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Author Topic: Mikohn connecting to machine help?  (Read 19756 times)
emt232004
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« on: July 10, 2012, 01:43:46 AM »
Still new here but I now have a MIKOHN CHAM2 stand alone unit power supply and display, What cables do I need to connect this unit to a bally 5500 Red Hot Genies machine?  Aslo what cables would I need to connect to mastercom 250 to the display and card reader?
« Last Edit: July 13, 2012, 02:09:37 AM by emt232004 » Logged
emt232004
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« Reply #1 on: July 13, 2012, 02:17:30 AM »
I would guess I need something to go from J7 to the machine?

* IMAG0015.jpg (1466.02 KB, 3264x1840 - viewed 759 times.)
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emt232004
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« Reply #2 on: July 13, 2012, 02:18:58 AM »
Or would it be J6?

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bruno
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« Reply #3 on: July 13, 2012, 11:02:42 AM »
Hi emt232004,
I'm not familiar with the Mastercom 250 & card reader, so I hope another member will help you.
For the Mikohn ChamII+ you must connect J7 to J9 & J10 on the backplane of the machine.
I recommend you read the excellent post by StatFreak  >>> newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=7606.0
Bruno   wave
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emt232004
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« Reply #4 on: July 23, 2012, 02:13:58 AM »
How do I get this to go to J9 & J10? The other end is connected to J7

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bruno
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« Reply #5 on: July 23, 2012, 01:53:42 PM »
You must use a specific wiring.
Here's a pic.
NB:Copyright>This pic. from Ford(FORDSBS) member here. Thanks.

* bally cable.JPG (795.18 KB, 2048x1536 - viewed 581 times.)
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FORDSBS
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PET
« Reply #6 on: July 23, 2012, 05:36:55 PM »
They are out there but hard to find. I'd check with vendors @ top of page & Raz410 who is a member.
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emt232004
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« Reply #7 on: October 22, 2012, 07:01:37 PM »
Not having much luck but still looking if anyone has seen one
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emt232004
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« Reply #8 on: November 19, 2012, 07:49:32 AM »
Quote from: bruno on July 23, 2012, 01:53:42 PM
You must use a specific wiring.
Here's a pic.
NB:Copyright>This pic. from Ford(FORDSBS) member here. Thanks.

If I give up on trying to find this and attempt to make one does anyone know where I can get the 12 pin and the two 6 pin connectioins? I found the 4 plug part. What wire would I use? In the photo it looks like there are two white and green wires coming out of the 4 place plug?
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Ron (r273)
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« Reply #9 on: November 19, 2012, 01:01:31 PM »
PM Stayouttadabunker, he is good at finding connectors.

Ron (r273)
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FORDSBS
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« Reply #10 on: November 19, 2012, 01:05:14 PM »
If he's not playing golf.
Quote from: r273 on November 19, 2012, 01:01:31 PM
PM Stayouttadabunker, he is good at finding connectors.

Ron (r273)
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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #11 on: November 19, 2012, 04:02:39 PM »
okay...I just saw this...was redirected by a fellow member! lol
It looks like the single row 12-pin connector with the red lines is an AMP panduit connector.

Gimme a couple of minutes to find it for ya!  yes
« Last Edit: November 19, 2012, 04:25:41 PM by stayouttadabunker » Logged
stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #12 on: November 19, 2012, 05:04:11 PM »
okay...the closest to it I can find is on mouser and it's a 12-pin female connector which would work.
This is similar to the one you need...just a different company makes it but it has the pins which are "solderless".
Basically, you just take a small flat head screwdriver and force the wire down in between the split pin knives that cut through the vinyl wire cover and grab/contact the wire.
Here's the links to them. Just type in the part number in the mouser website and it should come up.
You'd want the 12-pin (12 position) single row plugs...>>>

http://www.te.com/catalog/pn/en/4-643815-2#features

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity-AMP/4-643815-2/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtsLRyDR9nM1w%2fb70V3tmfCwFnOoH7P3tU%3d


These are the NOT most reliable way of making a good connection because if your screwdriver tip is too thick, you risk over-spreading the pin 'knives" and the wire is not very properly "gripped".
The photo I'm attaching is from a 3D snapshot and of a different color due to the software drawing limitations (only two colors) but it's basically your plug...you can see in the photos that they have the wire gripping pins...>>>

* pr06b.jpg (10.9 KB, 200x114 - viewed 1249 times.)
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emt232004
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« Reply #13 on: November 20, 2012, 04:41:43 AM »
Thank you for the help and fast replies.

What type of wire should I use?

Is this the correct part for the black 6 position connectors in the photo?

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/43020-0600/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtsLRyDR9nM13kGx0WjOXXXw%252bkz%252bzciywc%3d
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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #14 on: November 20, 2012, 01:41:05 PM »
Quote from: emt232004 on November 20, 2012, 04:41:43 AM
What type of wire should I use?
Is this the correct part for the black 6 position connectors in the photo?


I'd use 22awg stranded wire for your harness.
The link you chose is the wrong one.
Those look like Molex 2.54's SL connectors....again, it's rather hard without the measurements.
However, I do see the polarized tab or nib in the photo.

The one pictured on the mouser sheet is an 8-pin but you'll see what I mean when you look at this page...>>>

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/22-55-2062/?qs=%2fha2pyFaduj8%2fYfeijvZLz6MuSrIICiBNXV9TjCQEqVFbamTgOP0nw%3d%3d
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McCackie
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« Reply #15 on: November 24, 2012, 10:37:10 PM »
An early molex type plug with pins may be better,  a screwdriver is not the right tool,  it tends to damage the plug.  Look for either 4mm or 0.186" at any half decent electronics store,  not much help, but in Sydney I often buy from  Jaycar these, HM-3432 (2pin), HM-3433 (3 pin) and HM-3436 (6 pin).
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emt232004
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« Reply #16 on: November 30, 2012, 08:59:55 PM »
Quote from: stayouttadabunker on November 20, 2012, 01:41:05 PM
Quote from: emt232004 on November 20, 2012, 04:41:43 AM
What type of wire should I use?
Is this the correct part for the black 6 position connectors in the photo?


I'd use 22awg stranded wire for your harness.
The link you chose is the wrong one.
Those look like Molex 2.54's SL connectors....again, it's rather hard without the measurements.
However, I do see the polarized tab or nib in the photo.

The one pictured on the mouser sheet is an 8-pin but you'll see what I mean when you look at this page...>>>

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/22-55-2062/?qs=%2fha2pyFaduj8%2fYfeijvZLz6MuSrIICiBNXV9TjCQEqVFbamTgOP0nw%3d%3d




 I found that if you open the pdf file for page 1623 it shows the 6pin part H rather than the 8 shown on their stock page it looks close and I will give that a try. Thanks
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emt232004
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« Reply #17 on: October 22, 2013, 03:28:42 PM »
Quote from: FORDSBS on July 23, 2012, 05:36:55 PM
They are out there but hard to find. I'd check with vendors @ top of page & Raz410 who is a member.


I was finally able to find one from Raz410 on ebay. Got it hooked up and flashing C1-$0.00 now to read the post by statfreak to get it programmed.

<a href="http://www.youtube.com/v/FDpNvIWA-x4&rel=0" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/v/FDpNvIWA-x4&rel=0</a>

Thanks again to all that have helped
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emt232004
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« Reply #18 on: October 22, 2013, 04:01:50 PM »
played 20 credits and got no chance on the display

here are the current settings

In Test group 11:
      Opt 2:  0005 
            7:  0001
          18:  0000
        78H:  0000
         78L:  0001
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lindam1
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When you're out of Quarters, You're done.
« Reply #19 on: October 22, 2013, 04:06:08 PM »
Your problem is not so much your settings but more that the machine is not yet communicating with the Mikohn unit. It could be dead Batt. or missing or unplugged cable. several things to check before settings.
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emt232004
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« Reply #20 on: October 22, 2013, 04:13:12 PM »
Quote from: lindam1 on October 22, 2013, 04:06:08 PM
Your problem is not so much your settings but more that the machine is not yet communicating with the Mikohn unit. It could be dead Batt. or missing or unplugged cable. several things to check before settings.

Is there a trick to getting the battery out? it seems by pulling on it the tabs will come off with it...
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lindam1
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When you're out of Quarters, You're done.
« Reply #21 on: October 22, 2013, 04:37:59 PM »
The Mikohn batt. is soldered in. some have had luck breaking the tabs off the batt. and carefully soldering the new to the old tabs. (talent required). Not my recommendation.
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stormrider
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« Reply #22 on: October 22, 2013, 06:41:48 PM »
Why don't you tell us what you did first ?

psp settings ? F4+F8
Bally menu settings ?
Cham settings ? SA

Did you test the battery voltage first
you need a VL2020 battery...don't just rip it out
take the time to solder in a fresh battery.

These units are so old and chances are you still have the original battery installed
which will be at the end of it's life span anyway....

Save yourself the headache down the road replace it now..
Just my 2cents

You also posted a video showing C1 and no dollar amount
did you get that cleared up yet....where we at here ?

Tim
« Last Edit: October 22, 2013, 06:50:16 PM by stormrider » Logged
emt232004
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« Reply #23 on: October 22, 2013, 07:45:11 PM »
Quote from: stormrider on October 22, 2013, 06:41:48 PM
Why don't you tell us what you did first ?

psp settings ? F4+F8
Bally menu settings ?
Cham settings ? SA

Did you test the battery voltage first
you need a VL2020 battery...don't just rip it out
take the time to solder in a fresh battery.

These units are so old and chances are you still have the original battery installed
which will be at the end of it's life span anyway....

Save yourself the headache down the road replace it now..
Just my 2cents

You also posted a video showing C1 and no dollar amount
did you get that cleared up yet....where we at here ?

Tim

I figured the same with the battery that it would be better to replace it now while i'm working on it and thinking about it.


psp settings ? F4+F8
Cham settings ? SA
I have no idea how to see what they are or how to change them

The only settings on the machine I changed are the following
Test group 11:
      Opt 2:  0005 
            7:  0001
          18:  0000
        78H:  0000
         78L:  0001

The video with the C1 is the current status
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emt232004
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« Reply #24 on: October 22, 2013, 07:54:12 PM »
Is there a place J4 needs to be connected to the 5500?  I have J7 to J9 & J10 on the backplane of the machine
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