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Author Topic: hopper problems EM-955-1  (Read 5951 times)
rjpohl
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« on: September 18, 2011, 12:50:06 PM »

The payout counter does not return to O position after a payout.  I've adjusted the spring by adding another wrap.  The payoutcounter now returns to zero when I manually trip the solenoid.  I've set the reels to a payout position, returned payout counter to zero, it pays out correctly but the payout counter doesn't move at all.

Is there a way to check the electrical circuit for the solenoid?  Any other help and suggestions are appreciated.

thanks
Bob


* EM955-1-hopper-003.JPG (707.12 KB, 2304x1728 - viewed 364 times.)
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rjpohl
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« Reply #1 on: September 18, 2011, 01:04:16 PM »

here's a better picture.


* EM955-1-hopper001.JPG (732.86 KB, 2304x1728 - viewed 400 times.)
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Jim
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« Reply #2 on: September 19, 2011, 02:41:58 PM »

Bob  you better be careful as to how many wraps of the coil wire you make. on larger payouts the tension will get so strong that it won't complete the payout.

as for your counter not resetting!  that reset coil is controlled by two switches, one side of the coil should go to the orange wire( 50 vac)  the other side is a black/white wire which goes to the payout counter switch (hopper) through that switch as a orange/black wire onto the "B" switch through the "B" switch to the common wire (yellow).

the "B"switch is located on the left side of the reel mech. the horizonital switch behind the vertical "C" switches.

Jim
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MIDWEST SLOTS   Selling Quality Slot Machines since 1995.  We service and repair all types of slot machines. Mills, Jennings, Bally EM, 1000/2000 series, Proslot, 6000. IGT  M, M+ ,S,  S+, S-2000,  I-Game,  Universal,  Video Poker, Sigma.
rjpohl
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« Reply #3 on: September 22, 2011, 07:15:09 PM »

is there anyone on this site that repairs these hoppers.  If so send me a pm.

thanks
Bob
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Amachanic
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« Reply #4 on: September 22, 2011, 09:13:20 PM »

is there anyone on this site that repairs these hoppers.  If so send me a pm.

thanks
Bob

I would check with Barry Fox at Foxsslots
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« Reply #5 on: September 22, 2011, 09:39:01 PM »

did you check the zero stop switch on the hopper?  there should be several posts on fixing/testing that switch.
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rjpohl
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« Reply #6 on: September 23, 2011, 10:04:56 AM »

I have read several post and tried several things including adjusting zero stop switch.  It is in the open position when zero counter is at zero and closes when zero counter is advanced.  I can advance the zero counter by stroking the lever.  When I manually release the zero counter solenoid the counter doesn't move back to zero position, I have to rotate it by hand.  I did have it where it retracted some but would usually stick and not return to zero position.  I'm sure I have the spring tension wrong now too.  Is there a procedure to rewind spring (number of turns). Before I started messing with the spring I had it paying out the correct coins but I had to return the zero counter by hand.  I feel like there is something rubbing or too tight that doesn't allow the spring to return the zero counter on it's own.  Also the winner paid light stays on all the time. 

This is a very nice machine with 2 working progressives displays and I'd sure like to get it paying out correctly for my customer.

thanks a million
Bob
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Amachanic
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« Reply #7 on: September 23, 2011, 10:24:34 AM »

What is sound like to me is that you might have to take the hoppers spiral cam off, then on the other side remove the 100 tooth gear. Its possible that it just might be dirty or stick, but the other possible thing is that you might have to file down the center where it goes through. You could use a fine grit sand paper or a fine file. Don't take off too much then check to see how if fits. When done clean it up and lightly oil the surface and reassemble and adjust the spring tension to as light as possible to get it to return to zero.. As for the win light you have a contact that staying closed or bent and can't open. I don't remember off the top of my head what one it is without going to my books..

Gary
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If it's jammed, force it... If it breaks it needed to be replaced anyway...
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« Reply #8 on: September 23, 2011, 10:37:02 AM »

Hi Gary,

Thanks for the suggestion, I did have the spiral cam off and tried to oil from the out side.  I didn't quit see haw to get the 100 tooth gear off.   What holds the gear on?  I had read in another post about the plastic gear rubbing.

Thanks
Bob
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Amachanic
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« Reply #9 on: September 23, 2011, 12:23:09 PM »

Once you take the screw off the spiral cam, the only other thing holding it in is the spring. Any time I've replaced the spiral cam the dang 100 tooth gear wants to slide out on me. So it sound like yours is swelled up or really gummed up. Either way it needs to come out .
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« Reply #10 on: September 23, 2011, 08:07:02 PM »

I removed the 100 tooth gear and reamed hole out, now the zero cam returns easily when I manually trip solenoid. 
I did find 2 wires off the molex plug to the fron body of hopper. 
the plug when has 4 wires on the top row starting at the left top pin position - the far right one is pulled loose
the 2nd, 3rd & 4th rows only have 3 wires starting at left
the 3rd row has the 2nd wire pulled loose

the loose wires are 1.  orange with black rings  2. gray with white tracer

I know the orange with black rings runs back to zero switch


* 100_1424.JPG (124.54 KB, 800x600 - viewed 353 times.)
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Amachanic
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« Reply #11 on: September 23, 2011, 08:26:47 PM »

Glad to hear that the problem was fixed the hopper cam and switch. Now just figure out those 2 wires and you should be all set. Glade I was able to help.

Gary
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