Need help with a Sigma Blackjack Machine, won't coin up

[Amachanic]

I just picked up a 1992 Sigma Blackjack machine over the weekend.. I don't know what model number since it does not have a tag..  When I first powered it up it had an error message on the screen.. I jumped the reset key switch and the machine cyclied and came to life.. Yea    I was able to play 3-4 hands of Blackjack and won on a double down.. It asked if I wanted to play again using my credits or cash out.. I decided to cash out and check the hopper... It paided out correctly, now I went to try to play again but now the coins don't register credits?? I opened the door, the comparitor light on, checked the connections and tried to coin up again.. Still falling right into the hopper?? I turned the machine off for 30 seconds and powered back on, now my comparitors lights out and the coins are falling straight through to the coin tray?? I don't see and fuses to check so I'm now lost and need help.. What should I look for next     I forgot to mention that the machine been in storage for a few years before being powered up today. Do I have a bad comparitor or a power supply?

Gary  

[Amachanic]

couple more pics

[Amachanic]

and more pics..

[Jim]

it appears that you have a B-52 model machine.   you can replace the three key switches with momentary switches, the first is the reset, the second meters lamps and the third is last game recall.

the power supplies are located above the board on the top inside, there are two of them, one is +5vdc, and the other +12vdc, both should have red leds on them to indicate that they are running, the outputs are easy to get to for measuring the voltage, I think they are adjustable as well.  the +12vdc supply runs the coin comp.   

it has a two position cherry switch that you could simulate the door closed( even though it is open) to test and look at things while in operation.  you should be able to remove the cc and drop coins directly into the optics( Black "U" shaped item below the cc.) the one way below it is to count the coins going to the overflow, it is the same as the one up top. there is a test button near the power on switch that will put you in the diagnostic mode, using the reset switch and others and the button panel you can test every feature of that machine. Some books for that unit are labeled HR-IM .


Hope this helps

Jim   

[Amachanic]

Thanks for the information Jim. I did push the test button but all it did was set off a bell? I didn't see any menus? Now as for the optics the one below the comparitor looks to be cracked. I was just talking to a local friend who works on slot and he mentioned to try swapping out the top and bottom optics to see if that helps? Does anyone have spare optics for sale that will work in this Blackjack machine?? Both of the power supply's in the top have the red LED lights on.
Gary

[Amachanic]

I tried switching the machines optics and recieved an error message saying wrong or dirty optics, both are in very rough condition.. How do I check the voltages at the power supplys? Each has 5 wires as seen in pic 1711. Both power supplys do have the red leds lit on.. My other question is how do I put this machine in diagnostic mode? I see the test button and I found out that the reset key from my S2000 works the reset and last game key slots.. Does anyone have a Manual or know where I can get one for this machine??

Thanks Gary

[Jim]

to check the power supply outputs:  the one on the right is the +5vdc supply, the white and the black are the 115vac in, the center is the field ground, the green and the red on the right are the +5vdc.   the power supply on the left is the +12vdc supply, again the white and black are the 115vac in, the center is the field ground, the green and the orange are the +12vdc .

the test button is on the right hand side of the door open cherry switch, that bell you here is the door open alarm, anytime you push or pull that plunger you will hear the alarm.

just push the test switch to get into the diagnostics, then follow the on screen directions to run all the tests.

hope this helps

Jim

[Amachanic]

Ok thanks for information on checking the power supply's, I'll check them after work tomorrow. Now a question on the comparitor... The red led lights not on. Someone local to me today said that could be off due to the coin optics being dirty or bad, is that true?? It was on the first time the machine was powered up, or is it bad too?

Thanks Gary

[Jim]

I don't have a machine in my shop, I am doing this from memory, and my memory isn't as good as it was,  ,  anyway, I think when your in a tilt mode everything is shut down until you clear the tilt, to clear the tilt use the reset switch, this should put you back in the game play mode again.
maybe put the optics back in the original position.

I have a book I will try and get to you, and  I think I might have some optics, I have to find all my Sigma stuff and see what I have.


Jim

[Amachanic]

Thanks Jim..    I did figure out that the top and bottom optics are different and can't be swapped out by the error message I received when I tried that. That would be great if you came find sort of book or paper work on this thing. It's in great shape, just some slight chrome pitting. The video is crystal clear with great color. Not a bad buy at $135.

Gary

[Jim]

here is the info  that I have on your game      you will have to print it to get it in the right order, best I can do !


Hope this helps

Jim

[Amachanic]

here is the info  that I have on your game      you will have to print it to get it in the right order, best I can do !


Hope this helps

Jim

Thanks you so much for your help Jim... K+ to you

[Amachanic]

Ok... I got in my new coin optics today from Rudy's. Super fast service     I'm still having a problem getting the Sigma Blackjack to accept coins. My comparitors lights off and the diverter flap not energized?? This machine was working till I cashed out after a double down? It's almost like the machines frozen or locked up like one of my old computers I've tried the reset switch key and the inside test button and nothing?? The machine powers up to the last hand played and that's it. Anyone have a clue what I should try?

Thanks Gary

[Neonkiss]

Thanks you so much for your help Jim... K+ to you

I guess the new line will be   Like to you....+
or here's some like +
Man this sound Gay. I miss the Karma.

[Amachanic]

Thanks you so much for your help Jim... K+ to you

I guess the new line will be   Like to you....+
or here's some like +
Man this sound Gay. I miss the Karma.

Isn't there away to put it back the way it was?? Your right it does sound Gay. I'm not going around saying I like you...   

[Jim]

regarding your coin comp. problem:   you only have two wires going to your cc, one is ground and the other is +12vdc.  if you are getting that voltage on those two wires then the cc should work, meaning the LED should be on,  if the voltage is there and no LED, then I would have to suspect the cc is bad.

you should be able to remove the cc and drop coins directly onto the optics unit, if everything is working it should credit the game.  you can do all this with the door open (just pull out the cherry switch
to pretend that the door is closed). the +12 volts comes from the power distribution board (to the left of the cc)  it is fed by the gray ribbon cable from the main cabinet. because of the flexing and position of this cable I have seen it get pinched and torn open. so If your +12vdc power supply is putting out +12vdc, then you have an open wire from the power supply to the cc.

to unlock the game:  I have had to do this to get the game to respond,  on DIP switch #2  move one of the switches from on to off (power off) usually #1 or #2  this would change the denomination on the screen. when you power the game back on, the computer knows you changed that switch, so it will issue an alert that the dip has been changed and it will ask you to turn the reset key switch to confirm, once you do this hopefully the game will go back to the normal mode.  then you have to go back and repeat the process to get back to the original denomination setting .

Hope this helps.

Jim

   

[Amachanic]

I know the machine is seeing the optics because I tried switching them around and I got an error message that they were dirty or defective. I will have to see if there is power at the comparitor. Right under the comparitor is a coin flap or divertor that is not energized.. It looks to be hooked up to a solenoid that when energized lifts the diverator so coins go into the hopper. Right now they fall back into the coin tray.. I will take a few more pics of the door and other power supplys and boards.. Thanks for your time and help on this matter Jim..

Gary
.

[Amachanic]

Ok... I had a little time to work on this machine again today.. I had the main board out, pulled and re-seated the eproms. The Cap/Battery only has a 1.63 volts, not sure if this matters? I did check voltages at the power supplys, 120v in coming on both, and 5.10 & 12.15 going out so that seems ok... I checked for line voltage at my comparitor and have none, should be 12V... Are there any places on the MPU where I can check voltages?? Here are a few other of the of boards in the machine.. The high voltages seem fine, the door lights work and the power plug next too the on / off switch have 120v, it just seems that the low voltages have the problem.. The large ribbon cable connects to the MPU and runs out to the board on the front door, that must be what carries my 12V to the coin comparitor? Could my low voltage problem be cause my a defective MPU??  I did try changing the dip switch setting to change the game, but that didn't help either      

Thanks Gary

PS... I don't see any fuses any where in the machine except on the one board on the back wall and it meter out to be good?

[Amachanic]

couple more pics

[Amachanic]

few more... Heres one of the monitor with the last game played, and can't seen to clear?

[Amachanic]

Time for an up date... I was able to locate a different newer MPU for this machine, it has a battery instead of the cap now, and I now have 3V. I swapped out all the Eproms and game chips to the new board. After installing it and power on the machine it came up wrong ram, and needed to be reset. Once I turned the reset key the machines game came up .. I'm able to get it to the machines test mod and back out.. I was able to play the game for about 30 minutes without no problems. So now lets try to cash out.. The hoppers powered up and paided out the coins won, but once again as before the machine locked up  . If I insert a coin it goes into the hopper, but the machine does not count the coin or coins?? At this point the machines on but thats all, can't access the test mods, and the reset key does nothing? So I powered down the machine for 3-5 minutes turned it back on, and now it's saying wrong ram again and to turn reset key..  After turning the reset I'm able to play as long as I want without no problems, but once you cash out your winnings the machine locks up again? Does anyone have any Ideas 

[gordy]

Did you put the dip back to it's original position ?  If you did then try this dip swich move again.. Jim is the real pro here and you will want to check with him first.
  I assume you got a coin -in optic from Rudy's with a white  " N " on it.  The lower optic has a white " D " and that is only for the coin DROP.  It has 2 eyes.   The upper one has 4 eyes.  Only an "N" will work for coins in, although a guy made a 2 into a 4  a few years ago.

[Amachanic]

Yea I have replace both coin optics. I also copied and set both sets of dip switches and the 2 jumper wires next to switch #1. I was hoping the problem was with the MPU since it looks like it been repaired in the past. Now I'm wondering if I have a problem with one of the games chips or eproms?

Gary

[Jim]

what are the settings for your two sets of dip switches and jumpers.

all those other boards are for a sds system. 

[Amachanic]

Ok.. Switch SW1, off, off, on, off, on, on, on, off, off, off.
Switch SW2, on, off, off, on, on, on, off, on, off, on.
The jumpers are JW1 thru JW6. Numbers 3 and 4 have jumpers, 1-2 & 5-6 are open.

Gary