FINALLY! Step-by-step HOWTO make PE+ on-screen progressive

[4 Deuces]

Here are my step-by-step instructions for absolute beginners like me (although  I think I've graduated to "Amateur Slot Enthusiast" or "ASE" - hey, that's pronounced ACE!).

This will be a multi-part post.  Hope you find these instructions helpful!

4000 credits and Karma to Jay, Stayouttadabunker, Knaql, Foster, and Captain Happy for their help, expertise and cheers!

And bonus credits to all the other contributors from posts that I learned from.

Overview of how a progressive works

Basically, your PE+ can’t control a progressive jackpot by itself.  It needs another board to keep track of the progressive jackpot.  This is called a Controller and essentially “controlsâ€� the jackpot by keeping track of all the coins going in and incrementing the jackpot.  How quickly the jackpot grows depends on how you configure the Controller.  You configure the Controller using software.  So, these step-by-step instructions are going to show you how to add a Controller to your PE+ in order to add a progressive jackpot.

Summary of Steps

• Step 1 - plan what you want (on-screen, external meter or both)
• Step 2 - get the parts (hardware, software, cables, power, manuals, etc.)
• Step 3 - put it all together

[4 Deuces]

Step 1 - plan what you want (on-screen, external meter or both)

This topic is specifically for displaying a single progressive jackpot amount on the screen for an upright video poker IGT PE+ machine.  It's possible that these steps would be very similar for slant top, S+ and other IGT machines.  For this example, I am using a 5-game video poker machine (Jacks or Better, Bonus Poker, Deuces Wild, Bonus Poker Deluxe, and Double Bonus).  All five games share the same single progressive jackpot.

To display the progressive jackpot on an external meter, you'll have to read another topic.  I don't know how to do that, but there is some great advice on this site!    

Plan for space, not only for working on this project for more than a week, but within or near your slot machine as well.  You’re going to be hooking up a new circuit board in the slot machine if there’s room or outside the slot machine, so you’ll need space in and around the machine.  You’re also looking at an additional plug or two depending on your configuration, so you’ll need appropriate power outlets (surge protector is always recommended).

Overall, I spent about $100 in parts and 40 hours over 3 weeks in my first attempt to get this working, so plan for the costs, time and patience (beer helps too!).  This should be a fun project, regardless of the outcome, right?
 

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Step 2 - get the parts (hardware, software, cables, power, etc.)

Parts # 1 - Controller board (and optional Gateway)

First of all, you need a Controller board.  A Controller is a circuit board that "controls" the progressive amount by incrementing the amount every time a coin (or bill, token, etc.) is inserted into the machine.  Using software on your computer, you set an incremental value so you can control how fast the jackpot rises (e.g., rise $0.01 for every $1.00 in).

[EDIT - correcting CON1 definitions]
There are a few Controllers you can use to achieve a progressive jackpot on the screen.  The less expensive approach is to buy a cheaper Controller called a CON1 from Mikohn that ranges anywhere from $15-$60 (depending on age, condition and casing).  Buying the cheaper Controller means you also have to buy another board called a Gateway (also about $15-$60) to display the amount on the screen.  The Gateway is another circuit board that translates the message from the CON1 to a format that is compatible with IGT’s on-screen display.  I personally used a CON1f with a Gateway v2.2.

Or, you can spend more money and buy only one Controller called a Mikohn CON2i that is capable of displaying the progressive jackpot back to the screen without the need of an additional Gateway board.

There are 4 types of a CON1:  CON1, CON1i, CON1f, and CON1s
i = a Gateway is required
f = fiber optic capabilities
s = stand-alone model

There are 4 types of a CON2: Type A, Type AF, Type I and Type IF.
According to other posts, only a CON2i will work with IGT.
[end EDIT]


All take a 12V power supply.  It’s best when they’re included with the boards, but if not, you can pick one up at your local Radio Shack or Walmart.  You just need to make sure the plugs fit in the power slot.  Personally, I found several 12V AC adaptors in my home that were not being used that happen to fit, so I used those.

NOTE: These are circuit boards, so take precautionary care to avoid static electricity.   

Where to buy a Contoller and Gateway and 12V power supplies:

NewLifeGames Classifieds - post a "want to buy (WTB)" at http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?board=108.0

eBay - search for "CON1", "CON2i", "Mikohn + Gateway", etc.

Rudy's Deals at http://rudysdeals.com/

Other sites listed at the home page of NewLifeGames.net

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Parts # 2 - PSP Software

Now that you have a Controller, you’ll need to program it with your computer using software called, Progressive System Programmer (PSP) software version 2.0 by Mikohn P.N. 950-051-00 .  You will also need a cable to connect from your Controller to your computer plus a manual on how to setup.  The cable and manual are described in Step 2, Parts # 3 and Parts # 4.  I cover some of the software setup in Step 3.

This is old MS-DOS based software that runs in a MS-DOS command prompt Window and uses a RS-232 DB-9 connection on the back of your PC.  Therefore, you’re going to want a PC that can run MS-DOS based programs (preferably an older PC you have around).  Also, make sure on the back of the PC you have a DB-9 input line.  It looks like a VGA monitor plug (not DVI or HDMI) except it only has 9 pins in it.  The cable has to be modified (spliced), which is covered in Step 2, Parts # 4.

Where to buy PSP v2.0 Software by Mikohn:

You can try NewLifeGames User Request Boards at http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?board=12.0

Google searches for PSP typically return Sony Playstation, so searching “950-051-00� or “Mikohn Progressive System Programmer 2.0� may be more effective.

Other sites listed at the home page of NewLifeGames.net

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Parts # 3 - Manuals

This project is nearly impossible without manuals or you’ll be posting a lot of questions. Although I’ll cover the necessary configuration needed for an upright IGT PE+, I would recommend the following:

• CON1 Progressive Jackpot System P.N. 990-000-00 (if you bought a CON1)
• CON2 P.N. 990-010-00 (if you bought a CON2i)
• Progressive System Programmer Software (PSP) Version 2.0 Technical Manual P.N. 950-051-00
• Mikohn Technician’s Pocket Guide P.N. 990-241-39/REVB

A couple of optional manuals that are good to have are:

• Player’s Edge Plus (PE+) Motherboard Assembly Diagram
• Player’s Edge Plus (PE+) Motherboard Schematic Diagram

Where to buy manuals:

You can try NewLifeGames User Request Boards at http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?board=12.0

NewLifeGames Classifieds - post a "want to buy (WTB)" at http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?board=108.0

eBay - search for "CON1 manual", "CON2i manual", etc.

Rudy's Deals at http://rudysdeals.com/

Other sites listed at the home page of NewLifeGames.net

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Parts # 4 - Cables, wires, connectors and power supplies

12V Power Supplies
As mentioned earlier, you need 12V power supplies that fit into the power input slots on the boards.  You can find these at Radio Shack, Walmart, or other stores that sell AC adaptors.  You can also buy online, but you need to ensure a right fit, so taking your boards somewhere locally will ensure a proper fit.  Remember to take precautionary steps to avoid static electrical charges to your boards when travelling with them.  Personally, I used two AC power adaptors I found around the home that weren’t being used and happen to fit.

RS-232 DB-9 modified cable
This cable will be used to connect the Controller to your PC.  This cable does not exists as-is.  You have to take a RS-232 cable and modify it.  Thus far, you’ve just been collecting parts off the Internet and local stores– easy, typical stuff.  Now, you’re going to have to use your hands and some tools with some patience.  I would suggest putting the dog outside, locking the cat in another room with a comfy blanket, and sending the spouse and kids to a movie.  And of course, don’t forget the beer!   

The easiest method for making the cable is to buy a cheap RS-232 straight-through cable ($6 online), cut it in half, and then splice the wires in the proper order.  To do this, you’re going to need a voltage meter in order to determine what color wires match to what pin at each end of the cable.  Personally, this is the route I took.  A voltage meter is $20 at Radio Shack.

Another method is to buy two ends of a DB-9 cable (male and female) and then solder 4 wires to it.  This would require a solder tool and some wire (perhaps an old CAT5 cable or other similar cable you have around that can destroy).  You could try crimping the wires onto the end instead of soldering (good luck with that).   

The best instructions I’ve ever found were on NewLifeGames.net.  Here is the topic of “Creating a modified RS232 DB9 cable for Mikohn to PC for use with PSP softwareâ€� …
http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=106.0

And here is the attached PDF within the topic …
http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=106.0;attach=131

Wires, connectors and harnesses
If you think making the modified RS-232 cable was hard, then brace yourself and get another beer!   

What you need now are wires that go from the Controller to the Gateway and to the Motherboard in the slot machine.  The wires are connected with plastic plug-in “connectorsâ€�.  When you have wires and connectors, you have what’s called a “harnessâ€�.  It’s unlikely that a harness exists for your exact configuration.  Therefore, you’ll most likely have to make your own harness.

I’m including a picture of the harness I made because in retrospect, they’re not that bad.  I took an old cable that happen to have 4 wires in it and used it as my wires.  Then, I went to Keisub (a local store that sells all kinds of connectors).  I took the boards with me and the salesperson was able to get each connectors for me.  Then, I connected the wires to the connectors using needle-nose pliers to crimp and tiny screwdrivers to jam the terminals into the plastic housings.  I’m sure these are NOT the right tools and could damage both the wires and connectors (as I went through many of them), but they did the job for me.  With enough beer, you won’t even feel the puncture wounds of jamming a tiny screwdriver through your finger.  You will, however, have to stop the bleeding before making a mess.  Seriously, I jammed the screwdriver into my fingers and hand 4 times.  See why you need to be in the house alone?  Maybe beer isn’t a good thing?   

For a CON1f to a Gateway, I needed the following Housing and Terminals:
KK-150 series .156� Housing 09-50-7021 with Terminals 08-50-1016
.100 KK Housings & Terminals 4 Circular (2.54mm)
.062� series 4 circular Connectors with receptors and plugs

To know what you need for your configuration, see Step 3 for a wiring diagram.  Depending on the location where you’re going to install your boards, you’ll need to plan for a long enough wire.  So, before attempting your wiring acts, I would recommend reading through step 3.  Specifically, carefully look over the wiring diagram again and again to visualize what you need to build.

Personally, because software is easy for me, I found software to be the easiest step.  Hardware, however, is not my thing.  So I found making the harness the most difficult step for me.  Depending on your comfort level, you may find making a harness easy and the programming more difficult.  Either way, good luck and have fun!

Where to buy cables, wires, harnesses and power supplies:

NewLifeGames Classifieds - post a "want to buy (WTB)" at http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?board=108.0

eBay - search for "RS-232", "DB-9", etc.

Other sites listed at the home page of NewLifeGames.net

Radio Shack or other local stores that sell circuitry parts

[4 Deuces]

Step 3 - put it all together

Now that your fingers are all bandaged up, you’re ready to start putting it all together.  This is the fun part!  You’ll want to sober up a bit for this because you’ve got to pay attention and get this right.

Assembly Step 1 - install the PSP software

1)   The installation is simply an unzip of the files onto your local C: drive.  The default path is C:\PSP.
2)   Right-click on PSP.exe and choose Properties.
3)   Under the Compatibility tab, in the Compatibility group, check “Run this program in compatibility mode for:â€� option and select, “Windows 95â€�.
4)   Clock OK to save your settings.
5)   Go to Device Manager.  If you’re not sure how, check out http://www.computerhope.com/issues/ch000833.htm.
6)   Under Ports (COM & LPT), make sure you have a Communications Port (COM1).  If not, then manually add one.  The software will communicate over this port to the Controller.

[4 Deuces]

Assembly Step 2 - program the Controller with the software

1)   Turn on your PC.
2)   Using your modified RS-232/DB-9 cable from Step 2, Parts # 4, plug the male side of the cable into the Controller in the plug labeled, Chameleon Programming (not Joystick).
3)   Plug the female side of the cable into the DB-9 slot in the back of your PC.
4)   Plug in the power to your Controller.

For these next few steps, you’re going to use the function keys on your keyboard.  Don’t panic if you hit the wrong key.  You can find your way back by using other functions keys or the ESC key.

5)   Launch PSP.exe in a MS-DOS Window.
6)   Using the arrow keys on the keyboard, select either “CON1â€� or “CON2â€� and press Enter on the keyboard.
7)   Type in password 135642 and then press F10 on the keyboard.  If you accidentally typed in the password incorrectly, just press Enter on the keyboard and type it in again.
8)   Press the ESC] key for “MAIN MENUâ€�.
9)   Press the F1 key for “Default PATHâ€�.
10)   Press the F3 key for “SNGLâ€� (single) jackpot.  NOTE: To setup different types of jackpots, refer to the Mikohn Progressive System Programmer Software version 2.0 manual.
11)   Press the F4 key for “M00â€� Machine Type.  NOTE: This might be different for your machine.  Refer to the Mikohn Technician’s Pocket Guide manual for Machine Types.
12)   Press the F6 key for “JP0â€� to enable the first jackpot.  NOTE: To setup multiple jackpots, refer to the Mikohn Progressive System Programmer Software version 2.0 manual.
13)   Press the F7 key to choose whether you want to display the jackpot amount in credits (COIN) or currency ($$$$).
14)   Press the F8 key for “NOFLâ€� (no flash to LED displays).  NOTE: To setup external meters and displays, refer to the Mikohn Technician’s Pocket Guide manual.
15)   Press the 1 key (not F1) for “Jackpot Programmingâ€�.
16)   In the BASE VALUE field, use the arrow keys and number keys on the keyboard to enter the starting jackpot amount.  For example, a starting jackpot of $1,000.00 would be entered as “00,001,00.00â€�.
17)   In the INCREMENT 1 field, enter the Format Calculation for either Coin or Currency, depending on what you chose in Assembly Step 2-13. 

For currency, the formula is Denomination X Progressive Rate.  For example, to progress 1% for a 25 cent machine, set the Progressive Rate to 1%.  1% X $0.25 = 0.0025.  Therefore, your INCREMENT 1 is “00.002 500 00â€�.

For credits, the formula is simply the progressive rate.  For 1% on a 25 cent machine, the INCREMENT 1 would be “00.000 500 00â€�.

Confused?   Me too!  For an easy cheat sheet table of combinations, refer to the Mikohn Technician’s Pocket Guide manual.

18)   Press the F1 key to “SENDâ€� the configuration settings to the Controller.
19)   Press the F10 key to “EXITâ€� the program.
20)   Press the ESC key to “Exit without file saveâ€�.
21)   Disconnect the power from the Controller.
22)   Disconnect the RS-232/DB-9 cable.

Your controller is now configured!

[4 Deuces]

Assembly Step 3 - connect the Controller and optional Gateway

In this step, you’re going to prepare the Controller (and optional Gateway) for the slot machine’s Motherboard by connecting the appropriate wires and connectors (harnesses).

NOTE: Make sure the Controller (and Gateway) is not powered up at this time.

CON1 with optional Gateway

As mentioned earlier, with a CON1, the slot machine cannot recognize the jackpot meter signal.  Therefore, you need a Gateway to translate that signal into something the slot machine can recognize and display on the screen.  The Gateway has two rotary switches that define what signal is coming in (the Mikohn CON1) and what signal is going out (IGT PE+).

1)   On the Gateway, set rotary SW1=0 (Mikohn) and rotary SW2=5 (IGT JP0 No Cycling).  These switches tell the Gateway how to translate the messages from the Controller to the slot machine’s Motherboard.  SW1 is for the Input from the Controller and SW2 is for the Output to the slot machine.  NOTE: This may be different for your machine.  Refer to the “Gateway Interface Boards and Softwareâ€� section of the Mikohn Technician’s Pocket Guide manual.
2)   On the CON1 J3 “Display Outputâ€� 8-pin slot, connect your two-pin plug onto pins 1 (+) and 2 (-).
3)   On the CON1 J3 “Display Outputâ€� 8-pin slot, now connect the other end of your two-pin plug to the Gateway “Mikohn IGT Inputâ€� pins 1 (+) and 2 (-).
4)   On the Gateway “Mikohn IGT Outputâ€�, connect pins 1 (+) and 2 (-) with your two-pin plug.  The other end of this plug will go to the Motherboard.
5)   On the CON1 J1 “Input Connectorâ€� 18-pin slot, connect your four-pin plug onto pins 16 (+ for Machine 16) and 18 (- for common ground from each coin-in pulse).  Although you have a 4-pin plug, you’re only using 2 pins that are 1 pin apart from each other.  So, the 4-pin plug starts at pin 15 and ends at pin 18, but only 16 and 18 are connected.  The other end of this plug will go to the Motherboard.

Your CON1 Controller is now connected to your Gateway and both are ready to be connected to your Motherboard.

CON2i

1)   On the CON2i J1 “Machine Connect Selectorâ€� 20-pin slot, connect your 10-pin plug onto pin 9 (+ for Machine 1) and pin 1 (- for common ground).  Alternatively, you could use two separate 2-pin plugs that have only one pin connected to each and plug them into pins 9-10 and 1-2 on J1 so long as pins 9 and 1 are connected.
2)   On the CON2i J3 “IGTâ€� slot, connect pin 1 only (Serial Return).  You can use a two-plug connection, but only connect pin 1.

Your CON2i Controller is now ready to be connected to your Motherboard.

[4 Deuces]

Assembly Step 4 - connect the Controller and optional Gateway to Motherboard

Getting closer!  Let’s turn off the power to the video poker machine and open it up.

• Find a location in the machine that will comfortably house your Controller and optional Gateway.
• Make sure you have enough room for ventilation and protection of the boards.
• You also need enough room for power supplies and an available power outlet for the power supplies.
• If connecting outside of your machine, find a good, safe, static-free spot.  If you have a stand, inside the stand is another potential location.

REMEMBER: Take precaution to avoid static electrical shocks to these sensitive boards!

MPU dip switches

First, you have to tell the IGT PE+ game that you’re going to enable a progressive jackpot.

1)   Remove the MPU, which is the board that slides into the Motherboard.
2)   Locate the set of 8 dip switches and turn switches 5 and 8 to “ON” using a tiny screwdriver (or tweezers, etc).
3)   Slide the MPU back in.

CON1 with optional Gateway

1)   On the CON1 Controller J1 (Input Connector) 18-pin slot , take your two-pin plug that’s coming from J1 and is connected to a 4-pin plug on the other end and plug it into J15 on the Motherboard with CON1 J1 pin 16 to Motherboard J15 pin 2 (PROG IN) and the CON1 J1 pin 18 to Motherboard J15 pin 4 (PROG OUT).
2)   On the Gateway “IGT Output” 2-pin slot, take your two-pin plug that’s coming from “IGT Output” and is connected to the same 4-pin plug on the other end and plug it into J15 on the Motherboard with Gateway “IGT Output” pin 1 to Motherboard J15 pin 3 (PROG RET) and the Gateway “IGT Output” pin 2 to Motherboard J15 pin 2 (PROG IN).
3)   Plug in the power supply to the CON1.  You should see all lights pulsating desperately trying to communicate to something (kind of like how a router will blink even though the computer is off).  If you don’t, unplug the power and go back and check all your connections and power before proceeding.

CON2i

1)   On the CON2i Controller J1 (Machine Connect Selector) 20-pin slot , take your two-pin or 10-pin plug that’s coming from J1 and is connected to a 4-pin plug on the other end and plug it into J15 on the Motherboard with CON2i J1 pin 9 to Motherboard J15 pin 2 (PROG IN) and the CON2i J1 pin 1 to Motherboard J15 pin 4 (PROG OUT).
2)   On the CON2i Controller J3 “IGT” 8-pin slot, take your two-pin plug that’s coming from J3 with only 1 pin and is connected to the same 4-pin plug and plug it into J15 on the Motherboard with CON2i J3 pin 1 to Motherboard J15 pin 3 (PROG RET).
3)   Plug in the power supply to the CON1.  You should see all lights pulsating desperately trying to communicate to something (kind of like how a router will blink even though the computer is off).  If you don’t, unplug the power and go back and check all your connections and power before proceeding.

If all went well, your connections should look like the diagram below [EDIT: Diagram below]

[4 Deuces]

Assembly Step 5 - configure the slot machine for progressive jackpots

Almost done!  This is the easiest part of all!

1)   Make sure your Controller and optional Gateway are powered up and securely connected to your machine.
2)   Turn on the machine.
3)   You’re going to need to have zero credits on the machine, so you will have to play off the credits before you can start the configuration.  That’s okay, I’ll wait.
4)   With zero credits, press the white test button until you come to the Progressive menu.
5)   Set the Royal Flush Progressive to “1â€� using the Hold 1 button.  For multi-poker, you will have to set the Royal Flush Progressive to “1â€� for all five games using Hold buttons 1 – 5.
6)   Press the white test button until you reach the end of the menus to set the machine back to game.  NOTE: You do not need to create any settings for WAN or Communication Type.
7)   Close the door and say a prayer.

 

That’s it!  You should now see a currency or coin-based progressive instead of the 4000 credits or “Jackpot 1â€� displayed.  As you drop coins (tokens, bills, etc.), the progressive should start to rise.  How fast it rises will depend on the INCREMENT 1 value you set in the software configuration.  Therefore, you might have to play a little bit before you see it rise.

Troubleshooting tips will be the next post ...

[4 Deuces]

Troubleshooting

1)   SYMPTOM: Progressive amount is changing erratically up and down.

POSSIBLE CAUSE/SOLUTION: The Controller is getting feedback due to faulty wiring.  Turn off the power immediately to avoid damage to the Controller or Motherboard.  Recheck all of your wiring.  For me, this was caused because I had the wires backwards on the Controller J1 slot.  The Motherboard J15 pin 2 (PROG IN) goes to pin 18 for CON1 and pin 1 for CON2i.  The Motherboard J15 pin 4 (PROG OUT) goes to pin 16 on Controller J1 for CON1 and pin 9 on Controller J1 for CON2i.

2)   SYMPTOM: Progressive amount displays “Jackpot” instead of a value.

POSSIBLE CAUSE/SOLUTION: The Gateway or CON2i is not reporting the amount back to the Motherboard due to faulty wiring.  Recheck your connections.  J3 on CON1 and CON2i are the Display Outputs.  CON1 uses both pins 1 & 2 and CON2i only uses pin 1.  CON1 goes to Gateway Input and CON2i goes directly to the Motherboard J15 pin 3 (PROG RET).  Gateway Output pin 1 goes to Motherboard J15 pin 3 (PROG RET) and Gateway Output pin 2 goes to Motherboard J15 pin 2 (PROG IN).

3)   SYMPTOM: Progressive amount displays, but does not increment.

POSSIBLE CAUSE/SOLUTION: The coin-in pulse is not reaching the Controller.  Recheck your wiring.  The Motherboard J15 pin 4 (PROG OUT) goes to CON1 J1 pin 18 and CON2i J1 pin 1.  The Motherboard J15 pin 2 (PROG IN) goes to CON1 J1 pin 16 and CON2i J1 pin 9.

4)   SYMPTOM: Smoke is coming from the machine.

POSSIBLE CAUSE/SOLUTION: Jumpin’ jackpot! What have you done?!


Good luck and have fun!

[Pictures and video will be uploaded later, hopefully today]

[CaptainHappy]

Vegas Local,
  for such a great effort in documenting and sharing!

I stickied the topic.

CaptainHappy

[Neonkiss]

GREAT INFORMATION... 

K+ FROM ME FOR THE DOCUMENTATION.

Please post some pictures of the on-screen progressive. I would love to see it.


 

[4 Deuces]

Just got back from checking out the Chinese New Year decorations at the Venetian!  Awesome!  Smokin' dragon with laser lights.

Okay, to save room on this forum, I will link to pictures I've already taken and only include a picture of the progressive, plus a link to a video.

Motherboard and MPU - http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=16830.msg142582#msg142582

CON1f and Gateway - http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=16830.msg142584#msg142584

Video - <a href="http://www.youtube.com/v/TUJl3SGLc5E&rel=0" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/v/TUJl3SGLc5E&rel=0</a>

I will work on an updated wiring diagram.

[4 Deuces]

As promised ... PE+ Progressive Wiring Diagram

[knagl]

Dave-

Wow, this is fantastic!!!   

I will remember to click the K+ button as often as I can for you. Thanks for taking the time to create this.

(For clarification, does the Mikohn stuff require 12vdc or 12vac?)

[4 Deuces]

I sure hope it's VDC because that's what I'm using.  Nothing blew up, so I sure hope it's right and that I got really, really lucky.

The only mention in the CON1 manual is ...

Displays and controllers must be connect to a clean AC power source. ...
Mikohn equipment is available in both 110 and 220 Volt configurations.

[knagl]

I would assume DC, too, but it wasn't clear what output your AC adapters were providing from your posts.  I think you just confirmed that DC is correct, though. 

Thanks again for posting all of this -- I'm sure it took some time, and it's great!

[CaptainHappy]

Dave-

Wow, this is fantastic!!!   

I will remember to click the K+ button as often as I can for you. Thanks for taking the time to create this.

(For clarification, does the Mikohn stuff require 12vdc or 12vac?)

Kevin,

I gave him another  in your honor!

CH

[jay]

The Con1 and Gateway require a min voltage of 9v DC and I believe can handle up to 24V DC. Both units are fused.
I also run mine off of 12v DC.

[4 Deuces]

Couple of follow-up TIPS that are good for beginners like me ...

1)  How to reset jackpot and progressive amount at the same time (without having to hookup software again).

2)  How to calculate INCREMENT settings (Dave's easy method).


JACKPOT RESET

Don't just turn the key!  Otherwise, the machine might interpret the key-turn as a "coin-in".  This will result in the music being stopped, but the progressive amount will not reset back to zero.  You actually have to TURN AND HOLD the key for about 5 seconds.  This should not only reset the jackpot, but set the progressive back to the starting amount as well.  If you did turn it too fast, you'll have to use the PSP Software again to reset the jackpot.  I got my first Royal and didn't reset it properly.


INCREMENT CALCULATIONS (Dave's easy method)

If you're like me, I don't think of calculating the increments in terms of percentages (e.g., 1 and 1/3 percent of 1 cent).  Instead, I'd rather just say ... for every 5 coins in, how much do I want the jackpot to grow?

Here's Dave's Easy formula ...

Amount jackpot should grow in currency divided by # of coins in

Few examples ...

$1 denomination and for every dollar in, you want the jackpot to grow 1 penny.  That means, on a 5 coin dollar machine, the jackpot would grow 5 cents at max bet.
.01 cent / 1 coin = .01  (.01 is what you would enter as your increment rate.  This is also equal to 1% in the example in the book)
.05 cent / 5 coins = .01 (same as above because the two mean the same thing ... 1 cent for 1 coin, 5 cents for 5 coins)

.25 cent denomination and for every 5 coins in, you want the jackpot to grow 5 cents (same as dollar).
.05 cent / 5 coins = .01 increment rate (notice it's the same as dollars.  The difference is the percentage payout, but we don't care about that at home)

.25 cent denomination and for every 5 coins in, you want the jackpot to grow 1 penny.
.01 cent / 5 coins = .002 increment rate

.05 cent denomination and for every 20 coins in, you want the jackpot to grow 5 cents.
.05 cents / 20 coins = .0025 increment rate

If you are interested in finding out what percentage you're actually setting the increment for, you can use the formula in the book as follows:

INCREMENT = DENOMINATION * PERCENTAGE

... which converts to ...

PERCENTAGE = INCREMENT / DENOMINATION

Taking the 4 examples above ...

PERCENTAGE = .010 * $1.00 = 1% of dollar denom is 1 cent for every 1 coin
PERCENTAGE = .010 * $0.25 = 4% of quarter denom is 1 cent for every 1 coin
PERCENTAGE = .002 * $0.25 = 1/2 of 1% (.05) of quarter denom is 1 cent for every 5 coins
PERCENTAGE = .0025 * $0.05 = 1/8 of 1% (.0125) of nickel demon is 5 cents for every 20 nickels

Who cares?

[lonni]

my dears may somebody explain how to setup the progressive for the tv not for the LED lights
does any one has the conntact mail for the bally support

[jay]

If you are using a CON2 link controller or the ChamII+ these both have the data return line.
These will both put the jackpot amount on the PE+ monitor.
If you are using an older Con1 (this is what I have) this will require a Mikohn gateway to create the data return line to do the same thing.

With regards to your question about a TV screen. i am not sure if your referring to the PE+ monitor as the tv screen or an actual TV / flat panel display. As far as I know I have not seen any adapter to take the output of the Mikohn equipment to any kind of display adapter.

I have never had the time but I suspect the 2 wire line that is output from a con1 to the LED5 or LED4 display drivers is a RS485 signal and you could probably get a RS485 to USB adapter and if you could get the jackpot values then you could output from a PC to a flat panel. It would take a bit of custom coding.

If you are not a Casino tech no one from Bally is going to offer you any support at any price.

This is why NLG came into existence - you had hundreds of home slot owners and no support.

[stayouttadabunker]

Great thread 4 Deuces!! 
I thoroughly enjoyed reading every bit of it!
It's a lotta work to do what you did because of the learning involved but the end results are fantastic! 
Awessome job!!