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Author Topic: S+ no door closure  (Read 3401 times)
FOXSSLOTS1
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« on: April 20, 2012, 09:40:13 PM »

I don't give up easy and I am about to on this one - have an S+ that I cannot get door closure - the optics are good - the wiring from the optics to the mother board are good - the bv door wiring to the mother board is good - the mother board and cpu - changed out.  The reset switch is good.   There are no broken wires in the door harness - all I have is a pile of my hair on the floor. 
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cowboygames
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« Reply #1 on: April 20, 2012, 09:48:46 PM »

 And then optics are lining up ok when you close the door?
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poppo
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« Reply #2 on: April 20, 2012, 10:19:03 PM »

I moved my optics to the tray. Makes it easier to work on stuff with the door open. Then I just slide that piece of plastic in between to simulate an open door. Less to go wrong.  yes


* optics.jpg (263.96 KB, 942x855 - viewed 286 times.)
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FOXSSLOTS1
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« Reply #3 on: April 20, 2012, 10:58:59 PM »

appreciate that but it is NOT the optics and not the bv wiring - or the mpu or cpu. of this I am certain.
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poppo
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« Reply #4 on: April 20, 2012, 11:07:51 PM »

Is one of the other doors open like the cash can door (or if it was bypassed, the wires open)?
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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #5 on: April 21, 2012, 12:59:01 AM »

Fox,
Check the receiver door optic on a known good machine.
It will be the one on the right hand side of the cabinet wall...not the door.
That one cannot be checked with a camera as it does not emit light - it only "receives" light.

You can also loosen the two screws that hold it and with the door partially closed -
hold it right against the door's emitter optic and watch the "Coins Played" window.
It should go out momentarily.
If it does, that means you just don't have them lined up right when the door latch is locked down.

Also, some S+'s have some switch sensors for the belly door.
They usually put them up on the left hand side under the top lip.

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Jim
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« Reply #6 on: April 21, 2012, 01:04:58 AM »

Barry,
check the door optic connector, meter should read +5vdc,

cabinet optic connector should read +10vdc.

if the board is good, the motherboard is good, then it has to be wiring.   

did you check the jumper  up in the corner near the service switch???   that's  the only area that could keep the ground loop open.  on both connectors the green/blue wire should read zero ohms to any metal part.   if it is open and there is a jumper  at the position I mentioned before,  in the back of the cabinet, in the reel area, behind the meters there is a single wire with a pronged connection on it, it is also green/blue,  ground this wire and see if it doesn't cure the problem.

you can give me a call, I hate to type.

Hope this helps

Jim
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MIDWEST SLOTS   Selling Quality Slot Machines since 1995.  We service and repair all types of slot machines. Mills, Jennings, Bally EM, 1000/2000 series, Proslot, 6000. IGT  M, M+ ,S,  S+, S-2000,  I-Game,  Universal,  Video Poker, Sigma.
FOXSSLOTS1
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« Reply #7 on: April 21, 2012, 08:35:54 AM »

 
  again, this is why i pulled my hair out - I DID ALL THE CORRECT TESTS for the optics - it is NOT the optics.  they are GOOD - they line up etc.  so I will test the voltages - because the wiring is good back to the mother board for all wiring including the BV etc.
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TZtech
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« Reply #8 on: April 21, 2012, 08:51:19 AM »

Check the fuses and also IO test to see if any other inputs are stuck in the on position.
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FOXSSLOTS1
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« Reply #9 on: April 21, 2012, 04:49:06 PM »


7.5vdc each?
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