Universal Sterling Sevens

[SpectresShadow]

I have this Stirling Seven's that i have done a ram clear on and checked to make sure that the door switch was registering as closed and the optic was blocked. I am seeing a code 19 and 50, the bill acceptor does not work and I can only add credits using the service switch. Does playing a game with the service credits not clear the codes? Not entirely sure as to whether or not this is an ultra, but it looks like the Super Stars and Stripes that Uniman and TZtech were helping with. I had used that as the basis of my trouble shooting. Also, would appreciate anyone posting a link to a full code list for the ultras. Thanks to anyone who can help. Especially if the help comes today through monday.

[Jim]

I can't offer any help,  never worked on one, so I'll let someone else chime in. while you are waiting, you could go to Universal reels/video    in the  reels section of the forum.  there seems to be a wealth of information on Ultras.

Jim

[TZtech]

Hi and welcome to NLG

There is a good post here by our resident Universal Guru - Uniman
http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=239.0

Code 50 means that Your machine is not seeing door closed.

Ian

[SpectresShadow]

Thanks for the link TZ and site referral jim. I have printed out a list of the codes and the post that states that when I do a ram clear I should go from codes 13 and 50 to codes 19 and 51 and they will go away after playing a game. I have tried different door switches and everything else in uniman's post and I still get the code 50 and the door is closed all the way. I haven't found anything on the ultra's on the site yet jim but I will keep trying.

[jbshocks]

is it in fact an ultra series?   Can you post a picture to be sure.  A stuck 50 can be caused by the cherry switch or the optic switch in the lock.  In my ultras I put a piece of electrical tape across the opening of the optic switch.  You can also test the cherry switch by jumpering it if need be.  I would try tape in the optic switch first.   The picture is the optic to put tape in.  If the machine is not ultra it will be the same idea but I have no clue where the switch are.   

[uniman]

The error 50 needs to change to 51.
The machine wants to see the door CLOSED and LOCKED.
It sees the door closed with the white switch next to the yellow reset switch, upper right corner inside the door. There might be two white switches but only one should have wires connected. They would be a green and black wire. On the back of the white switch there are three contacts on the left and three on the right. Your wires should be connected to the two outside contacts of one of the three. SEE PIC. On mine it's the right side. Left side or right side doesn't matter, but they must be connected to the two outer contacts of the three leaving one bare contact in the middle. This makes the switch "normally open". (Note; you can test this switch with the door open by pulling it out. It will stay pulled out and will be in the same state as it is when pushed in)
Now the door lock;
The machine believes the door is locked when the grey U-shaped optic to the right of the bill validator is blinded. There should be a tab on the door lock that drops into the optic when the door is locked. If it is not there than a piece of electrical tape put in the U of the optic will blind it. When the optic is blinded a small red LED will light on the side of the optic facing the validator. Look for the red LED to be on when you have blinded the optic.
With the white cherry switch pushed in/or pulled out and the door lock optic blinded you should get an error 51 and the game should now play.

[SpectresShadow]

Yes it is an ultra. I had double checked with many different sources to verify. The lock optic is blinded by the metal arm attached to the lock on the cabinet activating the little red led, and the switches are set up the same way as the one you have pictured uniman. I have even tried all four different sets of contacts on the two cherry switches in the machine and another known good switch I found lying around the shop and tested outside of the machine first, and the machine still says that the door is open. I have exhausted all my knowledge that I have from working on machines like this and still cannot get it to work. Thank you for your input and if you have any other theories, I would greatly appreciate them.

[uniman]

The wires from your cherry switch go behind the third reel to a connector on the reel deck. There are three connectors there, the switch is wired to the middle one. Unplug it and reconnect it.
Then go to the front of the MPU board where the black connector plugs into the board. Unplug it and reconnect it too. Then try the machine.

The switch's green wire goes to the bottom right on the black connector at the board. If the machine still doesn't work I would use an ohm meter and check for continuity between the green wire at the white switch and the green wire at the black connector.

I'm thinking the problem maybe at the black connector, make sure it is seated.

[jbshocks]

If I recall I had to reseat my MPU before as well to go from 50 to 51.  As you will read on NLG the MPU to back plane connection is a common issue.

[SpectresShadow]

I have reseated all connectors and ohmed out the green wire, still won't leave the error 50. The edge connector (black connector) has been reseated several times to no avail. Again, if anyone has any other theories as to what is going on here, I am all ears.

[jbshocks]

You said you have reseated the edge connector,  are you saying that you have removed the MPU and reseated it?  If not try that.  If reseating alone does not work look the pins over with a magnifying glass for corrosion.  Uniman has some tips on here about cleaning corroded pins that have worked well. 

[SpectresShadow]

I figured it out. When reseating the edge (black) connector on the main board, make sure that all the wires are properly seated in the connector and not being pushed out when seating the connector. My problem, after all that work, was a simple little pin not having its tab pushed out enough to hold it in place.  The culprit was the blue with black tracer located on the right side of the connector directly above the green wire coming from the door switch. Thanks again to everyone who had helped me with this problem.

[uniman]

Way to go! 
That's not a common problem and would be hard to see. The blue/black wire is the return signal from your door lock optic. I was going to suggest replacing the optic next even though it was giving a red LED when blinded. Glad you found it!