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| | |-+  S+ Stuck in audit/self test mode
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Author Topic: S+ Stuck in audit/self test mode  (Read 7526 times)
sblair
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« on: July 17, 2012, 03:32:09 AM »

So this is a weird one.  Got an S+ that is staying stuck in self-test or audit mode.  When I power the machine up it appears to go in whatever mode it was last in.

For grins, I tried using the SET chip just because I knew it would force a 61 and thought this might clear it.  After I enabled the DBV and replaced the game chip, I got the 61 error as expected.  When I held down the Self Test button to get the 61-1, it never came.  The 61 just went away and I got a 0 in coins played.  I closed the door and power cycled, the main displays stayed blank.  The reels homed and I got a 0 in Coins Played along with the Insert Coin light even though it wouldn't aceept a coin.

When I tried the reset key it went into the audit mode and then no matter if I opened/closed the door or power cycled it persists in the audit mode now.

Thoughts??

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rjpohl
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« Reply #1 on: July 17, 2012, 09:27:06 AM »

I believe that is normal for some game chips.  If the insert light was light you may have a bad coin compator, did you try a bill?

Bob
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Jim
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« Reply #2 on: July 17, 2012, 01:05:16 PM »

the only way to get out of the book keeping mode (audit mode)  is to cycle through the list and get back to the play game mode.

depending on which SP chip you have in the machine it may take eight turns of the key, or as much as 13 turns of the key.

after you get out of the audit mode, see where you stand.


Jim
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MIDWEST SLOTS   Selling Quality Slot Machines since 1995.  We service and repair all types of slot machines. Mills, Jennings, Bally EM, 1000/2000 series, Proslot, 6000. IGT  M, M+ ,S,  S+, S-2000,  I-Game,  Universal,  Video Poker, Sigma.
poppo
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« Reply #3 on: July 17, 2012, 01:21:15 PM »

When I power the machine up it appears to go in whatever mode it was last in.

.........

 The 61 just went away and I got a 0 in coins played.  I closed the door and power cycled, the main displays stayed blank.  The reels homed and I got a 0 in Coins Played along with the Insert Coin light even though it wouldn't aceept a coin.

This also sounds like your door optics may be bad and it's still in self test mode.

One way to test it is to use the test button on the coin optics to add a credit. Then close the door and see if the credit goes away.
« Last Edit: July 17, 2012, 02:05:13 PM by poppo » Logged
Mirage_Chaser
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« Reply #4 on: July 17, 2012, 01:58:17 PM »

When I power the machine up it appears to go in whatever mode it was last in.

.........

 The 61 just went away and I got a 0 in coins played.  I closed the door and power cycled, the main displays stayed blank.  The reels homed and I got a 0 in Coins Played along with the Insert Coin light even though it wouldn't aceept a coin.

This also sounds like your door optics may be bad and it's till in self test mode.

One wat to test it is to use the test button on the coin optics to add a credit. Then close the door and see if the credit goes away.

That's a good test but just to be clear you need to exit the menu first.
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sblair
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« Reply #5 on: July 18, 2012, 03:25:29 AM »

It's an SP611 game chip.  I'm thinking it may be the door optics.  That was the hunch I had before posting.  I got it out of the Self Test mode.  I noticed the "Insert Coin" light on one of my other slots was on even when the door was open but then it got brighter when the door was closed and it was actually ready to accept coins.  I believe it may be the same thing here.

Also, it won't take coins or bills, but when I add a service credit and close the door the service credit remains which I believe should clear when the door is closed, correct?

Thanks.
Scott
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poppo
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« Reply #6 on: July 18, 2012, 10:06:12 AM »

..but when I add a service credit and close the door the service credit remains which I believe should clear when the door is closed, correct?

Yes it should clear the credit. Are you sure you are also completely latching the door? The optics don't line up until it's fully latched.

If you have another machine, it would be easy enough to swap the optics. Also look for the obvious like a broken wire at the optic. You can bypass the optics too, but I forget which wires need to be jumperd.
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Jim
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« Reply #7 on: July 18, 2012, 03:46:23 PM »

if you suspect the optics as being defective, go to the input test menu and test them, beats guessing or typing a bunch of posts.

press the white test button until you get a 1 in the coins played window,  you should see 10_1 in winner paid window, scroll down to 13_0,  close door and push down the latch, the 0 should start to toggle to a 1 then back to 0 etc. if the optics are aligned and working.  if it does this then the optics are working!

if it doesn't, then the optics themselves could be bad, alignment maybe( if it is alignment, usually you can slowly move the latch down toward the bottom of its movement and maybe you will start to see the toggle, you won't see this if it is out of alignment beyond the bottom stop). cash can door switch not making ( you should bypass this permanently)  or wiring from the motherboard.

Hope this helps

Jim 
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MIDWEST SLOTS   Selling Quality Slot Machines since 1995.  We service and repair all types of slot machines. Mills, Jennings, Bally EM, 1000/2000 series, Proslot, 6000. IGT  M, M+ ,S,  S+, S-2000,  I-Game,  Universal,  Video Poker, Sigma.
sblair
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« Reply #8 on: July 27, 2012, 02:56:21 AM »

Hmm... well the optics are good.  I pulled them out and checked them in another machine.  I know it isn't an alignment issue, as I pulled both the optics loose and were holding them together with the door cracked open.  It's the same way I tested them in the other machine.  I did the test just by putting a service credit on the machine to see if it would clear and it never would on the machine I'm having issues with.  Other thoughts?

I checked and the bill changer door was already bypassed.  Other thoughts of where this commonly would fail?

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poppo
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« Reply #9 on: July 27, 2012, 08:39:49 AM »

As Jim mentioned, run some of the input tests to check what all of the optics and switches are doing. I recall an issue someone had with the drop-door input.
« Last Edit: July 28, 2012, 12:32:08 AM by poppo » Logged
stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #10 on: July 28, 2012, 12:30:07 AM »

Also,
If you get a chance, try checking the coin-in optics as well.  yes
I've had a piece of coin wrapper paper stuck in there blocking the optics.

Just flip up the coin mech, cup your left hand over the coin-in optics entryway and blow !!
Any paper or dust in the tiny optic holes will release and get outta there!

Remember are some what "linked" and if some other optics in the machine are malfunctioning -
you can get some strange things happening.  Scratch Head 3
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sblair
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« Reply #11 on: October 16, 2012, 04:14:32 AM »

I finally got motivated enough to tackle this b--tch again.  I also got another S+ in recently so having them side by side made it easier to track down the issue....finally.

I had previously swapped the door emitter/receivers and found they were both good. 
I swapped processor boards, it was good.
I swapped motherboards, it was good.
I swapped the coin optics as someone mentioned that, it was good.
I even swapped the molex harness behind the processor board.  It was good.

From comparing meter readings between the two machines I found the issue was with the receiver in the door.  I started busting looms and tracing out individual wires.  When I traced one of them looping into the back of the cash can I opened the door to check the wires in there again.  I had previously verifyed that the microswitch had been removed and the wires were solidly spliced together.  What I noticed this time was though that the splice was on the inside of the door itself, when I looked closely at the wires though I noticed that it looked like a crack on one wire inside the cash can right at the hinge point for the cash door.  When I pulled it a bit, the wire snapped (well really the insulation since that was all that was still holding it together).

When I re-did the splice farther inside, everything was good!

Just thought I'd pass on where the issue finally was located to give closure.

Thanks all!


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poppo
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« Reply #12 on: October 16, 2012, 08:48:44 AM »

Glad you got it working.  Clap
It always helps when you have a second machine to help troubleshoot.
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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #13 on: October 16, 2012, 01:30:53 PM »

...or spare, known-working parts.  yes
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