Univerasl Ultra Double Marquis Hlep

[wadwerks]

I am new here and just purchased a non working machine but thanks to all the great posts on here it is almost back up and running. problem I have is that it just doesn't seem to want to read quarters at all. I'm not really sure what I am doing but i adjusted it so the coin falls through like I think it should but half the time it comes out in the bottom tray but even when the coin goes in the hopper I still get no credit for it. I think if I had an idea how the coin comparitor worked I could prob figure it out but iI am totally lost at this point so any help would be greatly appreciated. If its any help the coin comparitor say CC-620 "B" .570. on it.

[jbshocks]

does it have a sample coin in it?

[wadwerks]

Yea im pretty sure. I stuck a quarter in the outer piece that slides back and forth then tightened it down and left it in there seems like the coin falls and there is a solenoid that would move and let the coin go into the hopper but it doesn't seem to be working but it does move when i adjust the sensitivity so i think its just not recognizing the coin. Even when it goes to the hopper it doesn't give me any credit.

[jbshocks]

Does the insert coin light flash on the front of the machine? 

The coin comparitor and sample only decides if the coin should should be accepted or returned.  If it is a match the rake open and the coin goes straight through and is counted by the optics.  If not a match it returns to the tray. Assuming you have a code 51 and insert coin,  Try to shim the rake open,  just use a paper clip, stick or what ever.  The door must be closed or the cherry switch pulled out.  See if any coins count.  Will it take dollar bills or is BV off?  Also have you reseated the board?  I have had the infamous back plane connector issues cause my machine to not take coins.

[jbshocks]

Also was it set up for quarters before?  If set for $1 or $5 the rake that forces the quarter past the optic will need adjustment.

[wadwerks]

The insert coin light is on i was getting a code 97 so i shut down the bv. I have no clue if it was set up for bills only this is the closest ive gotten to getting it to work. What part is the rake. I have reseated the board several times and cleaned it really good that was a big part of getting it to where im at now. I was gonna worry about the bv later once i got it working but maybe i should just try and get it going now and see if that way works.

[jbshocks]

picture is the rake.   I used the wrong term  the rake will reject the coin.  Shim this open.   the guide is what will direct the coin past the optic.   Don't play with BV just yet.  

Uniman will probably jump in with some ideas for you.

[jbshocks]

this is the guide.  See the marks on the black and the silver guide that just sticks out?

[wadwerks]

Yea I held the rake open that is what i have to do to make the coins go into the hopper. Is the little black thing at the bottom the sensor? Mine has a little metal L bracket coming off of it I adjusted it to just fit the size of the quarter through it. Ill take a pic here in a few when I head home for lunch.

[jbshocks]

the black to the right of my finger is the sensor.  So it will only send coins to hopper with rake propped open?  I assume you are using something to prop open and shutting the door or pulling the cherry switch out while holding the rack open.  I am trying to make sure because if the door is open you will have a code 50 and no insert coin light.

[wadwerks]

Yea I pulled the switch out and did it with the door open I also tried it with the door shut but still no luck

[wadwerks]

I did get a code 24 but i went away after i did a restart. It does have in issue now that when I start it if I dont reset the board I will get no front leds and the little flap that sends the quarters to the hopper just flips back and forth every 5 or so seconds.

[jbshocks]

make sure A10 on EC1 back plane is clean.  I believe that is the pin to feed the comparitor power.  I also forgot to mention that when testing with door open and switch pulled, you need to put tape over door optic.  I leave tape on mine all the time.   Also assuming that this is an upright reseat the ribbon cable and check the connector going to the comp on the display end and comp end.

[jbshocks]

How that is acting flacky I am still saying back plane.  Did you try the trick with power off soak the male and female ends of back plane connector with contact cleaner then insert board several times?

[wadwerks]

Yea I did tape the lock sensor another one of the great things from this forum. I soaked every connector i could get my hands on and brass brushed them all good but you could be right if i touch the main board at all I loose the 4 little leds so ill try cleaning it again.

[jbshocks]

sounds like back plane for sure.  try rocking it as you push in and make sure it is fully seated.  I have had good luck with a product called deoxit.  I got a tiny tube of it and inserted every pin on the the back plane connector to coat it with deoxit.   This is the stuff.   http://www.ebay.com/itm/DeoxIT-Gold-Contact-Enhancer-Preservative-Lubricant-2mL-100-Solution-connector-/280848904354?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4163e630a2#ht_2186wt_901 

I will say that I think you can clean it enough to get it running the deoxit seems to eliminate some of the intermittent stuff

[wadwerks]

yea I have a little trick i cam up with at work ill try tonight. I take liquid flux and put a few small drops on a small paper clip and stab each terminal a few times the flux cleans it really good and its a small amount so it wont make a mess then flush it clean with the contact cleaner. It is really time consuming so I just haven't tried it yet but looks like ill spend the time tonight. Hope it works I have a feeling your right it will prob work.

[wadwerks]

Well the board goes in farther now and feels like it fits better but now im getting the tilt light and code 24. Could it be a problem in the harness from the coin assembly to that little module thing? Looks like some one did kind of a crap repair job on a few of the wires but they all look like they are making connection but not 100% sure. Gonna look through my electrical scrap pile and see if i can find any female pins i can use fit in the connector.

[jbshocks]

I assume you have done a ram clear several times and you keep coming back to a 24?  Has the solenoid clicking stopped?  Have you reseated the ribbon cable at both ends?  Please post a picture of the wire damage that you are seeing.  The 24 is a coin comparitor error but I am not sure what it is looking at,  I have never had that one. 

I am hoping Uniman jumps in soon and has some ideas.  Where are you located?  If you happen to be SE Michigan I could test your comparitor in one of my machines.

[uniman]

Does the insert coin light flash on the front of the machine? 

The coin comparitor and sample only decides if the coin should should be accepted or returned.  If it is a match the rake open and the coin goes straight through and is counted by the optics.  If not a match it returns to the tray. Assuming you have a code 51 and insert coin,  Try to shim the rake open,  just use a paper clip, stick or what ever.  The door must be closed or the cherry switch pulled out.  See if any coins count.  Will it take dollar bills or is BV off?  Also have you reseated the board?  I have had the infamous back plane connector issues cause my machine to not take coins.

Not quite right here. The CC-62D verifies the coin is correct, opens the rake to let it pass, and sends a pulse to the board counting the coin. No optics after the comparitor. Unless the diverter is open and it sends the coin to overflow bucket that would be located in the stand at the casino. Then an optic counts it as sent to the overflow.
Your symptoms sound like classic board to backplane problem. But like Jbshocks said; check the connector just above-left of the comparitor where it connects to the green board in the door. Make sure both ends are snapped in. Then check that big gray ribbon cable at the door and the backplane. You need to remove reel #1 to get to it. Disconnect cable and reconnect it making sure it is firmly snapped in top and bottom. I had one of these loose before and it drove me nuts as I was thinking board connection. Best to eliminate obvious first.
You did the right thing by shutting off the BV. Get the machine up and running and then tackle the BV.

[wadwerks]

Hard to get a good picture but I did find the orange wire that goes from the coin unit to the comparitor had been soldered into the female pin and it filled the pin with solder so when you push the clip in it pushes that 1 pin out of the back of the connector. Is there a source for those connector ends I know ive seen them before but don't remember what I saw them on. Would love to find some so I could just splice them. Looks like several of the wires at the comparitor are starting to break apart. But even if i hold the wire in so it is making connection I still get the code but cleaning the board did make the solenoid stop cycling. I am a little far away I am in California. I have cleaned all the terminals on the grey ribon several times. I didnt get code 24 till I moved the coin catch thing I was moving it wound then all of a sudden I got tilt and 24 came up.

[jbshocks]

does a ram clear get rid of the 24 at all at this point.  I believe the connectors are a .1 molex and you can get them here http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/Category-70.asp  I tried a .1 molex male pin in the the female end and it fits perfect.

[wadwerks]

No the code is still there after the ram clear.

[wadwerks]

K i ended up pulling the whole coin comparitor out found 2 wires broken and 4 others just hanging on by 1 or 2 strands. Brought it to work with me today so I plan on fixing all the wires and trying it out once that is fixed. Hope that takes care of it. Is the a diagram at all for the comparitor any where?

[jbshocks]

top connector goes to coin sensor and top down order is yellow, red, white, blank, black.  next 3 wire connector to front optic black, purple, orange.  2 wire connectors to solenoid, both green.  2 wire connector to back of optic black, red.