MPU Battery Changes

[StatFreak]

This post was originally intended for the Bally ProSlots because their batteries die off so often. The S+ uses much less power when off and the batteries last for years. However, this idea can be used with any slot.

Re: MPU Board battery change
« Reply #11 on: January 31, 2007, 06:49:40 PM »
StatFreak

...
They are 3.6v, and there are two versions. 1/2AA (looks kind of barrel-ish) and full AA. The full AA has more mAh's so would last longer.

While these are not listed as rechargeable, I have to wonder what goes on in the circuits of these machines, because my IGTs NEVER die, and I have had to replace the Ballys twice already. What I found is that if I turn on the Ballys on a regular basis and leave them on for a day or so, this seems to prolong the battery life (haven't had to change it since starting this procedure). As I said, they aren't officially rechargeable.

The reason I mention this is that everyone is probably familiar with these SAFT 3.6v purple batteries. Anyway, what I did on my Ballys, and will do for every battery that goes dead from now on, was to switch to the full AA sized 3.6v LiON battery. To avoid soldering ever again, I went to Radio Shack and bought one of those plastic single AA battery holders that comes with red and black leads coming off it. Cost less than 2 bucks. When I removed the old battery I left enough of the metal tape on each end sticking up from the board so that I could solder to it. I soldered the Radio Shack part to the board, and used double-sided foam sticky tape to stick the thing onto the top of one of the larger nearby IC chips. So the next time the battery needs to be replaced, I just change it out like any other battery operated device.

And since these SAFTs have long shelf lives, I bought about 10 of them from All Electronics when they had a good price. I think I paid about $1.50 or less each.

The picture below was the first Bally I changed, and you can see that I got a 1/2AA battery holder and correct battery the first time. But when I switched the other machine to an AA, I decided to wire this one in parallel. This served two purposes. One, I can use whichever battery I can get in the future. Two, I can pop in the new battery before removing the old one, and not lose any data, as long as I do this before the voltage gets low enough to corrupt the data.

For those of you concerned with re-programming, you might try this parallel idea with two of the same-sized battery holders. It won't help the first time, but after that it could save your data on battery changes. Remember, you only would have two batteries in there during the swap, then one the rest of the time. Since they are wired in Parallel and NOT in series, you are only increasing the available current, but not the voltage.  [EDIT 9/16/2008: Actually, you could leave two batteries in place to increase the total MaH. When they get weak just remember to change one battery before removing the second one!]

[StatFreak]

Here is a different approach that uses regular AA alkaline batteries from cfh.

...

What i do is use a 4 bang AA battery pack. In the first "cell" of the
4 banger, i put a 1n4004 diode (band towards the red wire).
This prevents any "back flow" of battery charging (the circuit
can not charge your new AA batteries with the 1n4004 diode
installed). It's not required on a 5500, but it's a damn good idea
(since Bally used rechargables on earlier slots).

next i put in THREE "aa" batteries. Not 2, but 3. That's about
4.6 volts (there is a voltage drop with the 1n4004 diode), which
is below 5 volts, and the RAM likes that.

The advantage to 3 AA batteries is obviously longer battery
life. Two AA's will die rather quickly. The bally 5500 series
is a battery hog!  Those stupid lithium 3.6 solder-in batteries
only last about a year (opposed to the same battery lasting
10 years in an IGT S+).

Next I hang the battery pack on the OUTSIDE of the circuit
board frame. The battery holders i get already have double
sided foam tape on them, so it's just "peel and stick".
This is a good thing to do (hanging the battery outside),
as it allows a battery change WITH THE GAME POWERED ON.
(Also if the batteries leak, they don't get on the board.)

This means as soon as you get the "81" low battery error,
just power up, remove the old batteries, put in new batteries.
Now power down and then power back on. 81 error gone,
and you don't have to mess with doing a "clear". it's simple and fast.

By the way, i do this on IGT S+ games too, and it works
great there too. You won't be doing any set or clear chip
dancing.

and screw buying those expensive 3.6 volt lithium batteries!
I get my 4 bang AA battery holder for 60 cents, and
three AA batteries for less than $1.

I will upload pictures tomorrow of a Bally 5500 pro.
Below is a picture of the same mod on a Williams 40x.
It's not a good as on a Bally or IGT (because i have
to hang the batteries out temporarily on a Wms when changing
them to prevent a clear, where on Bally or IGT they always
outside the board "cage").

Also notice i put a switch on the RAM CLEAR jumper,
so i can do a ram clear without removing the board.

[StatFreak]

Re: Wms battery replacement

[StatFreak]

Re: Wms battery replacement
« Reply #2 on: August 18, 2008, 11:49:57 PM »

Just to add some facts about diodes...
The average 1N4000 family of diodes exibits a forward drop of 0.7 Volts. The higher voltage series (1N4004,1N4005 ETC) will have more voltage drop due to the fact they are really a stack of diodes in one case. (this is how they get the higher voltage rating).
The 1N4000 thru 1N4002 are perfect for this use as well as any silicon diode rated around 50 to 200 volts.
You might want to consider 3 1.2 volt Lithium cells..no diodes and a shelf life of over 4 years....food for thought.

Kirk

[StatFreak]

Re: Wms battery replacement
« Reply #3 on: August 19, 2008, 04:09:13 AM »

The whole point of the AA remote pack is to NOT use lithiums.
Lithiums are expensive and not readily available from my
local drug store.

Re: Wms battery replacement
« Reply #12 on: August 19, 2008, 09:41:01 PM »

Sorry....
The "Lithiums" I was referring to are the "AA" sized ones from NeverReady/Energizer, available at WAL*MART,Target and other places. They push them for use in digital cameras.
They do last forever, somewhat cheap and fit a regular battery case. The ones I just picked up have a shelf life dated "2020" They have a terminal voltage of 1.5 volts.
The nice part is they won't leak and eat up the case or PCB. They are usually rated around 1800-2200MaH. Since the RAM consumes a few mils, the battery will last forever.

[jdkmunch]

If I use 3 lithium AAs - I don't need a diode?

[bruno]

JDK, I'm about to do the same install.
So, do we need the diode ?

[jdkmunch]

Unknown - im waiting to hear



My guess would yes

As I think the previous posts indicated
The diode prevented backwash charge

[proten]

yes, that is why the diode is there.

[poppo]

On the issue of a diode, the general rule would be if the original battery was a rechargeable one, then yes you need a diode to prevent charging the non-rechargeable batteries. If the original was non-rechargeable battery, then the board most likely already has a diode. However, no harm will come if you put one in and it does not need it. Just make sure it's installed the right way.

[bruno]

Poppo thank you for the info.

[actionpaintball]

An additional diode would just act as a double check valve.

[Simple Sam]

How about instead of using non-rechargeable lithium cells, you use low self discharge NiMH cells like Sanyo Eneloops? They are readily available on the internet and Costco frequently has them.  They last a long time, also don't have leakage issues, and can be recharged if desired.

[aldaran2k1]

Hi. I'm new to the entire slot machine world.  My uncle got an older bally machine.  the MPU board states its a s6000.  The model number on the machine is S62B3R6P0 and manufactured on 01/03.  When we plugged it in, it went through its tests but all the lights are flashing.  The bigger display on top switches from $0.00 to C1 and repeats.  The lower display near the buttons show 8100.  Does that mean the battery is dead and the machine will have to be re-programmed?