CAPACITOR question

[shortrackskater]

While I'm responding to all 0 replies on my other post, I have another question:
The Delay Relay capacitor on my Bally 809 is leaking... It's supposed to be 30 MFD. All I can find so far at the local electronics store is a 33 MFD. Does anyone know if that will work without damaging the hopper?

[cowboygames]

We were always taught that using a higher voltage capacitor was fine and even better in some cases, but ALWAYS match the mfd. That being said, I don't know if 3 mic would really make a differance, but it's one of the few rules I never chose to break so my answer would be, if you do it, do it in a way that you can test it and remove power quickly if sh&t heads south on you. Best bet is probably to wait for a better answer though

[jbshocks]

I learned the same rule as cowboy on caps. These were exceptions that you can change but you better know what you are doing.  its usually just a couple days from digikey

[proten]

Here is the delay board for the E1000.
Is this the same as yours?

[config]

rule of thumb up 10% is ok. so I would use it.

[config]

Here is the delay board for the E1000.
Is this the same as yours?

Pro** the EM machines do not have a board. I assume the cap in question is the one on the payout relay? or hopper. in either case I think the 33mfg at the proper voltage "50+ vac" or more!! would work just fine.
I have just finished a complete goover of a 809. Ticks like a timex!

[shortrackskater]

If you put your hand on the hopper handle, then run it down below (sheesh this sounds nasty) you'll hit the relay. The cap is right behind it and is wired in parallel.
Thanks for the help so far everyone.
mark

[config]

If you put your hand on the hopper handle, then run it down below (sheesh this sounds nasty) you'll hit the relay. The cap is right behind it and is wired in parallel.
Thanks for the help so far everyone.
mark

I see the relay, it is used across the relay coil. plenty of room for a replacement! just make sure the voltage is equal or better. there is 110volt running around in there as well as the hopper motor is 110volts.

[shortrackskater]

My replacement cap is 33uf 250 volt electrolytic, but not cardboard!
Do you know if this problem (old cap was leaking) could account for odd payout problems? I have another post with this problem but have not received any answers.

[config]

My replacement cap is 33uf 250 volt electrolytic, but not cardboard!
Do you know if this problem (old cap was leaking) could account for odd payout problems? I have another post with this problem but have not received any answers.

My replacement cap is 33uf 250 volt electrolytic, but not cardboard!
Do you know if this problem (old cap was leaking) could account for odd payout problems? I have another post with this problem but have not received any answers.

thats fine, if you note there is a - sine or + sine on one end. hookup makes no diff. as u are working with ac.

good luck

[shortrackskater]

Thanks! That helps since I'm a little lost with EM's sometimes.
 

[poppo]

thats fine, if you note there is a - sine or + sine on one end. hookup makes no diff. as u are working with ac.

good luck

Unless I am misunderstanding what you are saying, that is not correct. There are two types of capacitors. Polarized and non-polarized. A non-polarized is used for AC. A polarized one (with a + or - lead) is for DC. Using a polorized one on AC can cause it to burst.

[shortrackskater]

My old original cap is polarized.

[poppo]

My old original cap is polarized.

As noted above 33uf should be be fine. The voltage rating can always be higher (not lower). And a polarized one should always be replaced with a polarized one. Especially if it is in some sort of timer circuit, as it needs to hold a charge (like a battery) for a period of time (depending on the circuit).

[shortrackskater]

I'll solder the cap in tomorrow and report back. Thanks.

[config]

My old original cap is polarized.

As noted above 33uf should be be fine. The voltage rating can always be higher (not lower). And a polarized one should always be replaced with a polarized one. Especially if it is in some sort of timer circuit, as it needs to hold a charge (like a battery) for a period of time (depending on the circuit).

popo, your right,  my statment was not complete or posed correctly. should be of same type






MODERATOR: Removed reply from quote box. SF 

[shortrackskater]

The capacitor is neatly soldered in and has not blown up! I believe it works. 
Now, back to my other post.

[poppo]

The capacitor is neatly soldered in and has not blown up!

You have to put your ear really close to it to hear if it is sizzling before it blows. 

Seriously, glad it's working. 

[config]

The capacitor is neatly soldered in and has not blown up!

You have to put your ear really close to it to hear if it is sizzling before it blows. 

Seriously, glad it's working. 

Great, hope it holds!

[stayouttadabunker]

The capacitor is neatly soldered in and has not blown up!

You have to put your ear really close to it to hear if it is sizzling before it blows.  ...

I'd use a stethoscope and goggles.
Thick welders gloves and a leather welding jacket...
maybe even motorcycle helmet with a full-face shield too...