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Author Topic: S2000 No Power  (Read 7934 times)
markhart
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« on: September 11, 2011, 04:20:48 PM »

I have an S2000 that I have left unplugged for about 2 months.  I plugged it in today and the only power I am getting to the machine is the incadescant service light on the inside behind the cash can.  I replaced the battery on the board right before I stored it 2 months ago, and everything was working fine.  When I bought this machine a couple of years ago, it was doing the same thing at the seller's house, but when I got it home it worked fine.  I reseated the board and visually cannot see anything out of place.  Any ideas on things I can try?
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Yoeddy1
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« Reply #1 on: September 11, 2011, 04:33:39 PM »

Hmmm.  Wonder if you have either a flakey power supply or a short somewhere...based on what you said about the machine doing it at the sellers house and then once you got it home it worked.  Almost as if a bit of wiggling did something.  I would check plug connections, wiggle the wiring harnesses, maybe try a different power cord and socket.  Plug it into the wall if you are connected to a surge protector.

A few things to try to get started anyway.

Jason
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Buzz
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« Reply #2 on: September 11, 2011, 06:15:19 PM »

Mark   The BV will cycle at power up even if no MPU is installed. If no BV cycle, I would take a look at the power supply. Good chance it just needs reseated.
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« Reply #3 on: September 11, 2011, 10:59:25 PM »

Don't forget the infamous power connector to the motherboard. Check that, too.

<EDIT> Scratch that. ID10T post. Weird Eyes arrow

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« Reply #4 on: September 11, 2011, 11:16:31 PM »

David   S 2000   Duh! Duh! Duh!
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« Reply #5 on: September 11, 2011, 11:55:49 PM »

David   S 2000   Duh! Duh! Duh!

Well, that shows you how alert I am today. Tongue Out Crazy Silly Me! Silly Me!  Thumbs Down
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markhart
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« Reply #6 on: September 12, 2011, 01:03:20 PM »

Looked at it some more today.  I re-seated most of the connectors.  I removed the power supply and the ceramic 10 amp fuse is good in it.  The hold down thumbscrew on the power supply was completely loose so I snugged it down.  No BV cycle.  It is completely dead except the service lamp which is on when the door is open, power on or off.  I'm thinking power supply took a dump on me.  Are there any other fuses I am missing? Thanks.
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« Reply #7 on: September 12, 2011, 02:23:34 PM »

if nothing happens when you power on and off you may want to check your power switch and connections to it. amazingly enoungh i have seen them go bad.
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« Reply #8 on: September 12, 2011, 02:43:50 PM »

There is a breaker switch on the top edge of the power distribution box.  Look at this thread     http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=1988.msg14955#msg14955
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« Reply #9 on: September 12, 2011, 04:32:32 PM »

since your service lamp is on ,the fuse/circuit breaker  has to be good. the hot AC line has to pass through the breaker to supply power to the 12dc power supply that supplies the voltage to that lamp. that's the only thing that the supply is used for. your problem could be anywhere within the power supply module ( that's the entire unit mounted to the backwall) or the power on/ off switch, or any of the wiring in between.  since its an intermittent problem, and its broke now, it should be a piece of cake to fix. to find this problem YOU WILL NEED A METER TO CHECK CONTINUITY. things you need to know:  we are only dealing with two wires here. the brown wire(115vac hot)  and the blue wire (115vac neutral). on the top of the power supply module, from right to left on top of the module we have six plugs. far right(where the power cord comes in) p 306 unswitched AC, 304 switched AC, 305 not used, 241 12vdc to lamp behind bill acceptor housing, next one not used, and J/P300 eight pin connector. this plug outputs AC to the on/off switch, receives the input from that on/off switch and puts the AC out to the input of the machines power supply.since we know the power into the machine is good, unplug P304 second plug, top of module, put meter leads in pins where the brown and blue wire would have been if the plug was plugged in. make sure they are not shorting out to anything, then turn on power switch, you should read 115vac, if not, something is open from J/P300 to the power switch and back to J/P300, the terminal blocks inside.if it is good, than the problem has to be from the terminal blocks inside the module to J/P300 to the machines power supply.all the AC power comes into and out of J/P300, could be a loose pin on that connector.
  In any case, we can check continuity from the switched ac plug to the pins on the power supply. so to sum this up, two checks with a meter and we could find out where the problem is and correct it so you won't have that issue.

Jim







   
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markhart
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« Reply #10 on: September 13, 2011, 11:15:11 PM »

Thanks Jim for the detailed response. I checked the Power Distribution Box connectors as you suggested  and I was getting power to it. However, I wiggled the harness on the back of the hopper connector, and the machine came on. It would come on and off intermittently as I slid the hopper in and out.  Barely moving the hopper would cause the machine to come on and off.  I removed the hopper connector in the base of the machine to visually inspect it (everything looked fine).  I put the connector back in and now I can't get it to come back on.  One pin on the back of the  hopper connector is brass colored and sticks out a little further than the rest, but this may be normal ( I don't have another one to compare with).  Any ideas on what I can check next?
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« Reply #11 on: September 14, 2011, 04:18:43 PM »

that's a very odd  condition, since the hopper is pretty much a non active output device. according to the wiring diagrams I have, the hopper cable goes up to the back of the cabinet I/O, and the cabinet I/O cable goes to J-8 (SENET) on the motherboard.
   here are the pinout and their functions for the hopper plug. pin1=hopper full (probe on hopper),2=hopper motion,3=cabinet ground, 5= coinout detect,6=hopper brake, 8=hopper safety, 16=+13vdc,17=A ground,18=+25vdc, 19= B ground. 4,7,9,10,11,12,13,14,15 are not used. the larger brass pin is usually a guide, and most of the time its the earth ground.
I would monitor the two voltages on the hopper plug and see if they are there, especially the +25vdc, because if that was good you should have flourscent lights,even if the rest of the machine is out.   I would try resetting the I/O card and wiggling it , and the cabling to the motherboard and the J-8 connector. Also I would inspect and wiggle J-13 on the motherboard, it provides all the power from power supply to run all the connectors on the motherboard.

Jim




 
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markhart
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« Reply #12 on: September 17, 2011, 09:15:18 PM »

Thanks again Jim.  I checked all of the connectors on the motherboard again.  I removed the hopper receiving connector in the cabinet base and took a better look and it and everything seems good.  I did remove the I/O card as you suggested.  When I powered the machine back up, everything is working again.  I wiggled the harness at the back of the hopper connector (where it used to shut off when I did this) and it stayed on.  I am guessing the I/O card re-seating  may have taken care of it, since I didn't make any other changes besides that. I will let it run for awhile and see if it stays on.  Thanks again for your help!
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Ron (r273)
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« Reply #13 on: April 05, 2013, 03:47:46 PM »

I don't like bringing a an old post to life but I just spent weeks on trying to find why
my power on one of my S-2000's would flash on for a second and then stay off for
about 10 seconds. Other times it would stay off indefinitely. The only thing that would
work is the service light. Scratch Head

So I did all the usual things like change the power supply, check the connections to
anything I could reach, changed the door I/O.  I change the door I/O twice. The second
time when I was holding the I/O in place checking the connection it came on a stayed on.
A soon as I move ever so slightly it would go off. propeller

Well to make a long story short, it was shorting out at the end of the wiring harness for the
blank button near Play Max Credits. The ends on some of those plug's was exposed and not
covered completely by the connector cover. I pushed the covers back over the connectors and
tape each one. applause

Hope this helps someone in the furture.

Ron (r273)
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