Hantarex POLO3/ 10 Monitor dead, chassis good...

[mwade109]

Hello,  I have a game, Borg Contact, that has 2 - 10" screens and one of them shows no sign of life.  I have had the chassis rebuilt and got it back and still nothing.  I took the rebuilt chassis and traded it with the other monitor and the rebuilt chassis and neck board work great on the non-dead monitor. The picture tube shows no light at the end when turned on so I have to assume it is something with the tube itself or the yoke.  Now, I am no electronic expert,  I can swap parts and use my multimeter for small (very small)tasks.  If someone can tell me what to check with the meter and what results I'm looking for I can do that. If anyone can help please do as i cannot find one of these monitors anywhere I look.

Thanks
mike

[cowboygames]

Best bet if you have a known good chassis and CRT board is either 1) You,re not getting power to the chassis on the non-working side or 2) you've got a short in the neck of the CRT on the bad side and the tube is shot. Use your multimeter to check for power on the board on the bad side, might be just a bad fuse on the power feed to that board. If you have power and the board works on the other side then you have a bad tube and your options are going to be pretty limited, because a tube rejuvinator can sometimes fix those, but it's very hard to do on a cold tube. They like them to be warmed up before cleaning. Keep your fingers crossed for no power to the board

[mwade109]

I can take the working monitor on the left and mount it on the right and it works fine,  and put the left one on the right and still it has no interest in working. Definitely not power issue.... I wish it was.
Thanks....
Anyone have a 10" CRT for sale?
-mike

Best bet if you have a known good chassis and CRT board is either 1) You,re not getting power to the chassis on the non-working side or 2) you've got a short in the neck of the CRT on the bad side and the tube is shot. Use your multimeter to check for power on the board on the bad side, might be just a bad fuse on the power feed to that board. If you have power and the board works on the other side then you have a bad tube and your options are going to be pretty limited, because a tube rejuvinator can sometimes fix those, but it's very hard to do on a cold tube. They like them to be warmed up before cleaning. Keep your fingers crossed for no power to the board

[cowboygames]

Did you actually swap the picture tubes from one side to the other? The reason I ask is, being a commercial machine, the power supply to each of the monitor setups could come from the same base source, but seperated and fused individually. It could be a 12vdc supply or a 120vac supply depending on how the chassis are laid out, but swapping the boards only, from one side to another, wouldn't neccessarily indicate power going to the non-working side. I'd need to see a picture of where the power plugs into the board to be able to tell which voltage input they used, but it doesn't really matter because you can put your meter on the power leads and check for one or the other voltage. I repaired consumer electronics for 20 years and only saw a handful of dead picture tubes that had no visible indication of why they didn't work.

[mwade109]

Hello, here is my turn of events with this monitor..... I had sent the entire monitor/chassis to East Coast Amusments at first because it was completely dead,  I figured it needed to be recapped.  They sent it back, said it was capped and they jumped some cracked traces on the chassis and sent it back.  I mounted it in the game and it was doing the same thing it does now, nothing.  I called them and they said it worked when they had it and to just to send the chassis this time,  I did, they tested it and it worked fine. When I got the chassis back, I put it back together again and same thing,  no action at all.  That's when i decided to put the chassis they repaired into the known working monitor and yes,  the chassis works.  I have swapped the good and bad monitors between sides,  hooking to their power plugs assigned that side and no matter where I put the dead one ... it remains dead.  Although they said they saw it working,  I'm not convinced 100% of that because it has exactly the same symptoms as before I sent it.
I need some magic.
-mike

Did you actually swap the picture tubes from one side to the other? The reason I ask is, being a commercial machine, the power supply to each of the monitor setups could come from the same base source, but seperated and fused individually. It could be a 12vdc supply or a 120vac supply depending on how the chassis are laid out, but swapping the boards only, from one side to another, wouldn't neccessarily indicate power going to the non-working side. I'd need to see a picture of where the power plugs into the board to be able to tell which voltage input they used, but it doesn't really matter because you can put your meter on the power leads and check for one or the other voltage. I repaired consumer electronics for 20 years and only saw a handful of dead picture tubes that had no visible indication of why they didn't work.

[cowboygames]

Ok, didn't realize you'd sent the chassis and monitor both to them. Odds are on a bad CRT if you've tried every other combination and that tube is the only thing not working. If you've got a TV repair shop close you might take them the tube and see if they'll put it on their rejuvinator to see if they can do something with it. It might just be a carbon short on the guns in the neck of the tube keeping it from lighting up.

[mwade109]

I will see if the local tv guy can do it,  the only other thing I didn't check it the copper coil/yoke.  Is there anyway to check these that you know of?

Ok, didn't realize you'd sent the chassis and monitor both to them. Odds are on a bad CRT if you've tried every other combination and that tube is the only thing not working. If you've got a TV repair shop close you might take them the tube and see if they'll put it on their rejuvinator to see if they can do something with it. It might just be a carbon short on the guns in the neck of the tube keeping it from lighting up.

[cowboygames]

I'm not positive, but I would think you could check the horiz side to the vert side for a short. Wish I had one handy to try that. If you had a bad yoke though, it would of killed your good chassis when you swapped it in for a test