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Author Topic: Bally E2212 Error Code & Malfunction  (Read 7521 times)
DRebber
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« on: February 11, 2009, 01:18:10 PM »

I am working on a Bally E2212 that seems to have multiple problems or varying symptoms from the same problem.  About a year and a half ago, I unjammed a coin in the hopper and replaced the agitator because it was degraded.  I can't remember from that service call whether the LED on the hopper was a power indicator or what.

The guy called me back lately because it was showing error code (?) on the display and the coin lockout was disabled.  I could get the "codes" to change by pressing the reset on the hopper, but it would never boot up.  The hopper is not jammed and the switches for both the coin out and jam seem to be functioning properly.

I changed the Ni Cad battery, which was dead, because I kept seeing a "6" in the far right character of the display.  I even replaced both the 5101 RAMs thinking it was a memory issue, but to no avail.  While checking the power supply with the hopper removed, I could get the machine to initialize by putting pressure on the PS.  I checked the PS for cold solder, fixed a broken solder pad on the bridge rectifier and made sure all the wires on the IDC connector of the harness were inserted snugly.

Now the machine will initialize and play with the hopper removed, but will give "5.0.0.0.6" code when the hopper is replaced.  I cannot remove this code with any combination or sequence of button pushing that I have tried.

Any ideas out there?

Thanks in advance for any help.

David Rebber
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Jim
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« Reply #1 on: February 11, 2009, 01:43:21 PM »

I'm sure Barry will chime in on this one.      Is this a Military machine-----Red leds in the top box,and display over in upper right cornoc??   Optics instead of coin wire switch?  is so you first have to use reset on side of machine(key operated switch)  then use the buttons on the hopper.

See if that helps

Ps  that was a major cause of 90% of the problems with the E-series   the blue/yellow stripe wire on power supply plug would come loose and nothing would work.

That code is wierd  usually 50 means door open   I don't know about the 06   


Jim 


> The red led " on" means that the 5 amp fuse is blown on tne hopper.
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DRebber
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« Reply #2 on: February 11, 2009, 02:08:37 PM »

Jim,

Thanks for the response.

This is not a military machine.  In fact, it came form Harrods and still has their logo on the reels.  It also uses a coin switch and has the "credit / win" display on front panel by the coin entry.

According to the guy's aftermarket manual, a "6" in the far right display on power up is a memory failure code, but should be followed by another code indicating which RAM is suspected.  It does not give the second display.  It may change to "2.0.0.0.6" by repeatedly pressing the hopper reset switch and I think I even got a "6.6.0.0.6" at one point.  Still, it shows the "5 0 0 0 0" when it is initialized and ready for play with the hopper removed.

I think I may even still have problems with the power supply, but I can't access it for probing when the hopper is installed.

David
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Jim
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« Reply #3 on: February 11, 2009, 02:22:23 PM »

you should be able to check power supply wiith the hopper removed.   I think there are three voltages to look for    +5 volts,,the crossover 10 -12 volts-----and I can't remember the other without looking at the book. there should be three wire loops plus a ground where you can measure the voltages.

Jim
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« Reply #4 on: February 11, 2009, 02:27:32 PM »

Check the PS for proper voltages.
TP1 (+5) to TP3 (GND) = 5.0VDC
TP2 (ZC) to  TP3 (GND) = 7.5VDC
TP4 (+UR) to TP3 (GND) = 10VDC

With or without the hopper installed will not make a difference on the PS output.
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DRebber
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« Reply #5 on: February 11, 2009, 02:36:26 PM »

Jim,

I should have been more specific...

The PS does check okay with hopper removed, but the hopper blocks access when installed.  I only get the failure with the hopper installed.  Ergo, I guess the solution might be to install some alligator jumpers and drape them out the front of the machine....

The other problem is that I have to call this guy and make arrangements to get into his basement to work on the machine.  Therefore, I'm hoping some old salt with slots experience can say" Yeah, I know just what that code means.  You need to ...."  {LOL}

I've got over thirty years experience with coin-op amusement, but haven't worked on that many slots.  I guess I am now on the other end of the stick  - asking for advice from strangers when I don't have enough knowledge to be coherent about the failure. Scratch Head gloomy

David
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« Reply #6 on: February 11, 2009, 02:55:46 PM »

Dave, If your looking for the short answer than
6 is the RAM Memory failure code.
I would check the 5101's and be sure that the ones you installed are compatible or good.
Be sure you are using P-5101L-3's
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« Reply #7 on: February 11, 2009, 03:10:24 PM »

Dave  its unfortunate that not all slot machines were created equal    thus the questions, because bally did so many different things in that E-2000 series.  e.g. do you have a piggy back ram board on the main cpu or is yours part of the cpu board.? Since you stated that the machine does work without the hopper, it would appear that the hopper could be the problem. There are two triacs  and two diodes that short on that hopper board, but I  never got codes like that. Can you run any of the dianostic tests with the hopper in or out??

Jim  
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« Reply #8 on: February 11, 2009, 04:15:02 PM »

if your power supply is registering 5, 7.5 and 10 vdc with the hopper out - check the hopper connections - the male/female plugs - next check the edge connector on your hopper control board - make sure wires and connector are good .   make sure the fuse is 5amp  in the hopper.  If there is a problem with the hopper control board - the usual problem is a shorted MAC15 - which would blow the fuse. Also check the reset and test buttons as they do go bad and could cause a voltage issue.
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DRebber
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« Reply #9 on: March 03, 2009, 03:34:55 PM »

FOLLOW UP!!
When I got back to the machine, I probed the power supply outputs using alligator clip test leads.  When the hopper was out, the V+ would read under 10 volts and would drop almost a volt when the hopper was reconnected.  This did not affect the +5 regulated output, though.
I replaced the VJ248 bridge, the filter cap and re-soldered ALL connections (I found some non-adhered solder joints on the bridge rect.).
Game worked like a champ!!
THANKS to all who chimed in here to assist me.

David Rebber
Lubbock, TX
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« Reply #10 on: March 03, 2009, 08:44:00 PM »

Nice work Dave,
Glad to hear you got it going   applause applause applause
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« Reply #11 on: March 30, 2010, 02:11:38 PM »

i to have a machine that shows 500000 at all times even though the circuit to the i/o board is complete. this machine works fine for a few plays then tilts with no fault indication on the display. pushing the reset  restores play. any help will be appreciated. thanks
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« Reply #12 on: March 30, 2010, 03:11:52 PM »

are you sure the ribbon cable from the MPU to the IO is good?  no bad pins on the ribbon cable and it is mounted out of the way of the reel mech?
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« Reply #13 on: April 17, 2010, 01:08:56 AM »

Barry Thanks for fixing the reader board - works like a champ!  The machine worked and failed with a tilt 42 which I think is fixed. Put the board back in  and things went south.  I suspect there is another underlying problem with this machine.

1. Put my repaired reader board in.
2. Turned on machine and it it went to pieces with a 500000 not the open door code but a 5 with zeros in every digit.
3. Machine's buzzer went off.
4. Hopper fuse blew.
5. Topper lights lit up.

Replaced the hopper with another I have and that fuse held.  The first hopper's fuse had blown before and I just repaired it so it should not have blown so
quickly.  Reading the schematics the hopper comes off the transformer and not the power supply don't understand that.

started the machine with the hopper with the good fuse and examined the box:
  1. Buzzer in the upper right was sounding.
  2. The machine was totally energized:
      A. The coin diverter was glued to its electromagnet.
      B. The reader board lights were shining bright!
      C. The reels were locked and only move one symbol when I tripped the handle claw and pulled the handle, with out power they spin.
      D. pushing the reset button de-enrgizes everything, but as soon as you let up things become energized.

Befuddled where to look.
Thanks,
Jeff
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« Reply #14 on: April 17, 2010, 06:39:47 AM »

check the ribbon cable that runs from the IO to the mpu - you may have reversed it - broken some pins - crimped the cable.
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