S PLUS BILL VALIDATOR DEAD

[poppo]

Do you know the voltage from the output connector; the one that goes directly to the BV? Or, the input voltage to the power supply from the 9 pin connector? It might be easier to check that way.

Here ya go. Click on it to enlarge. The important pins are the 117VAC input, and the 12VDC output on pins 1 &2

[shortrackskater]

Not sure if I'm reading that right (and thank you, though!) - I'm not a real tech...I just can figure things out. I did check the input connector to the BV power supply and get nothing. I'm assuming it's a DC input, but I checked for AC also. I think I could have fried my multimeter if is was an AC input and was hot! I get nothing. I traced the harness down to the big power supply but not sure where to go from here. Sorry if I'm sounding uh...uneducated!

Just re-read your last post...good thing it wasn't hot! No AC input on the small power supply!

[poppo]

Ok, check the output from the main power supply where the black and white wires are. Make sure that plug is seated. You should also be able to move it over to the next plug. Check your main power supply fuses too.

Make sure your meter is set right. You can check it by measuring a wall outlet for AC.

BTW, you won't hurt the meter by having it set for DC instead of AC. You just won't get a reading.

[shortrackskater]

Before I got your reply, I realized that the 9 pin connector was reversible. It appeared I had it in backwards! I reversed it and the BV cycled. I had to run an errand and, when I came back, I smelled something BURNING. Now I have a 3300 error code and a bad smell. This is getting very frustrating. It clearly looked like the plug was reversed and, again, I heard the BV cycle! The smell appears to be coming from the main power supply but it's hard to tell. I am very bad at tracing smell locations.
The BV is now cycling but I'm getting an error code and the smell does indeed appear to be coming from the main power supply. I think I took something out when I messed with the plug. I wasn't using my brain and seeing which wires were lining up. I am 100% sure the power to the BV is fine since it's cycling each time I turn the main power on.
I'm getting a 3100 error code and the machine does not go through the usual start up cycle. I've killed my once perfectly working slot machine.
Shit!
This DBV would probably worked just FINE if I hadn't plugged the damn thing in wrong...twice! I've never seen a plug that was not generally fool proof. This one in particular can be plugged in wrong in two different positions.

[shortrackskater]

Well I've killed the CPU. I did find the source...see the picture. I cannot believe I actually did this. One of the IC's is quite fried and the trace looks cooked beyond repair I believe - not sure.  I have no idea where to go from here now. Well, at least the bill validator cycles! Should I try and replace this fried chip or just get a new CPU board off Ebay?

[poppo]

Well, IMO you should just get a new MPU. While that board may be fixable, there is a good chance there is more wrong with it than that resistor pack (besides the burnt traces).

That is RP4 that cooked and is shown below. Notice how it has the signals for coin in/out and the BV. That is most likely why you are getting the 3300. When you plugged that cable in backward, it probably fed the 117VAC into the wrong lines and thus the  

I'm a little confused on when the BV started to cycle. Was it after the plug was put back the right way? If so, most likely it just was not seated good to begin with.

Note: It looks like the trace to pin 10 of RP4 is the most burt. And that is the BV in signal.

[poppo]

On a side note, keep in mind that RP4 is just a resistor network and not an IC. Any incorrect voltage fed into it, would pass through it into the next components. That is why I don't think replacing just RP4 will fix the problem.  Also, I hate to say it, but it's possible that plugging that connector in wrong also did some damage to the BV head. It may cycle now, but there is a chance it won't work after you get the MPU issue resolved.

[knagl]

Don't get too discouraged. Many of us at some point have killed our working machines. It's part of the learning process. The good news is that a replacement MPU board shouldn't run more than about $30. eBay is an option, but try posting a WTB post in the classifieds section on this site first and you'll get a better chance of getting a good board sent to you.

[poppo]

Many of us at some point have killed our working machines.

Yep. Sometimes several times.   It's one of the reasons I look for good deals on craigslist. I've found it cheaper to buy a parts complete machine and strip it down for spare parts than to have to keep buying something everytime I   something.

[shortrackskater]

OUCH !!! That hurt. ...

Yeah...it hurt all right. I had gone across the street to help my neighbor UNLOAD A SLOT that I found for them. When I came back, that AWFUL smell was in my garage. I guess the saying is true "No good deed goes unpunished."
I still can't believe someone (IGT or the PS manufacture?) would design a plug that could be put in multiple directions AND would carry AC, capable of death to mpu's.
Thanks, though, everyone for the comments...it helps although I'm still ready to whack my head against the garage wall.







Moderator: Split discussion of the problem from the WTB and merged it with the original post. SF

[poppo]

I still can't believe someone (IGT or the PS manufacture?) would design a plug that could be put in multiple directions AND would carry AC, capable of death to mpu's.

Can you post a closeup of the connector in the other thread? I don't recall ever seeing any of the plugs that didn't have a 'keyway' of some sort to prevent just that.

[Slotmaster]

I got one for $35 bucks shipped, heck I will toss in a 16 MHZ with the 10 MHZ

[shortrackskater]

I still can't believe someone (IGT or the PS manufacture?) would design a plug that could be put in multiple directions AND would carry AC, capable of death to mpu's.

Can you post a closeup of the connector in the other thread? I don't recall ever seeing any of the plugs that didn't have a 'keyway' of some sort to prevent just that.

This connector did have a keyway. I just was using the wrong part of my brain to line it up. I lined up the two tabs at first then, somehow I reconnected it wrong again. I have no idea why I didn't look at the WIRES, which were color coded! Perhaps I should not drink while working on slots...but it wasn't that much!

[shortrackskater]

...and finally, THIS would have avoided a burned out MPU board! I hope, maybe someone else new will learn from this and avoid some frustration.

[poppo]

Perhaps I should not drink while working on slots...

Besides for the locking tabs, if you look closely, the plastic housing around the center pins along the three of the four edges are shaped different. In theory, you should not be able to plug them together wrong. But given enough  , anyone can make a square peg fit in a round hole.

 

[shortrackskater]

And I DID notice that before... and plugged it in anyway. I think the connector got "soft" over time as well.
I've ordered a replacement board that I should receive next week. I hope I can just replace the game and % chips and be good to go? Maybe?

[poppo]

I've ordered a replacement board that I should receive next week. I hope I can just replace the game and % chips and be good to go? Maybe?

Since you were getting an error code after the incident, it looks like the machine was at least trying to boot. So you should be good to go. You will get a 61 error when you plug in the new board, but that is normal. If it were me, I would pull the CMOS on the replacement board first, to make it lose it's memory (since it will have the wrong data anyway). That way on boot-up, you will get a 'clean' copy of the EEPROM to it (when you clear the 61).

Oh and don't plug your chips in backwards.   

[shortrackskater]

Where is that one? Well I have a manual...I can look there and see although I'm not sure if there's a schematic or block diagram there.
Now, how do I get the SMELL out of my machine and garage??? 

[poppo]

Where is that one?

Right next to the game and reel chip. It's marked CMOS on the board. It's the chip that is battery backed up and retains data between writes to the EEPROM. On boot-up the machine compares the EEPROM data to the CMOS and if they don't match, you get a 61. Clearing the 61 re-copies the data from the EEPROM to it. While not necessary to pull it, the data won't match anyway and you will get a 61. Pulling it for a few seconds basically erases it and there is less chance of getting stuck in a 61 loop (IMO).

[Buzz]

shortrackskater  (Mark)   I think I would take a close look at the plugs you said you plugged together backwards.  I don't think it's possible to get them wrong. The reason I'm saying this is maybe you have a different problem and maybe you will smoke the replacemeat board. I hope I'm wrong but make sure !!

Lacquer thinner will give a car that new car smell. Try wiping the inside of your machine with some, can't hurt.

[poppo]

shortrackskater  (Mark)   I think I would take a close look at the plugs you said you plugged together backwards.  I don't think it's possible to get them wrong.

Buzz,

He posted pictures above of how he connected them wrong. And smoke rose after it. Having that plug off by 90 degrees would put 115VAC on some signal lines. As I noted, the plugs are 'keyed', but the picture shows it can be done.

What does concern me is those signal lines also go to/from the BV head and it's possible that got cooked too.

[shortrackskater]

It still aggravates me that I simply lined up the two prominent tabs and just firmly pressed and the plugs meshed together. The first time (when I was troubleshooting) did not cause any damage...but the 90 degrees next switch was the "fryer." When I did get it correct, the BV did cycle and it kept doing it after powering the slot off and on multiple times after cooking. I just wanted to make sure I had really broken it! Even after that, the lights all came up, the reels aligned themselves, and the BV cycled as if it was waiting for money.

[poppo]

When I did get it correct, the BV did cycle and it kept doing it after powering the slot off and on multiple times after cooking. I just wanted to make sure I had really broken it! Even after that, the lights all came up, the reels aligned themselves, and the BV cycled as if it was waiting for money.

There is a good chance that this plug just was not seated good to start with, which was causing the initial problem of no power to the BV. Or maybe it was turned the wrong way, but in another direction and you just got lucky that it didn't cook.

[shortrackskater]

I think I had that plug in "wrong and wronger" all along.   
The new board is HERE already! I've replaced the game and reel proms. Lifted the CMOS from the new board for 30 seconds, then replaced it ...the CORRECT direction. I hope it's plug n play from here on. Only question is: what's U18? I am replacing from the old board to the new board as well, but I don't know what it does. It's located to the far left of the board, centered - with the volume pot at the bottom for reference.
Here's a picture of another source of SMELL. I just cut that part out and put some insulation material at the bottom and electrical taped the top. 

[shortrackskater]

Everything is in...powered on - the BV cycled, the reels moved slightly but no initial cycle and no error codes. When I shut this off (after cooking) it did have an error code but now there's nothing. I checked the dip switches and sure the IC's were seated and in the proper direction!