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Author Topic: Aristocrat LUCKY STRIKE video gaming machine vintage 1993  (Read 23726 times)
palindrome
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« Reply #25 on: October 12, 2011, 07:37:16 AM »

No

You would get a  *MAIN-DOOR SWITCH FAULT* if either one has not been detected.


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rickoshay
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« Reply #26 on: October 12, 2011, 06:04:53 PM »

Thanx, that's a relief. Can you tell me something else I can check?
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palindrome
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« Reply #27 on: October 12, 2011, 08:54:05 PM »

I don't think you understand that a main door switch fault would be a much better scenario, that would indicate that something is working properly.
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rickoshay
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« Reply #28 on: October 12, 2011, 09:26:32 PM »

Yes, you are right, when I said I know nothing about this machine I meant it, but I am determined, with help, to sort it out
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palindrome
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« Reply #29 on: October 12, 2011, 09:52:11 PM »

At this point I would be looking at replacing the memory board first and go from there.
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rickoshay
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« Reply #30 on: October 12, 2011, 11:02:06 PM »

Okay, where would I get a memory board?
I did check the push button switch and when door is closed 5VDC, when closed 0VDC
I measured the voltage at the pins on the vertical pcb for the optic under the push button, when the door is closed 0.18VDC, when open 0.25VDC
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palindrome
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« Reply #31 on: October 13, 2011, 03:13:09 AM »

You are just measuring the voltage from the door emitter but that's no use because that has to go somewhere.

Before I give you further instructions locate the chip labelled U3 and report back here. If its marked PML 2852 then I can
help guide you.
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proten
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« Reply #32 on: October 13, 2011, 08:44:55 PM »

This looks like the board you have.

http://www.worldwide-gaming.com/s/Aristocrat-Mark-2.5-CPU-Board.html

And this should be the I/O board.

http://www.worldwide-gaming.com/s/Aristocrat-Mark-2.5-IO-Controller-Board.html


$85 for spare boards is a good deal!
« Last Edit: October 13, 2011, 09:06:31 PM by proten » Logged

One step at a time.
rickoshay
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« Reply #33 on: October 13, 2011, 08:54:34 PM »

There is a U3 on the board with the red buttons - SN74HC244N
There is a U3 on the video processor board which has had a blue sticker put on top - V1/U3, peeled it off - N82S123N FMS3578 9305VI
Piggy backed on top of the video processor board add on Video Board character shapes is a U3 - SN74LS323N
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rickoshay
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« Reply #34 on: October 13, 2011, 08:57:32 PM »

Yes, same board 40125
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palindrome
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« Reply #35 on: October 13, 2011, 09:04:57 PM »

Don't peel anything off in future you could erase data if the chip has a window under the sticker.

Unfortunately I can't really help you any further, not without a schematic of the 2.5 or some really high
resolution photos of each board.

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rickoshay
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« Reply #36 on: October 13, 2011, 09:40:48 PM »

Thanks for your help and advice
My IO board has printed PCB - 40125 but has a sticker PCBA-MK2.5 ENH V 40126-A and is a little different to the one at worldwide gaming
« Last Edit: October 13, 2011, 10:02:27 PM by rickoshay » Logged
rickoshay
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« Reply #37 on: October 13, 2011, 09:46:00 PM »

edtruman posted that his Caribbean Gold looks the same and doesn't use a U2 on the memory board. Do you know if this Lucky Strike needs this U2?
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palindrome
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« Reply #38 on: October 15, 2011, 04:26:24 AM »

I wouldn't worry too much about it.   That empty socket could be used for quality assurance purposes at the factory or for testing but without a manual its impossible to know what it is for. Its not uncommon to have missing chips on PCBs, this happens for a variety of different reasons...  redesign, cost cutting, fixing hardware bugs.. etc.
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rickoshay
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« Reply #39 on: October 15, 2011, 05:45:38 AM »

Thanx again for your input, wish I didn't rush into it and fuck things up!
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martymoose
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« Reply #40 on: November 02, 2011, 03:55:32 AM »

I just scored a idol dreams
so i can look at my board if can help you

can the roms be changed to a new game?
cheers
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Gaming1
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« Reply #41 on: November 02, 2011, 09:40:13 AM »

This is my first post, am new to this and sorry if i'm in the wrong area, anyway....I am in Australia and I was given an Aristocrat LUCKY STRIKE video gaming machine vintage 1993, the screen/game play is frozen showing "memory card disabled". I have had a look and see that a U2 memory chip is missing. Of course I am wanting to replace this chip, can anyone offer any help or advice please?
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Gaming1
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« Reply #42 on: November 02, 2011, 09:43:59 AM »

I would check the driver board there are uln2003 ic for the optics and the lucky strike came out not needing the memory board unless you needed hard meter connection for subsidury equipment
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rickoshay
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« Reply #43 on: November 02, 2011, 06:53:56 PM »

Thanx to all for showing an interest in my post, Lucky Strike now sits on the floor in the garage. This is a summary of my short dealings with Lucky Strike, no steps forward, many steps back. I have really screwed up, should have done a bit of research before rushing in. I acquired a 1993 Mk 2.5 video gaming machine with a frozen screen showing MEMORY BOARD DISCONNECTED. The guy I got it from said it will never work again as a chip has been removed from the U2 socket on the memory board. After posting on New Life Games edtruman said his working Caribbean Gold is the same type machine and doesn’t have a chip in the U2 socket. Palindrome suggested checking the ribbon cable on the memory board which I stupidly did with the power on and shorted the memory board on the hopper handle. The screen then showed ***MAIN-DOOR OPEN***. Trying to determine if the push button and optic switches were damaged, again with the power on, I shorted the two optic sensor pins on vertical board at the rear of the machine, now it shows CREDIT WIN BET 25. Proten suggested purchasing a PCB 40125 board from worldwide gaming. I have emailed them and am waiting a reply.


* IMG20111014_002.jpg (1404.26 KB, 2048x1536 - viewed 419 times.)
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palindrome
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« Reply #44 on: November 05, 2011, 09:05:57 PM »

That screen looks very familiar. Whatever you did  I'd bet on it that you've blown the 6522A VIA chip. I can reproduce the exact same problem in MAME by removing the address mapping to it ( no signal present on the CPUs FIRQ input line ). So basically the software is waiting for an interrupt and is not getting it.

I'd be looking at buying a complete new system. It's toast.
« Last Edit: November 06, 2011, 07:28:11 PM by palindrome » Logged
PHALANAX
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« Reply #45 on: November 06, 2011, 06:36:56 AM »

Id try this...turn the machine off at the wall and at the internal power supply...reconnect the main door optics...and replace everything you removed (restoring the unit to how you first came across it).....then turn on at wall and at internal power supply whilst pressing the robot test switch in  ...then close the main door and wait 20 secs then engage both key resets breifly then  disengage them and  turn the machine off for at least 20 seconds. from the wall.....then...repower from the wall without opening the door ...wait about 5 mins...if nothing happens turn off and try again from the wall....if nothing  still happens..turn off at wall .....open the main door and turn the internal power supply off......then turn on at wall....and with main door open turn on internal mains......check to see if the coin comparator is lighting up (could take a few minutes..if its not lighting suspect as faulty note this and carry on) ... turn off....try again.....if not turn off and  pull the switching assembly to either the collect ...change or take win button ( i used the take win )..disconnect and tape off the wiring noting its configuration ...use the switching assembly to interchange with your bet line  gamble buttons etc....Im thinking you may have a faulty button or 2 on the button deck (a switch unit or 2 that is interupting the robots ability to self test and or reset)...(i had 2 faulty switch sets on my GNR poker machine and it played havoc leaving me with a frozen screen..initially a hopper empty error ...which changed to a...main door open message.(after replacing one dodgy switch)..once I tracked down the second dodgy switch... I was able to get the machine to robot test.....Im thinking if your video board was knackered you wouldnt have such a decent image on your screen....Worth a shot I reckon......cant make things any worse than they already are...Goodluck...ps I completely removed and taped off my collect switch wiring....i used it as my second switch checker and its stops me having to worry about a hopper refill error arising in future....find a switch you know is good and interchange it ....its worth a shot i reckon.....Obversely you could try just removing the wiring to one switching unit at a time and seeing if you can get robot mode.......
« Last Edit: November 06, 2011, 06:57:33 AM by PHALANAX » Logged
t4799
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« Reply #46 on: November 22, 2011, 07:47:53 AM »

Hi,
Did you manage to get this working again, as I notice there is one for sale now.
« Last Edit: November 22, 2011, 08:00:13 AM by t4799 » Logged
rickoshay
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« Reply #47 on: November 22, 2011, 06:25:53 PM »

No, still not working  hissy fit
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t4799
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« Reply #48 on: November 22, 2011, 06:45:14 PM »

No, still not working  hissy fit

Oh well this one is working:
http://sydney.gumtree.com.au/c-Stuff-for-Sale-other-stuff-for-sale-Pokies-W0QQAdIdZ332302205
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volts1776
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« Reply #49 on: November 23, 2011, 05:01:18 AM »

That is definitely a Mk 2.5 board you can turn it over and it marked there clearly. And that is not a dip switch, they are jumper posts.
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