PE+ bartop door open issue

[crgadyk]

I have several (4) PE+ bar tops that I just bought as a new project. I've gotten one machine so far to boot up and gets to the CMOS error. From reading the site I learned to hold down the white button, wait for the 'ding', and shut the machine. This is where I get stuck. The machine dings and then I try to shut the machine to get rid of the door open status on the screen. I can't get the door open to go away. I temporarily put 2 pieces of wire between the top door optic plus to bypass it but I think the issue is the optic on the front door. Its a single optic that has a piece of reflective tape on the other side to bounce the light back.

Does anyone know how to bypass that optic temporarily to test if that is the real issue? I have 4 optics to try if it was a bad optic but I didn't want to start taking parts off of other machines until I could know for sure that the front door optic is the culprit. My bartop is a deuces wild with the imbedded bill accepter. I'd like to see it work successfully and then I can go back and fix it correctly once I know what the issue is.

[kforeman]

i would pull the optic from another of the games if you know it's got a good optic.  i personally haven't messed with door optics on a bartop PE that i remember, but i jack known good parts from machines all the time to troubleshoot.

[crgadyk]

Yeah thats the trouble... none of the machines were known working when I got them 

Its only 2 screws to take one off and try it so it wouldn't hurt to swap them out.

[knagl]

There is a way to jumper it - it's a single wire jumper that goes into the connector to bypass it.

As far as the main door optics, I wouldn't personally be very keen on bypassing them if you don't have to. I know people have reported trouble getting their S+ machines started after a game change when their door optics are bypassed, and there are a lot of similarities between the two platforms. I'm not saying that it absolutely won't work, but it may cause you headaches.

[crgadyk]

I don't want to bypass them permanently since I know it can cause issues. I'm just trying to pinpoint the real issue without having to swap out a bunch of parts since I'm not sure that any of the optics work since I never saw any of he machines working. Once I saw it working, I was going to go back and get it fixed up correctly.

As for the single wire jumper... where does it go? I see that the plug is a 4 wire plug so I didn't know where to put the wire to override it.

I've only got a total of about $150 (after a few trades and whatnot) in 4 machines so I'll be pretty happy if I can end up with 2 good working machines and some extra parts out of them.

[mb278]

ok ok  there are NO similarities between this system and an S+ Very little anyway other manufacturer    Yes there is a way to bypass and u can proably leave it like that forever  if you want to............   just tie the two wires red to red white to white BE CAREFUL opening the door lol  ,  but that will tell u wether it is the optics or something in the logic.   on the older gameking logic was controlled by a separate board  on these it would probably b on the MPU i believe  correct me if wrong on that        if you are going to try replacing it just b sure u place an Emitter AND a Reciever  Emitter is slightly bulged out optic   reciever optic is flat it will not work if u dont this could b the issue as well    hope this helps 

[knagl]

As for the single wire jumper... where does it go? I see that the plug is a 4 wire plug so I didn't know where to put the wire to override it.

I just looked at my machines, and I don't remember for sure.  The one machine I got that had the optic bypassed with a single wire I replaced with a real optic (I'm a fan of having the machines be as authentic as possible), and I seemingly didn't document where that single wire was in that 4-wire harness.  Sorry.

ok ok  there are NO similarities between this system and an S+ Very little anyway other manufacturer

They use the exact same parts for door optics, the same parts for mechanical meters, the same coin comparators, the same coin-in optics, the same coin-out (hopper) optics, the same hopper assembly, the same bill validators, the same SET chip process for enabling bill validators, the same speakers, hell, the same transformer on the MPU board tray.  Call me crazy, but I'd say that there are greater than "NO" similarities between a PE+ and an S+.   

[crgadyk]

Ok I have bypassed the optic for now (it worked with 2 wires). Now I've gotten past that but I get a "Link Down Call Attendant" error on the screen. I'm assuming its due to it being a prograssive game at one point and its not pointing to a progressive meter.

How can I turn off the progressive link?

[knagl]

This should help:

In the PE+, there's configuration in the menu system for progressive awards.  If they're set to "yes" or a level "1, 2, etc." and there's no controller, you'll get that error message.  If you page through the menu and see one of them enabled, that's the issue.

Screens from the PE+:

Press the self-test button until you get to the screen for progressives, and disable any and all of them.

[mb278]

thanks nagl     yes they use the most basic of the same things , but the way u said it made it sound like they were the exactly alike  also  s+ uses a Set 90 chip  the Pe+  uses something else i believe a set 38     basic programming difference there     they have diferernt programming as well  in thier BV's  most S+ were ID 023 most pe+ were 024  so try again and yes the transformer was the same because thats how u powered a mpu in those days  period,  But the basic opereation of either machine is completely different .... S+ is WAY more mechanical therefore electronic's were much simpler power requirement were about the same though    ANYWAY  as for the issue at hand i see the 5 of a kind is turned on turn that off and it may clear it   but am thinking you will need a keychip 38 this chip is about 40 bucks this will allow you to set denom and clear the ram  which may be what you need to do  i have ONE of these in back fully operational it is an upright though   

[knagl]

they have diferernt programming as well  in thier BV's  most S+ were ID 023 most pe+ were 024  so try again

Both the S+ and PE+ use either ID022 or ID023, which on a DBV is changeable via a DIP switch on the head.  ID024 was for Game King, I-Game, and Vision slots.

the way u said it made it sound like they were the exactly alike

I'm not going to sit here and argue with you any further.  I stated that there are a lot of similarities between the two platforms, a statement I stand by.  I never said or implied that they were exactly alike.

ANYWAY  as for the issue at hand i see the 5 of a kind is turned on turn that off and it may clear it   but am thinking you will need a keychip 38 this chip is about 40 bucks this will allow you to set denom and clear the ram  which may be what you need to do

Considering that the image you looked at and have now drawn conclusions about was a quote from myself from November 2009, I wouldn't be too sure about your diagnosis about crgadyk's machine.  Additionally, the PE+ (much like the S+) uses SET chips, not keychips.  Also, a SET chip will not clear the ram as you stated -- a SET chip on a PE+ (much like the S+) will only enable or disable the bill validator, and permit assignment of denomination.  

If the RAM needs to be cleared -- something that is very unlikely on a PE+ -- crgadyk will need a IVC006 PE+ clear chip.


crgadyk: if you wind up needing a SET chip, I will send you one for free and save you the $40 price those chips are apparently going for.

[mb278]

crgadyk  u still there ??   lol

[crgadyk]

Yes I'm still here. I worked last night until almost midnight and finally got to play my first hand of VP on the new machine. I still have both optics bypassed which I need to fix and I need to start working on the bill validator as well but I was like a kid in a candy store when I played the first hand last night.

I think I might have a couple bad buttons but I have 3 extra machines to pull parts from to try it out 

Thank you for everyone that helped me get it quasi working. It actually had 5 levels of progressive setup so once I disabled those I was able to see the cards for the first time. Then I had a coin in error but that went away once I put the coin comparitor in.

I attached a picture of one of the first hands played. I was messing with the colors so it had a lovely shade of pink. Its filthy and needs a good scrubbing and some beautifying but I can put nickels in it and play so I'm very excited.

[Mirage_Chaser]

they have diferernt programming as well  in thier BV's  most S+ were ID 023 most pe+ were 024  so try again

Both the S+ and PE+ use either ID022 or ID023, which on a DBV is changeable via a DIP switch on the head.  ID024 was for Game King, I-Game, and Vision slots.

the way u said it made it sound like they were the exactly alike

I'm not going to sit here and argue with you any further.  I stated that there are a lot of similarities between the two platforms, a statement I stand by.  I never said or implied that they were exactly alike.

ANYWAY  as for the issue at hand i see the 5 of a kind is turned on turn that off and it may clear it   but am thinking you will need a keychip 38 this chip is about 40 bucks this will allow you to set denom and clear the ram  which may be what you need to do

Considering that the image you looked at and have now drawn conclusions about was a quote from myself from November 2009, I wouldn't be too sure about your diagnosis about crgadyk's machine.  Additionally, the PE+ (much like the S+) uses SET chips, not keychips.  Also, a SET chip will not clear the ram as you stated -- a SET chip on a PE+ (much like the S+) will only enable or disable the bill validator, and permit assignment of denomination. 

If the RAM needs to be cleared -- something that is very unlikely on a PE+ -- crgadyk will need a IVC006 PE+ clear chip.


crgadyk: if you wind up needing a SET chip, I will send you one for free and save you the $40 price those chips are apparently going for.

Ha ha... Ha ha haaaaaa...

Nicely done Knagl made me chuckle.

[knagl]

Congratulations! It's all downhill from here. Start with one set of optics to establish a working set, and go from there.

You have embedded bill validators (nice!). The self-test menu will tell you if the validator is enabled or not. If it's not, you'll need a set chip as previously discussed. There's a sticky topic in this category that explains how to enable the validator.

[crgadyk]

I saw that it was enabled when I went through the menus last night. I saw that there are a few plugs unplugged so I'm hoping thats all that the problem is. All 4 machines have DBV 200 validators in them. That will be the next major task to work on. Nickels are perfectly ok for now though.

I've got about $38 per machine invested so not too shabby 

[Parrothedd]

Helloe Everyone!

I'm brand new to NLG's and you guys have already helped me out.  Thank you!  I was having a Door Open problem with my PE+ and this thread helped me jump it and determine I needed new optics.  Unfortunately, I didn't find out about Rudys Deals until AFTER I spent $38 for a set from Suzo-Happ.  Oh well, chalk it off to education.

Thanks again! I'm sure I'll be spending a lot if time here.  Now that my PE+ is back in working order, I'm thinking about what other games I might be able to put in my Multi-poker.

JT