CC-16D Comparitor amperage question

[BCD]

I'm Rube Goldberging a coin sorter with a CMI CC-16D comparitor.  The comparitor is the 13V model.  I have all kinds of 12V and 14V DC adapters but no 13V.  If I use a 12V or 14V with a 1.5 amp output will it fry a comparitor board electrical component or does the comparitor draw just the current it needs which I believe is something less than 300ma?
Thanks in advance for any help you can offer.

[StatFreak]

BCD


I don't know the answer to your question but I'd love to see pictures of your R.G. sorter when it's done.    (Will it have marbles and dominos? (just kidding.)   I love marbles and dominos in R.G. contraptions.  )

We have another member here who also likes to build Frankenstein devices (although not technically of the Rube Goldberg variety). His name is Stayouttadabunker. He'll introduce himself soon, no doubt.

Enjoy the site.

StatFreak
  Global Moderator


P.S. Are BCD your initials or did you intend your member name to represent the abbreviation of binary coded decimal?

[stayouttadabunker]

It's a very good question actually because even Coin Mechanisms Inc. won't
divulge that information unless you're a "client member".
I was not able to pull up board drawing of the IC components though I'm sure I have it on my computer at work.

I too would love to see your Frankenstein....lol  
After, I'm a guy that once made a coin dispenser
utilizing the hopper and guts of an S+...

[BCD]

LOL!! If the members  of this forum are anything like StatFreak and stayouttadabunker I KNOW I found "family!"  This is gonna be one he*l of a lot of fun, I'm still laughin'.  I'll post a pic or two when (if) it ever works reliably.  I just came up from the dungeon, my wife says I'm a troll, and am happy that I finally got a coin delivery system that works.  Using Lexan, clamps, screws, and a heat gun that doesn't differentiate between fingers and plastic I THINK I can consistently get coins where I want them.  As for marbles and dominoes...I'm having enough trouble with Lincoln's, Jefferson's, and Roosevelt's, marbles and dominoes are next month.  Now I have to find a reliable coin compari(a)tor and/or quit frying it.

BCD are my initials.  Lord knows I had enough trouble with first semester calculus so binary coded decimals?!?  Don't count on it.

If any of you know of someplace to get a good used 12V or 13V CMI CC-16D comparitor I like to hear about it.  I'm to cheap to buy a new one for $100+ right now from CMI.

Again guys, thanks for the replies.

Bart

Thanks for the "Welcome" notes, I sure appreciate it!

[StatFreak]

You can get used comparitors for much less than that from our trusted vendors. I'm also hoping that Jim (member name) or one of our other electronics experts will be able to tell you about the maximum current allowances of the CC's.

My instinct is to say that current won't hurt it for the reason you postulated in your first post (it will draw what it needs), but I hesitate to tell you to just try it and see.

...  ...I THINK I can consistently get coins where I want them. 
...

I'm afraid to ask where that might be!     

...As for marbles and dominoes...I'm having enough trouble with Lincoln's, Jefferson's, and Roosevelt's, marbles and dominoes are next month. 
...

  I was actually thinking more along the lines of using marbles and dominos as part of the working mechanism that sorts the coins rather than as objects to be sorted... ... but then I'm just nuts...     

[cowboygames]

The 12v would probably work fine, or the 14 for that matter. It's more about power, having enough, than having the exact voltage. Your 12v adapter probably puts out around 13.5 with no load on it anyway

[StatFreak]

The 12v would probably work fine, or the 14 for that matter. It's more about power, having enough, than having the exact voltage. Your 12v adapter probably puts out around 13.5 with no load on it anyway

The voltage isn't in question; it's the amperage he's concerned about.

My basic understanding of electronics suggests that the device won't draw more current than it needs, but I'm not going to be the one to tell him that 1.5A won't damage any of the components on the CC board.

[stayouttadabunker]

I don't recommend this but I'm going to post it anyways....lol
This is for tinkerers only!

I realize that he doesn't seem to have an adjustable bench top voltage
power supply like mine but you'll never know...
If he does... then what I would do, is adjust the power supply
for 13 volts and turn down the amperage all the way down.
Turn on the juice and raise the amperage knob slowly until the red light goes away.
That's when it turns green and the amps drawn are sufficient but not overloaded.

If he doesn't have a bench power supply, and is only using wallwart adapters - then
I'd wait for a good answer on the correct amp rating
or his adapters will surge the coin comparitor
and fry an IC component out.

Elsewhere on this humongous website is some schematics and coin comparitor pinouts. I'd start doing a search for those threads utilizing the search box upstairs somewhere on the home page. 

[Foster]

I would try a 12V 300mA-500mA supply.
Anything within 1V of 13V usually wont be any issue.

Think about the S2000 the 13V side of the supply is probably capable of 20A - 30A

[StatFreak]

I would try a 12V 300mA-500mA supply.
Anything within 1V of 13V usually wont be any issue.

Think about the S2000 the 13V side of the supply is probably capable of 20A - 30A

He's already stated that his available supply voltage can be either 12V or 14V at 1.5A and his concern is that the amperage will damage the comparitor (not the voltage). I think you've confirmed that the amperage is not an issue and that he'll be fine.

[BCD]

THANKS to all of you that have replied!!!
I've learned more (or probably understood more) on this site in the last 24 hours than in the last week poring over CMI spec sheets, schematics, and other websites.  It sounds to me like the 14V, 1.5 amp, wall wart I used might not be the problem even though the comparitor is 13V and has a range of somewhere around 175ma to 300ma.  No matter what wall wart I try from 12V to 14V I can't get the rake to move anymore.

I came across some postings explaining how to adjust the air null and sensor contacts on the CC-16D.  I figured this would be fun to try since re-arranging wall warts was losing it's appeal.  Took me a couple of minutes to figure out what the devil "air null" is.  I'd still like to know where they came up with that moniker...  Anyhoo, dangling a coin on the end of a hunk of tape and playing with the contacts was a dead end.  Only consolation was the critter wasn't working before I started dangling and adjusting and it sure as he*l didn't after dangling and adjusting.  So, no harm now foul.

Good thought on the benchtop power source.  I've seen that mentioned before and thought it would be a good addition to an already overcrowded workbench.  'Sides, another gizmo will rankle my wife a bit which will be a good reason to fetch up one of them oscilloscopes CMI crows about.  I'll hook it up to the misses and let her see her amplitude is way out of wack.  If that doesn't burn the 'scope out I'd use it to adjust the comparitor.  On second thought, I should test the comparitor first.  Might get the comparitor working before blowing the 'scope by hooking up to my little moonbeam.

LOL about the coins getting to where I want them.  To the comparitor my friend, to the comparitor.

Definitely will take a look at the trusted vendors for a used comparitor.  Thanks for the suggestion.

Again guys, thanks for all of your time, postings, and info.  Darn glad I became a member and definitely worth the $$ contributon to help deray site costs.

Bart

P.S.  I'm having enough trouble trying to get coins, comparitors, wall warts, and grill motors marching in the same direction.  Throwing marbles and dominoes into the mix will make it like trying to herd wet cats!








       

[TZtech]

Hello BCD and welcome to NLG

I posted some schematics for the CC16 a while back in this thread - http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=12373.msg108092#msg108092
Chances are good that your CC16 is the inhibit type. This means that apart from the power supply lines there is another pin that expects a signal from the machine to tell it to enable. A GND on pin 6 to take enable low should get it working

Ian

[jbshocks]

I was messing with a 24v CC40 a few weeks back and it would power up on 12v but would not open the rake.  Do you have grey wires going to the rake which would be 24v from what I can tell or are they the green?

[stayouttadabunker]

Normally the green wires are for a 13V CC.

[BCD]

Hello BCD and welcome to NLG

I posted some schematics for the CC16 a while back in this thread - http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=12373.msg108092#msg108092
Chances are good that your CC16 is the inhibit type. This means that apart from the power supply lines there is another pin that expects a signal from the machine to tell it to enable. A GND on pin 6 to take enable low should get it working

Ian

Hi Ian,

NICE action pic, or whatever it's called, of the girl on the beach.  When I finally stopped watching it I forgot what I was going to post!  You're exactly right, the CC16D is the inhibit model.  I had pin 6 grounded from the get-go and the comparitor worked great for about 150 coins then it up and died.

Thanks for the post!
Bart

[BCD]

Thanks for chiming in jbshocks.  The wires to the rake solenoid are green.

[StatFreak]

...
Again guys, thanks for all of your time, postings, and info.  Darn glad I became a member and definitely worth the $$ contributon to help deray site costs.

Bart
...

Contributions are always welcome and appreciated.

Don't forget to include your member name when donating so that Joey knows who sent the money. There should be a link that you can open to add a text comment. If you've already donated and didn't do this, send Joey a pm to let him know.

Stat
  Global Moderator

[BCD]

HAPPY HOLIDAYS!

Best of holiday wishes to all that helped with the Rube Goldberg coin gizmo.  "Our" coin sorter works great sorting 300-350 pennies/minute...so long as the comparitor doesn't jam.

I'm now learning about DC circuits, resistors, amps, ohm,volts, etc. so I can wire up a circuit to power this critter, and its extra components, with a single 24V wall wart instead of three  different voltage warts.

Hope this holiday season finds you in good health, good fortune, and good cheer!

Again, thank you.
Bart