WMS 360 slant top candle connector wiring

[stayouttadabunker]

I'd thought I'd put this up as a reference to anyone wanting to know how a WMS candle is wired.
Full credit must be given to Blueridgeslots for his excellent poking around!>>>

Blue wire (# 1 next to point)  is common for both bulbs
White/Purple (# 2) is Top Bulb (Change Buttton)
# 3 not used for candle
White/Green (# 4) is for bottom light (Flasher when door open)
Bulbs are 1888 a 7 volt bulb, but the voltages go through the board and the meter shows different readings as the blue is not a ground, the connector is a MX series with a 16 on it (Female end)

with the blue as the + (common) no load (candle unplugged)
# 2 is 5.3 volts (this is with the circuit working as the flasher and bulb would be flashing if connected
# 3 is 6 volts
# 4 is 7 volts

the candle is not grounded to cabinet on the bulb holders

[knagl]

Where does the nickel get connected?   

In all seriousness, thanks for the post - I'm sure it'll be useful for someone in the future.   

[cfh]

This is the exact same wiring used in model 40x
williams slots too. The candles are interchangable.

Actually you can/should use #44 or #47 bulbs for
the candle. Williams slots use a "lamp matrix" circuit,
where 18 volts DC is fed to the I/O board. It is then
"duty cycled" down to 6.3 volts DC as the lamps
are strobed through the lamp matrix. This is done
thru TIP102 and TIP107 transistors (for the column and rows).

This is the same circuit used in Williams pinballs.
On Wms slots, there is a 8x8 lamp matrix of
8 rows and 8 columns. This is how they support
things like the infinity lighting on Winning Streak,
and is why there's a lamp matrix plug behind
the top glass in every model 40x slot.

The only disadvantage to this system is if the
program "crashes", or a TIP transistor shorts.
This will put 18 volts straight thru to the lamps.
If the fuse doesn't blow (usually does not), and
before the bulbs die, the plastic lamp button housings
can MELT, or burn the traces off the backplane board.
Unfortunately the Wms Gaming division didn't use a
"blanking signal" technology to monitor this (like
they do on pinballs).

I heard several stories of when they were programming
Wms slots, that they would sometimes have to change
out melted front door buttons because of program
crashes. But i've seen that "in the wild" too (shorted TIP
transistor). I have also seen the traces on the backplane
board burn right off because of this problem.

[blueridgeslots]

The IGT's SUCK in comparison to the WMS Reels as far as being less complex though, never had to do an I/O repair on a S+, but then again no bells and whistles is no fun

[stayouttadabunker]

cfh,
What are the voltages coming out of a WMS 360 power supply?
I'm needing 25Vdc to make a special topper ballast to work.
In fact, the ballast is a IGT 195 076 90 made by Transpower (TT18000)
The model is a Model EB15DC 25A for a 12" F15T8 flourescent tube.
The ballast requires 25VDC.
Would a WMS 360 power supply have enough juice somewhere to make this ballast work?

Click on "ballast.jpg" link to enlarge photo

[knagl]

FWIW, I've been using 24 VDC "wall wart" transformers to power those ballasts in my toppers -- as long as the transformer is rated for at least 0.62a, it should drive it.

[stayouttadabunker]

Thanks Knagl,
I'm gonna have to shop around more...everybody around here has 24VAC...wrong ones
Does a WMS 360 have a 25Vdc output anywhere from it's power supply?
This topper will be mounted to a WMS 360 slant top....

ADD>>>not mine by the way, I only have S+'s.

[blueridgeslots]

24 volt will power the ballast, the new IGT just use 25 volt, you won't have a problem, or you can change out that ballast and put a generic tube set up in there from Home Depot or something, but like Kevin said, a cheap ac adapter will do the trick

[cfh]

The Williams power supply puts out unregulated 20 volts DC
(this is used for the lamp matrix). But no they don't put
out 24 or 25 volts. personally i would go with a plug-in
transformer as mentioned above. just put it into one of
the line outlets right on the power supply (they are switched
outlets).

[stayouttadabunker]

Thanks guys...I'll go with the regular wall transformer for this project...wait till you see what it is...it's a beautiful topper!
(Not mine, I'm restoring it for one of our newest members)
It's a replica of the "Welcome to Fabulous Las Vegas Nevada" sign all decked out with LEDs.

The only problem is that the electronics inside had water damage like it was down in those wiped out flooded Katrina casinos.
Chip legs were rusted and others chips looked like they were about to explode.
The board inside was running the light chasers...I had to ditch the 3001 star board (Made from Vegas Neon in 1991) and go with xmas LEDs.
At least with the xmas LEDs, I get more choices as to how it will flash...
There were also several board soldered burnt LEDs I replaced but couldnt do get it to flash properly until I disassembled the star and saw the damage to the star board's electronics.

[Slotmaster]

The Williams power supply puts out unregulated 20 volts DC
(this is used for the lamp matrix). But no they don't put
out 24 or 25 volts. personally i would go with a plug-in
transformer as mentioned above. just put it into one of
the line outlets right on the power supply (they are switched
outlets).

On the WMS to note you can go as low as 12V as a replacement for the 18V that it was originally designed as.   The lower the volts the dimmer the lights will be but if your original power supply is missing you can get away with pumping 12V into it from a computer supply.

Basically you eliminate the bulky transformer from the machine.   

I have found this handy switching power supply to allow for me to get any replacement voltage needed quickly.   This will work for the light too. 

"COMPACT SWITCHING POWER SUPPLY 36W WITH SELECTABLE OUTPUT, 5-24VDC OUT
Model # PSSMV7U"

# supply voltage: 100 ~ 240V AC (US PLUG)
# power: 36W
# efficiency: >= 70%
# 20 selectable outputs: 5 to 24V DC in steps of 1V (from 4.3 to 1.5A)
# output plugs: 2.5mm mono, 3.5mm mono, 1.0x3.0mm, 1.35x3.5mm, 1.7x4.0mm, 2.1x5.0mm, 2.5x5.5mm, 1.5x5.5mm
# dimensions: 3.5" x 1.8" x 1.2"

[jay]

Looks like a flexiable unit.
Do you have a link and/or a price.....

[Slotmaster]

http://www.allspectrum.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=64&products_id=1306&osCsid=194b8b82425fc62343d006760573361d&sdesc=COMPACT+SWITCHING+POWER+SUPPLY+36W+WITH+SELECTABLE+OUTPUT%2C+5-24VDC+OUT+Model+%23+PSSMV7U

Here is one place for $35

I have seen it for less

[stayouttadabunker]

good stuff guys, thanks a bunch for your help!
I will click on kudos+ for ya's every day till I die

[knagl]

On the WMS to note you can go as low as 12V as a replacement for the 18V that it was originally designed as.   The lower the volts the dimmer the lights will be but if your original power supply is missing you can get away with pumping 12V into it from a computer supply.

Does that apply to a flourescent light as well?  I'd be a little scared to vastly under-power a flourescent ballast.  LEDs, on the other hand, no problem...

[Slotmaster]

Correct, I was talking about button lights and what not, for the top and bottom bulbs I would not go under what the bulb calls for.