It's dead, Jim! Sigma W4213?

[modessitt]

Got a dead Sigma slot and can't figure out what's going on.  The model plate says Model # W4213.  It is a Time To Win, and the front glass says (C) 1991.  The lights light up and that's it.  Nothing on the display.  Reels don't spin.  Coin Comparator LED is off and coins drop straight through.  I've reseated all the socketed chips, and turning the Reset key doesn't do anything.  I can't find any Test buttons inside the game, but I may not be looking in the right place.

Any help on what to do next, or a manual or repair guide, would be great.

Here are a few crappy cell phone pics of the machine in question:

[FORDSBS]

First thing to check on them is power supply

[modessitt]

First thing to check on them is power supply

Great!  Well, not really.

I looked in the power box with the switch on the inside left, and I don't see any fuses or transformers per se.  So, either I'm not looking at the right thing or whatever.  If I had a wiring diagram I could check the power inputs at the board connector.

And I don't know if it matters, but there is nothing connected at Con4 and I don't don't if there should be...

[FORDSBS]

I'm not sure on your machine but on a SG35 & SG50 the power supply is behind reels

[Jim]

SG-32B=18.75,WITHOUT HANDLE  21 with handle,    SG-50B=21.25 WITHOUT HANDLE,  24.75 with handle.

power supply is behind the reels on the SG-50,   behind the hopper on the SG-32.

CN4 is for SDS.    power supply puts out three voltages, +5vdc, 12vdc,and 24 vdc.  they can be measured at the power distribution board on the front door.  CN-22, pins 4/5 are ground,pins 6/7 is the  +5VDC,  PIN 13 is the +12 vdc.   usually the +5vdc  drops down to +4.7vdc and won't operate the game.

hope this helps

Jim

[modessitt]

Thanks.  There's nothing behind the hopper but the plate where the power cord comes into the cabinet.

I don't recall seeing it behind the reels when I had the reels out, but I wasn't looking for it at the time.  Would there be fuses in there as well?

On a side note - when at the customer's house, the game tripped the GFI outlet in the garage whenever it was turned on, but doesn't trip the breaker at the shop.  I know some games (arcade at least) sometimes have problems running on a GFI circuit, and unfortunately their entire house is like that.  if that is a problem once I have the slot working, what would my options be to resolve that?

[cowboygames]

Run an extension cord from the neighbors house? Just kidding, if it trips their GFCI breakers and it's an initial draw problem, then you'd have to get a higher amperage GFCI for the circuit the machine is plugged into. I would suspect that a problem with the machine is what causes the breaker to trip and will probably go away with the repair of the machine. Worst case, if the problem persists, would be to put the machine lighting on a separate switch so it would stay off until the machine is running and turned on thereafter, thus reducing the amperage draw on the breaker when the game is turned on

[Jim]

usually when a ground fault interupt trips its telling you of a short in the wiring, or something is not wired correctly. a hot wire is creating a high resistance short to ground. (pinched wire somewhere)

GFI's are only required in bathrooms and on outdoor/garage type circuits, usually where there is a potential of electricity and water to come in contact with one another, theory is the breaker will trip before anyone could get shocked, 

you should be able to duplicate it at your house by plugging the machine into a GFI, then unhook all the 115vac items in the machine one at a time until the GFI doesn't trip. If you can't duplicate this at your home on a GFI then perhaps the circuit at the owners home is mis-wired.   

there are no fuses in the machine, there may be one inside the power supply .


Jim   

[Mr. Dinoman]

Follow the wiring that goes to CN1 on the MPU board...That should lead you to the powersupply...On a side note (and mentioned above) a GFCI is only a Ground Fault Circuit Interupter-not a circuit breaker...Meaning if the machine is only tripping the GFCI then there is something wrong with the wiring in the machine...If it is tripping (which you say is not) a circuit breaker-Then the machine is not drawing to much current for the circuit it is plugged into...Hopefully that makes more sense to you...Remove the hopper, MPU board and the upper glass and post some better photo's...Photos help a lot  also a closeup of you MPU board might help to...
Jimmy

[proten]

This is how a GFCI works

A GFCI outlet monitors the flow of electricity from the hot slot to the neutral slot, and there should be an even balance of power transfer between those areas. If for some reason that flow of power is interrupted, the GFCI flips the reset switch, thus turning off power to the outlet. A GFCI outlet also has "reset" and "test" buttons; if for whatever reason the GFCI option is switched on because of a power-flow issue, the user simply hits the reset button to turn the power to the outlet back on.

[Mr. Dinoman]

 A GFCI is specifically designed to protect people against electric shock from an electrical system, and it monitors the imbalance of current between the ungrounded (hot) and grounded (neutral) conductor of a given circuit. Don't let the name confuse you — these devices will operate on a circuit that does not have an equipment-grounding conductor.

With the exception of small amounts of leak-age, the current returning to the power supply in a typical 2-wire circuit will be equal to the current leaving the power supply. If the difference between the current leaving and returning through the current transformer of the GFCI exceeds 5 mA (61 mA), the solid-state circuitry opens the switching contacts and de-energizes the circuit.

However, a GFCI doesn't give you a license to be careless. Severe electric shock or death can occur if you touch the hot and neutral conductors in a GFCI-protected circuit at the same time because the current transformer within the protection device won't sense an imbalance between the departing and returning current and the switching contacts will remain closed.

[modessitt]

Thanks for the technical walkthru of GFI.  I have seen perfectly working arcade games trip a GFI.  I have received some Sigma manuals, and will be going through the power supply to see what's up.  I just asked in case I get this thing working just fine, and it still trips the GFI...

[modessitt]

Well, it seems all three power supplies - +5, +12, and +24 - are dead.  120vac input to each and zero output.  No LEDs lit, fuses on all three are good.

I'm thinking about replacing all three with one new PS that outputs all three voltages - the PT-65D:

http://www.arcadeshop.com/pics/pt-65-spec.pdf

Size looks like it would fit, and I can adapt the wiring for the connections.  Any reason why this wouldn't work?

[Jim]

that's interesting,   have only  seen individual power supplies on Sigma Poker machines,  most of the power supplies for the SG-32/50 series were just one supply that provided all three voltages.Don't see why it wouldn't work.

A few months ago a member on this site said he had actual O.E.M.  power supplies for Sigmas.  Darell at slots4home.

Jim

[Mr. Dinoman]

did you check to see if the power supply was wired for 120vac and not 220vac?

[modessitt]

Here are the three power supplies.  The inputs are labeled 'AC IN 85-125v".  Looks original to the machine....

edit:  I removed the cover from the +5 supply for troubleshooting purposes...

[Mr. Dinoman]

Where you saying earlier that there was not 110vac going to each powersupply?...Have you bench checked the powersupply's?

[modessitt]

There IS 120vac going to each power supply.  I have also applied a different 120vac source on the bench, and still no LED and no power output.  Fuse is good on all three.  I found a blown cap on the +5 and replaced it, but that didn't change anything.  Don't see any blown transistors, diodes, or rectifiers either...

[Mr. Dinoman]

strange all three are bad...Sounds like someone plugged it into 220vac...

[modessitt]

I don't know the history of it.  They got it from their mother-in-law non-working.  I'd think the flourescents would be dead if it was plugged into 220, but who knows.

Now I need to find a PS that puts out those three voltages, as that other place doesn't have any in stock...

[riverratmike]

Got a dead Sigma slot and can't figure out what's going on.  The model plate says Model # W4213.  It is a Time To Win, and the front glass says (C) 1991.  The lights light up and that's it.  Nothing on the display.  Reels don't spin.  Coin Comparator LED is off and coins drop straight through.  I've reseated all the socketed chips, and turning the Reset key doesn't do anything.  I can't find any Test buttons inside the game, but I may not be looking in the right place.

Any help on what to do next, or a manual or repair guide, would be great.

Here are a few crappy cell phone pics of the machine in question:

did you check the fuse in the power supply? There is one in there.

[modessitt]

As I mentioned above, there is a fuse inside each power supply.  Each fuse is good.  Input voltage is good.  Ouput voltage is nothing...

[Bubalettow]

Any luck finding power supplies? I am running into a similar problem (no power out of my 12v supply and no LEDs on wither 12v or 5v)