, all the counters for paid coins, inserted coins and so on are counting all the time.
Furthermore, the coil that effects that coins don't reach the hopper when it's full turns on and off all the time (I have marked it in the picture).
You can't put in a coin and you can't play.

The RAM battery is ok and I gave the mpu board to an electrician who checked it. Everything should be ok with it.
I also have taken out the hopper and the reel unit to see if the problem still appears, and it does.

I can't remember any situation that could be the reason for the problem.

Is there anybody who knows about a similar problem or anybody who could imagine what kind of problem it could be?

I'm to Vegas some days in September. So I could buy spare parts. But I have to know which one :-)

I'd be so happy if it works again........

Thanks in advance,

Daniel

[proten]

Check you Audit key switch that
is is not turned on or shorted.

Paul

[Newshunter]

Paul,

thanks very much for your answer.

I was just looking for the audit key switch, but I think I didn't find the right one.

Can you tell me where it is located? I only found a key switch for the meter display (where the counters are counting all the time), the tilt switch (when I turn it on the rattling becomes more intensive) and the power reset switch. There are also some other switches in the machine, but those are not used with a key.

Daniel

[proten]

The Audit key switch is on the side around
the handle area. Be sure to look inside at the
wires for any damage.
You can also try resetting the all the connectors to
the I/O board.

[FOXSSLOTS1]

you have a US Military model E-series - has different boards than a standard E-series - and resetting is also different - there is a reset key on the handle side of the machines (if no key) you can manually activate the switch on the inside of the cabinet - if it resets - the BELL will starting ringing (press the button located on the top left of the door).  if meter still shows 0 - then you have board problems - note also that the machine used OPTIC boards for coin accepting.

[Newshunter]

Thanks to Paul, thanks to FoxSlots,

I have tried the following:

- I resetted all the connectors from the I/O board (means I put them away and put them in again)
- I tested the tilt/reset key switch manually (there's no key anymore), it was the only switch I found near the handle, when I turned it on, the rattling only became more intensive
- I think the switch is OK, because I have put it out from the machine and connected the two cables, it had the same effect (don't know if that was right?)

But I didn't find a button on the top left of the door, I wonder where it is located exactly? I have put several pictures to this reply, perhaps you can help me?

Could there be any problem with the optic boards for coin accepting? See my picture, if there are optic boards, I don't know, I'm sorry...

Thanks a lot for helping me...

Daniel

[Jim]

I noticed in your pictures that there appears to be two key switches on the side of the machine where the handle is:  what is the one above the handle for? the one below the handle is the switch we are referring to. since you don't have a key for it, you can activate the switch by using your finger, then you have to press the two buttons on top of the hopper control board to reset everything, if the bell starts to ring , then you push the button located on the right side and to the right of the reel assembly, its the only push button switch there.( its visible in your pictures)
on most 1000 series machines there was a piggy back board on the cpu that had two push on type connectors for the ram chips and battery. it appears that yours is similar to a 2000 series board where as the ram and battery are part of the cpu board. are the ram chips in sockets? you can try and flex this board and see if it changes anything. be cautious though, if you push on it to hard you could short it out to the metal cabinet. put some non conductive  material behind it before you flex and push on it. sometimes bad sockets etc. could cause your condition.
the other issue with these machines was the power supply connections, these were the type that has a "V" on top of the metal pin, the wire was inserted into the "V" and pressure was applied and the insulation was pierced and the connection was made. these become very intermittent and could cause your condition. later machines had crimp on connectors to remedy this problem.
I would try these and see what happens.

Jim

[Newshunter]

Jim,

thanks a lot - I'm on holiday now, I'll be back on Monday or Tuesday.

I'll try everything and tell you again!

Daniel

[FOXSSLOTS1]

jim this is a MILITARY E-Series -  not a standard E-series -  they use non-standard boards - non- standard tests!!!  read my earlier post.

[Newshunter]

Thanks to Jim,
thanks to Barry,

I tried to do anything useful. I resetted the connectors of the I/O board.
I checked if the I/O board is supplied with power. I tried to push the tilt/reset switch and the two push buttons on the hopper.
After that I pushed the button right to the reels. But nothing happened - the counters are still counting and the coil which directs the coins into the safe when the hopper is full is still turning on and off.

Is there anything I could do else - you told me this is a military machine - are there any other opportunities for resetting?

I wonder why the machine had worked perfectly once - there was no comprehensible reason for this malfunction...

Thanks...

Daniel

[FOXSSLOTS1]

check your power supply

[Newshunter]

Barry,

thanks - I think so, too, when I read older posts here.

I have already looked for it, but I'm not exactly sure where the power supply is located.
There are two places where I think it could be.
My machine has also been converted from 110 to 220V.

Daniel

[proten]

The power supply is under the reels and here is how to test

[Amachanic]

One other thing to look at and check is the power supplies plug for any sign of burnt connections. One other problem I find is that the solder joints on the back of the power supply plug tend to have cracks or broken solder joints causing bad connections. Have you looked closely at the fuse holders to make sure none are cracked or broken, and that the caps fit tight? The power supply is the board behind the hopper on the back wall under the reel platform.

[Newshunter]

Thanks to proten & Amachanic,

it's really great to have you guys - not getting tired to give me hints, I'll check that all and report to you soon :-)

Daniel

[Newshunter]

Hi there,

after almost one year I'm back.
In the meantime I visited California, Nevada, Arizona & Utah, it was really great.
To that, I bought a IGT S-Plus in it WORKS :-)

But my Bally E-1227 (Military) still doesn't work.
Today I checked the power supply - I think everything is correct with it, all the volts shown on my volt-ohm meter are right.
I have replaced the battery on the mpu board, too, because it was down.

I made a video to show you the problem I've told you above:
http://youtu.be/O0nTxQeaszQ

I don't know what I could do else...

Daniel

[tkrozleski]

NewsHunter,
My problem was the MPU board. Barry- FOXSLOTS got it going for me.
Barry replaced the entire MPU board.

Not sure if that is your issue?

[tkrozleski]

Daniel,

I have a E1000 series with RAM board that I am working on that was chattering due to a bad edge connector and oxidized RAM edge connector pins on the MPU. I found it by moving the RAM board slightly while it was powered up.

I removed the RAM board from the MPU and found the pins were corroded from a battery leak.

Cleaning the pins and different RAM board made the chatter stop.

I do not have the machine running but the chatter stopped.

Not sure if your machine has the RAM on the MPU . It appears yours has the E2000 MPU?

Not sure if this helps?