Who made this poker machine?

[Faeger]

I'm on my way to perhaps buy my first video poker machine.
There is a number on it, perhaps serial:  9805-019

The monitor shows error 51010 on start up.

So my questions are:
Who made the machine and which model is it?
Will it be easy or at least possible to repair?

[stayouttadabunker]

Interesting...it has a pinball machine quarter slot in the top box.
You can push the yellow button down to clear a jammed coin.

[Mr. Dinoman]

Can you post pictures of the insides?

[Faeger]

Sorry, I haven't bought it yet. but I will ask the seller if he can give me some pics from inside.

If it's for any help, the machine takes Swedish coins, 1,5 and 10 Kr. The 10 Kr coin came out in Sweden 1991.
I don't know how those machines works, if it possible that the machine is older than 1991 and that they only upgraded the coinslot.

[Faeger]

Hi again.
I did get some pictures, but not from the inside.
I post them anyway, it's showing the 2 labels on the games backside. If I got this right, The Samsung label is only telling me which monitor is sitting inside. The other label is more interesting, but doesn't tell me that much, but perhaps anyone of you van read out more from it. I'll try to get some pics from the inside.

[Neonkiss]

Orion Gaming was bought out by Williams.
I think that would make it hard to find parts, programs and clear chips.

[Faeger]

Hi again.
i got a picture from the inside. I bought the machine on win or loose.
Does the picture help any further? I would be really happy if someone could suggest where to find more information.

The error message comes directly from start But we tried to turn power on/off many dozens time and twice it came to a system bla bla, and once it came to the startup screen. But nothing more happened. (In the system thing som numbers changed, but the mode where never finished)

So any ideas? I'm also new to this forum, so when I wan't to post a question about how to fix this machine, am I in the right place of the forum? I don't know whether it should be placed in general or Williams.

[stayouttadabunker]

I don't know anything about Orion machines but it does look like a game that someone
put together from a cherrymaster-like board.
The reason I say this is because of the power supply on the floor in there.
That's exactly the same type of 5/12 volt power supply that is used for cherry master game boards.
It just so happens that yours is some sort of poker board in a possible older style Williams machine cabinet?

Now, the way the coins are inserted come from a pinballball-type of machine
and the coin hopper looks like it came out of a paschislo game.
Those type of boards are hooked up to LCD monitors similar to one that you use for a regular computer desktop.
Having your post is fine here in the "video slot" category because I really don't think it's a real slot-machine as we know them that exist on "live" casino floors - it seems to be more of a game machine that someone put together for a store that has Cherry Masters running.
That could be why you don't see anyone responding that much to your posts.
I can help you a little as I know a few things about video games but I would need to know exactly what is showing up on the video screen - not  "blah, blah,blah" because "blah, blah,blah" to you ...means something different to me.
The machine is putting out possible codes.
If you could post a clear photo of the start up screen that would be more helpful to us as to troubleshooting the problem with your game.
Remember, the more you can show us - the better we can help you.

[Faeger]

Hi and thank for your answers. The things you said is really making sense, because we have seen some soldering inside, so it doesn't quite look original to me either.

On most of all startup the machine only shows this on the screen in red text:

ERROR 51010

Twice of perhaps over hundred tries to start it showed the bla bla thing, sorry but I missed to take a photo. But I try to describe it as best as I can.

There is two blocks with two columns in each of them. In the left column is standing text and the right there is numbers. like 0100100111 I (doesn't remember whether it was other numbers than 0 and 1)
The information was pretty same in the two blocks, but in the lower one the numbers was changing, and it never stopped.
At the bottom there where 2 rows above each other. On one it stood uhmmm was it screen or something like that? with number like 129 and on the line beneath it stood music and with a number like 159.

Only once the game came to something like a real startup screen and didn't came further. In the mode it reacted with different sounds when we hit the different buttons. I have tried to contact truemax AB but it seems like they have gone away from the market.

[stayouttadabunker]

Best I can tell you is some guy from Norway or Sweden made that board.
All my Google searches end up with a very ...uh..."Non-American" language...

I have never seen this poker board before before however -
it does appear that you have a good, working monitor!
That's the good news!
I have a question though.
Has it ever actually worked while you've had it?
From what you're telling me, it appears that the board is in
some sort of "Game Setting Accounting" mode - NOT a configuration mode.
What I would try is this:

Turn the power off, look for a toggle switch and flip it once.
This toggle switch is a reset switch for most Cherry Master/8-Liner type of boards.
What it does basically is cut the power momentarily from the onboard battery that keeps the settings in the CMOS memory chip.
When you turn the power back on, the board will be back at "factory" settings.
That's usually a good way to start things off.
Tell us what comes up after you power up after hitting that toggle switch or reset button.

If you find that it still will not accept a coin or bill, then you will need to hit a "Test" button on the board
or somewhere in the cabinet that gets one into the Configurations Options.
Could be two little buttons on a double switch connected to some wires to the MPU board.
Whatever you do, do NOT hit that toggle switch while the power is on!
It is usually detrimental to the board if done with live power.

Toggle switches are usually red to show the owner that it's the CMOS reset switch.
You may see different stuff on the start up screen or the game may actually work!
You need to differentiate which is a toggle switch and which is a Test button.
Only the Test button may be activated while the power is on.
This should bring up different screens and you'll know that you are in the Configuration Options mode!

I hope all the Configuration settings are not in Swedish or Norweigian language.
If so, you will have to Google up some sort of a language translator website
and figure out from there what the words are.

If you're scared to hit buttons, post up here a nice, hi-resolution photo of the front of the MPU game board
and I will photoshop some diagrams onto the photo.
The board is on the left wall of the cabinet.
The MPU board is that large board where all the wires are going to.
It has a whole crapload of IC components soldered onto it.
I will try to pinpoint what witch does what for you..

The two smaller green boards at this time, are some sort of I/O boards that convert signals from either the coin acceptor or bill acceptor to the deck buttons and MPU board.
Disregard them somewhat for now, but at least check the wiring to them to make sure everything's attached -
I don't like the way they are loosely hanging there.
That's not good for wiring connections actually.




Good Luck!

[Faeger]

Thanks a lot for your answers.
The game has worked with the last owner, but not with me. He told me that he didn't play regular, so it may have stood without power for months.

Later we will try your answers, I think that my helpful dad will solder the battery off, (if he don't find the switch) At the same time he will take a couple of photos from the board.

I'm swedish and the language will not be an issue
The company that may have made the board, Truemax, they don't exist any more. Their name stood in the screen in the last post and also stands on some labels in the machine.

I'll be back with more info and photos later. And I hope it will sta

[stayouttadabunker]

If he unsolders one leg of the battery - that the same as hitting the toggle switch.
However, he needs to solder the leg onto the board afterwards.
While the leg is unsoldered - that would be an ideal time to check the voltage of it with a multimeter.
Without actually seeing this battery, my guess is that it should read somewhere around 3 volts DC.

Toggle switches for 8-liner type game boards are usually "momentary" toggle switches.
Temporary "On" or "Off" switches.
In your case, it's normally on but upon hitting it once, it "momentarily" breaks the circuit to the battery.
That effectively resets the machine somewhat, to it's factory state.
It also wipes out the internal accounting but that's okay -
you'll be playing it as "new" again!  

[Faeger]

Hmmm, nothing new happened after we have soldering the battery off. The voltage did we measure earlier to 3-3,5 volt.

So next step for us is to look for the test button.
At least we took  photos from both side of the circuit board. Sorry for the red tone, I hope that it is good enough.

[stayouttadabunker]

Excellent photo!
It's amazing how that board is so closely similar to an 8-Liner / Cherry Master arcade MPU board.
I wasn't surprised at all when I saw it.

1st off, I think your CMOS battery is fine with those voltage readings!  

However, that model doesn't seem to have a toggle switch.
It's using an embedded momentary switch soldered directly onto the board at IC location "SW5".
See how the board traces run straight up to the area between the onboard battery and the CMOS memory chip?
That black button, when pushed - cuts the power off the CMOS chip.

Like I said earlier, somewhere in the cabinet should be two buttons coming from
the harness that connects to the long right side 36-pin connections? ( I didn't count them...should be 72 tab connections in all )
The wires coming from the smaller 14-pin connections (7 tabs on both sides) on the bottom of the MPU are for various power sources
and probably go directly out to the black power supply box on the floor.

I highlighted the dip switches as well.
It looks like there are 4 dip switches packages of 8 switches each.
Setting those a certain way allows one to configure a game for various things such as coin denomination, bill acceptor settings, game play, percentages, and other various options like holding cards and others.
I can see that some are in the "On" positions - while others are in the "Off" positions.
Leave them "as is" for now....do NOT change them as we don't have any idea what does what right now!

Here's your photo with my notes and arrows to help show you what I'm talking about.
Click on photo to enlarge if desired...>>>