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Author Topic: IGT draw poker door open call attendant  (Read 34973 times)
spanky6263
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« Reply #25 on: February 25, 2012, 12:48:57 PM »

Ok i have no idea what clear chip means. I adjusted this knob in the pic but still dont have any volume.  I dont understand the comment (With the door open verify that there are wires off of the key switch......
Turn the key switch with the door open.) Do you want me to disconnect the wires that are attached to the key switch and if so all of them or just one to break the circuit or did you mean to say verify there ar No wires off of the key switch?  
The only message that is displayed now is the call attendant. Unless you have the door open then you have door open call attendant eeprom data


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« Last Edit: February 25, 2012, 12:59:55 PM by spanky6263 » Logged
spanky6263
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« Reply #26 on: February 25, 2012, 12:57:41 PM »

here is the pic of the knob i beleive you wanted me to adjust. After pushing the white button ( and it doesnt matter how many times i do this) and then closing the door when i turn the jackpot key once the attached pic is displayed. It just sits there. If i turn the jackpot key a second time it then goes to verifying game memory please wait and the light on top goes steady then the message disappears for a second and the light flashes on top and then it comes right back and says the same thing(verifying game memory) and the light is back to steady for a few more seconds and then the message is gone and the call attendant message is displayed and the light is flashing on the top.  No sounds at any time while doing any of this.  Thanks for the help guys.


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« Reply #27 on: February 25, 2012, 02:55:54 PM »

Hi, I'm not one of the experts here, but I'll add my two cents on what I know.  And I've got to say that you've done an excellent job explaining and posting pictures.   Hail

From what I've read, you've done all the right things thus far.  The fact that the message is still not going away after pressing/holding the white reset, closing the door and turning the key, then opening the door again and pressing the white test button just briefly ... this is the normal steps.

I'm wondering now if perhaps you're seeing a hard tilt as a result of one of the settings.  Again, I'm not the expert, but while we're waiting for the Dr.'s, you could try this ...

  • Turn on the machine, open the door and press the white test button.  A menu should appear.
  • Each press of the white test button should display another menu. 
  • The first and second menus are typically the input/output tests so you can check all the buttons, switches, comparitor, hopper, etc.
  • Subsequent screens are for changing settings.
  • One screen will refer to tilt errors.  Make sure all of them are off or "soft", meaning, the machine should not stop for any error.
  • Continue pressing the white test button until you reach the end of the menus and ... if you're lucky, the call attendant message might disappear.

Hope that's helpful!  Hang in there!  You've got a nice machine.

Good luck!   wave
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« Reply #28 on: February 25, 2012, 03:01:30 PM »

I just re-read your last post.  I see you also have a EEPROM error with the door open.  That's worse.  You might actually need a clear chip.

A clear chip is a chip that you put in the game slot to reset all of the game data.  You basically pull the game chip, insert the reset chip, turn on the machine, press reset, turn off the machine, and put your game chip back.

For this kind of machine, I believe you need a PE-CLR chip to clear, which you can find on Ebay or probably get it cheaper by posting a WTB in the Classifieds section of this site.
« Last Edit: February 25, 2012, 04:18:07 PM by Vegas Local » Logged
spanky6263
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« Reply #29 on: February 25, 2012, 10:34:03 PM »

when i press the white reset button it does not allow me to cycle thu any menus. I remember it doing this early on when i started troubleshooting it but thought i did something else to get it to do that. when i press and release it nothing happens unless i turn the jackpot key twice as earlier mentioned and then it says verifying game memory and then goes back to call attendant.  ANy other ideas?  I cant find thie PE_CLR chip you are talking about on ebay is it called something else? what does it look like. Thanks
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« Reply #30 on: February 25, 2012, 11:32:12 PM »

If you're not getting menus and still getting the EPROM error, then I"d definitely consider the clear chip.  You can ask this Ebay seller if these chips will work for a PE (they work for PE+) ...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/IGT-PE-Players-edge-Clear-Ram-Bill-Validator-Set-Chip-/251004558466?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a71099c82#ht_500wt_1156

... or post a want-to-buy (WTB) on the Classifieds section of this site at ...

http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?board=108.0

When you get the chip, you're going to remove the game chip from the MPU (slot U67 I believe), put the clear chip in, put the MPU back in and turn on the machine.  Then, you turn the machine back off, remove the clear chip and reinsert the game chip.  The chips have an arrow on them to indicate the direction so the clear chip should go in the same direction as the game chip.  You really want to use a chip remover and not try to pry the chip out, especially with a screwdriver, or you could damage the MPU board and/or the chip.  Also, you want to take static precaution.

Good luck!

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« Reply #31 on: February 26, 2012, 11:47:28 AM »

Don't worry about the wires on your keyswitch. We know that's working properly since you can get to the statistical data screens.

The whole EEPROM DATA error message is pretty normal after a game change. In fact, the only thing not normal here is that you're not getting the "ding" after holding the self test button for five seconds. (You are holding the switch down for at least five seconds, right?)

(An aside, you can't get to the test screens that Vegas Local was referencing  when your machine is at the error screen that you're at - you have to get past the error to be able to get to the self test menus.)

Aside from the clear chip, all that's left is to make sure that your self test button is working. If you have a multi-meter, with the machine off remove the MPU board and test the leads of the switch for continuity when the button is pressed. If the switch is working, you likely need a clear chip.
« Last Edit: February 26, 2012, 11:54:19 AM by knagl » Logged

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spanky6263
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« Reply #32 on: February 26, 2012, 10:15:18 PM »

Yes i held it for 5 seconds and longer just to ensure.  Ok i will check the switch with a meter. Trying to find the clear chip.  I have found a set of like 12 do you recomend buying the entire set of chips or just finding the one . I only plan on having this machine as i do not expect to expand beyond that.  Thanks
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« Reply #33 on: February 26, 2012, 10:45:25 PM »

If that one pair of clear/denom will work for your PE, then I'd just stick with those. 
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spanky6263
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« Reply #34 on: February 26, 2012, 10:57:21 PM »

Ok here is the info on the switch.  Green is top, yellow is middle, yellow /purple is bottom. see pic.   I have continuity between green and yellow purple. Push the switch and continuity goes away. Green or yellow/purple to ground both show continuity.  Yellow to green no continuity. Push the switch and you get continuity. Yellow to yellow/purple nothing even if you push the switch.  I have no diagram so i cant tell if this is accurate, Obviously the switch is working or continuity wouldnt go away at certatin points.  Let me know if you think this is accurate.  I ordered the one set of chips should be here end of week so will know more next week unless somone thinks i should try something else.  Thanks for all the help.  


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« Last Edit: February 27, 2012, 10:11:09 AM by spanky6263 » Logged
spanky6263
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« Reply #35 on: March 04, 2012, 01:53:01 PM »

OK got the chip. Couple quick questions. I am assuming i swap the chip on the lower left part of the picture which says xmpg game with the chip i received to the right of the pic labeled pe-clr.  I also have to assume you just pry the chip up out of the board using a non metalic piece of some sort or should i head up to radio shack and look for a tool?  After swapping i will follow th previous post on what to do.


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« Reply #36 on: March 04, 2012, 02:05:46 PM »

DON'T PRY IT OUT!   no

Lots of jokes about using screwdrivers on the board.  Not only can it damage the chip, it can also damage the board. knockout

You should really invest in a cheap little chip remover.  Looks like a pair of large tweezers that grab the chips from each end.

And I'm sure you know to take precaution to avoid static.  That will also irrevocably damage the chip. lightning bolt

Yes, you have it right.  You use the clear chip in the game chip slot. yes

1)  Turn off power.
2)  Replace game chip (xmpg game) with clear chip (pe-clr).
3)  Put MPU back in and power up.  Screen should indicate that system is cleared.
4)  Turn off power and remove MPU.
5)  Replace clear chip with your game chip.
6)  Put MPU back in and power up.  Then, follow the old instructions you've been doing to clear the error, which is press/hold white reset, close door, turn key, repeat until all errors clear.

Can't remember from previous posts if you have a bill validator, but if you do, you'll then have to use your other chip (SET038) to reenable that the same way you used the clear chip.

Good luck! Clap
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spanky6263
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« Reply #37 on: March 04, 2012, 02:10:20 PM »

OK i will go get a tool.  I figured as much even though the guy that sold the chip said use a screw driver, i just hope he was accurate when he said this clr chip will work on my machine.  No bill validator so this should be all i need to do.  WIll let you know thanks for all the help.
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« Reply #38 on: March 04, 2012, 05:27:22 PM »

The slot tech forum is referred to as the brotherhood of the bent screwdriver.

Personally i am not a fan of the chip pullers.
I use a small metallic screwdriver aptly bent  to lift each chip.
The idea of a bent screwdriver is that is slides flat under the chip vs wedging the sharp tip into the pcb board when you lift.

The radioshack claw mech comes with a similar metallic tool that is made out of tin and is crap. bends under first use.
This is why bent screwdrivers work well.

Start on one end and lift a bit, repeat at the other end. Avoid lifting either end too much otherwise you bend the pins.

Regardless how  you get the chip out just make sure the new one goes in the same way.

Remember you will need a set chip later to activate the bill valudator.
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« Reply #39 on: March 04, 2012, 06:18:45 PM »

Quote
The slot tech forum is referred to as the brotherhood of the bent screwdriver.

I learn something new every single day on this site.  I'm going to have to try the bent screwdriver!  Very cool!  Me, too!   +1 (Karma, or whatever)
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spanky6263
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« Reply #40 on: March 04, 2012, 07:33:00 PM »

NO Joy.  OK got the tool instead of using a bent screw driver and changed the chip out,  When  powering up with the clr chip installed  i get a purple background and it says eeprom data failure then it pops up and says IGT clear eeprom press self test switch.  So i did.  it ends up coming back to the eeprom data failure.  I powered down and swapped the chip back out with the game chip.  Now this time when i powered up it said door open call attendant CMOS data.  I hit the reset button and got the ding youve been talking about closed the door turned the jackpot key twice and then it goes thru the verifying game memory twice and then just says call attendant.  I tried the reset procedure again but it didnt ding this time.  I swapped chips and did the same procedure twice.  Each time it dings once after the intial swap of chips but after that nothing. The CMOS data screen only appears once after swapping chips.  
 So in the end i have a blue screen and it says call attendant.  I cant seem to get into any test options.  I installed the clr chip with the half moon notch on the right just as the chip i removed had that in the same spot as i did not see any arrows as previous mentioned in the other posts.  So Silly Me! whats next.    
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« Reply #41 on: March 04, 2012, 09:33:24 PM »

Possible good news ... I think you're getting really close, but I'm going to have you repeat things that you might have already done.  Sorry!

You're right with the first ding only.  Once you get past the CMOS data issue, then you should ...

1)  Open the door back up.

2)  Press/hold the white Reset button.  You most likely will not hear a second ding.

3)  Close the door.  THIS STEP IS IMPORTANT.

4)  Turn the key.

These 4 steps must be taken in this order.  The door needs to be CLOSED after step 2 and then you turn the Jackpot Reset key.

Sometimes you have to do this several times, but it should clear the "Call Attendant" error.

Crossing fingers ...
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spanky6263
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« Reply #42 on: March 05, 2012, 12:31:38 AM »

when i power it up i have call attendant.  When i open the door i get the door open, call attendant  and the eeprom data.  The only time i dont get the eeprom data is the first time after i use the clr chip that is when it says cmos  and when i get done closing the door and turning the key it ends up with just a call atendant message.  The next time i open the door it will have the eeprom data message along with door open and call attendant.   Scratch Head.   
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« Reply #43 on: March 05, 2012, 12:47:23 AM »

Yikes!  Sounds like you have a bad EPROM chip.  I believe that's the one above the game chip.

Unfortunately, I'm out of my league on this one as I'm not a tech either.  Hopefully, one of the others on the board can help you out with this one.

Sorry I couldn't be of more help.
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« Reply #44 on: March 05, 2012, 07:09:50 PM »

I hit the reset button and got the ding youve been talking about closed the door turned the jackpot key twice...

Why did you turn the key twice?  I'm not saying that's causing your problems, but you're only supposed to turn it once after you've closed the door, after you got the "ding".

I'm wondering if your EEPROM (note, this is different from most of the EPROM chips -- note the extra "E") might be bad.  The EEPROM is soldered to the motherboard (the fixed board that is mounted on the floor of the machine, which the removable MPU board plugs in to).  If you're handy with a soldering iron you could replace it, or you could perhaps find someone else who can replace it for you, or buy a known working PE+ upright motherboard.
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spanky6263
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« Reply #45 on: March 05, 2012, 11:11:25 PM »

Why did you turn the key twice?  I'm not saying that's causing your problems, but you're only supposed to turn it once after you've closed the door, after you got the "ding".

Just so were all on the same page,  after i use the clr chip and then change it back to the game chip and power up i have a door open call attendant.  I then press the white reset button and hold it for at least 5 seconds. at about 3 seconds into it i get a  ding. I continue to hold till i hit 5 seconds. i then release the switch.  I then have  door open, call attendant, cmos data on the screen.  then i close the door and lower the latch on the side and then the door open message goes out.  All i have now is call attendant and cmos data.  I now turn the key one time.  The screen erases all the messages and a few seconds later i get call attendant.  At this point if i open the door i will get the call attendant door open and the eeprom message.  If i open the door and try to run the reset procedure i wil not get any ding and when i close the door and lower the latch it will not put out the door open message. If i turn the key once at this point the messages go out and the statistical screen comes up and i can read the meter settings but that is it. I then have to turn the key  a second time to get i to go beyond that screen and then it goes thru verifying game memory twice and ends up at  call attendant. 



When i put the clr chip in and turn it on i get the first pic.  When i hit the reset button i get the second pic .  DOnt know if thats what i should get with the clr chip or not. Just letting you guys know .


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knagl
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« Reply #46 on: March 06, 2012, 04:25:26 AM »

I've never had to use that, but I'd say it's a good gamble that "EEPROM data failure" isn't a message of success. I'm really leaning towards a bad EEPROM on the motherboard.
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spanky6263
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« Reply #47 on: March 06, 2012, 10:08:45 AM »

anyone have a picture of what this eeprom chip looks like?  I looked at the motherboard and dont see any ic chips.
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« Reply #48 on: March 06, 2012, 07:04:26 PM »

I think this is a slant top motherboard, but this is what you're looking for -- it's a tiny square non-socketed chip.

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spanky6263
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« Reply #49 on: March 06, 2012, 11:14:27 PM »

OK so i think i found it see pic. SO the next obvious question any idea where i get a replacement?


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