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Author Topic: Bally S6000 With Progresive Problem  (Read 17327 times)
Hotrodslots69
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If all the smoke gets out it won't work anymore!


« on: September 23, 2011, 05:37:09 PM »

Just picked up a Bally 6000 with a Mikohn progressive and the game works ok but the progressive has a C1 and $0.00 and that's all, what do I need to do to clear this. This is my first progressive so its all new to me. I can tell you that the main is a progressive stand alone 341-075-05 with a 341-010-30 and 341-010-10 display.  I do have a bally 6000 manual but don't have a mikohn manual. I have made sure that everything is plugged in correctly, i believe it is but there is a cable on j4 that is red and black wire that goes to bottom of game and is cut not hooked to anything, and I do not think it is to be connected?  Help
Thanks in advance  Scratch Head


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bruno
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« Reply #1 on: September 23, 2011, 07:43:37 PM »

C1 = Communication link is down
You will find useful information in the thread  : "Mikohn Progressive Controllers Displays and other info"
Mikohn & PSP Manuals : PM sent.
Bruno   wave
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bruno
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« Reply #2 on: September 23, 2011, 10:28:54 PM »

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Hotrodslots69
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« Reply #3 on: September 24, 2011, 02:32:30 AM »

When a casino uses a progressive and its removed from service is machine normally set up for multi machine progressive and not stand alone even trough it has a stand alone controller? Scratch Head
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Foster
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« Reply #4 on: September 24, 2011, 02:46:19 AM »

The machine would be set up for a linked progressive, since the mikohn controller handles the progressive values.

Normally stand alone would mean that the slot machine would handle the progressive values.
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« Reply #5 on: September 24, 2011, 02:58:22 AM »

Based on what i have digested so far and based on the sticker on the board I have a stand alone but it was used as a linked and I need to use PSP software to shange the setting from linked to stand alone?
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« Reply #6 on: September 24, 2011, 03:14:36 AM »

Change the JP Group (via the switch and buttons on the board) to SA

Then you use PSP to program the progressive.
You need to make sure that F4 and F8 setting in Jackpot Programming are configured for your machine.
I hope you got the PSP manual as well. it will explain those settings in detail.
If not the controller and machine will not communicate properly, probably why you are getting the C1 error.

I know on the IGT S2000 platform if the Cham II+ is not operating the machine will tilt with a  linked progressive down on its VFD.
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Hotrodslots69
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« Reply #7 on: September 24, 2011, 03:21:14 AM »

I have the manuals and PSP software just have to find a computer that has older windows to run the PSP may have to build up a XP machine, unless someone can tell my how to make it work with Vistive 32 bit Thanks for the help guys K+ to all
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Foster
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« Reply #8 on: September 24, 2011, 03:32:38 AM »

The easy way would be to get Sun VirtualBox (a virtual machine application)
install XP in it
Configure the Serial port in virtualBox setting for your XP guest machine so that when XP starts, it can see the serial port
verify the guest os (XP) can see the serial port then load psp in XP

I have to do the same (except I had USB to serial adapter) I been able to use XP installed on A Virtual Box virtual machine successfully to run PSP to program my Cham II+ and to use a EPROM programmer when the computers main OS is Vista, Windows 7, and Mac OS X (Leopard, Snow Leopard, and Lion)
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Hotrodslots69
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« Reply #9 on: September 24, 2011, 03:36:15 AM »

So I can use a USB to serial adapter and be OK because I do not have a 9 pin out on my laptop just USB's
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Hotrodslots69
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« Reply #10 on: September 24, 2011, 08:02:45 PM »

Do I need a password for PSP it keeps asking for one?

never mind  Silly Me! Silly Me! Silly Me! Silly Me! Silly Me! Silly Me! Silly Me! Silly Me! Silly Me! Silly Me! Silly Me! Silly Me! Silly Me! Silly Me!
« Last Edit: September 24, 2011, 08:24:51 PM by Hotrodslots69 » Logged



bruno
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« Reply #11 on: September 24, 2011, 10:55:11 PM »

For a Bally Stand Alone, it's better to choose "OLD" in the PSP Menu.
The password is 135642
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« Reply #12 on: September 25, 2011, 02:45:42 AM »

Old refers how PSP communicates with the Mikohn controller, now how the controller communicates with the gaming machine.
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« Reply #13 on: September 25, 2011, 07:33:31 AM »

...
I have to do the same (except I had USB to serial adapter) ...

Foster, wasn't there some difficulty at the time in finding an adapter that would work (could be recognized by PSP)? Scratch Head 2
If so, can you re-post the make/model of adapter that you're using?
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« Reply #14 on: September 25, 2011, 08:05:27 AM »

USB to Serial based on the FTDI chip set www.ftdichip.com.
I got mine years ago from Ham Radio Outlet.

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« Reply #15 on: September 25, 2011, 08:49:14 AM »

...
I have to do the same (except I had USB to serial adapter) ...

Foster, wasn't there some difficulty at the time in finding an adapter that would work (could be recognized by PSP)? Scratch Head 2
If so, can you re-post the make/model of adapter that you're using?


USB to Serial based on the FTDI chip set www.ftdichip.com.
I got mine years ago from Ham Radio Outlet.



Thanks.  wave
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Hotrodslots69
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« Reply #16 on: September 25, 2011, 03:32:17 PM »

I am having a problem when I talk to the controller from my computer, in PSP I can receive from the controller but when I try to send it asks for a password? Any ideas or is this a communication problem between my usb to serial adapter and XP to the controller. I can see whats on the controller but not write to it, it seems like I have the ability to have RX but no TX.  Help  and I am using a cross over cable. also went from a C1 to A C10 error after changing the controller to a Stand alone.
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Hotrodslots69
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« Reply #17 on: September 25, 2011, 09:46:49 PM »

I'm getting closer can see progressive $ amount but now I have a C14 error ?????? Help
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Foster
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« Reply #18 on: September 25, 2011, 10:20:57 PM »

C14 - Selected Machine Serial setting not supported.

Sounds like you need to adjust your F4 Machine Type and F8 Serial Protocol settings

Older machines (E series) were only capable of one progressive JP, so they used the short coin,
long JP method. Recommended machine type is M-00 or M-05.

Newer machines (5000 and newer series) support two interface styles. One style is a relay board
capable of up to three JPs. Recommended machine type is M-00 or M-05 if coin and JP0 are
multiplexed on the same line, or M-02 if coin and JP0 are on separate lines. The other style
interface is an RS-232 port. This is used with the Multicomm and supports multiple JPs and
Nevada Reg. 14 signals. Recommended machine type is M-05 with machine serial set for MS01.

If you have the PSP manual look at it closely. I am not familiar how the 6000 is interfaces to the Cham II+

The Bally gurus probably know how to do it.
« Last Edit: September 25, 2011, 10:26:40 PM by Foster » Logged

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« Reply #19 on: September 25, 2011, 10:51:09 PM »

I adjusted to F4=M08 and F8=MS00 cleared the C14 error, progressive now displays but no increase in progressive. From the reading i have done it seams that I should have:

J13, PIN 1 --> J7, PIN 3
J13, PIN 10 --> J7, PIN 13
J14, PIN 2 --> J7, PIN 10
J14, PIN 3 --> J7, PIN 9

I have the 4 wires in the controller but only 2 at the backplane at J14 nothing on J13 is this the problem ?
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StatFreak
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« Reply #20 on: September 26, 2011, 12:45:40 AM »

Stickied post at the top of this board:

CHAMII+ & Bally S-5500 Settings


The S6000 is very similar. Here is the old thread covering the 6000. It's not as succinct as the one above.

CHAMII+ & Bally S-6000 Settings


Stat garfield
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« Reply #21 on: September 26, 2011, 08:36:27 PM »

I installed every progressive for S-6000 based on StatFreak's settings (first link : CHAMII+ & Bally S-5500 Settings),
and it works PERFECT    yes
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Hotrodslots69
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« Reply #22 on: September 29, 2011, 01:22:21 PM »

Got it to work but the display is missing a line horizontally left to Right the fist 6 of 12 cells, is this a display problem or a driver problem?  Help


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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #23 on: September 29, 2011, 01:27:02 PM »

Burned out resistor on the back of the Mikohn display panel for that particular horizontal row.
You need to pinpoint it and change it out in order to get it to lit up.
If it's the LED itself (You can check to see if the other colors light up on it via the color tests),
then you'll have to change out the entire LED cell squares affecting that area.

Check the pins on the board headers and harness as well...could be just an oxidized pin too.
Spray the male pins and female receptor pins with some electronic cleaner spray such as pictured below
or get the stuff from Radio Shack called "De-Oxit" which works well too.
Let it completely dry out before re-connecting >>>


* electronics cleaner spray can.jpg (167.45 KB, 620x1848 - viewed 554 times.)
« Last Edit: September 29, 2011, 01:36:09 PM by stayouttadabunker » Logged
Hotrodslots69
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« Reply #24 on: September 29, 2011, 01:42:35 PM »

I shall give those things a try!!! Thanks  Hail Hail Hail
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